Blade & Rubber suggestion/recommendation - starting over

[Lazer]

I would pic Neottec. It’s a small Swedish/Japanese company with a few inexpensive but excellent products. The Amagi blades with hinoki in the top layer I believe is manufactured in Japan and the others I believe in Sweden. The voodoo classic doesn’t have a hinoki top and it’s probably made in the same factory as the Yasaka blades (Tranås Sweden)….

Cheers
L-zr

 

[Haraold]

take a look at the Nittaku Factive,great starting rubber,pair it with probably a 5 plywood.
I recommend the Donic Waldner 2016 or PPP.

 

[StreamOfWater]

A long read , but please do so as I need help, suggestion and recommendation.

Hi. I played table tennis about 12-13yrs ago, but it was more of after hours past time - so very limited play.
I was intrigued to play since, now I'm pushing 40 still have very limited time to play, no main club I attend to ~ needless to say I am still a beginner, maybe intermediate. I understand the spin, serve, receive but not very good in reading serve spins yet - I sometimes give a chance ball.
My forehand is more of placement return and spin oriented, more on topspin less power. My BH is more of chop push/block but before stopping again I have good placement an chopblocks to it, and loop are better than my FH. Footwork well that needs some work as well. more so now that age and weight is a factor.

I had some bad decisions in buying blades and rubbers then sold them. I had some bad experience in the local scene hence I stopped. Last I played was start of Q4 last year 2024. Since then I have not played due to some personal difficulties. Prior to this I have sold every last rubber and blade I had last December and January.

With things better now I will be starting again in May.

I would need help, suggestion and recommendation - where should I start? Blade 5ply or 7ply or inner carbon for may age maybe. And rubbers of course. As of the sport and will be returning, I only have $60 for blade to spare - $60 in my country equivalent. So I will be listening in to your recommendations.

I am looking for blade that are not that heavy around 86g-90g (at the most if allwood). For rubbers same, something I can learn, something for my age, with and play competitively in local spots but also durable.

Appreciate your kind help.

Get whatever you like or which is trusted/has many positives reviews. No need to overcomplicate it. It's you and your technique that makes the difference. You'll never know what works for you until you have some sort of starting point and really spend time with your equipment, I'd say couple of years even

 

[UpHill_Battle]

I appreciate all the inputs, budget with blade and rubbers, availability here of item and weight, narrowed it down to this..

• Neottec voodoo classic
• Donic Persson Seven
• Yasaka sweden extra
• Butterfly Korbel japan

I reckon the above is good list. I'll see what will be available this weekend going in to the local shops.

thanks all

 

[Larshos]

I would add Sanwei Fextra 5. Cheap and good.

 

[UpHill_Battle]

May I know some opinion...the shop did not have all the options as of moment. What they have and offered,

• Donic Persson Seven - 84g (but I dont see much review on this)
• Butterfly Korbel japan - soon to arrive
• Yasaka Extra Offensive - available already 94g

is the donic or yasaka one good for returning player?

 

[StreamOfWater]

May I know some opinion...the shop did not have all the options as of moment. What they have and offered,

• Donic Persson Seven - 84g (but I dont see much review on this)
• Butterfly Korbel japan - soon to arrive
• Yasaka Extra Offensive - available already 94g

is the donic or yasaka one good for returning player?

Yes, if you are talking about Ma Lin (Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive) one, then it's a great blade that has great feeling and enough power for you to execute all of your shots, being close or far away from the table. Ultimately it's you who makes the final difference, make sure to work on your technique. Although not sure what kind of "Yasaka Extra Offensive" weights 94g, usually ranges between 85g-90g. It's either mistake on your side, or it's a rare heavy piece, or you are talking about a different blade. It's on a heavier side which is not that preferable - if you're pushing 40, then you have more than enough power to generate on your own. It's fairly easy to get a fast setup like that, which will also be influenced by rubbers you'll choose... It could promote incredibly passive play because you'll find yourself having hard time controlling your racket, which isn't productive nor reliable

 

[Der_Echte]

For your budget, Donic Persson Powerplay is a great 7-ply all wood with good speed and very good feeling too. It is an under-rated blade.

If you want inner carbon, I would recommend Tibhar Fortino Performance. It is a great blade as well! The regular price of $90 is over your budget but if you can put in a $300 order by combining your order with some stuff that your club mates want, then 30% off will bring the cost down to $60.

I got TWO Donic PPP blades from tabletennis11 that were 95 and 96 grams and an ABOSULTE GEM each one.

Weight distribution matters more and a heavier blade blocks way better.

I built a bat for a UC Davis club player for $70ish USD, new PPP blade Fl handle, new Aurus 48 FH, used (but only a few hrs) Aurus soft. President tried that blade and wanted to take it away with him.

Complete bat with the setup JJ Ng advocates and in my sig costs less than a sheet of BTY Diginiski.

 

[Der_Echte]

The weight distro on the 40 plus PPP blades I have bought and tried are more than good... do not worry over absolute weight, PPP will do you well... and so can another few hundred of other setups.

 

[mightymouse]

@Der_Echte

Which powerplay do you normally recommend: normal, v1 or v2?

I can't really compare mine, as my v1 (FL) is very sweet as it is >25 years old. My normal one (FL) is >10 years old. Both are ~83 grams and I think they lack power, but with very good feeling.

My 2 new normal PP (ST) is only ~ 2 years old, 88 and 90 grams, so I think that they are quite powerful, but they feel different. Feeling wise, the old woods are much better.

 

[mightymouse]

May I know some opinion...the shop did not have all the options as of moment. What they have and offered,

• Donic Persson Seven - 84g (but I dont see much review on this)
• Butterfly Korbel japan - soon to arrive
• Yasaka Extra Offensive - available already 94g

is the donic or yasaka one good for returning player?

Korbel Japan is excellent. I have used it for years and it is a medium of medium. You can do everything well with it, but nothing is extraordinary. It is geared towards looping blade though (especially the old black butterfly tag), but the newer one (silver tag) is a bit stiffer.

Yasaka Extra Offensive is stiffer and crisper in feeling. For variety of strokes, Korbel Japan is better. YEO can be called Korbel on steroid, but I think it is more suitable for Chinese style of play (like Ma Lin).

I have no experience with Persson Seven, but if it is a clipper clone with only 6.3-6.4 mm in thickness, I think it is more like Avalox P700.

Don't worry about Donic or Yasaka, they produce good quality blades (in general). It doesn't have to be Butterfly. Even for Korbel Japan, you can get more or less the same characteristics with Neottec Voodo Classic for cheaper.

 

[Tyce]

If you can't decide based on specifications, you can always just get what looks good, or feels good in the hand. A good first impression goes a long way in believing in your equipment.

 

[UpHill_Battle]

m

If you can't decide based on specifications, you can always just get what looks good, or feels good in the hand. A good first impression goes a long way in believing in your equipment.

might have to go back and feel the right FL handle for me then - based on the list and availability.

 

[impluse101]

from your choices, the korbel japan, voodoo classic are ok, tho the last voodoo classic I tried was so light only 79g
persson seven I have this blade but have not tested it yet.

if you're up for korbel japan maybe ask for tibhar stratus powerwood if available.

 

[Der_Echte]

@Der_Echte

Which powerplay do you normally recommend: normal, v1 or v2?

I can't really compare mine, as my v1 (FL) is very sweet as it is >25 years old. My normal one (FL) is >10 years old. Both are ~83 grams and I think they lack power, but with very good feeling.

My 2 new normal PP (ST) is only ~ 2 years old, 88 and 90 grams, so I think that they are quite powerful, but they feel different. Feeling wise, the old woods are much better.

I recommend ANY of them. Play well with old or new, light or heavy, solid, v1 or v2 senso handles.

I prefer 90+ grams, but I also play fine with low 80s ST handle ones. The wood on the handle piece is very grippy and easy to whip the bat even if hands are wet with sweat.

The V2 is marketed mas a slightly slower blade... but to me in real life I can hit very hard, if not harder than my V1s.

I would agree the 90+ PPP blades I have been getting from tabletennis11 are more powerful, but the low 80s grams ones you can still hit very hard and still land it.

It is almost like TT11 has been reading the forum, or checking up on me for buying over 30 of them over the last couple years running them out of stock several times. They seem to know I really like the heavy ones and have been giving it to me real heavy the last few shipments.

That is very well by me, heavy wood is good.

 

[UpHill_Battle]

Hi folks.

Is 729 Battle 2 Silver 40deg too hard for FH?
Is Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 39deg too hard for BH?

I am asking as there is a "buddy" at a place where I watch match-plays that can sell them for real cheap.

I have yet to buy blade as my options Yasaka Sweden Extra and Neottec Voodoo Classic are out of stock in the local TT store. Other options have no weight available.

 

[UpHill_Battle]

Hi folks.

Is 729 Battle 2 Silver 40deg too hard for FH?
Is Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 39deg too hard for BH?

I am asking as there is a "buddy" at a place where I watch match-plays that can sell them for real cheap.

I have yet to buy blade as my options Yasaka Sweden Extra and Neottec Voodoo Classic are out of stock in the local TT store. Other options have no weight available.

Hi folks.

doing a re-up to be noticed.

Is 729 Battle 2 Silver 40deg too hard for FH?
Is Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 39deg too hard for BH?
or vice versa Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 40deg FH & BH 729 Battle 2 Silver 39deg?

 

[Lazer]

Hi folks.

doing a re-up to be noticed.

Is 729 Battle 2 Silver 40deg too hard for FH?
Is Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 39deg too hard for BH?
or vice versa Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 40deg FH & BH 729 Battle 2 Silver 39deg?

A silly question...
It depends on the player...

Cheers
L-zr

 

[boretennis]

so many good suggestions in this thread, at your current level almost any combination is fine. just get the korbel or the persson, those will serve you some years. start with some cheaper rubbers and just get going. if you advance you can come back to this thread in half a year and discuss upgrading the rubbers.

 

[UpHill_Battle]

so many good suggestions in this thread, at your current level almost any combination is fine. just get the korbel or the persson, those will serve you some years. start with some cheaper rubbers and just get going. if you advance you can come back to this thread in half a year and discuss upgrading the rubbers.

with my hiatus, my age and mobility, limited time of play -- any of blade and cheaper rubber is fine.

The blade I am eyeing is yasaka sweden extra or the the neottec voodoo classic.
The rubbers I am not sure hence my inquiry. So a 729 Battle 2 Silver 40deg and Yinhe Jupiter 3 Asia 39deg is fine to start with? Am I getting this correctly