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wow, chatgpt is ~70% correct(volume wise). this is booster: https://www.australianhomebrewing.com.au/wine-saver-oil-1-lt don't add wax unless you absolutely dislike the viscosity and want it more thick.

my unsolicited advice is: don't stress about this stuff. applying a thin coat of PU varnish makes more of a difference for preventing splintering rather than preventing moisture buildup. softer wood definitely splinters more easily than harder wood. and by wood, i'm not referring to tree...

this is like saying: "i don't drink alcohol. i only drink whiskey on wednesdays"

BTY Golden Viscaria jerky flavour. sealing the blade with a good PU varnish helps a lot, but you may not want to coat the blade with enough varnish that would make it actually watertight(if you can do it at all). you need at least 9-10 coats to even be close to making a piece of wood...

dehydrate the blade to about 7% before you put on new rubbers

^^this! is why the internet became a place where you get stupider while feeling you get smarter.

cool, but that means you don't approve of racket, tables and balls since they are all tech and are used in table tennis.

you could try showcasing the tech at la large-ish competition. also, if false positives are actually an issue, you can ML them out, randomforests are more than enough to get it done.

these kind of things are always cool and helpful, fun to make and dirt cheap. great job! fire up kicad, put that stuff on a nice pcb, design a 3d printable case, build and sell a few.

great follow up! using rubber leftovers is great way of saving $ while experimenting.

this needs to stop! in 2025, why do the rules allow points to be won by flat hitting? only valid way of winning a point is obviously opponent not being able to return a fh loop made with an unboosted h3 bs, glued with dhs no 15 on a dhs blade!

top chinese players don't boost their h3s. they have designated people for that.

rubber color plays a part in it's properties too. black rubber is made with carbon black, while red is usually made with azo dyes. they are very different substances with very different properties. still, your approach is a decently good way of comparing the 2 cleaners.

2 on rubber, 1 on blade for dry gluing. i find that if i do more than that, i get too much catapult effect. i use my own glue formula.

harder sponges can store(and thus release) more energy. as an activity is practiced more, people develop better explanations about how things work that results in better coaching practices, etc. compared to players from the past, current players are just better players, they are faster...

i never said i am, n'or do i feel confused about anything in this thread.

you are right, it's not just some, it seems there is a lot of it:).

this is also a valid approach, you can outsource some or all tasks that make up the manufacturing process.

blade making is surprisingly similar to classic wood boat making. if you don't have access to good quality thickness planers and drum sanders, you can buy calibrated wood sheets. not even commercial blade producers make their own carbon fiber textiles so alibaba those as well. d3-d4 pva glue is...

i do this: