Setup Questions

[blahness]

Just use D05 on BH, don't worry too much about the speed, because the rubber is already fast you can focus on spinning the ball (which is the thing that gives you confidence in ripping the ball hard) - luckily D05 is also extremely good at generating spin. No spin = mistakes galore if you try to rip it hard. It is the best BH rubber in the game imo. The only place where 09c is way better than 05 is the short push, but you haven't really reached that level where short push is necessary or even beneficial, so there really is no reason to go for 09c imo.

Imo D05 is not expensive because it's durable af, I think it's 2x more durable than 09c in terms of performance.

I have sheets of 1 yr old D05s which I could use without too much performance degradation.

 

[Zezima]

Just use D05 on BH, don't worry too much about the speed, because the rubber is already fast you can focus on spinning the ball (which is the thing that gives you confidence in ripping the ball hard) - luckily D05 is also extremely good at generating spin. No spin = mistakes galore if you try to rip it hard. It is the best BH rubber in the game imo. The only place where 09c is way better than 05 is the short push, but you haven't really reached that level where short push is necessary or even beneficial, so there really is no reason to go for 09c imo.

Imo D05 is not expensive because it's durable af, I think it's 2x more durable than 09c in terms of performance.

I have sheets of 1 yr old D05s which I could use without too much performance degradation.

The Discount is over now. So I won't get the Butterfly rubber.
What makes you think I haven't reached the level where short push is necessary? I play in a League against 1300-2100 RC-Rating Players. So for sure I need the ability to short push aswell.

 

[Zezima]

The Long 5 and Hurricane 3 was made for each other on the FH. It is not very expensive to try it out unless you go for the National versions. The Hurricane should allow you to attack with more confidence. If you got a good Long 5, you can hit very hard and the ball will feel like it magically goes in due to the spin and deep hold. If you spend a bit more for the provincial version you don't even need to boost as it is faster than the commercial.

Idk about Hurricane 3. Doesnt it need special treatment with boosting and so on? Also I am someone who likes to lead the ball which I don´t think I will be able to do with a rubber like this. I struggle with my legs during the game and barely have any energy left after playing just one game. Maybe next time we go for a testcase I can try it out. You mean the normal version that would cost me 27€((TT11) right? This approach with this rubber sounds very inconsistent to me. I rather play with a less maintenance and more consistent rubber, where I have the ability to also just lead it back to the table.

 

[blahness]

The Discount is over now. So I won't get the Butterfly rubber.
What makes you think I haven't reached the level where short push is necessary? I play in a League against 1300-2100 RC-Rating Players. So for sure I need the ability to short push aswell.

If you look at your opponents currently they mostly give you long balls (which is also a valid strategy). Short pushes are only valuable when there's a lot of short game play (which only happens when everything long is punished decisively). Even then, short pushes are not necessarily the best strategy even against advanced players - there are plenty of pros who don't short push all that much.

What I mean is that, you can't have everything in a rubber, you have to give up some things to get other things. For D05 the thing you give up for the easy access to great spin and speed and control in the open topspin game, is the feeling in the short push. For me, I also prioritise other serve receives (long push, sideswipe,chiquita, etc...) over short pushing for this reason.

 

[Tembel]

You could go for Glayzer09c for your backhand. It is quite a lot slower, but that is what you need to build up the confidence to use proper BH technique also in matches (as you describe, your BH is much better in practice).

Your FH is good, go for Dignics on the FH.

 

[Zezima]

idk g1 is on sales atm for just 30€. I can go max here since you guys say my fh is good. So I get more spin out of this rubber.

I just feel very confident to block / active blocks with my bh that it almost feels like a disadvantage when I loop with my bh. Might be just my technique though.

 

[jk1980]

Just use D05 on BH, don't worry too much about the speed, because the rubber is already fast you can focus on spinning the ball (which is the thing that gives you confidence in ripping the ball hard) - luckily D05 is also extremely good at generating spin. No spin = mistakes galore if you try to rip it hard. It is the best BH rubber in the game imo. T

Imo D05 is not expensive because it's durable af, I think it's 2x more durable than 09c in terms of performance.

I have sheets of 1 yr old D05s which I could use without too much performance degradation.

I think it is preposterous to advise somebody who has trouble with his backhand to play a pretty hard to play rubber on that very side. The D05 is used by professionals because they got the technique and footwork to make it work, but it is by far not the best rubber to develop anything with, especially if the person in question has to perform regularily inside games as well.

the only place where 09c is way better than 05 is the short push, but you haven't really reached that level where short push is necessary or even beneficial, so there really is no reason to go for 09c imo.

this strongly depends on the country you are playing in. I have noticed a pattern whereby pretty much everywhere in the world beginners and low level table tennis players will favor the open game and basically play long serves and counter/drive balls long most of the time. The notable exception seems to be countries that do use the german language.

There the low level game does consist way more out of short game, push battles, chops and defensive tactics. The opponents will basically fight tooth and nail to not go into an open game and just play short underspin serves and try to push short all the time. This is often seen with older senior players that basically neutralize the physical advantage younger players have by declining to switch to the open play.

You have to break through a certain threshold to actually be able to get out of this short push battle by being able to reliably open up over the table with flicks.
I think in Zezima's league there might be a few older players that will play like that and in this scenario a D05 on the backhand is really not ideal.
If the enemy always pushes short and Zezimas pushes go long because of the higher speed of D05, then Zezima will always be in the backfoot, because the opponent can use the long pushes to attack (be it looping or smashing which is more likely with older folks).

I think the advise to check if the G-1 in 2.0 is good enough for the backhand play is a very valid one. That would be the easiest way to find that out.

Proposals to switch the forehand rubber to DHS Hurricane are really outlandish, since it is a very different technique needed to use that compared to a moderate tensor like the G-1.
Why would one destroy the feeling and technique one has with a different rubber that needs very different technique and will make many parts of the game very different (i.e. short game).

Zezima, if you really are bored and want something similarily powerful like G-1 just with a few more gears in the lower speed department, i can recommend the Stiga DNA hybrid M which is basically a G-1 with 20% less speed and catapult in the low game, but still great power when you use more power in your drive.

If we go by current discounts on tabletennis11 there are a few options for your backhand that are cheaper right now:
- donic barracuda 34€, pretty similar to G-1 in that it is very linear and not too hard
- rakza Z 34€, harder than G-1 but softer topsheet and harder sponge. It is a notch better in the short game than G-1, but has enough elasticity to speed up the game and through that tacky topsheet the spin generation is top notch.

 

[Robin0910]

A lot of people use Fastarc C1 on the backhand paired with G1 on FH, it’s not all that different except it’s softer.

 

[blahness]

I think it is preposterous to advise somebody who has trouble with his backhand to play a pretty hard to play rubber on that very side. The D05 is used by professionals because they got the technique and footwork to make it work, but it is by far not the best rubber to develop anything with, especially if the person in question has to perform regularily inside games as well.



this strongly depends on the country you are playing in. I have noticed a pattern whereby pretty much everywhere in the world beginners and low level table tennis players will favor the open game and basically play long serves and counter/drive balls long most of the time. The notable exception seems to be countries that do use the german language.

There the low level game does consist way more out of short game, push battles, chops and defensive tactics. The opponents will basically fight tooth and nail to not go into an open game and just play short underspin serves and try to push short all the time. This is often seen with older senior players that basically neutralize the physical advantage younger players have by declining to switch to the open play.

You have to break through a certain threshold to actually be able to get out of this short push battle by being able to reliably open up over the table with flicks.
I think in Zezima's league there might be a few older players that will play like that and in this scenario a D05 on the backhand is really not ideal.
If the enemy always pushes short and Zezimas pushes go long because of the higher speed of D05, then Zezima will always be in the backfoot, because the opponent can use the long pushes to attack (be it looping or smashing which is more likely with older folks).

I think the advise to check if the G-1 in 2.0 is good enough for the backhand play is a very valid one. That would be the easiest way to find that out.

Proposals to switch the forehand rubber to DHS Hurricane are really outlandish, since it is a very different technique needed to use that compared to a moderate tensor like the G-1.
Why would one destroy the feeling and technique one has with a different rubber that needs very different technique and will make many parts of the game very different (i.e. short game).

Zezima, if you really are bored and want something similarily powerful like G-1 just with a few more gears in the lower speed department, i can recommend the Stiga DNA hybrid M which is basically a G-1 with 20% less speed and catapult in the low game, but still great power when you use more power in your drive.

If we go by current discounts on tabletennis11 there are a few options for your backhand that are cheaper right now:
- donic barracuda 34€, pretty similar to G-1 in that it is very linear and not too hard
- rakza Z 34€, harder than G-1 but softer topsheet and harder sponge. It is a notch better in the short game than G-1, but has enough elasticity to speed up the game and through that tacky topsheet the spin generation is top notch.

It's not that straightforward- OP tried T05 and said it felt very nice. D05 would give him a similar feeling and more control while giving him easy to access spin. Furthermore D05 is quite durable and wouldn't be too expensive.

A lot of amateur short pushes at OP's level aren't really short (2 bounces minimum) - also if you look at the video he posted the majority are long balls. Short game is overrated if you can block the opening loop well which OP does do quite decently. Older folks can open up first however they want to, it's unlikely to be so strong that OP cannot at least block it and go into a minimum 50-50 topspin rally. Better to do that than to pop the ball up and get killed immediately. Also OP is tall af so he should be able to defend all the wide angles well.

There's many ways to avoid the short game. For eg you could just serve sidetopspin all day long, or simply serve fast long serves - I would welcome any kind of short push attempt against these serves lol. For receiving, if OP does a sideswipe or pushes long, how is the opponent gonna push it back short. OP can pretty much force the opponent to do an opening loop so that he can defend and go into the open rally, or if they don't open the return ball it is gonna be long and OP can open strongly behind it.

 

[Robin0910]

It's not that straightforward- OP tried T05 and said it felt very nice. D05 would give him a similar feeling and more control while giving him easy to access spin. Furthermore D05 is quite durable and wouldn't be too expensive.

A lot of amateur short pushes at OP's level aren't really short (2 bounces minimum) - also if you look at the video he posted the majority are long balls. Short game is overrated if you can block the opening loop well which OP does do quite decently. Older folks can open up first however they want to, it's unlikely to be so strong that OP cannot at least block it and go into a minimum 50-50 topspin rally. Better to do that than to pop the ball up and get killed immediately. Also OP is tall af so he should be able to defend all the wide angles well.

T05 is quite different from Dignics 05, D05 is noticeably harder and it’s harder to generate quality topspin, also it’s too expensive to just buy one and try it. Dignics 80 on the other hand feels softer and easier to use. Could be a good transition for D05 in the long run. Either way, the op doesn’t even want to buy Butterfly anymore so whatever

 

[WingTT]

Idk about Hurricane 3. Doesnt it need special treatment with boosting and so on? Also I am someone who likes to lead the ball which I don´t think I will be able to do with a rubber like this. I struggle with my legs during the game and barely have any energy left after playing just one game. Maybe next time we go for a testcase I can try it out. You mean the normal version that would cost me 27€((TT11) right? This approach with this rubber sounds very inconsistent to me. I rather play with a less maintenance and more consistent rubber, where I have the ability to also just lead it back to the table.

Just try it and see. Even without boosting it is not as slow as some would have you believe because they are comparing it to tensors on low speed bounces or they have really slow blades.

 

[Der_Echte]

I think it is preposterous to advise somebody who has trouble with his backhand to play a pretty hard to play rubber on that very side. The D05 is used by professionals because they got the technique and footwork to make it work, but it is by far not the best rubber to develop anything with, especially if the person in question has to perform regularily inside games as well.



this strongly depends on the country you are playing in. I have noticed a pattern whereby pretty much everywhere in the world beginners and low level table tennis players will favor the open game and basically play long serves and counter/drive balls long most of the time. The notable exception seems to be countries that do use the german language.

There the low level game does consist way more out of short game, push battles, chops and defensive tactics. The opponents will basically fight tooth and nail to not go into an open game and just play short underspin serves and try to push short all the time. This is often seen with older senior players that basically neutralize the physical advantage younger players have by declining to switch to the open play.

You have to break through a certain threshold to actually be able to get out of this short push battle by being able to reliably open up over the table with flicks.
I think in Zezima's league there might be a few older players that will play like that and in this scenario a D05 on the backhand is really not ideal.
If the enemy always pushes short and Zezimas pushes go long because of the higher speed of D05, then Zezima will always be in the backfoot, because the opponent can use the long pushes to attack (be it looping or smashing which is more likely with older folks).

I think the advise to check if the G-1 in 2.0 is good enough for the backhand play is a very valid one. That would be the easiest way to find that out.

Proposals to switch the forehand rubber to DHS Hurricane are really outlandish, since it is a very different technique needed to use that compared to a moderate tensor like the G-1.
Why would one destroy the feeling and technique one has with a different rubber that needs very different technique and will make many parts of the game very different (i.e. short game).

Zezima, if you really are bored and want something similarily powerful like G-1 just with a few more gears in the lower speed department, i can recommend the Stiga DNA hybrid M which is basically a G-1 with 20% less speed and catapult in the low game, but still great power when you use more power in your drive.

If we go by current discounts on tabletennis11 there are a few options for your backhand that are cheaper right now:
- donic barracuda 34€, pretty similar to G-1 in that it is very linear and not too hard
- rakza Z 34€, harder than G-1 but softer topsheet and harder sponge. It is a notch better in the short game than G-1, but has enough elasticity to speed up the game and through that tacky topsheet the spin generation is top notch.

I have keine Ahnung why jk1980 would want to talk good sense on a thread that has quickly become wild dreaming equipment blind recommending oriented.

Still, someone has to try to use reason.

What the heck, I have tried that before too without much effect.

 

[Zezima]

Ok so..
- I don´t wanna really try an entirely newish Rubber like Hurricane 3 in the middle of season, I need to use this time to get as good as I can so we as a team don´t get demoted (currently 2nd last place with last place being 1P behind only).

- @blahness is kind of right with the playstyle. People dont even serve short against me. Usually I show some sort of weakness to long balls. The Female player would serve halflong backsidespin kind of empty. I get served stuff like that.

He is one of the better players in the league 1st set is a disaster for me. I couldn´t understand his shortpips serves. The ball trajectory was super weird like the speed of the ball. And his serve to my fh having to reach for that "empty" ball I would push it high up and long. These are weaknesses no Rubber can change I think.

Here I could just film the last set after 5-2 I believe. Here it was super important to either attack his serve or keep it short enough for him not to attack. But I failed.

So I have 2 "bad" feelings with my current setup that makes me not go for some shots Id like because I have no control it seems.
1. When they serve (half long) to my backhand and I wanna flip. I don´t really have that "soft?" or "the right feeling" flicking with spin. Always feels like I hit the ball wrong even when it goes to the other side. And most of the times it flys super slow to the other side. Maybe its just a technique Issue during game. This sometimes makes me push the serve back.
2. My short FH receive. If I get an empty ball or just sidespin or only slight backspin. I just overshoot the ball and lose confidence to loop those balls to start the rally. Even tho during the shot it feels like I am not even lifting the ball. This also happens if they push long with light backspin if any and I loop those balls in a way I wanna finish the rally -> goes out a few cm. This makes me not want to have a fast arm movement. My brain connects -> fast armmovement with "Ball goes out" then. Again probably technique Issue or whatever.

My thoughtprocess now is to get both Rakza 7 and G1 FH on my Long 5 Blade in max thickness. Maybe I can reprogram my brain better to not hit the balls but work with spin. I remember 2y ago I had a blade with max thickness. And I could get that good feedback when I was hitting with the rubber. I think it was a R53 rubber.

I am aware I might overshoot even more than in the beginning. I will also try the g1 and play it with my bh today by turning my racket side and see if I can feel any difference. The thing with Rakza 7 is it saved me a lot by Blocking these loops from my opp that went to my BH. But it only rewards more flat hitting counterattacks rather than brushing. Atleast that's what I got as a feeling.

 

[ck1407]

Ok so..
- I don´t wanna really try an entirely newish Rubber like Hurricane 3 in the middle of season, I need to use this time to get as good as I can so we as a team don´t get demoted (currently 2nd last place with last place being 1P behind only).

- @blahness is kind of right with the playstyle. People dont even serve short against me. Usually I show some sort of weakness to long balls. The Female player would serve halflong backsidespin kind of empty. I get served stuff like that.

He is one of the better players in the league 1st set is a disaster for me. I couldn´t understand his shortpips serves. The ball trajectory was super weird like the speed of the ball. And his serve to my fh having to reach for that "empty" ball I would push it high up and long. These are weaknesses no Rubber can change I think.

Here I could just film the last set after 5-2 I believe. Here it was super important to either attack his serve or keep it short enough for him not to attack. But I failed.

So I have 2 "bad" feelings with my current setup that makes me not go for some shots Id like because I have no control it seems.
1. When they serve (half long) to my backhand and I wanna flip. I don´t really have that "soft?" or "the right feeling" flicking with spin. Always feels like I hit the ball wrong even when it goes to the other side. And most of the times it flys super slow to the other side. Maybe its just a technique Issue during game. This sometimes makes me push the serve back.
2. My short FH receive. If I get an empty ball or just sidespin or only slight backspin. I just overshoot the ball and lose confidence to loop those balls to start the rally. Even tho during the shot it feels like I am not even lifting the ball. This also happens if they push long with light backspin if any and I loop those balls in a way I wanna finish the rally -> goes out a few cm. This makes me not want to have a fast arm movement. My brain connects -> fast armmovement with "Ball goes out" then. Again probably technique Issue or whatever.

My thoughtprocess now is to get both Rakza 7 and G1 FH on my Long 5 Blade in max thickness. Maybe I can reprogram my brain better to not hit the balls but work with spin. I remember 2y ago I had a blade with max thickness. And I could get that good feedback when I was hitting with the rubber. I think it was a R53 rubber.

I am aware I might overshoot even more than in the beginning. I will also try the g1 and play it with my bh today by turning my racket side and see if I can feel any difference. The thing with Rakza 7 is it saved me a lot by Blocking these loops from my opp that went to my BH. But it only rewards more flat hitting counterattacks rather than brushing. Atleast that's what I got as a feeling.

I think you got most things figured out. While it is nice to have the forum to give you suggestions, I totally agree with you that making drastic change mid season is a bad decision.
Stick to the current plan you have in mind and hope you perform even better for the remaining season.

 

[jk1980]

So I have 2 "bad" feelings with my current setup that makes me not go for some shots Id like because I have no control it seems.
1. When they serve (half long) to my backhand and I wanna flip. I don´t really have that "soft?" or "the right feeling" flicking with spin. Always feels like I hit the ball wrong even when it goes to the other side. And most of the times it flys super slow to the other side. Maybe its just a technique Issue during game. This sometimes makes me push the serve back.
2. My short FH receive. If I get an empty ball or just sidespin or only slight backspin. I just overshoot the ball and lose confidence to loop those balls to start the rally. Even tho during the shot it feels like I am not even lifting the ball. This also happens if they push long with light backspin if any and I loop those balls in a way I wanna finish the rally -> goes out a few cm. This makes me not want to have a fast arm movement. My brain connects -> fast armmovement with "Ball goes out" then. Again probably technique Issue or whatever.

My thoughtprocess now is to get both Rakza 7 and G1 FH on my Long 5 Blade in max thickness. Maybe I can reprogram my brain better to not hit the balls but work with spin. I remember 2y ago I had a blade with max thickness. And I could get that good feedback when I was hitting with the rubber. I think it was a R53 rubber.

I am aware I might overshoot even more than in the beginning. I will also try the g1 and play it with my bh today by turning my racket side and see if I can feel any difference. The thing with Rakza 7 is it saved me a lot by Blocking these loops from my opp that went to my BH. But it only rewards more flat hitting counterattacks rather than brushing. Atleast that's what I got as a feeling.

Feeling is of course something subjective. Nobody can now what you do feel when you flick a ball, but if the goal is to be able to use your current technique and power level over the table without overshooting that often, then i think you might do better with something that is noticeably slower when not fully activated.

Increasing the sponge thickness will not help in that regard and i think it is a shot into the dark to think that this might help your feeling when flicking or over the table game.

This will enable you to control the over the table shots better, since your arm power will not instantly shoot out rockets that pierce the wall of the gym.
There were already a few rubbers mentioned that. The biggest problem is that these rubbers will (even if they fix or help your flicking game) mandate that you adjust your topspin looping game a little. In best case you only adjust the racket angle when looping.

Rubbers that are slower than the G-1 in the over the table game are:
- Butterfly Glayer 09c
- Rakza Z
- Nittaku PK50 Sieger

You could try to have a look at this list:

Belagtest Anatomic Edge.xlsx

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

and check the "Katapult" column.
Interestingly enough this shows that even some "allegedly" toned down versions like MX-S vs MX-D are very close in how much the ball will bounce of your racked with the slightest of touches.

I would postpone the decision to change something until your current rubber is done and the season is over. That will give you enough time to test what fits your game.

 

[exotick]

Feeling is of course something subjective. Nobody can now what you do feel when you flick a ball, but if the goal is to be able to use your current technique and power level over the table without overshooting that often, then i think you might do better with something that is noticeably slower when not fully activated.

Increasing the sponge thickness will not help in that regard and i think it is a shot into the dark to think that this might help your feeling when flicking or over the table game.

This will enable you to control the over the table shots better, since your arm power will not instantly shoot out rockets that pierce the wall of the gym.
There were already a few rubbers mentioned that. The biggest problem is that these rubbers will (even if they fix or help your flicking game) mandate that you adjust your topspin looping game a little. In best case you only adjust the racket angle when looping.

Rubbers that are slower than the G-1 in the over the table game are:
- Butterfly Glayer 09c
- Rakza Z
- Nittaku PK50 Sieger

You could try to have a look at this list:

Belagtest Anatomic Edge.xlsx

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

and check the "Katapult" column.
Interestingly enough this shows that even some "allegedly" toned down versions like MX-S vs MX-D are very close in how much the ball will bounce of your racked with the slightest of touches.

I would postpone the decision to change something until your current rubber is done and the season is over. That will give you enough time to test what fits your game.

Really good info that. Could you translate the terms,please? such as g OVP, UG etc, SHore A and O, etc.

 

[jk1980]

The first three columns are weight with packaging, without Packaging and cut to a Standard size.
Then follows sponge thickness, total thickness, topsheet thickness, shore a measurement(hardness), grip, low end catapult, short o hardness(which I believe is just calculated from the shore a measurement)

 

[Zezima]

The first three columns are weight with packaging, without Packaging and cut to a Standard size.
Then follows sponge thickness, total thickness, topsheet thickness, shore a measurement(hardness), grip, low end catapult, short o hardness(which I believe is just calculated from the shore a measurement)

How do I need to understand the grip column? The more kg the faster arm movement is needed to "activate" the rubber? How do you know you activated the rubber since I can also do topspins very slow. I suppose it would sound differently, but that also sounds different if I hit with the "rubber" and not with the "blade".

2. Could be a Mental thing aswell. Maybe I don't activate the rubber and that's why it feels weird. So I just need to tell myself to do the stroke faster and shorter.

3.

Tibhar Hybrid K3	109 g	68 g	49 g	2.0 mm	3.61 mm	1.6 mm	30.5	1.82 kg	16.5 cm J142		42.7
Tibhar Hybrid MK	106 g	64 g	46 g	2.0 mm	3.55 mm	1.6 mm	30.5	1.75 kg	22.5 cm		42.7

These Rubber also look interesting in terms of bounciness and other stats (less bouncy needs a little more brushing to activate the rubber?)
I also looked at Rakza 7 that would mean Rakza 7 is harder than G1 but with 0.8kg? Something it doesn't take a lot to activate the rubber? Before I am going to write too much here, I would like more clarification first.
4. My Trainingspartner from yesterday said he went from max (Vega Asia I believe ) back to 2.0mm and he said he has more fun playing now so he wouldnt recommend max on a rubber. And he is someone who plays with a lot of brushing when topspinning. Kind of manipulated me into not buying max now.

 

[Tembel]

Really interesting stats in the spreadsheet! Especially the catapult effect is really good the study.

Some number are a bit strange though. For instance:
- Rozena is Butterfly's hardest rubber
- Yasaka Rakza Z Extra hard being softer than regular Rakza Z
- Butterfly SuperAnti, which is super soft, by numbers it is by far the hardest rubber in the spreadsheet.

But maybe I am reading the numbers wrong.

 

[Lazer]

Feeling is of course something subjective. Nobody can now what you do feel when you flick a ball, but if the goal is to be able to use your current technique and power level over the table without overshooting that often, then i think you might do better with something that is noticeably slower when not fully activated.

Increasing the sponge thickness will not help in that regard and i think it is a shot into the dark to think that this might help your feeling when flicking or over the table game.

This will enable you to control the over the table shots better, since your arm power will not instantly shoot out rockets that pierce the wall of the gym.
There were already a few rubbers mentioned that. The biggest problem is that these rubbers will (even if they fix or help your flicking game) mandate that you adjust your topspin looping game a little. In best case you only adjust the racket angle when looping.

Rubbers that are slower than the G-1 in the over the table game are:
- Butterfly Glayer 09c
- Rakza Z
- Nittaku PK50 Sieger

You could try to have a look at this list:

Belagtest Anatomic Edge.xlsx

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

and check the "Katapult" column.
Interestingly enough this shows that even some "allegedly" toned down versions like MX-S vs MX-D are very close in how much the ball will bounce of your racked with the slightest of touches.

I would postpone the decision to change something until your current rubber is done and the season is over. That will give you enough time to test what fits your game

Don't know how to interpret this diagram...
Looking at Ternergy 05 for instance. Its one of the spiniest rubbers I know. But the friction is one of the lowest...
The catapult is one of the highest, this I believe but does this imply that catapult has a huge impact on spin???
I agree it has some impact but this shows its enormous... ???

The catapult on such low impact may be of less importance. There should be some numbers for a little higher impact as well... And Tenergy 05 extremely low friction even compared to other Tenergies, is this an anomaly or a measurement errror?

Cheers
L-zr