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My thoughts exactly. Any of them will pair very nicely with the Viscaria, so it's much more important to pick the ones that suit your style and level, rather than those that suit the blade.

There's no evidence that this is intentional, so it's really no different to any other rubber that loses friction over time. All are covered under the same rule: 2.4.7.1 Slight deviations from continuity of surface or uniformity of colour due to accidental damage or wear may be allowed provided...

It can be a tough and thankless job being a moderator sometimes... you're damned if you don't act, and damned if you do. o_O

Wishing you a speedy recovery!

That will very interesting, and indeed very useful for others that might consider this, thank you!

I noticed that too! :eek::) I do agree with the OP though, it's simple and very effective marketing... saves having to search forums and social media for the stuff they use.

Wow, good pricing, wish we had pricing like that in Australia!

Yes I agree, No need to upgrade if it's working well for you. The newer rubbers are NOT always better. :)

You and me both!

ROFL That is actually true! For different reasons of course, but so true! :ROFLMAO:

I bet most people don't even know what they do with their other hand, at least not until they get back onto a table and check. I am one of those!:eek::ROFLMAO:

I find it easiest with tacky rubbers as they lift the ball better with light control, like H3, D09C, recent hybrid rubbers, etc.

Yes I hated it too. It seemed dumb down the game making the ralleys and distance these athletes cover seem much shorter.

You may be You may be right, the manual mentions A C and D as the needle shapes, the C being the 2.5mm ball. Reading vary a lot with different sponges, so it's in the right hardness range. This is what mine looks like.

You really want the pressure head/pin to be a ball, not a pin, because many sponges are quite 'large pored', so you need to spread the pressure over a larger area. I've used a Shore C digital durometer before, which has a 2.5mm ball as the pressure head, while all the others I could find had...

Not sure if it's bested by H3, but perhaps for some players. From the Tenergy/Dignics range, I find T05 still the easiest to generate high spin and good speed. It's more forgiving to imperfect technique and it rewards good technique. It is the most sensitive to incoming spin from the range as...

Joola Golden Tango (not the PS) was one of more recent tacky rubber, and this one maintains the tackiness a long time too, as long as you use protection sheets. Sadly it seems it's discontinued.

If you're a brush looper (like you do with Chinese tacky style rubbers), you'll likely get more spin out of the 09C, but if you're more of a euro-style looper you'll likely get more spin out of 05. Either one can produce massive spin with the right technique, as others have said. Just remember...

I only use one for competition, and an (almost) identical one as a backup in case I ever break it. Although I'm sure you can get used to several setups, muscle memory and timing will always be a little different, and this usually takes more than a few sessions to adapt. I have many other bats...

As soon as the ball leaves your palm in an attempted serve, the point starts, so if you catch it, you'll lose the point.