Discontinuation of Darker Speed 90

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Now all I need is to find rubbers to put on it. I've talked to a distant cousin in sarawak tt team and he mentioned that there isn't much way to sustain as one side only penhold. I'm thinking Tacky on both sides and forehand rubber at 40 degrees. Backhand 37-38.
Budget at most 40SGD per rubber. I'm thinking fastarc g-1 forehand and h3 on backhand. What do you suggest?

You say tacky both sides, but Fastarc G1 is not tacky. If you are using the DHS scale of harness then G1 would be closer to 38, not 40. I don't even know if they make 38 degree Hurricanes anymore but the H3Neo 37 I tried felt softer and mushier than G1. Do you have any experience at all playing an attacking rpb style?
 
You say tacky both sides, but Fastarc G1 is not tacky. If you are using the DHS scale of harness then G1 would be closer to 38, not 40. I don't even know if they make 38 degree Hurricanes anymore but the H3Neo 37 I tried felt softer and mushier than G1. Do you have any experience at all playing an attacking rpb style?
I may have miscommunicated that, and I didn't do much research. But if so, is g1 gonna be a softer rubber than my current volant 1 according to the scale you use? As for the backhand, I'm actually not sure for choosing rubbers for that cause I've never played rpb in my games besides attempting with a friend's cpen. Do you suggest a harder rubber for the backhand then. In fact, should I even put h3 on the backhand. I've playing rpb for some time but not with inverted rubber and topspin. I've tried a few times with cpen and so I'll try to learn with it.
 
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Now all I need is to find rubbers to put on it. I've talked to a distant cousin in sarawak tt team and he mentioned that there isn't much way to sustain as one side only penhold. I'm thinking Tacky on both sides and forehand rubber at 40 degrees. Backhand 37-38.
Budget at most 40SGD per rubber. I'm thinking fastarc g-1 forehand and h3 on backhand. What do you suggest?
You are most likely a hobby player and not going to depend your dinner by playing TT, so screw it and buy whatever makes you happy!

- advise from a guy who ignored all convention and got himself a bespoke 10.5mm monster thick shakehand blade with T05 Hard on FH.

p/s: Happy EJ'ing!
 
You are most likely a hobby player and not going to depend your dinner by playing TT, so screw it and buy whatever makes you happy!

- advise from a guy who ignored all convention and got himself a bespoke 10.5mm monster thick shakehand blade with T05 Hard on FH.

p/s: Happy EJ'ing!
Hahaha
 
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I may have miscommunicated that, and I didn't do much research. But if so, is g1 gonna be a softer rubber than my current volant 1 according to the scale you use? As for the backhand, I'm actually not sure for choosing rubbers for that cause I've never played rpb in my games besides attempting with a friend's cpen. Do you suggest a harder rubber for the backhand then. In fact, should I even put h3 on the backhand. I've playing rpb for some time but not with inverted rubber and topspin. I've tried a few times with cpen and so I'll try to learn with it.
I wouldn’t put H3 on BH. If you haven’t played RPB before I would start with an easier thin rubber. Something like Neottec katana < 2mm…

Cheers
L-zr
 
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I may have miscommunicated that, and I didn't do much research. But if so, is g1 gonna be a softer rubber than my current volant 1 according to the scale you use? As for the backhand, I'm actually not sure for choosing rubbers for that cause I've never played rpb in my games besides attempting with a friend's cpen. Do you suggest a harder rubber for the backhand then. In fact, should I even put h3 on the backhand. I've playing rpb for some time but not with inverted rubber and topspin. I've tried a few times with cpen and so I'll try to learn with it.

I don't know what hardness scale DoubleFish uses but if its similar to the one used by DHS, then G1 is softer.

You want something soft and light for bh to start out with, something easy to use- like KTL Rapid Speed, RITC Focus 3 Snipe, Palio AK47 Blue.
 
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I've been playing with all-hinoki blades since 1976. (Yes, I'm old.) As I've gotten into my 60s, I've had to make changes to my game and adopt a more controlled looping game, necessitating moving from a very fast (offensive +) Yasaka Super Leo blade (3-ply, 8.3 mm thick) to a slower Darker 7P-2A (7-ply, 6.5 mm thick).

Given the shortage of high-quality kiso hinoki rackets these days, it bothers me to no end that my old Yasaka now sits unused in a drawer. Would anyone be interested in purchasing this with the stipulation that it actually be used. I'm willing to part with it for $75. It's, as I've said, used — in good condition, but with some edge dings and the like. I can post photos of there's legitimate interest.

If you're based in New York, I can meet you at a PingPod location so you can hit with it to determine whether this blade is for you. Let me know if there's interest.
 
I've been playing with all-hinoki blades since 1976. (Yes, I'm old.) As I've gotten into my 60s, I've had to make changes to my game and adopt a more controlled looping game, necessitating moving from a very fast (offensive +) Yasaka Super Leo blade (3-ply, 8.3 mm thick) to a slower Darker 7P-2A (7-ply, 6.5 mm thick).

Given the shortage of high-quality kiso hinoki rackets these days, it bothers me to no end that my old Yasaka now sits unused in a drawer. Would anyone be interested in purchasing this with the stipulation that it actually be used. I'm willing to part with it for $75. It's, as I've said, used — in good condition, but with some edge dings and the like. I can post photos of there's legitimate interest.

If you're based in New York, I can meet you at a PingPod location so you can hit with it to determine whether this blade is for you. Let me know if there's interest.
Sorry for replying so late. Nice to hear about your experiences using hi oki blades. Would you mind to share to us more about it and your playstyle? What are the changes between table tennid of the 80s and now?
 
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Sorry for replying so late. Nice to hear about your experiences using hi oki blades. Would you mind to share to us more about it and your playstyle? What are the changes between table tennid of the 80s and now?
Back in the '70s and '80s, I think we used loops more sparingly, either to attack against chop or to force a high return that could be killed — either flat killed or with only moderate topspin to stabilize the shot. Back in those days, too, everybody playing at a competitive level in the U.S. used only one of two rubbers, Mark V or Sriver. (Tackiness came out later.) And people generally used the same rubber of both sides of their blades, just perhaps a slightly thinner sponge on the backhand.

I emulated Dan Seemiller, who was the U.S.'s top player during that era, and instead of hitting a traditional shake backhand, I turn my wrist over on balls his to my backhand side so that I'm essentially hitting with the forehand rubber even on balls hit to my backhand. It sounds awkward, but Americans who play baseball are accustomed to this since it's virtually the same way they catch a baseball hit to their backhand side. At that time, I played with Mark V on one side of my racket and anti-spin (originally a rubber made by Butterfly called Sriver Killer) and would twiddle my racket. In those days, there was no requirement that your backhand and forehand rubbers be different colors, so it was hard for my opponents to determine which rubber I had hit the ball with. (Looking back at it, it was terribly unfair to people who played against me. The two-color rule was a good development.)

Today, rubbers are spinnier, and everybody, including me, tries to topspin nearly everything. Rallies are longer because the arched trajectories of topspin shots create a much greater margin for error. My game has changed in the intervening years in other ways too. I now use long pips, not anti-spin rubber, on the alternate side of my racket. I also no longer do a full twiddle, but simply hit a shake backhand when I want to chop-block or hit a long-pip punch shot. The transition from the Seemiller grip to a shake grip on the backhand is very fast — faster than a full twiddle — enabling me to make a very-last-moment decision about whether I'm hitting with my sticky forehand rubber or my pips.

I think the game today is better and infinitely more interesting to watch. The move from the 38mm ball to the 40mm ball, and then to the slightly larger 40+ plastic ball have also helped despite everyone's initial griping, including mine.
 
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I've been playing with all-hinoki blades since 1976. (Yes, I'm old.) As I've gotten into my 60s, I've had to make changes to my game and adopt a more controlled looping game, necessitating moving from a very fast (offensive +) Yasaka Super Leo blade (3-ply, 8.3 mm thick) to a slower Darker 7P-2A (7-ply, 6.5 mm thick).

Given the shortage of high-quality kiso hinoki rackets these days, it bothers me to no end that my old Yasaka now sits unused in a drawer. Would anyone be interested in purchasing this with the stipulation that it actually be used. I'm willing to part with it for $75. It's, as I've said, used — in good condition, but with some edge dings and the like. I can post photos of there's legitimate interest.

If you're based in New York, I can meet you at a PingPod location so you can hit with it to determine whether this blade is for you. Let me know if there's interest.
I have sent you a Personal Message @East Side Rob
 
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