Throw angle is not a rubber property!

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Here's a controversial statement. Throw angle is not a rubber property!

Let me tell you why "throw angle" is one of the most useless things to talk about in table tennis rubbers.

Part 1: It's not the rubber, it's you.

Almost every single post that contains the words "throw angle" is someone talking about not clearing the net on their loops, and blaming their rubber for it. Simultaneously, hundreds of players around the globe are using the exact same rubber and looping the ball just fine. It must be the rubber's fault, right? No. It's you.
Not saying you're bad (you might be, but I honestly can't tell from here) but what I am saying is that if you aren't clearing the net, you aren't doing it correctly.
Think about it, if any popular rubber actually had problems clearing the net, why would it be popular?

A staple skill of any half decent table tennis player is the ability to quickly adjust to changing circumstances. You HAVE to be able to change up your stroke between looping a backspin ball, dead ball, topspin ball, all coming at different speeds and angles. Likewise, it is an essential skill to adjust to the equipment you are playing with. Changing equipment often does not help with that, we are all familiar with the downsides of EJing. But blaming the equipment is just as unhelpful, as it shifts the requirement for action away from you. Thing is, your rubber isn't going to change, and changing rubber isn't going to fix it. Even if you do find a rubber with properties that help cover up the current issue, the change WILL result in other issues popping up elsewhere. In this case usually: you find a rubber that clears the net easier, only to find out it's too hard to generate power with it, it sucks at drives, it's too spin sensitive for the short game...

Part 2: Derived properties are simply inaccurate.

I have been reading DCRainmaker's excellent in-depth reviews of sports electronics during my running years, and one very important thing that it has taught me is how a LOT of the stats reported by sports watches are simply derived estimates based on algorithms. You can't actually measure steps (made by your feet) with a device mounted on your wrist. You can't measure breathing, vertical oscillation, step length, yet many devices display this stuff anyway.
Similarly, a rubber has hardness (topsheet and sponge), pimple geometry, elasticity (topsheet and sponge) and a level of grip. And that's it. Even the level of grip is already borderline inaccurate, because there's not a uniform way of measuring it as a property.
Your precious "throw angle" is a result of these basic properties, combined with the vectors of both the incoming ball and your swing. See where this is going? Throw angle is a combination of the ball, your bat and your technique.

Part 3: How to adjust.

If you made it to this point, and haven't closed this tab in a fuming rage to still get a different rubber, kudos.
What usually happens if someone reports that their "throw angle" is too low is one (or more) of these things:

You don't make your loop stroke go from low to high.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net and doesn't really spin. Also, it never really goes above the net at any point in its trajectory OR it goes straight from higher to lower, not making a bit of an arc.
Fix: work on your loop basics. One great exercise is to roll the ball towards you and when it reaches your end of the table, lift it over the net using your rubber's GRIP (not hitting it upwards with an open bat).

You don't accelerate through the contact point.
Causes: tension in the arms, hands, shoulders, and/or core can make acceleration hard. So does insecurity, and sometimes it's just about understanding the mechanics of what you're trying to do.
Symptoms: the ball plops/shoots off your bat and it feels like you have zero control. Your stroke is highly sensitive to incoming spin and it feels impossible to overcome that.
Fix: Various methods can be used to visualize the problem. Hitting the ball against a wall or just plain upwards with a tense arm vs a whip motion can help to illustrate that the whip put a lot more power and spin onto the ball. Understanding that control lies in the ability to overcome the opponent's spin by putting on your own, not by (hopefully) anticipating the right spin on the ball and sticking your bat out to meet it. Accentuate the need to relax between shots, drop your arms completely in practice if you need to. Make it a challenge to start moving your arm as late as possible so you HAVE to accelerate.

Your bat angle is too closed.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net with spin alright, the ball might even spin around on the table for quite a bit. Sometimes the ball will skid and just plop off your bat falling almost straight down.
Fix: build up your topspin up from drive. Try to adjust as little as possible. Start slightly lower, end slightly higher and rather than adjusting your bat angle, focus on lifting the ball with the rubber. If you overshoot, just turn down the pace on the practice and try again. Stay loose and relaxed, because tense contact also leads to overshooting.

You loop the wrong balls.
Symptoms: the ball doesn't even make it to the net before hitting the table, despite your best efforts to put out a decent loop.
Fix: well this is a simple one and complicated at the same time. Bottom line, your looping skill level is not enough to overcome the ball you were given. You will need to get better at all the points mentioned above if you want to stand a chance at looping these balls. In the meantime, work on your pushing and anticipation, and loop the balls that are easier to loop.

Part 4: The long game.

Table tennis is hard to learn. Looping a backspin ball already is an advanced technique in the sense that you need to have good confidence in your basics. You need to be able to accelerate, grip the ball with your rubber, lift it, apply spin, judge the amount of force you have to put on it to get it over the net, all while staying relaxed enough to make soft, spinny, grippy contact as to not overshoot the table. This isn't something you will master in your first year of table tennis, it's something that people who have played for DECADES are still struggling with.

There is no equipment shortcut to fix this. Only practice.

In today's age of extremely abundant information, it's easy to forget those basics, but you have to remain curious and critical if your goal is to succeed at table tennis.

Keep thinking for yourself: If someone praises a rubber for its amazing properties in looping the ball over the net, what is their context?

Are they any good at all? If this is a beginner, they might have a wildly different technique and background from you. Also, good chance they won't be aware, or are not showing, the holes that changing to this rubber has opened in other areas of their game.
How often do they practice, and under what kind of guidance? The further away this is from your situation, the less relevant their information is for you.
What are they not showing you? Did they get any kind of compensation for their review? And this is not limited to the manufacturers, could be resellers, or even a coach or teammate giving the rubber in exchange for the promise of a review video. There doesn't even need to be ill or commercial intent. Are they actually still playing with it a few months later?
Don't confuse trusting the information of dozens of internet strangers with trusting yourself. No words or videos will convey how a rubber feels in your hands, on your bat, in your playing venue.
Who do you trust? Start with yourself and work outwards only when really necessary. In case of conflicting information, put your trust in the source closest to you.
- yourself, your feeling.
- your coach or other experienced real life players
- an external, real life, coach
- club mates with a bit of a level
If you don't have access to ANY of these (besides yourself, obviously), ask yourself the brutally honest question if table tennis is worth investing in at all in your current situation. You simply can't get to a decent level of table tennis by following online courses and playing on the break room table with a couple of friends. Just like you will never be a football star if you only play in the back alley and never make it to a club. So adjust your expectations if that's your situation and treat it like a casual game. Still want to throw money at equipment? I'm not your accountant. Just be aware that it's not going to fix anything for you.

Getting an initial feeling for different equipment usually comes pretty fast, in a matter of hours you will be able to use most rubbers up to 70-80% as well as you were using your previous one. The finesse however comes over the course of months, or even years. For blades it's more like weeks for that first 70-80% proficiency and years for the finesse. Even national level players will train with a different blade for at least half a year before using it in important matches.
If equipment feels bad, you can usually pick up on that within a week or so. You'll notice you're not adjusting to it well. Once you're past that first hurdle and start experiencing new problems, it's just not the equipment. So adjust, play the long game. If your equipment wears out and you still don't like the adjustment you have to make to use it, just go back to your previous rubber.

Part 5: Bottom line.

Changing equipment is only worth it if the person guiding your progress answers an explicit yes when you ask them if you need a change. If they do, they will also be able to indicate the direction of change you need to be making (usually slower, softer) and the more specific you are in your likes and dislikes (let them play with your bat, too) the more accurate advice they will be able to give.
Any half decent table tennis store will be able to present you with another brand's analog to the brand you are currently using or the brand you are advised but aren't fond of. A question like "My coach advised Rakza 7 but I prefer Andro rubbers, what should I get from Andro that matches that?" is a perfectly sensible thing to ask.
Bear in mind that some coaches will really appreciate if you stick to their specific advice both for the intent it shows, and in making it easier for them to understand your equipment. Other coaches (like my club's) are pretty much indifferent to what you use as long as it's in a bit of a sensible range.

Regardless of the country and its general level, any and all "medium" rubber (medium hardness, medium everything) will have the right properties to last you all the way up to levels where you are 99% certainly going to have other people around you, in real life, capable of giving you advice on (small) adjustments that might be helpful. All the Rakzas, Fastarcs, Rasanters, Rozenas, Glayzers, have what it takes to both get you to that level and support you each step along the way.
That level will most certainly not be one of the lower regional ones, or even higher regional ones. There are plenty of players on the national levels using non-flagship rubbers and non-flagship blades, while not lacking any spin, speed, power, control or whatever. Just look back at Dima beating Dan with a premade bat, or Anders Lind playing with his phone, if you need any confirmation: your equipment is just not the issue.
 
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Here's a controversial statement. Throw angle is not a rubber property!

And that directly implies, that in fact there is only 1 rubber, and ... are his ... ;-)

Similarly, a rubber has hardness (topsheet and sponge), pimple geometry, elasticity (topsheet and sponge) and a level of grip. And that's it. Even the level of grip is already borderline inaccurate, because there's not a uniform way of measuring it as a property.
Your precious "throw angle" is a result of these basic properties, combined with the vectors of both the incoming ball and your swing. See where this is going? Throw angle is a combination of the ball, your bat and your technique.

Jokes aside, I agree with that, and actually always saw it that way... It is a derived "thingee" (to not call it property), which depends on both the rubber and on your particular hit... However, I don't think it is a useless "thingee". Why? Because people tend to develop certain game-play, and they play that way - and certain rubbers is more suitable than another...

I give an example: A player plays mostly defensive (not only chopping, also getting everything back), and eventually he tends to try to quickly attack with a more forward motion... You will not explain that he could/should go more upwards... He does it the way he does, it's hard to change... And in this type of stroke, where the impact is rel. strong, a harder rubber is more suitable than softer rubber, and rubber with slightly higher pimples and lower pimple density is more suitable than rubber with very short pimples and higher density. Why? Because such rubber has higher *throw* (in this situation ofc) and he simply needs it, LOL... So, T05 Hard is "better" in this case than MX-P or MX-D or Rakza X, for example.
 
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I think that throw arc definitely can be impactful but I believe that if you can loop 80-90% of training balls on with one rubber you can get at least 70-80% with nearly any other rubber with a little bit of practice. How the ball goes on will feel and look different, the feeling of contacting the ball will feel different too but on a purely spinning the ball on basis if you know how to contact the ball, use your wrist and body well I agree that the rubber will make little difference. The key difference for me is, have you learnt the skill of looping backspin? If yes then changing rubbers can fine-tune how your loop acts, if no then you just have to keep chipping away, learning table tennis skills are hard and there are no cheat codes, that's what in part makes this sport so rewarding!
 
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Everything you are saying is accurate but it doesn't contradict the statement that throw angle/trajectory is most definitely a rubber property. Nobody has ever used Dignics 09c and thought that it was a low throw rubber. But yes, the variations in trajectory of a rubber are not the main reason that any competent player will miss the ball and it is almost never something that is unconquerable.
 
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Of course throw angle exists. I know it form experience. Just because multiple variables influence it, doesn't mean its not real. By that argument basically nothing is real.

Some people prefer lower or higher and most CAN adjust to different ones. It is sometimes overstated how much difference there actually is between rubbers, but you are going way overboard here.
 
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Here's a controversial statement. Throw angle is not a rubber property!

Let me tell you why "throw angle" is one of the most useless things to talk about in table tennis rubbers.

Part 1: It's not the rubber, it's you.

Almost every single post that contains the words "throw angle" is someone talking about not clearing the net on their loops, and blaming their rubber for it. Simultaneously, hundreds of players around the globe are using the exact same rubber and looping the ball just fine. It must be the rubber's fault, right? No. It's you.
Not saying you're bad (you might be, but I honestly can't tell from here) but what I am saying is that if you aren't clearing the net, you aren't doing it correctly.
Think about it, if any popular rubber actually had problems clearing the net, why would it be popular?

A staple skill of any half decent table tennis player is the ability to quickly adjust to changing circumstances. You HAVE to be able to change up your stroke between looping a backspin ball, dead ball, topspin ball, all coming at different speeds and angles. Likewise, it is an essential skill to adjust to the equipment you are playing with. Changing equipment often does not help with that, we are all familiar with the downsides of EJing. But blaming the equipment is just as unhelpful, as it shifts the requirement for action away from you. Thing is, your rubber isn't going to change, and changing rubber isn't going to fix it. Even if you do find a rubber with properties that help cover up the current issue, the change WILL result in other issues popping up elsewhere. In this case usually: you find a rubber that clears the net easier, only to find out it's too hard to generate power with it, it sucks at drives, it's too spin sensitive for the short game...

Part 2: Derived properties are simply inaccurate.

I have been reading DCRainmaker's excellent in-depth reviews of sports electronics during my running years, and one very important thing that it has taught me is how a LOT of the stats reported by sports watches are simply derived estimates based on algorithms. You can't actually measure steps (made by your feet) with a device mounted on your wrist. You can't measure breathing, vertical oscillation, step length, yet many devices display this stuff anyway.
Similarly, a rubber has hardness (topsheet and sponge), pimple geometry, elasticity (topsheet and sponge) and a level of grip. And that's it. Even the level of grip is already borderline inaccurate, because there's not a uniform way of measuring it as a property.
Your precious "throw angle" is a result of these basic properties, combined with the vectors of both the incoming ball and your swing. See where this is going? Throw angle is a combination of the ball, your bat and your technique.

Part 3: How to adjust.

If you made it to this point, and haven't closed this tab in a fuming rage to still get a different rubber, kudos.
What usually happens if someone reports that their "throw angle" is too low is one (or more) of these things:

You don't make your loop stroke go from low to high.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net and doesn't really spin. Also, it never really goes above the net at any point in its trajectory OR it goes straight from higher to lower, not making a bit of an arc.
Fix: work on your loop basics. One great exercise is to roll the ball towards you and when it reaches your end of the table, lift it over the net using your rubber's GRIP (not hitting it upwards with an open bat).

You don't accelerate through the contact point.
Causes: tension in the arms, hands, shoulders, and/or core can make acceleration hard. So does insecurity, and sometimes it's just about understanding the mechanics of what you're trying to do.
Symptoms: the ball plops/shoots off your bat and it feels like you have zero control. Your stroke is highly sensitive to incoming spin and it feels impossible to overcome that.
Fix: Various methods can be used to visualize the problem. Hitting the ball against a wall or just plain upwards with a tense arm vs a whip motion can help to illustrate that the whip put a lot more power and spin onto the ball. Understanding that control lies in the ability to overcome the opponent's spin by putting on your own, not by (hopefully) anticipating the right spin on the ball and sticking your bat out to meet it. Accentuate the need to relax between shots, drop your arms completely in practice if you need to. Make it a challenge to start moving your arm as late as possible so you HAVE to accelerate.

Your bat angle is too closed.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net with spin alright, the ball might even spin around on the table for quite a bit. Sometimes the ball will skid and just plop off your bat falling almost straight down.
Fix: build up your topspin up from drive. Try to adjust as little as possible. Start slightly lower, end slightly higher and rather than adjusting your bat angle, focus on lifting the ball with the rubber. If you overshoot, just turn down the pace on the practice and try again. Stay loose and relaxed, because tense contact also leads to overshooting.

You loop the wrong balls.
Symptoms: the ball doesn't even make it to the net before hitting the table, despite your best efforts to put out a decent loop.
Fix: well this is a simple one and complicated at the same time. Bottom line, your looping skill level is not enough to overcome the ball you were given. You will need to get better at all the points mentioned above if you want to stand a chance at looping these balls. In the meantime, work on your pushing and anticipation, and loop the balls that are easier to loop.

Part 4: The long game.

Table tennis is hard to learn. Looping a backspin ball already is an advanced technique in the sense that you need to have good confidence in your basics. You need to be able to accelerate, grip the ball with your rubber, lift it, apply spin, judge the amount of force you have to put on it to get it over the net, all while staying relaxed enough to make soft, spinny, grippy contact as to not overshoot the table. This isn't something you will master in your first year of table tennis, it's something that people who have played for DECADES are still struggling with.

There is no equipment shortcut to fix this. Only practice.

In today's age of extremely abundant information, it's easy to forget those basics, but you have to remain curious and critical if your goal is to succeed at table tennis.

Keep thinking for yourself: If someone praises a rubber for its amazing properties in looping the ball over the net, what is their context?

Are they any good at all? If this is a beginner, they might have a wildly different technique and background from you. Also, good chance they won't be aware, or are not showing, the holes that changing to this rubber has opened in other areas of their game.
How often do they practice, and under what kind of guidance? The further away this is from your situation, the less relevant their information is for you.
What are they not showing you? Did they get any kind of compensation for their review? And this is not limited to the manufacturers, could be resellers, or even a coach or teammate giving the rubber in exchange for the promise of a review video. There doesn't even need to be ill or commercial intent. Are they actually still playing with it a few months later?
Don't confuse trusting the information of dozens of internet strangers with trusting yourself. No words or videos will convey how a rubber feels in your hands, on your bat, in your playing venue.
Who do you trust? Start with yourself and work outwards only when really necessary. In case of conflicting information, put your trust in the source closest to you.
- yourself, your feeling.
- your coach or other experienced real life players
- an external, real life, coach
- club mates with a bit of a level
If you don't have access to ANY of these (besides yourself, obviously), ask yourself the brutally honest question if table tennis is worth investing in at all in your current situation. You simply can't get to a decent level of table tennis by following online courses and playing on the break room table with a couple of friends. Just like you will never be a football star if you only play in the back alley and never make it to a club. So adjust your expectations if that's your situation and treat it like a casual game. Still want to throw money at equipment? I'm not your accountant. Just be aware that it's not going to fix anything for you.

Getting an initial feeling for different equipment usually comes pretty fast, in a matter of hours you will be able to use most rubbers up to 70-80% as well as you were using your previous one. The finesse however comes over the course of months, or even years. For blades it's more like weeks for that first 70-80% proficiency and years for the finesse. Even national level players will train with a different blade for at least half a year before using it in important matches.
If equipment feels bad, you can usually pick up on that within a week or so. You'll notice you're not adjusting to it well. Once you're past that first hurdle and start experiencing new problems, it's just not the equipment. So adjust, play the long game. If your equipment wears out and you still don't like the adjustment you have to make to use it, just go back to your previous rubber.

Part 5: Bottom line.

Changing equipment is only worth it if the person guiding your progress answers an explicit yes when you ask them if you need a change. If they do, they will also be able to indicate the direction of change you need to be making (usually slower, softer) and the more specific you are in your likes and dislikes (let them play with your bat, too) the more accurate advice they will be able to give.
Any half decent table tennis store will be able to present you with another brand's analog to the brand you are currently using or the brand you are advised but aren't fond of. A question like "My coach advised Rakza 7 but I prefer Andro rubbers, what should I get from Andro that matches that?" is a perfectly sensible thing to ask.
Bear in mind that some coaches will really appreciate if you stick to their specific advice both for the intent it shows, and in making it easier for them to understand your equipment. Other coaches (like my club's) are pretty much indifferent to what you use as long as it's in a bit of a sensible range.

Regardless of the country and its general level, any and all "medium" rubber (medium hardness, medium everything) will have the right properties to last you all the way up to levels where you are 99% certainly going to have other people around you, in real life, capable of giving you advice on (small) adjustments that might be helpful. All the Rakzas, Fastarcs, Rasanters, Rozenas, Glayzers, have what it takes to both get you to that level and support you each step along the way.
That level will most certainly not be one of the lower regional ones, or even higher regional ones. There are plenty of players on the national levels using non-flagship rubbers and non-flagship blades, while not lacking any spin, speed, power, control or whatever. Just look back at Dima beating Dan with a premade bat, or Anders Lind playing with his phone, if you need any confirmation: your equipment is just not the issue.
I've tried several different FH rubbers.
As have my club mates and team mates.
On the same strokes and on the same blade they have different throw angles, sometimes widely different.
Definitely, absolutely and certainly.
Verified by more than just me.
Choose what you want but they are not the same.
Try the Dignics and Tenergy series rubbers with differing pimple structures and tell everyone that the throw angle is the same..... 🙄
 
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I've tried several different FH rubbers.
As have my club mates and team mates.
On the same strokes and on the same blade they have different throw angles, sometimes widely different.
Definitely, absolutely and certainly.
Verified by more than just me.
Choose what you want but they are not the same.
Try the Dignics and Tenergy series rubbers with differing pimple structures and tell everyone that the throw angle is the same..... 🙄
One could apply all the same arguments in OP to the statement that "speed is not a blade property" but I don't think anyone would seriously say that. The idea that technique always beats equipment properties is true. The idea that the differences in equipment really aren't such a big deal that a competent player can't adapt is true. But none of that means that the differences don't exist...
 
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One could apply all the same arguments in OP to the statement that "speed is not a blade property" but I don't think anyone would seriously say that. The idea that technique always beats equipment properties is true. The idea that the differences in equipment really aren't such a big deal that a competent player can't adapt is true. But none of that means that the differences don't exist...
You are too generous. I get why people say that one shouldn't focus on equipment. But people who think equipment is not that important are always underestimating that the higher the level of the player, the more they think carefully about the equipment they use.
Everything you are saying is accurate but it doesn't contradict the statement that throw angle/trajectory is most definitely a rubber property. Nobody has ever used Dignics 09c and thought that it was a low throw rubber. But yes, the variations in trajectory of a rubber are not the main reason that any competent player will miss the ball and it is almost never something that is unconquerable.
Depends on the pressure of the situation. Equipment always has tradeoffs, and I think just because the tradeoffs might not impact your game at one level of opponent and speed doesn't mean that the tradeoffs don't exist at some level of opponent and speed.
 
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Here's a controversial statement. Throw angle is not a rubber property!

Let me tell you why "throw angle" is one of the most useless things to talk about in table tennis rubbers.

Part 1: It's not the rubber, it's you.

Almost every single post that contains the words "throw angle" is someone talking about not clearing the net on their loops, and blaming their rubber for it. Simultaneously, hundreds of players around the globe are using the exact same rubber and looping the ball just fine. It must be the rubber's fault, right? No. It's you.
Not saying you're bad (you might be, but I honestly can't tell from here) but what I am saying is that if you aren't clearing the net, you aren't doing it correctly.
Think about it, if any popular rubber actually had problems clearing the net, why would it be popular?

A staple skill of any half decent table tennis player is the ability to quickly adjust to changing circumstances. You HAVE to be able to change up your stroke between looping a backspin ball, dead ball, topspin ball, all coming at different speeds and angles. Likewise, it is an essential skill to adjust to the equipment you are playing with. Changing equipment often does not help with that, we are all familiar with the downsides of EJing. But blaming the equipment is just as unhelpful, as it shifts the requirement for action away from you. Thing is, your rubber isn't going to change, and changing rubber isn't going to fix it. Even if you do find a rubber with properties that help cover up the current issue, the change WILL result in other issues popping up elsewhere. In this case usually: you find a rubber that clears the net easier, only to find out it's too hard to generate power with it, it sucks at drives, it's too spin sensitive for the short game...

Part 2: Derived properties are simply inaccurate.

I have been reading DCRainmaker's excellent in-depth reviews of sports electronics during my running years, and one very important thing that it has taught me is how a LOT of the stats reported by sports watches are simply derived estimates based on algorithms. You can't actually measure steps (made by your feet) with a device mounted on your wrist. You can't measure breathing, vertical oscillation, step length, yet many devices display this stuff anyway.
Similarly, a rubber has hardness (topsheet and sponge), pimple geometry, elasticity (topsheet and sponge) and a level of grip. And that's it. Even the level of grip is already borderline inaccurate, because there's not a uniform way of measuring it as a property.
Your precious "throw angle" is a result of these basic properties, combined with the vectors of both the incoming ball and your swing. See where this is going? Throw angle is a combination of the ball, your bat and your technique.

Part 3: How to adjust.

If you made it to this point, and haven't closed this tab in a fuming rage to still get a different rubber, kudos.
What usually happens if someone reports that their "throw angle" is too low is one (or more) of these things:

You don't make your loop stroke go from low to high.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net and doesn't really spin. Also, it never really goes above the net at any point in its trajectory OR it goes straight from higher to lower, not making a bit of an arc.
Fix: work on your loop basics. One great exercise is to roll the ball towards you and when it reaches your end of the table, lift it over the net using your rubber's GRIP (not hitting it upwards with an open bat).

You don't accelerate through the contact point.
Causes: tension in the arms, hands, shoulders, and/or core can make acceleration hard. So does insecurity, and sometimes it's just about understanding the mechanics of what you're trying to do.
Symptoms: the ball plops/shoots off your bat and it feels like you have zero control. Your stroke is highly sensitive to incoming spin and it feels impossible to overcome that.
Fix: Various methods can be used to visualize the problem. Hitting the ball against a wall or just plain upwards with a tense arm vs a whip motion can help to illustrate that the whip put a lot more power and spin onto the ball. Understanding that control lies in the ability to overcome the opponent's spin by putting on your own, not by (hopefully) anticipating the right spin on the ball and sticking your bat out to meet it. Accentuate the need to relax between shots, drop your arms completely in practice if you need to. Make it a challenge to start moving your arm as late as possible so you HAVE to accelerate.

Your bat angle is too closed.
Symptoms: your ball hits the net with spin alright, the ball might even spin around on the table for quite a bit. Sometimes the ball will skid and just plop off your bat falling almost straight down.
Fix: build up your topspin up from drive. Try to adjust as little as possible. Start slightly lower, end slightly higher and rather than adjusting your bat angle, focus on lifting the ball with the rubber. If you overshoot, just turn down the pace on the practice and try again. Stay loose and relaxed, because tense contact also leads to overshooting.

You loop the wrong balls.
Symptoms: the ball doesn't even make it to the net before hitting the table, despite your best efforts to put out a decent loop.
Fix: well this is a simple one and complicated at the same time. Bottom line, your looping skill level is not enough to overcome the ball you were given. You will need to get better at all the points mentioned above if you want to stand a chance at looping these balls. In the meantime, work on your pushing and anticipation, and loop the balls that are easier to loop.

Part 4: The long game.

Table tennis is hard to learn. Looping a backspin ball already is an advanced technique in the sense that you need to have good confidence in your basics. You need to be able to accelerate, grip the ball with your rubber, lift it, apply spin, judge the amount of force you have to put on it to get it over the net, all while staying relaxed enough to make soft, spinny, grippy contact as to not overshoot the table. This isn't something you will master in your first year of table tennis, it's something that people who have played for DECADES are still struggling with.

There is no equipment shortcut to fix this. Only practice.

In today's age of extremely abundant information, it's easy to forget those basics, but you have to remain curious and critical if your goal is to succeed at table tennis.

Keep thinking for yourself: If someone praises a rubber for its amazing properties in looping the ball over the net, what is their context?

Are they any good at all? If this is a beginner, they might have a wildly different technique and background from you. Also, good chance they won't be aware, or are not showing, the holes that changing to this rubber has opened in other areas of their game.
How often do they practice, and under what kind of guidance? The further away this is from your situation, the less relevant their information is for you.
What are they not showing you? Did they get any kind of compensation for their review? And this is not limited to the manufacturers, could be resellers, or even a coach or teammate giving the rubber in exchange for the promise of a review video. There doesn't even need to be ill or commercial intent. Are they actually still playing with it a few months later?
Don't confuse trusting the information of dozens of internet strangers with trusting yourself. No words or videos will convey how a rubber feels in your hands, on your bat, in your playing venue.
Who do you trust? Start with yourself and work outwards only when really necessary. In case of conflicting information, put your trust in the source closest to you.
- yourself, your feeling.
- your coach or other experienced real life players
- an external, real life, coach
- club mates with a bit of a level
If you don't have access to ANY of these (besides yourself, obviously), ask yourself the brutally honest question if table tennis is worth investing in at all in your current situation. You simply can't get to a decent level of table tennis by following online courses and playing on the break room table with a couple of friends. Just like you will never be a football star if you only play in the back alley and never make it to a club. So adjust your expectations if that's your situation and treat it like a casual game. Still want to throw money at equipment? I'm not your accountant. Just be aware that it's not going to fix anything for you.

Getting an initial feeling for different equipment usually comes pretty fast, in a matter of hours you will be able to use most rubbers up to 70-80% as well as you were using your previous one. The finesse however comes over the course of months, or even years. For blades it's more like weeks for that first 70-80% proficiency and years for the finesse. Even national level players will train with a different blade for at least half a year before using it in important matches.
If equipment feels bad, you can usually pick up on that within a week or so. You'll notice you're not adjusting to it well. Once you're past that first hurdle and start experiencing new problems, it's just not the equipment. So adjust, play the long game. If your equipment wears out and you still don't like the adjustment you have to make to use it, just go back to your previous rubber.

Part 5: Bottom line.

Changing equipment is only worth it if the person guiding your progress answers an explicit yes when you ask them if you need a change. If they do, they will also be able to indicate the direction of change you need to be making (usually slower, softer) and the more specific you are in your likes and dislikes (let them play with your bat, too) the more accurate advice they will be able to give.
Any half decent table tennis store will be able to present you with another brand's analog to the brand you are currently using or the brand you are advised but aren't fond of. A question like "My coach advised Rakza 7 but I prefer Andro rubbers, what should I get from Andro that matches that?" is a perfectly sensible thing to ask.
Bear in mind that some coaches will really appreciate if you stick to their specific advice both for the intent it shows, and in making it easier for them to understand your equipment. Other coaches (like my club's) are pretty much indifferent to what you use as long as it's in a bit of a sensible range.

Regardless of the country and its general level, any and all "medium" rubber (medium hardness, medium everything) will have the right properties to last you all the way up to levels where you are 99% certainly going to have other people around you, in real life, capable of giving you advice on (small) adjustments that might be helpful. All the Rakzas, Fastarcs, Rasanters, Rozenas, Glayzers, have what it takes to both get you to that level and support you each step along the way.
That level will most certainly not be one of the lower regional ones, or even higher regional ones. There are plenty of players on the national levels using non-flagship rubbers and non-flagship blades, while not lacking any spin, speed, power, control or whatever. Just look back at Dima beating Dan with a premade bat, or Anders Lind playing with his phone, if you need any confirmation: your equipment is just not the issue.
This is just not true.

 
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Whenever someone says they hate Butterfly prices, I smile because they keep complaining about things that Butterfly has done the most work to educate people on, and think that this research and exposition should be free to everyone and when Butterfly builds it and more into the pricing, they complain... But Butterfly IMHO has done more than any other company to explain how pimple configurations impact rubber performance to the lay man. They used to have these Tenergy differences in a 2 part article that I can't find on the internet anymore.

 
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You are too generous. I get why people say that one shouldn't focus on equipment. But people who think equipment is not that important are always underestimating that the higher the level of the player, the more they think carefully about the equipment they use.

Depends on the pressure of the situation. Equipment always has tradeoffs, and I think just because the tradeoffs might not impact your game at one level of opponent and speed doesn't mean that the tradeoffs don't exist at some level of opponent and speed.
Yeah I should have said that my statement applies to low to middle intermediate amateur players who are incorrectly blaming their faults on equipment, which is a pretty small percentage of people but just something that gets disproportionately blown up on the internet. Like, if you're bad at table tennis then the throw angle of your rubber isn't the reason why. But differences are absolutely a thing and they do absolutely matter beyond being used an excuse for technique faults, especially for higher level players, but I think the people on this forum that can relate already know that.

Qiu Dang specifically said the high throw of 09c was a feature he valued for the safety while Kanak Jha specifically said he preferred 05 and now Zyre to 09c because for him 05/Zyre had a lower throw and that was something he wanted to help compensate his relative lack of power.
 
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Yeah I should have said that my statement applies to low to middle intermediate amateur players who are incorrectly blaming their faults on equipment, which is a pretty small percentage of people but just something that gets disproportionately blown up on the internet. Like, if you're bad at table tennis then the throw angle of your rubber isn't the reason why. But differences are absolutely a thing and they do absolutely matter beyond being used an excuse for technique faults, especially for higher level players, but I think the people on this forum that can relate already know that.

Qiu Dang specifically said the high throw of 09c was a feature he valued for the safety while Kanak Jha specifically said he preferred 05 and now Zyre to 09c because for him 05/Zyre had a lower throw and that was something he wanted to help compensate his relative lack of power.
You give people on the forum credit, I like that. The truth IMHO is that these things matter to some degree at all levels, but because we agree that technique determines *most* of the level, the equipment should not be the focus once one can adapt to it. But when a player is not going to change much technically or adapt much more, equipment differences do have tradeoffs that may either affect how much one enjoys playing or how one actually plays, even when there is no real change in playing level. And in some cases, where significant changes in rubbers or blade speed are made, they do impact playing level. We have the case of Sabine Winter for one, and I have seen many players at lower levels make similar changes with good results. Obviously, these are not what the OP has in mind, but even going to thinner sponged inverted or tacky or sometimes non-tacky inverted on the BH/FH can be that kind of change for some players.

But of course, these kinds of changes in playing level being entirely due to equipment changes are not the norm. Regardless, while it is good advice to focus on technique, one shouldn't distort the reality of rubber differences to make this case. One should just make it clear that until you are sufficiently advanced, it isn't going to be the main driver of your playing level.
 
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One could apply all the same arguments in OP to the statement that "speed is not a blade property" but I don't think anyone would seriously say that. The idea that technique always beats equipment properties is true. The idea that the differences in equipment really aren't such a big deal that a competent player can't adapt is true. But none of that means that the differences don't exist...
Succinctly put 👍
I broadly agree with the sentiment of his post in that most of us can adapt to whatever we're using equipment wise.
It's probably just a few statements like " 'throw angle' is one of the most useless things to talk about" along with the post title that I disagree with.
It suggests too strongly that someone has no reason for choosing T05 over 64.
Anyway... 🤷
 
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Succinctly put 👍
I broadly agree with the sentiment of his post in that most of us can adapt to whatever we're using equipment wise.
It's probably just a few statements like " 'throw angle' is one of the most useless things to talk about" along with the post title that I disagree with.
It suggests too strongly that someone has no reason for choosing T05 over 64.
Anyway... 🤷
Exactly. The funny thing is that all the Tenergy rubbers are *relatively* high throw, but the idea that it is easier to get a higher arc or more spin with one rubber vs. another is real and can be experienced by someone using the rubber no matter their level. It also affects blocking, pushing and other things. And depending on how you play, some of these windows becomes important. When Mizutani didn't like 05 or Korbel didn't like 05, does anyone think it is about the player not being able to change their stroke?
 
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