Rubber advice for the dark side

[Pe-ter]

Bit of a backstory: Joined a league and I'm the punchbag for the opponents. Haven't won anything (was one ball away from winning the decider but plebbed it). Here and there are some players using anti or SP. And after a match where I was humiliated and was close to give my bat a lesson in flying across the hall, a stupid idea popped in my head. Let's give them a taste of their own medicine. Get myself a second blade and put anti on it! This went way too far, because I did it. Broke my piggy bank and ordered my first (mega expensive) carbon blade. This is it!

I'm not proud of that idea in the first place! But hear me out guys. Since my piggy bank is bleeding (cost of the blade AND shipping to Europe was 94 cents. Yes, 0,94 EUR). The envelope in which it was sent was more expensive I guess. But now I have the blade here and I need YOUR help. During the long waiting time I had my thoughts on the rubbers I should put on.

The devil on one shoulder was shouting "PUT ANTI ON ONE SIDE AND SP ON THE OTHER!!" and a crazy weirdo on the other responding with "NO F! WAY, soft rubbers on both sides" (C-1, 05fx or something similar) and play with it (and loose your games with it) as you're with your main blade. Don't join the dark side!

However...from the pics I can't even say if it's a bad fake (as the inprint is not straight) or just a regular fake (for that price), but from the last pic it seems to be some sort on Inner(dark colored paper)fiber, but my mind is refusing to believe that could potentially be ANY sort of carbon in there.

Now to the question you all are waiting for. What rubbers would you recommend if you would go anti+soft inverted?
In terms of Anti, I'd like to have as much spin reversal as possible (any downsides having rubber with a lot of spin reversal?), guess I should go with a thin rubber then, not max thickness. My secret crush is the Nittaku Best Anti (Yes, I'm influenced by my main bat).
FH wise, soft rubber that can produce a lot of spin for quality serves (of which I lack all of the necessary capabilities), but also should be capable of looping back spin with ease (cause obviously I can't do that), good for smashing (if by some miracle the opponent misreads the magic of the anti) and if possible also good for over the table/close to the table game AND good/solid in short game. Again, personal preference is Fastarc C-1, but I'm open to any recommendations of rubbers that (based on my description of preference) do not exist.

In case of any of you had this beauty of Chinese engineering precision and have some experience with it, I'm more than welcome to read it (incl. your rubber setup).

I still want to stick with my main loosing strategy of playing inverted, this is solely to mess around with players with anti/SP/LP. Also for training purposes, my weird mind believes that if I learn how to play WITH anti, I can understand and learn how to play AGAINST it. Or it's just a lie and I'm a secretly EJ-ing as I have my eyes on a BTY Amar Assar blade that my team mate is going to part ways soon.

Shout out to anyone who came that far in this post!

 

[boretennis]

i can't say much in regards to anti, but this blade is so much better than the price suggests. i got one just for fun and put a palio hadou on fh and could land some suprisingly high quality shots.

 

[NextLevel]

Bit of a backstory: Joined a league and I'm the punchbag for the opponents. Haven't won anything (was one ball away from winning the decider but plebbed it). Here and there are some players using anti or SP. And after a match where I was humiliated and was close to give my bat a lesson in flying across the hall, a stupid idea popped in my head. Let's give them a taste of their own medicine. Get myself a second blade and put anti on it! This went way too far, because I did it. Broke my piggy bank and ordered my first (mega expensive) carbon blade. This is it!

View attachment 35688

View attachment 35689

I'm not proud of that idea in the first place! But hear me out guys. Since my piggy bank is bleeding (cost of the blade AND shipping to Europe was 94 cents. Yes, 0,94 EUR). The envelope in which it was sent was more expensive I guess. But now I have the blade here and I need YOUR help. During the long waiting time I had my thoughts on the rubbers I should put on.

The devil on one shoulder was shouting "PUT ANTI ON ONE SIDE AND SP ON THE OTHER!!" and a crazy weirdo on the other responding with "NO F! WAY, soft rubbers on both sides" (C-1, 05fx or something similar) and play with it (and loose your games with it) as you're with your main blade. Don't join the dark side!

However...from the pics I can't even say if it's a bad fake (as the inprint is not straight) or just a regular fake (for that price), but from the last pic it seems to be some sort on Inner(dark colored paper)fiber, but my mind is refusing to believe that could potentially be ANY sort of carbon in there.

Now to the question you all are waiting for. What rubbers would you recommend if you would go anti+soft inverted?
In terms of Anti, I'd like to have as much spin reversal as possible (any downsides having rubber with a lot of spin reversal?), guess I should go with a thin rubber then, not max thickness. My secret crush is the Nittaku Best Anti (Yes, I'm influenced by my main bat).
FH wise, soft rubber that can produce a lot of spin for quality serves (of which I lack all of the necessary capabilities), but also should be capable of looping back spin with ease (cause obviously I can't do that), good for smashing (if by some miracle the opponent misreads the magic of the anti) and if possible also good for over the table/close to the table game AND good/solid in short game. Again, personal preference is Fastarc C-1, but I'm open to any recommendations of rubbers that (based on my description of preference) do not exist.

In case of any of you had this beauty of Chinese engineering precision and have some experience with it, I'm more than welcome to read it (incl. your rubber setup).

I still want to stick with my main loosing strategy of playing inverted, this is solely to mess around with players with anti/SP/LP. Also for training purposes, my weird mind believes that if I learn how to play WITH anti, I can understand and learn how to play AGAINST it. Or it's just a lie and I'm a secretly EJ-ing as I have my eyes on a BTY Amar Assar blade that my team mate is going to part ways soon.

Shout out to anyone who came that far in this post!

Many people who play with dark side rubbers don't have training partners. I was lucky to start my TT in Philadelphia area which had a lot of pips players and coach who despite not being a pips player had a lot of experience playing against them and could use them in training. So I learned that if you can hit and attack the no-spin ball reliably, most of your problems with pips/anti go away.

Many players only want to read the spin of the ball that comes off an inverted racket, that is why they have problems with pips. But if you learn to hit/loop the no spin ball and become proficient at adjusting to the spin on the ball (something you should learn to do with inverted, and actually learning how to do it against pips makes you more conscious of what is happening when you do it against inverted), then a lot of the issues you have playing against pips become far less intolerable.

All that said, playing with them can help a little in the sense that you realize they are not magic and they have their own physics. The biggest barrier to people not learning to play against pips or anti is that they act like the pips/anti do not follow rules, when the rules can be figured out if you understand your technique and take a structured approach to applying your technique to the opponent.

 

[Tyce]

Ooh, you got the inner version! Please do share how it plays because this is probably the craziest bang for buck blade in the world

 

[lodro]

I got a couple of these blades and got one of them for half price because i ordered outer and they send me an inner.

I refuse to give any advise for rubbers belonging to the dark side as I am battling for the glorious light side. But really it takes too much effort to learn to play dark.
I got Loki Rxton 3 PRO on the FH and an unboosted H3 on the BH.
I got the same combo on my DHS G blade and can find no difference between the two.

 

[mamedium]

im also curious how this inner T5000 plays. is it really stiff and virtually no flex as the Tamca carbon indicates?

 

[Pe-ter]

I got a couple of these blades and got one of them for half price because i ordered outer and they send me an inner.

I refuse to give any advise for rubbers belonging to the dark side as I am battling for the glorious light side. But really it takes too much effort to learn to play dark.
I got Loki Rxton 3 PRO on the FH and an unboosted H3 on the BH.
I got the same combo on my DHS G blade and can find no difference between the two.

Thank you. My aim is not to switch sides in the first place. Have two different intentions.
First is to understand better what goes on with anti (at least the basic principles), so that I can play better against it. Don't want to master the dark devil. In my club there is only one anti player and one with long pips. The last time I saw them was before christmas. So not a lot to train against. Having at least the bat that we can give to anyone (whoever picks the shortest match).
Second, in league matches, only to play against other anti/pimple players as a kind of revenge (even tough I think the best revenge is beating them with inverted rubbers!).

I don't want to spend a lot of money on this paddle, it won't be my main one. Can't even rule out that I'll replace that damn anti very soon.

Quick spoiler, because of money issues I think the FH rubber will be the Double Fish VOLANT-Phoenix 2

 

[Pe-ter]

im also curious how this inner T5000 plays. is it really stiff and virtually no flex as the Tamca carbon indicates?

Will let you know once I put some rubber on it.

 

[lodro]

I got a couple of these blades and got one of them for half price because i ordered outer and they send me an inner.

I refuse to give any advise for rubbers belonging to the dark side as I am battling for the glorious light side. But really it takes too much effort to learn to play dark.
I got Loki Rxton 3 PRO on the FH and an unboosted H3 on the BH.
I got the same combo on my DHS G blade and can find no difference between the two.

im also curious how this inner T5000 plays. is it really stiff and virtually no flex as the Tamca carbon indicates?

It is not a brick

 

[igorponger]

Well, first of all you should get this actual instrument from China available at 290 ¥.
We will gladly instruct you of the due testing procedure. Dont be a silent loser, dont let the LP cheaters make you a humbled mockery.

 

[blahness]

Buy some anti for BH (max spin reversal) and a super slow tacky rubber on FH (max spin). Nasty af setup in the right hands.

 

[greenbeanmachine]

If you want max spin reversal, you should use long pips. Antispin mostly just makes a dead ball -- good for dropping the ball close to the net, but not so good for spin reversal.

If you haven't played with any weird rubbers, I think short pips is the best starting place. Try Friendship 802 or 802-40. It's disruptive enough and it won't be too hard to learn. Long pips and anti are both very hard to control and take time to learn -- it's not an automatic cheat code to let you confuse the opponent.

 

[Tyce]

If you want max spin reversal, you should use long pips. Antispin mostly just makes a dead ball -- good for dropping the ball close to the net, but not so good for spin reversal.

This is true for classic anti, but modern "frictionless" (flanti) or "grip less" anti (glanti, same thing) is actually more suited for reversal.

If you haven't played with any weird rubbers, I think short pips is the best starting place. Try Friendship 802 or 802-40. It's disruptive enough and it won't be too hard to learn. Long pips and anti are both very hard to control and take time to learn -- it's not an automatic cheat code to let you confuse the opponent.

 

[Pe-ter]

This is true for classic anti, but modern "frictionless" (flanti) or "grip less" anti (glanti, same thing) is actually more suited for reversal.

What would then be a good rubber that has a solid reversal but isn't pips?

 

[Tyce]

For modern Anti, first thing that comes to mind is the ABS series

 

[Ultravisitor]

Keep it cheap and get yourself a sheet of dawei 388d-1 ox
It has enough reversal to annoy your training partner and can be gotten for less than 5 bucks. Also its relatively easy to control for how good it is.
Don't know how good it pairs with that blade though

 

[tzifos]

It would be fine with the T5000 blade, is quite stiff.

 

[Pe-ter]

It would be fine with the T5000 blade, is quite stiff.

and a different question, If I'd like to give it a go with regular rubbers, would you consider putting XIOM Vega Europe on that blade as as good idea (on both sides)?
Backstory: Maybe I'm just overthinking that the Hadraw 5 with Nittaku G-1/C-1 is still too fast for my "talent"...so just thinking about slower but spinier rubbers. And here goes the EJ-ing 🙄

 

[Ultravisitor]

and a different question, If I'd like to give it a go with regular rubbers, would you consider putting XIOM Vega Europe on that blade as as good idea (on both sides)?
Backstory: Maybe I'm just overthinking that the Hadraw 5 with Nittaku G-1/C-1 is still too fast for my "talent"...so just thinking about slower but spinier rubbers. And here goes the EJ-ing 🙄

It`s always worth it to try Yinhe Mercury. They are spinny and slow, but are not easy to bottom out