How does blade influence gameplay?

[chiz]

you need booster, which you have to buy separately something like falco booster or the seamoon/dianci boosters.
you add it onto the rubber in a similar fashion to glue but you are supposed to apply it over the a glue layer to protect your rubber or something like that
search the forum pretty sure there is a tutorial out there somewhere
boosting will take up to a week before the rubber is useable

What's the difference between boosters and glue?

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

How do I boost?What materials do I need?

The thing I am wondering about, didn't you say you don't like H3???? Why do you want to use a rubber you don't like and have trouble with. H3 is hard. Even when you boost it, it is hard in a way that is different than Euro/Japanese rubbers. It works differently. Also, the 38 and 39 degree H3s are still hard. 42-degree sponge on an H3 is like using a brick with a tacky topsheet on it. So, if you don't like H3, don't use it. If you don't like hard rubbers then definitely don't bother.

Boosting will make the sponge softer but it will not make the sponge feel like Euro rubber. Haifa Seamoon Booster and Dianchi Booster are the best boosters for H3. But each costs about $50.00 to get. They are designed to work on H3 sponge. They work well. You just read the directions and follow them. Or you could try things like torch oil, baby oil, lighter fluid. However, those things don't work as well on DHS rubbers as they do on Euro/Japanese rubbers. And if you don't know how to do it--amounts, the way to mix them, how long to leave it on--good luck... Hopefully you have 2 or 3 extra H3s lying around to test on. Then you would figure it out using the chemicals from the hardware store. Oh, and any flammable solvent will work; even gasoline. But then your racket will not pass the tests if it got tested for VOCs.

Might as well get a rubber you like rather than messing with one you don't like and spending the money to try and figure out how to boost it.

 

[lycaon]

What's the difference between boosters and glue?

booster doesnt stick the rubber onto the bat and glue does
speed glue is banned and so people turned to booster which gives the same effect but is VOC free or so they say so it cannot be detected
if you arent competing professionally or at competitions i would just find myself some vendors clearing a bunch of speed glue and use that, just apply layers then put on bat, much more convenient and you H3 was made for speed glue anyways.
a note with booster and speed glue is that the effect does wear off after a while so you have to keep reapplying hence being a pain in the backside

 

[tabletennis11.com]

Blades have a huge influence on gameplay. In a game with such a small ball, any minor change can have a big effect and as such, touch and feeling are major players in the sport. Blades have a lot of different properties which can change the way you perform in training and matches and also change the way which your rubber reacts to the ball, as the blade is the support force behind the rubber and sponge. Great thread, very interesting responses!

 

[chiz]

The thing I am wondering about, didn't you say you don't like H3???? Why do you want to use a rubber you don't like and have trouble with. H3 is hard. Even when you boost it, it is hard in a way that is different than Euro/Japanese rubbers. It works differently. Also, the 38 and 39 degree H3s are still hard. 42-degree sponge on an H3 is like using a brick with a tacky topsheet on it. So, if you don't like H3, don't use it. If you don't like hard rubbers then definitely don't bother.

Boosting will make the sponge softer but it will not make the sponge feel like Euro rubber. Haifa Seamoon Booster and Dianchi Booster are the best boosters for H3. But each costs about $50.00 to get. They are designed to work on H3 sponge. They work well. You just read the directions and follow them. Or you could try things like torch oil, baby oil, lighter fluid. However, those things don't work as well on DHS rubbers as they do on Euro/Japanese rubbers. And if you don't know how to do it--amounts, the way to mix them, how long to leave it on--good luck... Hopefully you have 2 or 3 extra H3s lying around to test on. Then you would figure it out using the chemicals from the hardware store. Oh, and any flammable solvent will work; even gasoline. But then your racket will not pass the tests if it got tested for VOCs.

Might as well get a rubber you like rather than messing with one you don't like and spending the money to try and figure out how to boost it.

I already have it, might as well use it. It's mainly due to financial reasons.

 

[chiz]

haha, I rip-apart opponents (like Godzilla), haha good one.

Well, I do that on BH wing anyway with cheep-azz blade and a really inexpensive BH rubber there. Thing is, I just "see" the ball better on BH wind and when I decide to attack on that wing, it is point over... at least most of the time it is. Carl saw that personal. He would give me a short underspin low to my BH, normally a "safe" return, but it wasn't safe to me. Carl would try to serve long to my BH, as most players even 1900 USATT will not threaten you consistently with a BH attack vs that ball... wrong answer for me, I am strong there with 896 and XP 2008 and will spin the cover off the ball, often it is blocked out long and high... all with a $7 or $8 rubber that is just medium in speed and not well known or flashy.

For the record, I prefer a somewhat expensive $100-$200 main blade, with an average priced modern SGE rubber like Aurus or Evo series on FH, which would make my main setup cost around $230 USD. Nexy Kanaph: $150, Tibhar Aurus $40 in Korea, over $50 in USA, XP 2008 : $8 and add in international shipping and separate shipping for XP 2008, $230 is a realistic price point for my bat.

This is the bat I prefer to go to war with and fight with. However, when my main weapon is too damaged to fight on, I can play with my "Der_Echte Special" and still play well enough. it is not the exact specs I want, but with the mod to make it heavier and lower, I get by with that setup just fine until I can source another main battle ax.

After I had a two minute hit with Carl's Allround Evolution, I just had to get one and see for myself what it is to me over time. I messed around and seriously mutated the daylights out that sucka and now it is more mutant than the HULK & Frankenstein his-self combined... and plays GREAT even if you think you would need a bionic arm from Steve Austin becoming a Hulk to use it !! (Hint, the power comes from my legs and waist (and wrist right before impact) ) (If you ever saw my legs/waist in action, you wouldn't want to be round house kicked by me)

Carl is a genius more than I am. He found a way to live in a TT rich area and play at SPin when he wants and be around GREAT TTers a LOT haha. he also knows hiz stuff too. He also got a better off the bounce BH counter topspin vs a heavy loop than I do. And I consider myself to be above my level on that wing haha and he is better on that one.

Der_Echte is not a genius (like Carl), I simply refuse to accept the limits of something without trying more to make it closer to my specs. So what if I mess up and fail and lose the value of a $15 blade, I am not out that much money and it is good self-education. Sometimes we gotta fail before we grow. I simply discovered for myself that HEAVY down low on a lot of handle hollow blades is SOOOO much better feeling and performing to me.

Is the XP 2008 good for doing the banana flick? Is it hard?
Is it grippy? I like using tacky rubbers for more spin but they collect dust so easily that I want to shift to less tacky rubbers but still generate tremendous spin.

 

[chiz]

So here are the options that were made available to me:

Blade: Donic Allplay, Galaxy W6, Stiga Allround Evolution, Stiga Allround Classic, Galaxy 896
Rubbers: Yasaka Mark V, Dawei 2008 XP, Sriver, Palio Amigo, HN3 (Already have), Galaxy Moon (Already have)

Now what I need to do with the racket:

FH: Looping anything with good dwell time (I like to feel the ball going through the sponge)
BH: Banana flick and looping.

In general I'm looking to move away from tacky rubbers as they collect dust too easily. I'm looking for rubbers that will produce tremendous spin but are easily cleaned and do not collect dust easily. I hate the feeling when my rubber is full of dust and the ball just slip off the rubber without any spin. I think I'm looking at grippy rubbers there. I also don't want to play with very hard rubbers, medium-hard should be ok but more towards soft should be better. So based on this information, what can I go for?

Also: I want rubbers that can last at least 50 hours

 

[mahomedy13]

a very grippy rubber is donic baracuda.keep it in mind

 

[mahomedy13]

softer version is the donic baracuda big slam.Many people complain its slow,so it will suit you...

 

[chiz]

a very grippy rubber is donic baracuda.keep it in mind

noted, is it tacky?

 

[mahomedy13]

its not tacky,its grippy

 

[chiz]

its not tacky,its grippy

How does it do away from the table?

 

[mahomedy13]

i havent used it,but here are peoples thoughts

http://www.tabletennisdb.com/rubber/donic-baracuda.html

 

[chiz]

I'm thinking about trying out Dawei 2008 XP on BH but can't see thickness around 1.8-1.9
I would like to try something thinner on BH

 

[Kaizoku]

So here are the options that were made available to me:

Blade: Donic Allplay, Galaxy W6, Stiga Allround Evolution, Stiga Allround Classic, Galaxy 896
Rubbers: Yasaka Mark V, Dawei 2008 XP, Sriver, Palio Amigo, HN3 (Already have), Galaxy Moon (Already have)

Now what I need to do with the racket:

FH: Looping anything with good dwell time (I like to feel the ball going through the sponge)
BH: Banana flick and looping.

In general I'm looking to move away from tacky rubbers as they collect dust too easily. I'm looking for rubbers that will produce tremendous spin but are easily cleaned and do not collect dust easily. I hate the feeling when my rubber is full of dust and the ball just slip off the rubber without any spin. I think I'm looking at grippy rubbers there. I also don't want to play with very hard rubbers, medium-hard should be ok but more towards soft should be better. So based on this information, what can I go for?
Also: I want rubbers that can last at least 50 hours

Galaxy Moon is splendid for looping, budget wise I would keep it, but would swap the HN3, it's possible to loop, but would not recommend it as a rubber for that.
and "at least 50 hours" Any rubber that lasts longer then average would last that long. Which is more or less all of those. Appart from maybe Palio Amigo, which is maybe (probably) the slowest out of those rubbers aswell, it has a rather low throw angle, and it's durability is worse then all the others (on "average"). So I would count it out if I were you.


Also, concerning blades totally up to you which of them, but IF you were to choose Stiga, I would (again) highly recommend choosing Evolution and not Classic.
And concerning the dawei I could allso just find 2.0, 2,1 and 2,2 mm thickness on ebay, found 1,5mm one place, but that's a bit too thin I believe?
I think 2mm would do fine? It's not the fastest rubber afterall.

If I were you, I'd use the galaxy moon for the bh. and find a nice fh rubber and blade out of the remaining. Donic Baracuda or Tibhar Aurus allso seems like a good choice. Though if you're afraid it's too high tech, Mark v is a rubber you can't go wrong with. That's a promise.
http://www.tabletennisdb.com/database/popular-rubber.html -> Mark v= Second most popular rubber on the page after Tenergy 05. (Tenergy 05 is the worst budget wise btw) Sriver would allso be a good pick, but mark v is rated to last a bit longer, and trow angle on mark v is a litle higher, aswell as a bit more spinny (0,2+), so I would go with mark v. (I only tried mark v out of the two though xp)
Budget wise, Dawei 2008 XP is ofc the best.

- And, I recomend you to move your mouse over the question marks on the ratings on tabletennisdb.
That way you'l get an understanding of what it's actually rating. (in case you're unsure on some of them) Grip = Spin. Tacky is different as mentioned before.
You know a bit about how Galaxy moon feels I asume? (asuming you used it on the T-11, on a different blade it would ofcourse feel diferent, and a bit slower, but you have a certain idea of how it would feel I asume)
so why don't you try compare it http://www.tabletennisdb.com/rubber/yinhe-galaxy-moon.html to the others?

 

[Der_Echte]

Cole sells XP 2008 S. Power in 1.8 sponge and if you only order a sheet or two, international shipping isn't a killer.

http://www.colestt.com/inverted.php

Scroll down halfway or so.

 

[Der_Echte]

I can everything I need to do on BH wing with XP 2008 Super power on just about any blade I use or test.

Carl earlier mentioned that I "Rip Apart" players with my BH, man he is so graphic, but truly, I can make pace or spin with that rubber. I have a good impact and see it well on BH wing. Not everyone has a dangerous BH.

What I like about XP 2008 is it is not tacky, it is NOT super reactive to spin. On soft impacts, the ball doesn't fly out with catapult, so the short game is there if you learn the touch of it. BH power flip is there, and so is banana flip. This rubber's best property is CONTROL.

Since I have a very fast bat speed at impact and a strong impact, I don't need a super fast rubber, I need a controllable rubber and for $8 USD, you wont get a better rubber. Some other rubbers at $20 or $30 begin to get better.

 

[Kaizoku]

I can everything I need to do on BH wing with XP 2008 Super power on just about any blade I use or test.

Carl earlier mentioned that I "Rip Apart" players with my BH, man he is so graphic, but truly, I can make pace or spin with that rubber. I have a good impact and see it well on BH wing. Not everyone has a dangerous BH.

What I like about XP 2008 is it is not tacky, it is NOT super reactive to spin. On soft impacts, the ball doesn't fly out with catapult, so the short game is there if you learn the touch of it. BH power flip is there, and so is banana flip. This rubber's best property is CONTROL.

Since I have a very fast bat speed at impact and a strong impact, I don't need a super fast rubber, I need a controllable rubber and for $8 USD, you wont get a better rubber. Some other rubbers at $20 or $30 begin to get better.

That sounded so good I might buy it as bh for my extra (Galaxy-W6) racket to test it, lol.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Just one last piece of information, would it be worth it to spend $50.00 on booster to boost a rubber you do not like, simply because you have the rubber and don't want to spend money?????? And as already said, you have to boost over and over again because the boost wears off. And if you do it wrong you end up with a messed up rubber. And even if you do it well it shortens the life of the rubber and often people get bubbles in the topsheet from the boost expanding the rubber and weakening the bond between the pimples and the sponge. If you don't like tacky rubbers uses grippy non-tacky Euro/Japanese style rubbers and forget about the H3.

Next piece of information: tacky rubbers are sticky not grippy. Grippy rubbers are generally non tacky. Or, like Tenergy, they say there is a little tackiness but it is basically a grippy non-tacky rubber.

Last piece of info: the traditional thinking on looping and over the table looping (banana flip) with the backhand is that a GRIPPY NON-TACKY rubber that is on the softer side works better for backhand loops and banana flips. WHY? Because with the small stroke of a backhand and the whipping action (acceleration) of the stroke a soft rubber allows the ball to sink into the sponge so the topsheet can grab the ball and catapult it out with lots of spin. This is part of why the whole Chinese National team use some version of soft Japanese rubber on their backhands like Tenergy 05FX. Der_Echte is able to do that really well with XP 2008. Don't give him short heavy underspin anywhere from the middle of the FH side to the wide BH because he can footwork to it and flip with his backhand and make you pay. Hahaha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mahomedy13]

I can everything I need to do on BH wing with XP 2008 Super power on just about any blade I use or test.

Carl earlier mentioned that I "Rip Apart" players with my BH, man he is so graphic, but truly, I can make pace or spin with that rubber. I have a good impact and see it well on BH wing. Not everyone has a dangerous BH.

What I like about XP 2008 is it is not tacky, it is NOT super reactive to spin. On soft impacts, the ball doesn't fly out with catapult, so the short game is there if you learn the touch of it. BH power flip is there, and so is banana flip. This rubber's best property is CONTROL.

Since I have a very fast bat speed at impact and a strong impact, I don't need a super fast rubber, I need a controllable rubber and for $8 USD, you wont get a better rubber. Some other rubbers at $20 or $30 begin to get better.

i just got xp 2008 for $4 from someone,brand new.should have taken more,as you really praise that rubber.