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What are the applicable rules? Pretty much the ITTF laws of Table Tennis? Will depend on what rules apply to your Belgian Interclub. I would not want to comment until I know what rules are being used.

More sponge on LP and a slower, maybe sticky rubber, so maybe 999 on a softer sponge of the thickness you like... and 1.6 sponge on ur pips. Anything wood in the DEF+ to ALL or low ALL+ range will suit you, they all have feel. (Talking about older proven wood blades Donic and Stiga)

This is gunna sound a little or a lot weird, but a Stiga Allround Evolution in upper 80s+ grams with Tibhar FX-P and Tibhar Grass DTechs in 1.2 will be a good start for you. Why? A decent balance off offensive potential with CONTROLABLE (easy to do something) chop, punch, and soft serve...

This is probably the truest sentence of Lula's post. It is also a very obvious observation... but on the forums, many of those asking advice are new to the forum and have not seen the posting history of those giving advice, so there is literally zero clue for them... Anyone remember Greg...

This is kinda the overall attitude in USA, but what are saying Lula is EXACTLY how Chinese parents view it. If the coach was NOT either USATT 2700+, a former province champ, or CNT A or B Team... then they want NOTHING to do with that coach. If some 2000 USATT slappie blocks 2700's loop for a...

Hi Antse7en, Like a lot of players starting out, you often impact ball too far in front and are in 4x4 LOCK mode moving hips, upper body and arm pretty much locked together. Think more of a whip with a timed sequence. Of course, that isn't the sole articulation needed to get you to instantly...

You have a few clubs kinda reasonable close to Korean Flushing... but they more like training centers. NYISC is several miles north, but well worth it, even if you walk in, there will be some people your level.

Carl had just finished a 30 mile sprint to get back home from a freedom ride. He could activate the kickstand on the carbon fiber bike and re-read the last sentence of the first paragraph. He might need Sherlock Holmes' magnifying glass to see where I wrote FX-X is less bouncy. Some cat won...

And Carl as an analyst, would heavily feel urges to ban some of Der_Echte's BH and write some of it in stone. I need to visit Cal again when he is not busy, a lot of my BH has big time improved along with FH since my days of NYC adventures.

I do not want to edit the post and make all the paragraph breaks, but would add that when opponent impacts that ball and before the ball travels a foot, one must SUBCONSCIOUSLY have figured this out. Tring to consciously think about anything more complex than wait... NOW (for just one example)...

Everyone has presented info that is more articulate and better organized than many pro coaches' TT books. I can relate my own personal journey and spin and landing the ball. I got professional guidance a little bit in Korea for 4 years 20 minutes 2x a week... was mostly footwork lessons and...

Understand that these are both softer sponged modern rubbers. They both make very good spin, but operate differently. FX-S has a more dynamic sponge and a thinner feeling topsheet. I suspect the pimple structure is also different. On lower impacts this rubber is bouncier. FX-S is at its best on...

Ground Pound Likie.

There was a Kim Jung Hoon FH vid I linked and commented on 7-10 years ago (I think)> KJH was describing some basic biomechanics... he strongly advocated to turn the waist and ankles a little more on swing prep (to move your upper body rotated backwards some more) and use majority of uncoiling...

My answer to situation number one is to find a way to give variation. Spin Variation Pace Variation Arc Variation Depth Variation Angle Variation Time and point of impact Variation A second suggestion is in those topspin to topspin exchanges where you are not sure of incoming ball timing...

LDM7 for the first time I noticed found a way to relax more consistently... it showed in his increased quality and spin on opening shots. LDM7 nearly got into 12 different fights on the way back home with those California drivers. If I didn't talk LDM7 outta it, those dudes woulda been pounded...

On a contrary note, there is nothing more sneakier than a middle of the road ALL to ALL+ blade and a medium sponged rubber for COUNTER HITTING... such a setup makes it much easier to land those strong counter hits vs strong incoming balls. Potentially, there could be HUNDREDS of possible...

There is nothing more suitable for that style than a Schlager Carbon and a harder early gen tensor...now that SC is no longer made, maybe Sardius or Primorac Carbon and a sheet of Omega VII pro or similar hard sponges modern esn rubber.

Wing, I would avoid taping a bolt to the bottom, the vibration feedback feeling would be terrible. If you are not willing to take off a handle and fill in with glue and reinforcing material, then grip tape is about the only thing remaining to add weight to balance out the blade. If one does...

I do not attempt to remove the lens... I use a heat gun to SLOWLY (like take 5 minutes) heat up the handle, then slide in a thin knife to separate the handle. After that, you can fill everything in as much as you want. If you want less added weight, drop in a little hide glue, add some...