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You could try and contact a few local clubs to have a knock. If you play and control à Viscaria im pretty sure there’s plenty of people who’d love to spar every now and then.

There’s no golden rule as to whether or not you should fall back. Is matter of preference. However for beginners most common is to learn to stay at the table to control the game. Placement over power That said, counter loop from far is an advanced technique you need to be able to comfortably...

I really like this Channel, the quality of the content is amazing. Helps me really think about technique from a different perspective. One concept she explained was about matching your backswing speed with the incoming ball speed. Always start your backswing when the ball passes the net. I...

Multiball for cardio and footwork is definitely valid at almost any level. For training techniques you would need a good coach and a decent feeder.

This thread is already full of great ideas! I already used quite a few of them in my own sessions, both when I was the strong player and when I was the weaker player. When I train with weaker opponents, in match play, I always focus on 2 things. First two touches and intentions. So first two...

He won 40% of point he received with his backhand against wang chuqin, how is that not amazing ?

He did the same to WCQ with a conversion rate of about 40% which is amazing

I have tried both and definitely prefer slow blade plus fast rubbers. (Well what was considered fast like 10 years ago (G1 and evolution elp). I do however agree that it is a clear tradeoff between killshots and rallying. It’s much harder to overpower the opponent so you need placement and...

I think the blade you are using is way above your skill level. And also quite heavy coming in at 105 grammes. If you insist on using it you could go with either : beginner tensors to develop your strokes and not have something too fast Nitakku Factive comes to mind Soft tensors, they're...

In the latest podcast table tennis daily about spin sight they tell that there’s no measurable difference between big and small halls. The tables however make a big difference.

So I guess it’s a secret what anti rubber she’s playing?

If the top ply is limba, I will just buy an Applegren Allplay, same weight, same thickness, same brand (more or less) and Limba outer pli.

These are photos of the side. It’s about 5.3 mm thick and weighs 85gr

I found some images online. I’ll try to get a good close up of the side so the layers are visible.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to find detailed info on an old blade: Donic Sstrait X5 (early 2000s). I’m especially looking for: Exact thickness Wood composition (outer + core plies) Any info on feel / flex / vibration For info and background: It’s the blade I learned to play with and have come...

I really think the adaptation should be to the game and not the rubber. The game is faster with less spin.. You simply have less time to organise yourself. And the biggest difference between divisions I note is speed and placement. (Or placement and speed more precisely).

It’s like reading a summary of what I experience. And every time I feel like I figured it out I move up a level and it’s like it starts again haha. Also I confirm having tried a lot of equipment but not the high end fast stuff. It doesn’t seem to matter with what I play I seem to beat the same...

Getting better at doing it “wrong” has worked wonders for Truls though jk

Do a lot of drills involving “take initiative” then play a “winner”. For example, backspin serve short to your backhand, flick to their backhand block to your forehand you play a winner. Or you do a long topspin serve to their backhand they block on the diagonal you pivot and play a winner...

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