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Doing what you want means that you are already far from the table. Because you can't go backwards to play a move, unless it's last resort. And the closer to the table you are, the less you can be overtaken by the angle of the shot of your opponent. Counter looping mean cutting the trajectory of...

Totally logical, since you have less time to adjust. Counterspin should be practiced at this distance (first seconds of the video), you hit the ball before the highest of its trajectory : Can you see how close to the table she is ?

It's very useless to speak about the rating. Even in France, 1300 is not the same level if you're in Paris or in Limoges. I can't imagine the disparities of level for a same rating in the US. On your video, your going backwards too many times, and, if you make some footworks effort when the...

I said blockspin, not block. Blockspin will help you develop the short movement, the timing. And you have to learn to not going backwards.

And I ask for pre-made racquet. I already know quite well the self made setups that are good and very cheap.

Too expensive. I want it to be 20€ maximum. There are some Loki blades at this price, but I don't know how they are compared to the Kokutaku I linked.

What pre-made racquet would you buy for 10/20€ ? For 2 full beginners of my club, I ordered the 4* following racquets : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000971491119.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2fra I'm wondering if, for the same price, or a little more, there was a way better bargain for pre-made. For...

Too many time your body goes backwards, one of your legs is often not touching the ground at the hand of your stroke (mainly resulting from the first point), too wide movement. You should begin with another drill. Close to the table, work on bloc spins. It will compell you to go forward and to...

VP2 was very 'control', I loved its block capabilities. But arc too low for my punches. I'll try it boosted too on my Yinhe 05.

I love Moon 12 on FH, and it was fast, but on BH, I found it slow. But it's slow because of the low arc compared to what I always used. I will boost my red Big Dipper to test. I also boosted a Volant Phoenix 2 but it's on another blade, Sanwei HC-1s. But, honestly, after everything I tried...

I tried Moon 12 and it was way too slow on my Fang Bo B2. I tried the Aurora Pro (blue jacket) and it's qualities are below ESN rubbers (except price). The new Aurora is this one ...

For FH ? All the rubbers are good without boosting. They are more or less suited for my play style and technique, but none lacks speed or spin. I boosted LAC once, and I lost so much control, it was absurd. Unboosted, I win a lot games thanks to my FH, so I guess LAC is fast enough for my level...

I'm still very confused about this need, for intermediate players like us, to boost chinese rubbers on the FH, to obtain something you could have with other rubbers without boosting.

Just remove the side camera angle. It's awful. I enjoyed more the view from my 3/4 oriented seat 20m from the table at Montpellier WTT than on the TV, which is a joke.

No, if you're an average 1,80/70kg, you should take L. I take XL with 1,83m and 80 to 85kg depending on the season :LOL:

What will you use the R7 for ? What with your profile setup are you not satisfied with ?

Maybe, depends on your shape. My brother, 1m78, 70kg, wears L, but he's hell of an athlete.

Yes, XL.

You're a M EU, you should buy less large t-shirts. Check the sewing of the shoulder of your t-shirts. It should be just in the middle of the curve of your own shoulder.

XXL. I'm M EU (183cm, 80kg) and I take XL Asian. That's weird you take L size, your shirt must be very loose.