TENERGY 05 RUBBER - 2.1/1.9 or 1.5?

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Is there a huge difference with the 05 rubber thickness? I feel the 2.1m that I using is a little too quick. I am tempted to try 1.7 or 1.9. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
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Sponge thickness would affect how easily the ball reaches the wood. Think of this scenario: A blade without a rubber and a blade with a rubber with any thickness. The naked blade would absorb less energy due to the hardness of the wood. The blade with a rubber would absorb more energy, thus resulting in a short bounce. So the thinner the rubber, the fastest the ball would be spit out of the blade.

Note that this is valid for Flat hitting only, when driving (using the topsheet) the pimples, surface and the sponge hardness act as a spring trying to catapult the ball out the rubber.

In conclusion, rubber thickness will behave differently when flat hitting or when performing spin shots. Basically, thin rubbers helps when blocking and thick rubber helps when looping.

This of course represents only my opinion and perspective. Hope I could help.
 
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My rule of thumb for inverted rubber is, per wing,

~ 1.0 mm for blocker,
~ 1.5 mm for chopper,
~ 2.0 mm for driver,
~ 2.5 mm for looper,

And average for combi play, e.g., - 2.3 mm for loop and drive. :)

And most non casual player wont sense the difference of less than 0.5 mm of sponge. :)

So,

I suggest you test the 1.7 mm first, to make the ten 05 more allrounder in play. :)
 
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My rule of thumb for inverted rubber is, per wing,

~ 1.0 mm for blocker,
~ 1.5 mm for chopper,
~ 2.0 mm for driver,
~ 2.5 mm for looper,

And average for combi play, e.g., - 2.3 mm for loop and drive. :)

And most non casual player wont sense the difference of less than 0.5 mm of sponge. :)

So,

I suggest you test the 1.7 mm first, to make the ten 05 more allrounder in play. :)

Thanks for this post, i always keep thinking what will different thickness of rubber will do in playing, so you gave an answer that i look for, but are you sure of that is accurate?

I keep block or chop with my Tenergy 2.1mm, so does that mean i must change it if i want to chop and block with it?

I bought Curl P4 at 1.0mm thickness, if you posted this before then i may go with 1.5mm instead if i want to chop more, blocking is not that main factor i want to think about, but i hope that thickness will give good combo between chop and block anyway.

I want to know if that thickness of rubber has to do with sound hitting the ball, because i tried someone racket for very short time say minute, and when i hit the ball with the racket i hear something like "Thunder" sound when hitting it, i feel power, so is that the blade or rubber or thickness of rubber?
 
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Thanks for this post, i always keep thinking what will different thickness of rubber will do in playing, so you gave an answer that i look for, but are you sure of that is accurate?

- more subjective rather than accurate, the number derived from my own experiences, and different rubber do behave differently at same sponge thickness, so on hand testing still needed, that why it called rule of thumb. :)

I keep block or chop with my Tenergy 2.1mm, so does that mean i must change it if i want to chop and block with it?

- I list the thickness from ease of use parameter, not effectiveness parameter. :)
- Tenergy 1.7 mm and 1.3 mm may chop and block easier that 2.1 mm, but doesn't means the chop and block more dangerous, so if you can control it, then no need for a change.
- If you do can chop with Tenergy Max, then You are in the same level as Joo. :)

I bought Curl P4 at 1.0mm thickness, if you posted this before then i may go with 1.5mm instead if i want to chop more, blocking is not that main factor i want to think about, but i hope that thickness will give good combo between chop and block anyway.

- I use different rule of thumb for pips,
Blocker 0.0 mm (ox)
Chopper 0.8 mm
Driver 1.7 mm
Looper 2.5 mm (but, who want to loop with pips anyway?)
Combi by average, like blocker chopper at 0.4 mm.
So yes, I vote P4 1.0 mm perfect for chopping

I want to know if that thickness of rubber has to do with sound hitting the ball, because i tried someone racket for very short time say minute, and when i hit the ball with the racket i hear something like "Thunder" sound when hitting it, i feel power, so is that the blade or rubber or thickness of rubber?

- that happen in my current combi, def alpha + hurricane 3 2.15 mm. It give loud tick when driving, especially when new.
My conjecture is, the topsheet / rubber act as a trampoline / drum percussion, because the blade so soft and flexible and wide, but the rubber and sponge so hard,
I have no evidence to back it, sorry.
 
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Thanks for this post, i always keep thinking what will different thickness of rubber will do in playing, so you gave an answer that i look for, but are you sure of that is accurate?

- more subjective rather than accurate, the number derived from my own experiences, and different rubber do behave differently at same sponge thickness, so on hand testing still needed, that why it called rule of thumb. :)

I keep block or chop with my Tenergy 2.1mm, so does that mean i must change it if i want to chop and block with it?

- I list the thickness from ease of use parameter, not effectiveness parameter. :)
- Tenergy 1.7 mm and 1.3 mm may chop and block easier that 2.1 mm, but doesn't means the chop and block more dangerous, so if you can control it, then no need for a change.
- If you do can chop with Tenergy Max, then You are in the same level as Joo. :)

I bought Curl P4 at 1.0mm thickness, if you posted this before then i may go with 1.5mm instead if i want to chop more, blocking is not that main factor i want to think about, but i hope that thickness will give good combo between chop and block anyway.

- I use different rule of thumb for pips,
Blocker 0.0 mm (ox)
Chopper 0.8 mm
Driver 1.7 mm
Looper 2.5 mm (but, who want to loop with pips anyway?)
Combi by average, like blocker chopper at 0.4 mm.
So yes, I vote P4 1.0 mm perfect for chopping

I want to know if that thickness of rubber has to do with sound hitting the ball, because i tried someone racket for very short time say minute, and when i hit the ball with the racket i hear something like "Thunder" sound when hitting it, i feel power, so is that the blade or rubber or thickness of rubber?

- that happen in my current combi, def alpha + hurricane 3 2.15 mm. It give loud tick when driving, especially when new.
My conjecture is, the topsheet / rubber act as a trampoline / drum percussion, because the blade so soft and flexible and wide, but the rubber and sponge so hard,
I have no evidence to back it, sorry.

Nice reply, and this is why i like to discuss a lot when someone reply to me to correct me or give me more details or explain something.

Well, i am still waiting that P4 to show up and i will use it, it will be on my BTY Def III, and i hope this blade will be a good one as i didn't see much reviews about it as well, but it is what i found in the local store and i asked about a defensive blade, there is also Yasaka model i don't know, but i decided i will go with Butterfly instead even it is the only model available there in the store.

Chopping is not that difficult actually, but it is about how to chop and when to chop, sometimes i chop with best rubber of chopping and i am out of control, and when i try to chop with fast rubber i could manage to do it properly, as you said, it is not about thickness, but i try to use the rubbers for what they are made of, if speed then speed, if spin or chop then chop, i can block with all blades even blade without rubbers, but the degree or angle of block is what i need to learn to understand and control so i can do it better way, i really like Samsonov style of blocking, but i don't know if he is doing that because of experience and top level or because of the racket he is using, and Joo is a great chopper but he is offensive as well when he get the chance, does that means he is using fast blade/rubber to chop and when he can attack he attack?

I was thinking to get Adidas rubber to use on that Def blade for my FH, but the coach told he he didn't see it available from the site he will order from, so i changed or told him to get me Andro Rasant Grip [i hope he doesn't bring or by mistake getting Powergrip], and he told me to go with Max thickness, he prefer to go with max thickness always if offensive and attack, and he said if i will go with defensive and chop then i should go thinner, but, with different thickness, will this affect the distance i should play from the table too? like if i will chop with say 0.8-1.0mm should i be close the table? if i go thicker should i go far from the table?
 
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Chopping is not that difficult actually, but it is about how to chop and when to chop, sometimes i chop with best rubber of chopping and i am out of control, and when i try to chop with fast rubber i could manage to do it properly, as you said, it is not about thickness, but i try to use the rubbers for what they are made of, if speed then speed, if spin or chop then chop, i can block with all blades even blade without rubbers, but the degree or angle of block is what i need to learn to understand and control so i can do it better way, i really like Samsonov style of blocking, but i don't know if he is doing that because of experience and top level or because of the racket he is using, and Joo is a great chopper but he is offensive as well when he get the chance, does that means he is using fast blade/rubber to chop and when he can attack he attack?

- For me, Joo is an anomaly. Tenergy 64 supposedly a driver rubber, and many of my friends here agree that Joo blade is a blocker blade, not chopper blade.
- but yes, chopping with fast combi, while difficult, the return can be dangerous due to flat and fast balls.
- and his forehand drive and loop is among the biggest in the game. :)

I was thinking to get Adidas rubber to use on that Def blade for my FH, but the coach told he he didn't see it available from the site he will order from, so i changed or told him to get me Andro Rasant Grip [i hope he doesn't bring or by mistake getting Powergrip], and he told me to go with Max thickness, he prefer to go with max thickness always if offensive and attack, and he said if i will go with defensive and chop then i should go thinner, but, with different thickness, will this affect the distance i should play from the table too? like if i will chop with say 0.8-1.0mm should i be close the table? if i go thicker should i go far from the table?

- Yes and no. The relationship is not linear, and not exact either.
While your answer generally right, your distance from table also dictated by the opponent stroke, the more powerful and fast His drive and loop is, the further you will find yourself from the table.

the best distance for you is the distance that you confident that all ball land on the table, and you can see and catch all the ball.

For me, around 2 to 3 dash from the table, no matter what equipment I am using. :)
 
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Chopping is not that difficult actually, but it is about how to chop and when to chop, sometimes i chop with best rubber of chopping and i am out of control, and when i try to chop with fast rubber i could manage to do it properly, as you said, it is not about thickness, but i try to use the rubbers for what they are made of, if speed then speed, if spin or chop then chop, i can block with all blades even blade without rubbers, but the degree or angle of block is what i need to learn to understand and control so i can do it better way, i really like Samsonov style of blocking, but i don't know if he is doing that because of experience and top level or because of the racket he is using, and Joo is a great chopper but he is offensive as well when he get the chance, does that means he is using fast blade/rubber to chop and when he can attack he attack?

- For me, Joo is an anomaly. Tenergy 64 supposedly a driver rubber, and many of my friends here agree that Joo blade is a blocker blade, not chopper blade.
- but yes, chopping with fast combi, while difficult, the return can be dangerous due to flat and fast balls.
- and his forehand drive and loop is among the biggest in the game. :)

I was thinking to get Adidas rubber to use on that Def blade for my FH, but the coach told he he didn't see it available from the site he will order from, so i changed or told him to get me Andro Rasant Grip [i hope he doesn't bring or by mistake getting Powergrip], and he told me to go with Max thickness, he prefer to go with max thickness always if offensive and attack, and he said if i will go with defensive and chop then i should go thinner, but, with different thickness, will this affect the distance i should play from the table too? like if i will chop with say 0.8-1.0mm should i be close the table? if i go thicker should i go far from the table?

- Yes and no. The relationship is not linear, and not exact either.
While your answer generally right, your distance from table also dictated by the opponent stroke, the more powerful and fast His drive and loop is, the further you will find yourself from the table.

the best distance for you is the distance that you confident that all ball land on the table, and you can see and catch all the ball.

For me, around 2 to 3 dash from the table, no matter what equipment I am using. :)

Actually, i use Tenergy 64 for BH and i chop this side more than my FH, and on FH there is Tenergy 05FX, to me, Tenergy 05FX is slightly better to chop than Tenergy 64 from what i do, and for attack, Tenergy 64 wins all down for me, but i randomly attack using my BH anyway, and i play with different styles players, there are 2 or 3 i played with and they all the time play just close to the table and chop/block all the time, 2 of them are using pimps out rubber on one side.

Today i will go there and play some games and i will test my Chinese blade+rubbers from a recommendation in the past, last time i tested for short time i felt it is slow and the control is not that great as i can with my BTY racket, so maybe i better use it for close to the table to block most of the time, it is not powerful hit unless i hit very strong and i don't like that, BTY racket i hit gentle and it go fast, so maybe that Chinese racket will be better for blocker and slowing the fast attack coming to me, i will give it a try today and see [if i play].
 
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Thanks for all your comments on my original question.

It looks like I will have to get the wallet out and experiment.
 
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I strongly advise against using 2.1. It's too fast to control on any blade and best reserved for top players. 1.9 on a boll spirit blade is ideal for my all-round attacking play personally. I can't comment on 1.7 as I've never used it.
 
For flat hitting, the less tickness means more speed. For topspins, the more tickness means more speed.
For touch play, short game, the less tickness means the more control, the more tickness means more bounce and less control.
For passive play versus incomming spin (blocks for example), the more tickness means more sensitivity to incomming spin.

Appart from flat hitting, the more tickness means less control and more speed, more bounce, more sensitivity to incomming spin.

Maybe you don't use topspins and this is why your coach says that, I hardly belieave a TT coach doesn't know that ticker sponge means more speed and less control for about anything but flat hitting. Do you use topspin Tareq ?

I'm speaking here for regular offensive backsides, not for long pips, short pips, medium pips and special backsides with absorbing sponge.

And last but not the least : more tickness means less feeling, less feedback.
 
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For flat hitting, the less tickness means more speed. For topspins, the more tickness means more speed.
For touch play, short game, the less tickness means the more control, the more tickness means more bounce and less control.
For passive play versus incomming spin (blocks for example), the more tickness means more sensitivity to incomming spin.

Appart from flat hitting, the more tickness means less control and more speed, more bounce, more sensitivity to incomming spin.

Maybe you don't use topspins and this is why your coach says that, I hardly belieave a TT coach doesn't know that ticker sponge means more speed and less control for about anything but flat hitting. Do you use topspin Tareq ?

I'm speaking here for regular offensive backsides, not for long pips, short pips, medium pips and special backsides with absorbing sponge.

And last but not the least : more tickness means less feeling, less feedback.

I see, so this is how it is about thickness for different strokes.

Well, i still don't know what is topspin, but sounds i don't use it, my style is mostly blocking/chopping, 3rd ball attack, flicks, i am not a gay with many rallies or loops or topspins, most of my games is closer to the table, only attackers or very offensive players forcing me to play off or further from the table due to their topspins and long shots.

That is why with my rubbers i think maximum i don't get that effects i had when i tested others blades, not sure if it was rubbers thickness or their blades, but 3 blades and one more of mine i tested so far all giving me some kind of vibration feeling, 2 rackets i tested i have that feeling that i use only a blade or a wood because the ball coming out like a bullet and the sound is loud, while with all my 4 rackets i am using none giving me this thing, one racket i tested of that effect the coach said that it is sanded or hard without vibration so that i felt like it was a rocket launcher, but is that true or he forgot about the sponge too?
 
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