China stickiness rubber

If I REALLY want to keep the H3 tacky, (I never do though), I use as RicharD suggests a plastic cover that self-adheres with surface tension. I wipe down rubber with a combo of lemon juice and olive oil first. RicharD correctly states that oxidation is a killer of topsheet elasticity and that maintenance crazy amatures (listen up Korea) go WAY overboard in this respect. Olive oil rejuvenates that and the time with the plastic cover helps. One good wipe down with olive oil mix and an overnight stay under a protective sheets bring back 120% of H3's tackiness. Yes, I mean that makes it even tackier than from factory. However, besides just making a show of having to vigorously shake the bat to dislodge the ball stuck to tacky topsheet to wow the amature crowd, I really dislike that level of tackiness. Simply half tacky is plenty tacky for me. The trick to making extreme spin on serves when you need it is wrist speed at impact, that is all timing and proper effective movement.

So would lemon juice and olive oil combo work on tensor rubbers. (make em more elastic etc.)
 
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My sweat is perfect. It keeps non-tacky rubbers like XP 2008 just grippy and it keeps tacky rubbers like H3 only semi-tacky, just like I like it.

If I ever come across DE's paddle, I'll have to remind my self not to lick it now.

Why not? I believe there are some people out there that would even pay for that.
Hahaha
Again: Ewwwwwww

I have a 3 year old h3 neo which is still tacky AF... how are you guys managing to remove the tackiness?

Hahaha
[Emoji2]
Same here. My Nittaku/DHS H3 will also turn 3y.o. in July and i can't see the tack decrease yet.
But i have to admit i haven't played with it for a while now. Just resting on the shelf with protection sheets on.

So would lemon juice and olive oil combo work on tensor rubbers. (make em more elastic etc.)

Not sure 'bout the lemon juice but oil will definitely work for a short while. But don't use more than a few drops or else your topsheet might mush up. And most likely it won't work more than a few times and then after that your rubber is deader than dead.
 
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Well, i couldn't resist my curiousity and ordered ten days ago some "Blütenkirsche" rubber cleaner for tacky rubbers from ttnpp.com since i also wanted to get some of those new DHS D40+ balls.
Today i've picked up the parcel from the post office. It really got delivered fast, it was there on Thursday already but i missed their opening times due to work.
Really looking forward to try out the cleaner and gonna try it on my old National H3NEO​ to see if it does what it says it will do
Besides thank you to Mr. Wong from ttnpp. I've ordered three six packs of the D40+ but received 2 ten packs, so they've given me two balls extra for free!!
Thanks again!
Amazing service.
IMG_20170415_114434.jpg
IMG_20170415_114452.jpg
 
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Suga D,

Let us know is the rubber cleaner good?

Thanks


Well, i couldn't resist my curiousity and ordered ten days ago some "Blütenkirsche" rubber cleaner for tacky rubbers from ttnpp.com since i also wanted to get some of those new DHS D40+ balls.
Today i've picked up the parcel from the post office. It really got delivered fast, it was there on Thursday already but i missed their opening times due to work.
Really looking forward to try out the cleaner and gonna try it on my old National H3NEO​ to see if it does what it says it will do
Besides thank you to Mr. Wong from ttnpp. I've ordered three six packs of the D40+ but received 2 ten packs, so they've given me two balls extra for free!!
Thanks again!
Amazing service.
View attachment 12782
View attachment 12783
 
I actually apply vegetable oil to my top sheet every 2 weeks following Carl's advice. I clean my rubber with water and then dry with a sponge 1-2 times during practice matches to remove dust. and then to restore the tackiness clean the rubber with water and sponge and then pour 1/2 tsp of oil onto the top sheet and spread it out evenly with a finger. Then i gently lay a paper towel over to soak up any excess so that there is a very very light coating of oil. Let it soak in +5-15 min), press the trusty plastic protector on and wait till the next day. Should be able to pick up balls with sufficient tack. If the oil is on too thick, the top sheet will bubble and damage. I find this to be particularly the case at the base where the logo/lettering is wherein oil can get caught in the grooves and do damage. Be careful and never over zealous and you should be fine! Rebuying tacky rubbers is obviously better but expensive! I use rapeseed oil but i imagine more refined oils like baby oil may be better. Although, baby oil will have scents and added moisturisers which may be more harmful. It's also useful to note that after oiling the longer you wait the better the effect. You should at least wait 8 hours but longer is better. Having 2+ rubbers on rotation is not a bad idea. I've also heard that this is not a great idea for non tacky rubbers but cannot confirm with my own experience. As i understand​ this restores tackiness, not grip, so is useless for my completely non-tacky bh rubber.
 
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My sweat is perfect. It keeps non-tacky rubbers like XP 2008 just grippy and it keeps tacky rubbers like H3 only semi-tacky, just like I like it.
hehe semi-tacky. I want all the tack! I had a massive problem at the start with sweat running from my fingers into my bh (pH problems). Sweat bands are amazing!
 
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Suga D,

Let us know is the rubber cleaner good?

Thanks

I certainly will. Still a bit early now to say anything. I've put some on my old national H3NEO and some on a newer provincial H3NEO and left another H3Neo untouched to be able to have a comparison.
I'll let you know about the results in a couple of days.
Actually i don't really expect to increase the tack on the almost dead H3N, but what i'm rather hoping for is to be making the tack of the newer H3N last longer. So for this it will take some time to have a proper result.
But whatever the outcome, i'll keep you posted. Especially if i might be disappointed of the results.

If i may ask: what does Ot Ot stand for? Outta town, over time, off topic? Or something completely else?
 
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I actually apply vegetable oil to my top sheet every 2 weeks following Carl's advice. I clean my rubber with water and then dry with a sponge 1-2 times during practice matches to remove dust. and then to restore the tackiness clean the rubber with water and sponge and then pour 1/2 tsp of oil onto the top sheet and spread it out evenly with a finger. Then i gently lay a paper towel over to soak up any excess so that there is a very very light coating of oil. Let it soak in +5-15 min), press the trusty plastic protector on and wait till the next day. Should be able to pick up balls with sufficient tack. If the oil is on too thick, the top sheet will bubble and damage. I find this to be particularly the case at the base where the logo/lettering is wherein oil can get caught in the grooves and do damage. Be careful and never over zealous and you should be fine! Rebuying tacky rubbers is obviously better but expensive! I use rapeseed oil but i imagine more refined oils like baby oil may be better. Although, baby oil will have scents and added moisturisers which may be more harmful. It's also useful to note that after oiling the longer you wait the better the effect. You should at least wait 8 hours but longer is better. Having 2+ rubbers on rotation is not a bad idea. I've also heard that this is not a great idea for non tacky rubbers but cannot confirm with my own experience. As i understand​ this restores tackiness, not grip, so is useless for my completely non-tacky bh rubber.

I think either you or me must have misunderstood something carl wrote.
Afaik oiling a brandnew rubber won't do you much of a favor since it most likely rather will shorten the life of your rubber.
This procedure is mostly meant for old and close to dead rubbers, 'cause what the oil does is changing up the alignment of the polymers of your rubber. So most likely this will work for a short period of time on a nearly dead rubber, but those time periods get shorter and shorter the more often you repeat them.
Maybe when Carl reads this he can chime in and shine some light on this.
And actually this method also works for non-tacky rubbers too, since it mostly restores the grip and not so much the tack. So that is a slight difference.
It has worked on my old Bluefire M2, on an old T05 and also on an old Rasant Grip too
[Emoji6]
 
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It definitely restores tackiness, as before oiling you cannot pick up the ball, and afterwards you can! No need to do it on brand new rubbers, just when it's needed. IMO, if the ball bounces dead quickly on the rubber, and it becomes dirty after 15 minutes play, you probably don't need to oil it. Tack is most important for the short game and service imo, although it obviously adds spin on offensive shots. Only when the rubber has lost sufficient tack to decrease your 'feel' on the ball does it become a problem for looping, and usually there is always enough grip to compensate. Interesting that it works on euro style rubbers though, not that i would as my non tacky bh is so cheap and resilient. But with this method, a rubber usually lasts me 6 months, primarily because by then I've reboosted it too many times. This at least keeps the top sheet very viable. I play 4-5 times a week.
 
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It definitely restores tackiness, as before oiling you cannot pick up the ball, and afterwards you can! No need to do it on brand new rubbers, just when it's needed. IMO, if the ball bounces dead quickly on the rubber, and it becomes dirty after 15 minutes play, you probably don't need to oil it. Tack is most important for the short game and service imo, although it obviously adds spin on offensive shots. Only when the rubber has lost sufficient tack to decrease your 'feel' on the ball does it become a problem for looping, and usually there is always enough grip to compensate. Interesting that it works on euro style rubbers though, not that i would as my non tacky bh is so cheap and resilient. But with this method, a rubber usually lasts me 6 months, primarily because by then I've reboosted it too many times. This at least keeps the top sheet very viable. I play 4-5 times a week.

Ah i see. I thought you do this treatment to a brandnew rubber too.
But as long as it works. Still i'm amazed by how often you do this without the rubber degrading mentionable.
My Revolution 3 rejuvenator which also contains oil shouldn't be used as often as that, 'cause it also softens the rubber's topsheet too much.

One of my friends told me about some stuff called Gecko cleaner. He said that stuff can even turn non-tacky rubbers into tacky ones. But i haven't seen it in any TT-shop yet, only on eBay.
$_3.JPG
 
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Hmmm the softening does sound very plausible. Given that the sponge is so hard on hurricane/skyline, a bit of softening in the top sheet doesn't sound like too much of a bad thing. Dhs stuff seems pretty tough. Have an h3 which is a year old and still playable albeit it's not great... Gecko cleaner looks pretty lit though. My completely non tacky bh could do with some tack for rpb serves. Atm Ive been considering h 3-50. Look forward to hearing about blutenkirsche though, and gecko.
 
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Olive oil works great with Chinese tacky rubbers (999, DHS) but it does not work with a tack euro rubber like rising dragon. Just a FYI. I had high hopes that it would since rising dragon is a pretty good rubber when tacky, and for me not that good when tackiness has faded.


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I say it every year on the forums... clean a Chinese rubber any which way, MOISTEN the rubber and apply plastic protective cover, leave overnight, then after a day or two that sucka is gunna be much much much moar tacky.

i use water to wipe off the rubber with my palm.

and cover with plastic sheet cover...next day will be tacky...for a 2hrs game.
 
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