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You sure? Although she’s not attacking as what a modern defender would, she clearly shows grippy anti being able to be useful for a steady pure chopping strategy

It seems to have a lot of boxes ticked to be a great modern defender blade: 1. Limba outer 2. Slightly bigger headsize (similar to Korbel and Harimoto ALC) 3. Great forehand capability and spinning potential 4. Inner Carbon (hello recently released Koji Matsushita ZC) The only drawback I think...

Their lacquering is top notch. Had 5 blades lacquered no issue. I use both wbg and voc glues

I found C53 plays really bad in really cold or humid conditions. The topsheet becomes very stiff and plastic-ky.

Same as OP I found a limit with T05 for FH in 1.9mm on ALC. In peak physical and mental condition I use T05H 2.1, though as I don’t practice as much I am content using C53 Max+ as for me (key point) it is more forgiving and like T05H the power can be fed through all the way to my upper gear...

Regarding thickness you will need to take into consideration your blade and how early you want to hit into it at higher impacts. Some people find control with increased sponge (normally through what they feel to be more topspin generating potential) whilst others find control through topsheet...

Other current in production defensive blades with composite layer: Stiga Defensive Pro DHS 08x Spinlord Ultra Carbon DEF Victas just came out with Koji Matsushita ZC - expensive though so maybe wait for reviews. Generally, 5 Ply = more backspin generation, precise placement, slower. Overall...

To transition into a counterlooping style what type of characteristics would one look for in material to support? Other than needing to train 5 hours a day 😂 Obvious seems to be H3 on FH, Andro C53 BH and a crisp soft ALC/ZLC blade? To avoid: Hinoki? Pure Carbon? 9 ply+? Thickness >7mm?

I wonder why Yasaka decided to discontinue the Extra 3D? The (extra!) flex from the 3 slits above the handle would suit very well to topspinning the plastic ball

I would suggest looking at a non-hollowed handle, as the WRB likely moved the centre of balance too far toward the head making you feel Stiga AC was too bouncy. Check this thread, thank me later. https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/best-feeling-allround-plus-blade.15610/

No love for Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC? Ovtcharov being thicker by 0.2mm. All other specs look to be identical, even the 158x152 headsize.

I will be visiting Taiwan later this year, between Christmas and New Year, is there a TT league where I can watch these players compete/train or even have a sneaky hit myself? I will be spending 3 days in Taipei and 3 days in Kaohsiung. Hopefully they will be foreigner friendly seeing I don’t...

Spring sponge is very prominent in 2.1 - with the T05 topsheet it’s amazing during drill practice and warm up but once the real match starts, it gets very twitchy in the short game. You need to survive the first 2-3 balls. I too like T05 1.9 better. On the other hand if you can go up to T05H...

As it’s an experiment with a custom product, no one apart from you would have any idea how it would play. Maybe start with a certain hardness and work your way up or down? Much like how companies range their rubbers? S, M, H, XH? And report back to us :) FYI - Nittaku uses White Ash in...

Is there any difference to spin sensitivity and or throw angle?

To OP, what made you change away from C53?

But seriously does anyone find this difference?

Butterfly Kong Linghui Headsize: 154x148mm (super compact) Thickness: 5.5mm FL: 100×24×34mm

I think the variables both myself and @DukeGaGa have tried to explain is precisely why you haven’t been able to get your truly exhaustive answer 🙁 Sorry!

You are putting an assumption the weight is distributed evenly. If a weight is put in the handle it may not necessarily mean the heavier blade is stiffer, in my example it’ll just mean the centre of balance is shifted more toward where the weight is. When working with wood there are so many...