Heavy but flexible blade.

[FrancoDiaz]

Hello everyone, Im looking for some ideas on a carbon. blade that is heavy but not very stiff. Im around 6'2 (1.9M) and 230lb (105 kg) in good physical shape. I find it very comfortable to play with heavier blades but most of them are to reactive or are innerforce style blades. Any recomendation for an ouer carbon blade that is heavy (gives good speed) but still flexible (gives good control/dwell and spin) ? or should i just buy a heavy inner carbon blade and get used to it.

 

[Shifu]

Maybe Freitas ALC. It‘s a bit softer than your typical outer ALC blade because it uses limba instead of koto for the outer layer.

 

[ProgramCrazy]

Stiga Dynasty Carbon might be an option. Those blades are heavy for whatever reason. You can easily pick up a >90 gram blade

 

[WingTT]

Most other folks are looking for lighter setup due to how the latest rubbers are mostly hard and heavy. If you want heavy just get an blade with a larger head and use a rubber like the Nittaku Hurricane 3 Turbo Orange or some other hard rubber. There is also variation in blade weight even in the same model so just ask for the heaviest one of the one you want from your retailer.

 

[LILYPAD 乒乓]

...ideas on a carbon. blade that is heavy but not very stiff.... Any recommendation for an outer carbon blade that is heavy (gives good speed) but still flexible (gives good control/dwell and spin) ? or should I just buy a heavy inner carbon blade and get used to it.

I started making my own blades about a year ago, and the problem that I see with Outer-C blades being flexible and heavy, would be that it would severely change the angle of you racket to a super closed position in order to loop incoming topspin successfully back on the table (and over the net). I love heavy blades/rackets for my personal play, and the racket I made and use fits your exact description, though it is an Inner ALC blade (103.9g & 5.9mm; 203.7g w/ double D09c).

I feel that the outer carbon, on this hypothetical blade, would be too reactive to have the control/dwell you're describing; unless Aspen, Spruce, or other low Janka/MOE woods were used as the top veneer. The top veneer of this type would need to be accompanied with a >3.1mm Ayous core to get the weight and greater "dwell" described (especially close to the table). I have only made one Outer-ALC blade, and it was a Viscaria clone that played fast, direct, and accurate, but need perfect timing and technique for every stroke. The blade you're searching for, if you've not found it, definitely requires some decent thought, and unique construction to achieve which is likely why its difficult to find.

Your weight preference would be the next big consideration. I can use blades from +90g decently, but get the full use of my style/technique when the blade gets around 100g with a 151x157mm head (at 105g, I would consider the blade too heavy). The larger the head, the more flex the blade "should" have, unless your seeking out a chopping style blade. Hope that helps at least.

Feel free to browse my 30+ blade experiments I've created so far on my Instagram link below:

https://www.instagram.com/lilypad_pingpong/

 

[TensorBackhand]

I started making my own blades about a year ago, and the problem that I see with Outer-C blades being flexible and heavy, would be that it would severely change the angle of you racket to a super closed position in order to loop incoming topspin successfully back on the table (and over the net). I love heavy blades/rackets for my personal play, and the racket I made and use fits your exact description, though it is an Inner ALC blade (103.9g & 5.9mm; 203.7g w/ double D09c).

I feel that the outer carbon, on this hypothetical blade, would be too reactive to have the control/dwell you're describing; unless Aspen, Spruce, or other low Janka/MOE woods were used as the top veneer. The top veneer of this type would need to be accompanied with a >3.1mm Ayous core to get the weight and greater "dwell" described (especially close to the table). I have only made one Outer-ALC blade, and it was a Viscaria clone that played fast, direct, and accurate, but need perfect timing and technique for every stroke. The blade you're searching for, if you've not found it, definitely requires some decent thought, and unique construction to achieve which is likely why its difficult to find.

Your weight preference would be the next big consideration. I can use blades from +90g decently, but get the full use of my style/technique when the blade gets around 100g with a 151x157mm head (at 105g, I would consider the blade too heavy). The larger the head, the more flex the blade "should" have, unless your seeking out a chopping style blade. Hope that helps at least.

Feel free to browse my 30+ blade experiments I've created so far on my Instagram link below:

https://www.instagram.com/lilypad_pingpong/

Cool. Did you get any feedback from strong players about how your blades play?

 

[LILYPAD 乒乓]

Cool. Did you get any feedback from strong players about how your blades play?

I have definitely learned a lot from my first blade build to now, and I've made 8 blades specifically by request by TT friends which have all given me positive feedback, stating that I met their "described request" as they all had very different builds given their playstyle description. I make them as a passion to fulfil my EJ soul, and I sell the blades that I don't personally use on my Etsy Store, with (1) buyer that took the time to leave a review (which was positive).

I am an (apprenticing) architect, and started using Rhino3D and my CNC to get the precise shapes/curves needed to achieve the performance and quality I'm striving for in my builds. I personally used all of my blades, except for the ones on Etsy (to which properties I will never know/feel, LOL). Each on has taught me, and help me expand my own "feel" of some of the subtle blade properties. I'm no virtuoso with my experience, and my bladecraft is still being refined, but I do prefer my Inner ALC to my Ovtcharov Inner ALC (the last blade I bought before I started making my own). I have used hide glue for the wood to wood ply adhesions since my fifteenth blade, and that undoubtedly gives more "feel", along with a superb acoustic sound when striking the ball.

 

[JJ Ng]

Most other folks are looking for lighter setup due to how the latest rubbers are mostly hard and heavy. If you want heavy just get an blade with a larger head and use a rubber like the Nittaku Hurricane 3 Turbo Orange or some other hard rubber. There is also variation in blade weight even in the same model so just ask for the heaviest one of the one you want from your retailer.

I second that opinion. Get a blade that has a big head.

A well balanced blade, carbon, with big head and with a bit of flex but not too much, at an affordable price:

Tibhar Samsonov Stratus Carbon

You will like it.

 

[Lazer]

I would contact a blade builder. I suggest Hipnotic. He is on this site and can meet most expectations.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[Scarfed Garchomp]

I second that opinion. Get a blade that has a big head.

A well balanced blade, carbon, with big head and with a bit of flex but not too much, at an affordable price:

Tibhar Samsonov Stratus Carbon

You will like it.

Doesn't sscb have 151x156mm head?

 

[SlowPower]

Maybe you need something custom built.
There is SDC, CC Blades or TT Manufaktur.

I could also try to build something for you, but i only built 5 blades till now and i am no professionell.
Id suggest a cypress or western red cedar core to get some weight and use a basalt outer type cause its more flexible than alc or zlc. Then use epoxy only for the last veneer and basalt, for the core id use normal wood glue as its more flexible.