All wood Blade Choice?

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Generally speaking Stiga and Nittaku are best known for having a high level of touch and feel balanced with speed and spin ability. The Stiga Clipper series are good and also the Nittaku Violin and Acoustic which are marginally faster than Allround but have superb feeling.

Yep.. and I'm observing the reviews about the clipper wood... but.. it bothers me the number of its ply.... even though I do not know the difference between number of plies.
 
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Generally speaking Stiga and Nittaku are best known for having a high level of touch and feel balanced with speed and spin ability. The Stiga Clipper series are good and also the Nittaku Violin and Acoustic which are marginally faster than Allround but have superb feeling.

But Some say that the Stiga Clipper's outer veneer is to vulnerable that sometimes it easily breaks.. even when removing the glue.. is it true? if it is.. what should I do to make it more durable?
 
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But Some say that the Stiga Clipper's outer veneer is to vulnerable that sometimes it easily breaks.. even when removing the glue.. is it true? if it is.. what should I do to make it more durable?

Waterbased glue
Remove the rubber slowly
Avoid reglue-ing too much it becomes psychological

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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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ahhhh... but will it affect the blade's speed? and feeling?

It is a good idea to seal any blade. There are lots of ways to do it. I use Minwax Wipe On Poly. But anything that will seal the blade surface is fine. Most TT companies have some simple version. It will not change the way the blade plays to put a small amount of finish on the blade face on each side. Some blades come sealed when you get them. But most blades need to be sealed.
 
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It is a good idea to seal any blade. There are lots of ways to do it. I use Minwax Wipe On Poly. But anything that will seal the blade surface is fine. Most TT companies have some simple version. It will not change the way the blade plays to put a small amount of finish on the blade face on each side. Some blades come sealed when you get them. But most blades need to be sealed.
would any kind of wood varnish will do?
or maybe a small amount or thin layer of glue will do it..?
 
says Spin and more spin.
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would any kind of wood varnish will do?
or maybe a small amount or thin layer of glue will do it..?

Glue will not do it. Some people use hair spray. But any kind of varnish will do. The stuff that some of the TT manufacturers sell, that is water based and dries in about 10 min is really perfect. Easy to put on and more than enough. I like Minwax Wipe on Poly because you can add a super thin layer with a piece of cloth and once it is fully dry, the finish sinks into the wood and you can barely tell it is there.
 
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Glue will not do it. Some people use hair spray. But any kind of varnish will do. The stuff that some of the TT manufacturers sell, that is water based and dries in about 10 min is really perfect. Easy to put on and more than enough. I like Minwax Wipe on Poly because you can add a super thin layer with a piece of cloth and once it is fully dry, the finish sinks into the wood and you can barely tell it is there.

Ah.... I don't know anything about sealing it with varnish and never been heard of sealing a blade.. hehehe... Just now that I just got the idea from what you said :)
 
says Spin and more spin.
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says Spin and more spin.
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I used a very tiny bottle of Andro water based blade sealer and sealed maybe 15 blades before even using 1/2 of the tiny bottle. You do not need much at all. Just spread it on very thin and even. dries faster than 10 minutes if coat is light.

Just about anyone's blade sealer will do the job for you if you do it thin and careful.

If your friend has problems with bleeding, a tourniquet to the neck will stop all bleeding.

In TT EJism, applying a tourniquet to the wallet shuts down EJism. :)
 
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