Training top spin by the return board

says MIA
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Cool Deal - If you can find HDF, I think you'll be much happier. HDF is normally about 25% more dense than MDF and a whole lot less sensitive to moisture, etc (say if the table is in your garage). High density plywood can work ok, but higher end plys like baltic birch are very nice and also tend not to warp on you over time.

Good luck with your build!

Hi Richard,

First of all thank you for your products, inspiration and posts. Furthermore, I think it's really cool that you encourage DIY's and provide advice for these projects.

I've gathered just about all the supplies I need to build my own returnboard a few months ago, similar to the one suds79 is describing (music stand base), but I haven't gotten around to building it and the only thing I'm missing is the wood. Considering your expertise and what you've already said on this thread, which type of wood and thickness provides the most quality and best bounce according to you? What's the best bang for your buck?

Best, - Thomas
 
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Hi Thomas,

We settled on a nice 1/2 inch thick european baltic birch that has at least 10 plys and polyurethane coating. In the states we source it through a panel processing firm that uses them for high end cabinets. We tried a lot of different materials and found this to be the best in terms of both aesthetic and performance. Since the boards are passive, a less dense material will cause you to have to hit harder to get good returns, and if you go too thin, you also have more issues with warping, etc.

Our older design used HDF which is good density for the weight and it worked well. It and MDF really need some kind of edge banding else the corners and edges do poorly over time with wear.

All that said, it may come down to what is available to you locally. Cheapest will likely just be plywood, but the surface finish may not be that great and you will get benefit from sanding, using wood filler, and then some kind of surface finish like the polyurethane.

Good luck and would love to see your board when it's done!
-Richard
 
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Never played against a return board, but after watching the videos, I am really very impressed. Earlier somehow I thought that it was only for some very basic low-speed close to the table hitting, but it seems you can do nearly everything with it (including footwork drill if you have 2 of them i guess).

Wanted to ask members who invested in such a board and have it for a while already if they are using it still? Or is it more of a one time nice to have thing?
 
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We have customers, club owners, etc. that contact us over long periods of time asking to replace rubber, making videos, sending us suggestions, etc. ..enough to let us know that many of them are using it for longer periods of time. At a local college, they use them a lot for warm ups before they get into more formalized training. I personally like them a lot for this as well as quick serving feedback - Once you have a rally going, it has a very natural feel and just helps keep things "fresh" between visits to the club, etc. Hope this helps!
-Richard
 
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I tried playing with a return board, and I didn't know how to adjust its angle. Here in this video, Ma Long and Fan Zhendong are practicing. I was wondering if I want to loop consistently like them, and with the power they hit the ball, what should be the angle of the return board approximately?

I tried closing the angle of the return board and made it around 50 to 45 degrees, and then I realized I couldn't generate enough amount of spin, and I had to lower my center of gravity too much. However, the retrunboard was not on the table; it was like 20 cm away from the table.
 
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The thing is that you have to be very consistent for it to work. I would set the angle for less topspin and give it 10 a 20 strokes and then one kill. The ball hitting the board but not coming back properly…

Cheers
L-zr
One thing I felt practicing with something like a 45-degree angled return board was that for the first shot I had to spin the ball with a more open-angled racket, but then I noticed if I hit the next shots with the racket facing all the way down (parallel to the floor) and hitting the very top of the ball, it kind of feels like I can do it consistently (just around 5 more shots). But I'm not sure if it is wrong to hit the very top of the ball for the returned shots.

I could do like 5 or so forehand loops with that kind of angle, but I could do zero backhand loops. I guess it tells me my backhand loops are more hitting the ball than spinning it.
 
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I've got a mini digital inclinometer by Allmeter, so my measurements are exact, with the table plane being at "0.00°" per definitionem. I could write novels about returnboards (and i did, on the geman folum). For the past weeks or months i left the angle at 63.00-65.00°, let's say ~64°, i.e. it is missing 26° to be perpendicular to the table. And i placed my universal board right at the far side (edge) of the table (0cm), i.e. the rubber touches the table edge. I am willing to claim that no other geman citizen has been spending more hours hitting the returnboard since xmas 2024 than me but that's off topique.

Anything lower angled, say 55°, gets into the super advanced category, because your shot must have high speed and high spin to clear the net. Very high speed AND very high spin, actually. With the returnboard, I mostly practice my backhand, and the 0cm/64°-combo allows me both to bh-loop against it and to bh-shoot against it (the latter of which is a special technique/shot not to be discussed here and not taught in courses/texts): if i bh-hit the ball at a low level, i choose to bh-loop it, and if i bh-hit it at a slightly higher level, then i am free to bh-loop it again or bh-shoot it, and ofc i try to bh-shoot it (because that's the new shot which i wanted to learn thru rbpon, and i did!). Bh-shooting is indeed the more fun shot.

The most important thing to know is: no matter how fast/hard AND how spinny AND how arched a topspin ball comes in, the returnboard is able to produce a rebound without error. There are only 2 essential settings, the distance from the net (in cm) and the angle (in °, measured from the horizontal not the vertical), while either is not entirely independent. Basically, the distance, in the end, only determines how much time the person gets between the shots. Nothing else. Whereas, the angle determines the (range of) rebound arch. In most/all youtube vids on returnboards you will witness angles much bigger than 64°, resulting in unrealistic high archs ("too easy shots for the person").

So the configuration procedure goes like this:

First, you need to determine which kind of hitting rhythm (frequency) you want to train with. Beginners want to have more time between shots, advanced users feel more comfortable at a natural high frequency. If you are advanced, typically you'd set the distance at 0cm not 15cm from the table edge.

Second, you need to determine at which height (height range) you expect the balls to come at you AND with which quality (speed AND spin) you wish to hit the ball, on average. For advanced users, setting the angle to 65.0° would be a good starting point. Now fh-loop hard/fast with high spin [if that's what you want to exercise then] against the 0cm/65°-combo and you will learn that the spinnier ones (or depending on the height of the rebound point :rolleyes:, if you "mishit" the ball) do get rebound into the far out, i.e. doht hit the player's table side. Then no problem, you would change only the angle (closing to say 62°) but not the distance.

Only in very extreme cases (i.e. super hard topspins at super high spins) would the 0cm distance setting not work. Then ofc one would increase the distance to 5cm, 10cm, or 15cm, and start over with the angle-finding procedure. The more one moves the returnboard away from the table edge, say 30cm, the more pointless the exercise becomes because the waiting time between the shots gets too long. Good for beginners, pointless for advanced users.

As opposed to those yt vids, doht accept balls which bounce high off your table side, i.e. clear the net with high clearance, these are unrealistic balls! Then simply close the board angle. Do it. Then if the new rebounding ball lands in the net, decrease the distance to the table edge (e.g. from 15cm to 5cm). As we can see, the distance and the angle are interdependent if our goal is to produce a low arched rebounding ball!, and yes, that should be imho our goal when configuring the returnboard setup.

And yes, if your found setting works well with your fast hard spinny fh-loop but doesn't work with your bh-loop (i.e. the rebounding ball doesn't clear the net), then it means that your bh-loop isn't en par. Guess why i almost exclusively train my backhand with the returnboard? 🥹

I am happy enough with the hardness power spin consistency speed quality of my best fh-loops (little room for improvement 🤥), and to me it's more fun to practice shots which lack hardness power spin consistency speed quality (like my bh-loop) and learn new basic shots thru the returnboard (like the bh-shooting, bh-smash, banana flick).

For the upcoming year i've got a list of further new shots which i want to learn and practice. So now i am switching to the Powerpong robot because those shots are too difficult to practice with a returnboard. For the time being i regard my two returnboards as retired.
 
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