Is the hurricane 3 neo still worth it after tack reduction?

[GOAT 🐐]

I prefer D09c as I just switched from H3N BS which I‘ve been using for 3 years. I found it too slow and thus the quality and pressure to opponents is much less than with 09c. 09c has more speed and arc and thus at lower powers you get better quality shot.

 

[Julzig]

you are like asking, I'm going to buy a Telsa, but I have no time to wait for it to charge up.

if you not going to boost, then buy something else.

A simple no, or at least some reasons why not would have been nice.
Still thanks I guess, will keep my distance, same for Tesla

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

A simple no, or at least some reasons why not would have been nice.
Still thanks I guess, will keep my distance, same for Tesla

well, if you didn't say you were lazy, then maybe I would just say a simple no.

if you are lazy, you shouldn't even use chinese rubbers in the first place, since it requires some effort, before play and during play, but then once you do the effort, the rubber is the best in the world by a mile.
but if you only looking to use half the product, then the best is to look esn or butterfly rubbers

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

I know, and I do boost, too. But if I absolutely had to buy something H3, and absolutely was forbidden to use booster, that's what I would do.

I guess buying 37 deg unboost is the only thing close to sanity
but even 37 deg, we boost

 

[JJ Ng]

If you want to use H3, then get the provincial blue sponge. Just my personal opinion. I feel that the blue sponge top sheet is slightly tackier than orange sponge top sheet. Don't ask me why. It is one of the reason I have switched from orange sponge to blue sponge for that little extra tackiness.

As for H3 replacement, I have tried a lot. I feel that Dignics 09c is basically H3 blue sponge well boosted. I played with Dignics 09c for a week on my forehand side. I like it. Dignics 09c is like H3 blue sponge well boosted but with a bit more catapult. So my forehand could adapt to both pretty well. However, I missed the good short game that H3 blue sponge offers so I am back to H3. I will circle back to Dignics 09c another time.

Other Chinese rubbers that are eerily similar to H3 blue sponge is Loki Arthur China, Rxton 9 and Sanwei Target National. Out of those four, Sanwei Target National is the most sticky. The stickiness between H3 blue sponge, LAC and Rxton 9 are all about the same.

Sanwei Target National just needs to be boosted heavy to become alive. I put three layers of boosters on H3, LAC and Rxton 9. But for Sanwei Target National I need to apply four layers for it to come alive.

Those are all good options.

I have tried Big Dipper, Mercury II, Rxton 5, etc. etc. None of them come close to the feel of H3 blue sponge.

For practice and not serious club matches, I have used LAC, Rxton 9 and STN. When I EJ a lot, I cannot afford to put H3 blue sponge on all those blades so I would cheat and put LAC, Rxton 9 or STN on those blades. But once I decide on a blade, I would slap on a new sheet of H3 and go from there. And for tournament play, yes, I only trust H3 blue sponge. It is quite special.

 

[Tyce]

I guess buying 37 deg unboost is the only thing close to sanity
but even 37 deg, we boost

I have tried 37d on FH but it's just not the same experience. The whole thing feels much softer even before boosting, better for BH not for FH

 

[Angerer]

Im have two questions about H3.
First if I want to just try it should I go with standard orange neo for a couple of bucks, or save for a provincial blue?
Secondly can they be played without booster, if I choose a softer sponge?

I would like to try H3 for my FH, but I always read that everyone boosts it and I am too lazy and too much of a cheapskate for that

1) Blue and orange are vastly different. Blue sponge is faster, harder and has lower/longer trajectory. Orange is slower, softer and has higher/shorter arc. Orange is better for pure spin (and it's easy to get), has no flat hitting or block. Blue is more about combination of speed and spin (spin is a bit harder to get than from orange, but the max potential is higher), has somewhat decent flat hitting and block.
2) I would never recommend playing H3 without a booster. Softer versions are just mushy and they negate the whole point of playing H3 in the first place. H37-38 are faster out of the box, but the boosted 39-40-41 are clicky cannons that shoot rockets.

 

[ttarc]

TableTennis11 did a comparison between different H3Ns (commercial OS, provincial OS and BS and national OS) with Sergei Petrov and Daniel Kosiba 1) among others and found not that many or large differences.

1) silver medal in mixed doubles at the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2009_World_Junior_Table_Tennis_Championships beating Lin Gaoyuan and Chen Meng in the semi final https://tabletennis-reference.com/matches/result/294/1988

 

[Julzig]

well, if you didn't say you were lazy, then maybe I would just say a simple no.

if you are lazy, you shouldn't even use chinese rubbers in the first place, since it requires some effort, before play and during play, but then once you do the effort, the rubber is the best in the world by a mile.
but if you only looking to use half the product, then the best is to look esn or butterfly rubbers

Lazy was more so meant for applying booster regularly, thank you this is more informative

 

[Jslick89]

Lazy was more so meant for applying booster regularly, thank you this is more informative

It's actually pretty easy to boost and really doesn't much actual time. more like waiting but the actual process itself is quick. I think everyone should try a boosted hurricane rubber at least once.

 

[AdamH]

I play double H3N 3-50 Soft 35 degree on a 15 year old 5-play Allround Appelgren V2 Senso.

I am weak in my BH wrist, 175 cm. However I am fast and technical with a great sens.

The thing is I get pissed is the out of the box tackyness. It is insanely damped and sticky 2 first hours. The bounce is 2 and dead and I love it.

However after 2 seassions I am up 6-8 bounces going from 30 cm passiv block inside on medium hard return to 30 outside which is a 60 cm difference.

Bought BF tacky plastic and used that as an experiment to see how long the cover could keep the tacky or stickyness is probably more accurate.

Actually didn't touch the surface and probably had a fair result in 3 weeks. With a bounce of 3-4 for 1.5 ish hours and up towards 6 in the end.

My first pair I started using Donic cleaner but notice it removed the sticky layer which was extremly stupid. Also without tacky plastic and no cleaning after 2-3 sessions I was playing a tournament as prior stated the passive block distance was further me ending in losing not knowing why.

So therefor when I bought a new pair and put it on my 15 year old blade which have become slower and lost 8-13 grams I thought I could get a short block range.

I love the idea to play in depth on the table and not just the further back part.

The foam I just started recently use a little the other day using a standard TT sponge to clean with. I feel like after 2 times I think the Sponge rubs a bit of the sticky layer. Too much cleaning chemicals even thought it has a residue that creates a thinn layer of tackyness I would see myself applying it until a spot has lost its stickyness.

Read a review about that aswell where someone stated that the tackyness stayed for longer on the outside and the center not as much. I can vouch a bit for that.

Now playing with 35 degree on a soft wood is slow but that is my prefer playstyle. Only downside I have with this version is that this rubber really send the ball straight when blocking if you dont add more grip. It dies a bit.

Since I am very fast with my body I am able to smash through the racket. And yes there is a max speed to it. But the best part is that if you are good you don't need speed to win. With this slow rubber most people lose because they haven't trained moving so much in depth and you can create the shortest balls possible. Creates a insane dilemma for my opponents. Best part is hitting closer to the net on the long side with topspin / sidespin and with the slow and high arch even people above 180 struggle to reach.

Downside is that it is so slow and if you are 175 cm with a ill trained wrist you need to replace the thumb a bit on the handle just little so you still can shift to your FH. This is needed as I said if you are a smaler, weaker arm wrist.

So it is finding where the line between open and closed is because this combo won't grab the ball mitt racket. I am to weak to generate straight push solo, need to rely on my opponent to add a surten force/speed.

I have read countless stories reviews about H3N and it is hard to decide next step.

The only reason why I love playing this rubber noone else seems to play with, is the ability to loop further under the table. It is just so much fun.

Even if it doesn't generate much more and can even give your opponent more time it is still worth it.

Just sad that the stickyness vanish so quickly. And I don't want to cheat. But I would like to find a rubber that is even softer, a bit more grip (tenso) and has a sticky surface.

First set when coming back in Nov was Dragon Grip 55. I could not even smash through much less loop through the rubber and was marketed as tacky and isn't sticky at all. Even worse then my current H3N on shortplay.

Second was Rakza 7 Soft. Loved it but had 2 downsides. Bouncy. Could not generate a defensive slash easy enough for it to be worth it and was not sticky.

Now being on H3N 2.1 (2.15). The idea was getting a 2.2 or 2.15 if the marketed 2.1 wasn't a 2.15. For my style with keeping the damp for defensive passive blocks there are some suggestions.

One thing I will try is rip the first H3N, a rubber usually shrinks. I saved a little on the edges. Thought it might help me get even softer, damp and grip if reapplied. That is one theory I want to try.

Second was another blade or perhaps add more glue, regular.

But there has not been conclusive information about H3N in modern time there would be both a 2.15 and 2.2 version.

Also weight is a issue for me a bit. 15 years ago I was playing with a total weight if 142-144 grams.

Coming back I was initially set on 184 grams, then down on around 172-174 before a short visit on 162 g with the Rakzas.

As 175 cm, weaker, BH flick/smashes higher is a nuances. So having a lighter blade really determine if you gonna actually slice or flick. Now I am heavily FH dependent.

Positive for me my blade comes in junior sized, not the hollowed out version.

Got a contact who had a connection in Germany who could order these specialsized ones.

While other people choose Cybershape I downsize before my muscles are built up.

If I can get down on 155 it will be sweet as hell. I just have an insanely good feel for what to expect even tho a junior sized has a little less blade.

Also having smaler hands, both in length and thickness is a issue.

You can't really play some concave blades even if you wanted to because replacing shifting grip you loose to much time.

This is were I was hoping the junior blades also were specially manifactured but it seems not. Not even Donic support never got this question for 20 years much less this blade.

I also stated that the H3N does add a bounce as tensor which I wish it would, just a little bit because a H3N should not demand that much to grip and ad a just a tinsey curve.

Anyone reaching out from longside block for getting the ball in knows the struggle if you don't play angled or microflick. This might not be a issue boosted, hence why boosted.

Also the reason why I am looking into the 37 degree. However inconclusive data once again regarding the tackyness/stickyness between the regular(Soft) if the regular is the same as the Soft 37 version as to the Neo.

Yes, I could use just a pinch more speed for the short play. But I love slice smashing far from table, hence being an true allround player.

My friend who boost gonna boost my first set. I atleast want to try it and see the difference but I prefer finding a even better rubber for my liking which doesn't seem to exist. And no there isn't that much rubber out there when you have looked around.

I don't like 09c it is to stiff. A BS 41 prov, boosted was more soft but still to low throwangel and to damp feeling.

So is there a 2.1, 2.15 and 2.2 version H3N?

It doesn't seem the other Rakza versions is soft enough even thought they have added sticky more or less than the soft.

And no I will never play pimps or Anti. I just love playing the whole table at all times and just would like more dynamic between more passive damp blocking, to more grip with just a tinsey bit more jump.

I might pick up the defensive blades and mod the blades if I can't work or find a rubber that last 2 months. Heard about rejuvinator, baby oil even whale sperm lol. F weird.

I don't want to buy new rubber every month but every two month works.

❤️ Sorry for the long text but hopefully someone will find it useful.

/Cheers

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

It's actually pretty easy to boost and really doesn't much actual time. more like waiting but the actual process itself is quick. I think everyone should try a boosted hurricane rubber at least once.

correct

I think if anyone who knows how to glue rubbers... boosting is really just another layer of "glue" on that sponge really.

 

[NextLevel]

I know, and I do boost, too. But if I absolutely had to buy something H3, and absolutely was forbidden to use booster, that's what I would do.

H3 without booster isn't great but it is playable.

 

[Tyce]

H3 without booster isn't great but it is playable.

On a slower 5ply not really... But if you back it up with a strong blade it's relatively playable.

 

[Yurifi]

oh wow, you bunch of cheaters, aren't you? 🙊

okey, joke aside, real question:

why do you like playing with H3? I played table tennis. for real. professionally, albeit 20 years ago. but even back then I gave Chinese rubber a try and after a couple of practice sessions a hard pass. yes, I am lazy, and with Chinese rubber, you have to work your ass off to make it work. and I opted for good old softer Butterfly and Yasaka rubbers. people had problems blocking my spins if I was playing with Chinese rubber or any other "normal" rubber, and yes, with Chinese rubber my spin was even more nasty, but other parts of the play were ... better with softer rubber. maybe that's just me and my gameplay style ...

after getting back into table tennis, guess what I did - got Chinese rubber, if things changed, and they didn't. you still have to put extreme effort into it ... I presume not all of you are technically advanced players - nothing wrong with it, I am getting beat by many players that have no idea about proper table tennis technique and that doesn't make them a bad table tennis player, not at all, don't get me wrong, but for instance, there is this player in our club - he insists that playing with H3 makes his topspins much better and harder to return, but puts so many balls into the net due to lack of proper stroke. so now he started playing with Tenergy05 (that's what he had at home, he says) and he is actually playing better.

again - table tennis is very much like photography - one will look at photograph and say "delete it" and someone else will say "can you frame it for me". I can't play with hard(er) rubbers (I tried, trust me), even though modern table tennis is moving into hard(er) rubbers, at least that is the trend now.

so, why playing with a demanding Chinese rubber like H3 is?

 

[_ak]

On a slower 5ply not really... But if you back it up with a strong blade it's relatively playable.

I am still wondering what do you do with your backhand then? As fast blades enough to activate H3 also add a kick on BH side as well, which is not always desirable.

Could be an option for another tacky rubber on BH, whereas mixing it with eurojap tensor remains a challenge (to me)

 

[Tyce]

I am still wondering what do you do with your backhand then? As fast blades enough to activate H3 also add a kick on BH side as well, which is not always desirable.

Could be an option for another tacky rubber on BH, whereas mixing it with eurojap tensor remains a challenge (to me)

If you really really don't want to boost, you could try H3-50 or H8-80 maybe (if you want to stay in DHS)
I've played non tacky BH until now but just stuck a H3 37 on it, lightly boosted.

You can also opt for slower Eurojaps, so a Rozena/Glayzer instead of a Dignics/Tenergy but that does decrease quality a bit.

It's all about what you want to compromise on

 

[_ak]

If you really really don't want to boost, you could try H3-50 or H8-80 maybe (if you want to stay in DHS)
I've played non tacky BH until now but just stuck a H3 37 on it, lightly boosted.

You can also opt for slower Eurojaps, so a Rozena/Glayzer instead of a Dignics/Tenergy but that does decrease quality a bit.

It's all about what you want to compromise on

I personally OK with light boosting. As a lefthander I often play BH against FH and I found that I handle faster stiffer blades on FH pretty well, however on BH it's a disaster. I like R7 on a flexier blade but not on stiffer. C-1 is controllable but quite tame. Glayzer (the regular one) has a higher potential than R7 but requires a harder hit and less forgiving, H8-80 experience was similar. Good when you hit hard but difficult on light strokes.

But yeah, I understood why would one put a softer hurricane on BH.

 

[Jslick89]

oh wow, you bunch of cheaters, aren't you? 🙊

okey, joke aside, real question:

why do you like playing with H3? I played table tennis. for real. professionally, albeit 20 years ago. but even back then I gave Chinese rubber a try and after a couple of practice sessions a hard pass. yes, I am lazy, and with Chinese rubber, you have to work your ass off to make it work. and I opted for good old softer Butterfly and Yasaka rubbers. people had problems blocking my spins if I was playing with Chinese rubber or any other "normal" rubber, and yes, with Chinese rubber my spin was even more nasty, but other parts of the play were ... better with softer rubber. maybe that's just me and my gameplay style ...

after getting back into table tennis, guess what I did - got Chinese rubber, if things changed, and they didn't. you still have to put extreme effort into it ... I presume not all of you are technically advanced players - nothing wrong with it, I am getting beat by many players that have no idea about proper table tennis technique and that doesn't make them a bad table tennis player, not at all, don't get me wrong, but for instance, there is this player in our club - he insists that playing with H3 makes his topspins much better and harder to return, but puts so many balls into the net due to lack of proper stroke. so now he started playing with Tenergy05 (that's what he had at home, he says) and he is actually playing better.

again - table tennis is very much like photography - one will look at photograph and say "delete it" and someone else will say "can you frame it for me". I can't play with hard(er) rubbers (I tried, trust me), even though modern table tennis is moving into hard(er) rubbers, at least that is the trend now.

so, why playing with a demanding Chinese rubber like H3 is?

I used tenergy 05 for almost 2 years and i switched to H3. chinese rubber is way more fun.

 

[Yurifi]

I used tenergy 05 for almost 2 years and i switched to H3. chinese rubber is way more fun.

why? can you explain? genuinely asking.