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if you know you'll commit to the rubber, buy both provincial and national versions in the same hardness and thickness(2.1/40 for example). based on whether you feel the difference between them or not, you'll know what to get for your 3rd sheet.

qualitatively, you'll find the answer in middle school physics books. quantitatively, you'll need undergrad mechanics+fluid dynamics.

the substance you call booster in tt slang is VOC free and classed as food safe(there are some products for which this is not true though), anything short of dipping the VOC meter in a bottle of that stuff will pass the racket VOC test.

it means: on day 337 of the year 2400 you will recover financially from this purchase.

if one would take the rule that implies that boosting is illegal seriously (2.4.7 The racket covering shall be used without any physical, chemical or other treatment.) than one should also conclude that cutting or handling the rubber in any way is illegal. imo, that's silly. the same way...

= "i hate how i need to read and do research stuff. why don't i know shit just by wishing it? this sucks!"

wow, chatgpt is ~70% correct(volume wise). this is booster: https://www.australianhomebrewing.com.au/wine-saver-oil-1-lt don't add wax unless you absolutely dislike the viscosity and want it more thick.

my unsolicited advice is: don't stress about this stuff. applying a thin coat of PU varnish makes more of a difference for preventing splintering rather than preventing moisture buildup. softer wood definitely splinters more easily than harder wood. and by wood, i'm not referring to tree...

this is like saying: "i don't drink alcohol. i only drink whiskey on wednesdays"

BTY Golden Viscaria jerky flavour. sealing the blade with a good PU varnish helps a lot, but you may not want to coat the blade with enough varnish that would make it actually watertight(if you can do it at all). you need at least 9-10 coats to even be close to making a piece of wood...

dehydrate the blade to about 7% before you put on new rubbers

^^this! is why the internet became a place where you get stupider while feeling you get smarter.

cool, but that means you don't approve of racket, tables and balls since they are all tech and are used in table tennis.

you could try showcasing the tech at la large-ish competition. also, if false positives are actually an issue, you can ML them out, randomforests are more than enough to get it done.

these kind of things are always cool and helpful, fun to make and dirt cheap. great job! fire up kicad, put that stuff on a nice pcb, design a 3d printable case, build and sell a few.

great follow up! using rubber leftovers is great way of saving $ while experimenting.

this needs to stop! in 2025, why do the rules allow points to be won by flat hitting? only valid way of winning a point is obviously opponent not being able to return a fh loop made with an unboosted h3 bs, glued with dhs no 15 on a dhs blade!

top chinese players don't boost their h3s. they have designated people for that.

rubber color plays a part in it's properties too. black rubber is made with carbon black, while red is usually made with azo dyes. they are very different substances with very different properties. still, your approach is a decently good way of comparing the 2 cleaners.

2 on rubber, 1 on blade for dry gluing. i find that if i do more than that, i get too much catapult effect. i use my own glue formula.