Aligning Hurricane 3 after re-boosting

[Amayzde]

Hi folks!

I have finally done it! I couldn't help myself any longer and bought a sheet of Hurricane 3 Blue Sponge (provincial) with some booster (Haifu Seamoon National White for anyone curious).

I added 1 layer, let it dry for 24 hours, and then added a second one and let it dry for another 24 hours. I don't know if it was necessary to wait the full 24 hours between layers, but thats just what I did. The rubber curled like crazy. This made it quite difficult to align the rubber properly. And even though it was aligned quite poorly for my standards, you barely notice it after cutting.

But I realise that after some time when the boosting effect starts to run out, I will have to take the rubber off, add a new layer of booster and then glue te rubber back onto the blade.

Does anyone have tips on how to properly align a curled H3 thats already been cut?

 

[lodro]

I use some of the high gloss white paper that comes with some rubbers and cut a template of my blade.
Once the glue has dried I apply the template on to the blade. The paper has the bottom 15mm cut off and I cover that part with an extra strip of the white paper.
Now I align the rubber on top of the paper.
Then i take the extra-bottom strip away and fix the bottom part of the rubber on to the blade.
Next I grab the top of the rubber with one hand, lift it up, remove the template from the blade. Still holding the rubber away from the blade I now grab my roller and roll the reminder of the rubber on to the blade.

Everything sounds and is complicated until you have done it a 100 times then it is just like tying shoelaces

 

[igorponger]

Dry boosting with a spherical roller will save you troubles a lot. It is safe to use, no expansion on rubber material at all.

Be happy all.

 

[ttarc]

Hi folks!

I have finally done it! I couldn't help myself any longer and bought a sheet of Hurricane 3 Blue Sponge (provincial) with some booster (Haifu Seamoon National White for anyone curious).

I added 1 layer, let it dry for 24 hours, and then added a second one and let it dry for another 24 hours. I don't know if it was necessary to wait the full 24 hours between layers, but thats just what I did. The rubber curled like crazy. This made it quite difficult to align the rubber properly. And even though it was aligned quite poorly for my standards, you barely notice it after cutting.

But I realise that after some time when the boosting effect starts to run out, I will have to take the rubber off, add a new layer of booster and then glue te rubber back onto the blade.

Does anyone have tips on how to properly align a curled H3 thats already been cut?

Usually I do it like it's show in this video

Takes a bit practice and can be a bit of a hassle but the results are most of the time OK.

 

[Jslick89]

I struggle with this too lol. @lodro can you post a video of this??
Basically i jsut try my best and start from the bottom. Also, when you boost and the rubber expands...don't trim off the excess if you can help it. It will make it easier to realign when you do another boosting in 2-3 months.

 

[lodro]

Usually I do it like it's show in this video

Takes a bit practice and can be a bit of a hassle but the results are most of the time OK.

horrible job with lots of "wobbles" in the black rubber. 🤣

the method shown in the video is fine when the rubber is so much larger than the blade. My suggested technique is needed only when the rubbers are virtually the same size as the blade and the laying down of the rubber exactly becomes much more critical.

 

[M4rc0H]

I use some of the high gloss white paper that comes with some rubbers and cut a template of my blade.

Alternatively, you can also use parchment paper, sandwich paper or wax paper.

 

[God-scrubplayer]

Hi folks!

I have finally done it! I couldn't help myself any longer and bought a sheet of Hurricane 3 Blue Sponge (provincial) with some booster (Haifu Seamoon National White for anyone curious).

I added 1 layer, let it dry for 24 hours, and then added a second one and let it dry for another 24 hours. I don't know if it was necessary to wait the full 24 hours between layers, but thats just what I did. The rubber curled like crazy. This made it quite difficult to align the rubber properly. And even though it was aligned quite poorly for my standards, you barely notice it after cutting.

But I realise that after some time when the boosting effect starts to run out, I will have to take the rubber off, add a new layer of booster and then glue te rubber back onto the blade.

Does anyone have tips on how to properly align a curled H3 thats already been cut?

boosting effect doesnt run out. No coaches, pros, serious play reboost their h3. You stick it on there and it last until it bubble and you change a new sheet. if you are not good enough to bubble your h3 then keep playing it until it does.

 

[Der_Echte]

Sergey the Tsos would know, maybe someone PM him to keep this a secret.

@Jslick89 understands exactly what I'm sayin'.

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

boosting effect doesnt run out. No coaches, pros, serious play reboost their h3. You stick it on there and it last until it bubble and you change a new sheet. if you are not good enough to bubble your h3 then keep playing it until it does.

really?
then I must be seeing things for the past decade

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

Hi folks!

I have finally done it! I couldn't help myself any longer and bought a sheet of Hurricane 3 Blue Sponge (provincial) with some booster (Haifu Seamoon National White for anyone curious).

I added 1 layer, let it dry for 24 hours, and then added a second one and let it dry for another 24 hours. I don't know if it was necessary to wait the full 24 hours between layers, but thats just what I did. The rubber curled like crazy. This made it quite difficult to align the rubber properly. And even though it was aligned quite poorly for my standards, you barely notice it after cutting.

But I realise that after some time when the boosting effect starts to run out, I will have to take the rubber off, add a new layer of booster and then glue te rubber back onto the blade.

Does anyone have tips on how to properly align a curled H3 thats already been cut?

What I do when I remove to reboost (some times reboost stretching the rubber way bigger than the first boost, so you will need to cut it).
I lay the topsheet onto the blade (blade without glue) and just to have an idea of size matching.

I am a Cpen, so my placement is more difficult as I leave a gap to my handle.

So once you have a grasp on size, and with experience, I just go from closer to handle and lay it down.
from matching, you can see if you will have a good coverage, or maybe need to go to a certain angle.

the part of laying a paper on blade is okay when it is a new sheet. If the paper covers the blade, it is difficult to put down. So cut the paper to the size of the blade, but still, there will be sections where paper and blade won't match when you pull the paper upwards. So I won't advise using paper on blade for regluing.
Also, 1 layer is too little for H3, go at least 2 layers.
the 1 layer dries too quickly, 2 layers will last longer, so your reboost period will be further away..

The drying time, is all up to you and your preference.
the lesser drying time, the rubber will be faster. and while it dries up further (after glue) it will also settle down.
its all about what feeling you prefer.
I know players who like fast, and they will change the rubber on weekly basis.

 

[JJ Ng]

I agree that when you reboost, your sponge will expand so you might need to cut the extra edge off.

Or sometimes I get lazy and I simply line the straight bottom of the rubber a bit further up into the paddle so the rubber does get a bit smaller (and I like lighter paddles anyway).

I don't have OCD so my method is pretty simple.

 

[mihalichtheone]

boosting effect doesnt run out. No coaches, pros, serious play reboost their h3. You stick it on there and it last until it bubble and you change a new sheet. if you are not good enough to bubble your h3 then keep playing it until it does.

h3 becomes dead in 1-4 weeks depending on how much a person plays.
My friend is a chemist and he made booster based on the patent that someone posted on this forum (I am quite busy these days and will test it soon).

There's no way the booster can last indefinitely: it has sodium bicarobonate, which reacts with the air in the sponge pores and produces the CO2, which acts as a 'trampoline' effect and of course it dissipates after some time with all the hitting you do with the rubber. Other components (like wax or oils) are there just to soften the sponge.

Pros boost their rubbers and in 1 week probably just throw it away and boost new rubber.

 

[God-scrubplayer]

DO NOT reboost your rubber. That advice is trash. Once you boost your rubber and stick it on the paddle. ONLY take the rubber off if you are changing new rubber and that's it. DO NOT fking ej around this ej around that thinking reboosting is going to be better this and better that and fk up everything. I've done this whole 9 miles.

This is a vid of former CTN

he basically said the same thing as i did. You boost once, play it till you bubble or want to change rubber and that's it. The rubber STAYS on the paddle for the lifespan.

For people who wanna know why?
1. If you take rubber off, the rubber shrinks and make it impossible to align it perfectly like you once did.
2. Shrinking rubber != rubber become harder, so reboosting it will simply soften the rubber and make it even more dead
3. Your paddle have a life span too, the more you put waterbase glue on your paddle the softer it becomes. So to preserve the lifespan of your racket, glue rubber on it as little times as possible.

 

[Rao01]

DO NOT reboost your rubber. That advice is trash. Once you boost your rubber and stick it on the paddle. ONLY take the rubber off if you are changing new rubber and that's it. DO NOT fking ej around this ej around that thinking reboosting is going to be better this and better that and fk up everything. I've done this whole 9 miles.

This is a vid of former CTN

he basically said the same thing as i did. You boost once, play it till you bubble or want to change rubber and that's it. The rubber STAYS on the paddle for the lifespan.

For people who wanna know why?
1. If you take rubber off, the rubber shrinks and make it impossible to align it perfectly like you once did.
2. Shrinking rubber != rubber become harder, so reboosting it will simply soften the rubber and make it even more dead
3. Your paddle have a life span too, the more you put waterbase glue on your paddle the softer it becomes. So to preserve the lifespan of your racket, glue rubber on it as little times as possible.

That's a really long video. I wish there was some translation to understand what exactly is being said.

 

[Lazer]

That's a really long video. I wish there was some translation to understand what exactly is being said.

I’m kind of with scrub man on this. I boost once and then play. But I boost lightly. The change happens gradually ( of you use seamoon ) and it’s really easy to adjust. I then play it for -6 months. At the end it’s really trashy but it works for me.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[netdriver]

i use the same method as lodro

sometimes instead of parchment paper/wax paper/whatever i use the rubber protector sheets too out of convenience, but paper is easier to adjust

 

[Tyce]

i use the same method as lodro

sometimes instead of parchment paper/wax paper/whatever i use the rubber protector sheets too out of convenience, but paper is easier to adjust

I started doing this too recently and it works great for me. The one caveat I have with the white glossy sheet is it can be hard to see if the alignment is good. I kinda go by feel, and once it's good I stick the bottom bit down.