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I remember coming up with a commercial idea: JM loses a point after point and shouts: "It CAN'T be CEREALS!" And the winner leaves with a box of Kellogs in his bag. But then I learned that cereals were bad for your health and decided to drop it.

Absolutely. And a player must shout loudly "backspin!", "topspin!" or "no spin!" each time before the contact with the ball. And they should be clear and honest. Otherwise it is cheating. Any sidespin should be banned. A particularly heavy spin must be indicated as "fu***ng backspin!" or...

I am sure that something like a Joola Rossi Emotion (which is as good as any 100+ blade in my humble opinion, and which you can pick up for $65 on sale) can last a lifetime (bar unfortunate accidents) and serve you extremely well throughout your career, whether you are an amateur or a pro. A...

Hinoki - Koto -ALC - Ayos. HC series have similar structure, the only difference is carbon type. HC-5S has soft carbon (fleece) instead of ALC and therefore is slower but also quite spinny (an amazing blade for beginners/lower intermediates in my opinion). I guess they borrowed the wood...

Not my main blade, but I use it sometimes.

Victas Koki Niwa Wood. Quite hard and stiff, crisp and fast, somewhat similar to a Viscaria. Less mute and more spin.

I would have incorporated the date in the serial number, something like: 2408Z00735 or Z240800735 where the first four digits indicate the year (2024) and the month (August), Z refers to the wood batch or the model, and the rest is the blade number (735).

Yes, it's good to be coached :)

Lots of players who are levels above you and train 20+ hours a week, avoid D09 on BH because it's not an easy rubber to play on BH, so don't be surprised if you struggle. Just be realistic about it. You may as well try to play with a Rakza Z, which is also a high throw rubber, but is much easier...

The best solution in my view is to train for more than 2 hours a week.

His goal is to find a rubber which suits his technique and retains speed/spin, not to downgrade to a baby-rubber which will allow his opponents to eat him alive :) . The OP states that Rozena is not spinny and dangerous enough, and also that Fastarc series are too slow for his game. And that...

The guy is 1850TTR in Germany. It's like 2100+ USATT, and that's pretty solid. Vega X maybe, but Vega Europe is way too comfortable for the opponents at this level.

Try DHS GoldArc 8 47.5 2mm

Agree. On top of that a hook serve gives you more options for fake motions, and let's be honest, is much easier to hide. Lots of players serve hooks from low positions on the verge of illegal or just blatantly hidden, and it's not easy for an umpire to detect.

Just a short Nittaku Hina Hayata H2 appreciation post, having played with it for about a month. What a blade, it hit the bull's-eye in so many ways. It is supremely balanced, in terms of speed, spin, hardness, dwell, flex it sits right in the middle for my game. It is very linear, the PKC layer...

You are overthinking this. Let her play and learn.

2A is just the Darker code for the specific wood treating/glueing process. It is unrelated to the particular wood or carbon layers. Not all Darker pure hinoki blades were made using this process, only the A2 line. Or, citing Darker "2a is a product name reflecting the Darker's unique process...

I have only two Darkers, but both are great fun to play with: a 7P-2A.Carbon a.k.a. The Spin Monster and a 7P-2A.7t a.k.a The Bouncy Rocket

In the meantime I bought this, just to add to my small hinoki collection. It won't replace my H2 as a prime blade of course, but it's such a great fun to play with. Could it be cloned at a fraction of its cost? I seriously doubt it :D. If anything, it will be more expensive in the future.

Don't forget Nittaku Miyabi, Septear, and Hino blades, the ever popular Joola Rossi Emotion, Joola Aruna, Joola Nobilis, and the blade I would like to try - Victas Koki Niwa ZC. But of course if you want to experience how real kiso hinoki feels, look at Darker blades :cool: