SDC Handmade Blades

[SDC]

#1419 - Inner 5+2 - OFF-

I always say that wood density dictates more of the feeling than wood species, and that is still true. However, some woods have certain characteristics that stand out, even if the density varies. In this case I'm using Burma Teak for the top ply, which is denser than the average Koto. Koto is usually regarded as crisp, and Limba as mushy, but Burma Teak, despite being denser than Koto, doesn't feel exactly crisp, it feels more like a harder Limba, less mushy. The medial is a soft Douglas Fir and then we have unidirectional carbon positioned vertically, which gives a smidge more stiffness, but does not impact the feeling, that is all coming from the wood. Feels like a old school blade, solid, robust, not amazing at anything in particular but very versatile. To match this old school feeling I made an old school handle shape, very chunky like the old Stiga Master.

Available FS.

- Burma Teak / Douglas Fir / UD-C / Ayous core
- 90.1g
- 5.75mm
- 157x149mm
- FL (100x25.3-23.4mm)
- Balance: 3.1cm (Med)

 

[Tyce]

Unidirectional carbon? Interesting... Is there anything holding the fibers together then? (before you laminate it of course) Is it stuck on a sheet or something?

 

[SDC]

Unidirectional carbon? Interesting... Is there anything holding the fibers together then? (before you laminate it of course) Is it stuck on a sheet or something?

It comes with a sheet of plastic so that the threads don't fall apart, but it's also stitched together with a very spaced apart and fine line.

 

[Wakkibatty]

#1420 - Inner GF - OFF-/OFF

Douglas Fir, often confused with Spruce, is one of the alternatives to Hinoki. The problem is usually the weight, the average density is higher than Hinoki's, but the particular layers that I've used here are actually quite light. It doesn't have the same springiness as Kiso Hinoki (nothing has...), but it feels very close to other kinds of Hinoki, for example from the Kumamoto region that I also work with. The main advantage is that it's much easier to source, since it's much more available, the problem is finding the correct density. It's been a while since I used a Spruce core, and I thought it would pair well with the light outer layers. There's a very thin glass-fiber layer between them, just to dampen some vibrations. It feels like a very solid blade, and reasonably fast on the higher gears, perfect for someone who wants some speed without "carbon". Yes, it's not the lightest, but it's well balanced. The handle is made from Douglas Fir too, but it's a much higher density than the one used on the outer layers. Vis shaped handle, but larger overall. The butt of the handle looks so good, I didn't have the courage to cover it 😅.

Available FS.

- D. Fir / D. Fir / Glass-fiber / Spruce core
- 93.5g
- 5.9mm
- 157x150mm
- FL (100x25.1-23.0mm)
- Balance: 2.9cm (Low/Med)

Beautiful blades Sergio - bravo. 👌

(Re: Hinoki's bounciness -- remind me to introduce you to Sköllawood sometime, you might really get a kick out if it. 😎😎)

 

[SDC]

Beautiful blades Sergio - bravo. 👌

(Re: Hinoki's bounciness -- remind me to introduce you to Sköllawood sometime, you might really get a kick out if it. 😎😎)

Would love to try 🙂

 

[SDC]

The last blade of this series, then I will be out for a while again. Back to the cave! 😂

#1422 - 3+2 Iz-C- OFF

Just because I haven't put a 3+2 for sale in a while here. Pretty straightforward composition, Kumamoto Hinoki is a bit denser than Kiso Hinoki, so it feels a bit less springy as well, but it's still soft. Izanas-Carbon is not far from ALC, it's stiffer but slightly more elastic. Overall it's a stiff but soft blade, maybe more oriented for over the table play. The handle on this one is again larger than usual, Vis shaped but chunkier.

Available FS.

- Kumamoto Hinoki / Izanas-Carbon / Kiri core
- 81.5g
- 6.6mm
- 155.6x149mm
- FL (101x25.2-22.8mm)
- Balance: 3.0cm (Med)

 

[Wakkibatty]

Would love to try 🙂

Check your PMs. 😎

 

[foreright]

The last blade of this series, then I will be out for a while again. Back to the cave! 😂

#1422 - 3+2 Iz-C- OFF

Just because I haven't put a 3+2 for sale in a while here. Pretty straightforward composition, Kumamoto Hinoki is a bit denser than Kiso Hinoki, so it feels a bit less springy as well, but it's still soft. Izanas-Carbon is not far from ALC, it's stiffer but slightly more elastic. Overall it's a stiff but soft blade, maybe more oriented for over the table play. The handle on this one is again larger than usual, Vis shaped but chunkier.

Available FS.

- Kumamoto Hinoki / Izanas-Carbon / Kiri core
- 81.5g
- 6.6mm
- 155.6x149mm
- FL (101x25.2-22.8mm)
- Balance: 3.0cm (Med)

Wow, that is a thing of beauty - I hope to produce something 10% as good as that someday xD

I'd been meaning to ask this for a while but do you do anything to "seal" or otherwise treat the edges (or even the face...) of your blades before they leave the door? I ask as I'm 20 or so blades "in" (making wise) and that's been over a couple of years so I'm getting to see first hand how they stand up to long term use / abuse. My 9 y/o son has used a couple of them so they've had a bit of a baptism of fire as he's not that careful around the edge of the table and, well, he's a child so you can imagine what the leading edge of the blade looks like after 6 months or so of use. I'm wondering if there's something you do to prevent delamination / chipping of the edge as I hate edge tape.

 

[Yurifi]

#1419 - Inner 5+2 - OFF-

I always say that wood density dictates more of the feeling than wood species, and that is still true. However, some woods have certain characteristics that stand out, even if the density varies. In this case I'm using Burma Teak for the top ply, which is denser than the average Koto. Koto is usually regarded as crisp, and Limba as mushy, but Burma Teak, despite being denser than Koto, doesn't feel exactly crisp, it feels more like a harder Limba, less mushy. The medial is a soft Douglas Fir and then we have unidirectional carbon positioned vertically, which gives a smidge more stiffness, but does not impact the feeling, that is all coming from the wood. Feels like a old school blade, solid, robust, not amazing at anything in particular but very versatile. To match this old school feeling I made an old school handle shape, very chunky like the old Stiga Master.

Available FS.

- Burma Teak / Douglas Fir / UD-C / Ayous core
- 90.1g
- 5.75mm
- 157x149mm
- FL (100x25.3-23.4mm)
- Balance: 3.1cm (Med)

whoa, this must be a delight to play with, must have a very good feel for the ball!!

The last blade of this series, then I will be out for a while again. Back to the cave! 😂

#1422 - 3+2 Iz-C- OFF

Just because I haven't put a 3+2 for sale in a while here. Pretty straightforward composition, Kumamoto Hinoki is a bit denser than Kiso Hinoki, so it feels a bit less springy as well, but it's still soft. Izanas-Carbon is not far from ALC, it's stiffer but slightly more elastic. Overall it's a stiff but soft blade, maybe more oriented for over the table play. The handle on this one is again larger than usual, Vis shaped but chunkier.

Available FS.

- Kumamoto Hinoki / Izanas-Carbon / Kiri core
- 81.5g
- 6.6mm
- 155.6x149mm
- FL (101x25.2-22.8mm)
- Balance: 3.0cm (Med)

and this one must be a space rocket, we probably need a new, higher then OFF section to put this one in

 

[SDC]

Wow, that is a thing of beauty - I hope to produce something 10% as good as that someday xD

I'd been meaning to ask this for a while but do you do anything to "seal" or otherwise treat the edges (or even the face...) of your blades before they leave the door? I ask as I'm 20 or so blades "in" (making wise) and that's been over a couple of years so I'm getting to see first hand how they stand up to long term use / abuse. My 9 y/o son has used a couple of them so they've had a bit of a baptism of fire as he's not that careful around the edge of the table and, well, he's a child so you can imagine what the leading edge of the blade looks like after 6 months or so of use. I'm wondering if there's something you do to prevent delamination / chipping of the edge as I hate edge tape.

I seal the face and edges, but just to protect them against moisture absorption and splintering. On the edges this also helps because edge tape can sometimes pull the fibers too. But that's it, if you want something that protects against hitting the table, etc, you have to take much more drastic measures.

whoa, this must be a delight to play with, must have a very good feel for the ball!!

and this one must be a space rocket, we probably need a new, higher then OFF section to put this one in

Why did I initially read "OF section"? 😂

But really, it's not, it doesn't have the mass to be that fast.

 

[Faker]

Have you ever made a blade which has a construction like this: Limba-Limba-SZLC-Kiri-SZLC-Limba-Limba? @SDC

 

[SDC]

Have you ever made a blade which has a construction like this: Limba-Limba-SZLC-Kiri-SZLC-Limba-Limba? @SDC

Probably? Although I don't recall any like that, not recently at least.