So you play with 3 layers of booster on your own H3N blue sponge but recommend others not to boost? Makes sense
Boosted Hurricane 3 Neo OS or BS?
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Because I'm an EJ, I like to try different stuff. I can tell you there is not a huge difference between BS and OS.
Also I like to do my own boosting therefore I select the old H3 (not H3Neo). This way I have full control myselff.
As You can see above the difference between H3 and H3Neo, is the pre boosting and glue layer. That H3 neo should be made for boosting and H3 for speed gluing is a total hoax...
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L-zr
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my wife is better married than me.
Buddy, can you now please shut up? Okay? You suck.
Where did I recommend anyone not to boost? And if you quote, don't pull it out of the context.
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It is pretty much the same sponge, but one is treated. To say it was made for boosting idk, but every pro use NEO and boost it. I guess it works better. From my experience, the boosting on NEO sponge is more homogeneous. Whereas on the regular, it has a lot more variation. But the difference is minimal.
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To make 2 different sponges that are almost identical makes zero economical sense...
This is the main reason I believe that the only difference is how its treated before being packaged (and maybe the selection preocess)
Some people actually claims that old H3 is made for speed gluing...
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L-zr
I want to see you play with H3N BS 42 degree with no booster, when you come back and realize it's completely unplayable you can humble yourself, thanks Mr. Harasser
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Like I said, same sponge, but neo is treated. Juste the NEO goes to another stop in the manufacturing process the regular does not.
Old H3 was released in 2000, at a time where the speed glue was commonly used. So they developped it with the compatibilty of Speed glue. The organic glue expanded the pores of the sponge to improve elasticity. But that process reduced significantly the life of the rubber. And according to them, NEO improve strength and durability of the sponge. So, I now understand why pro's use NEO version. It handles the boost much better.
That is explained by DHS themselves in their handbook.
Handbook of DHS T.T. Products(in Chinese language).pdf
drive.google.com
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Is there any english version?Like I said, same sponge, but neo is treated. Juste the NEO goes to another stop in the manufacturing process the regular does not.
Old H3 was released in 2000, at a time where the speed glue was commonly used. So they developped it with the compatibilty of Speed glue. The organic glue expanded the pores of the sponge to improve elasticity. But that process reduced significantly the life of the rubber. And according to them, NEO improve strength and durability of the sponge. So, I now understand why pro's use NEO version. It handles the boost much better.
That is explained by DHS themselves in their handbook.
Handbook of DHS T.T. Products(in Chinese language).pdf
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I would recommend that if someone is getting to you, you find a better way to handle it. You can always report and if you don't want to do that, let it go.
Just picked up my BS H3N 38 , planning to use on forehand. Its my 2nd chinese rubber, but not sure how to boost that one. Currently been playing for a month with OS provincial 39 on the forehand (as per the guide released here couple months ago) and i am loving it, but really want to test the BS. I boosted the OS with only 1 layer of Haifu Seamoon. Keep reading blue needs more boosting, but it's only 38 degrees.. don't want it to become mushy.. so any recommendations?
Oh and btw.. tried OS 37 boosted once on BH and felty too mushy, tried H8-80 also boosted once and loved it.
Oh and btw.. tried OS 37 boosted once on BH and felty too mushy, tried H8-80 also boosted once and loved it.
Have never tried BS 38, but I do feel like it’s probably easily overboosted, so I would just do a thin layer.
I would make sure to also remove the protective film before boosting, especially on lower hardness, to allow it to stretch the topsheet more and introduce more tension to make it feel harder.
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Eh, you can never un-boost, so just try a single layer first. IMO Blue doesn't need more boosting but it does take more time breaking in. The solid OS doesn't change much at all in comparison and can be played straight after boosting - maybe taking an hour or so to come alive tops. BS took me multiple sessions with the same boost and same hardness - I'd guess 8-10 hours to come to life.
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I thought so too with BS, it took some hours before it felt comfortable.
I found out though that when I found the right way (for me) of boosting it, it played wonderful from the get-go so I will share it: three moderate layers of booster separated by 12 hours each, around 30 hours of wait from the last one to the gluing process, in which it is still a bit curled. I play 40 - 41 degrees.
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I boosted BS H3N 38 with 2 layers because I used it on my backhand and it was good, but maybe just try using 1 layer for now if you're using it on forehand side
Thank you everyone. Will do one layer only for now. Will keep in mind it needs more breaking in time too, Orange felt good right away, lets see how it is with the blue!
Oh about boosting methods.. saw Zhang Jike's video of boosting. What got me interested is he says he does 2 or 3 layers of booster on sponge, then 2 layers of glue, then another layers of boost? What's up with that? Anyone does that? I usually always put the booster first , 2 layers of glue and put it on the blade.
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