Backhand rubbers? Is d09c too much for a beginner-intermediate player?

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I've personally not found that to be the case, but I guess it's all relative.

My goal is to change the rubbers after 6 months to tie in with the major events in the UK.

That is normally in September, just before the league starts (which runs through to March/April), and again in January/February time to coincide with the annual tournaments.

In only a year of testing, I've found D09c to last the time quite comfortably, and could have probably squeezed out a bit more time if I had wanted to.



Yeah, all Tenergy/Dignics or any other fast rubber (Tibhar Evo line etc) should all be avoided if you are a beginner in my opinion.

Whilst I will say that D09c is probably the rubber that I *would* recommend to lower level players (if I had to choose one of the "expensive" Butterfly rubbers), the cost alone is not worth it when a beginner won't be able to get much out of it.

I think D09c can work for intermediate players who can loop - It's SO much more controlled than the likes of D05 or T05 that I think it's viable option.

But cost wise..... I just don't see the point unless you are:

1. Very rich
2. Can hit a good loop
NHD,

I feel pretty much the same way, but I am serious, I would not be able to use diginiski series for what it is worth until I play it 6 months. I would need that to adjust my impact.

Otoh, I can take a 3rd gen tensor like Tinhar Aurus and be such a boss of pace and spin, or pure spin when I want it.

A player's current and future impact is important.
 
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And nobody is telling him why an FZD ALC is probably too much difficult to handle for a beginner intermediate player FIRST ? To me beginner-intermediate should not use carbon blades, period.

When he'll slow down and use a more friendly blade for his level, then he'll be able to choose the right rubbers for his backhand.
 
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It might change a little bit. I always boost it a little to get the softer feeling, so I have might forgotten how it is to play without the booster :)
Well I found that BD on my BH was dying a little bit, so I decided to add a single layer of booster last night. Today I found that it was quite a bit more lively and performed better for me. I wonder if I should go for another layer.
 
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And nobody is telling him why an FZD ALC is probably too much difficult to handle for a beginner intermediate player FIRST ? To me beginner-intermediate should not use carbon blades, period.

When he'll slow down and use a more friendly blade for his level, then he'll be able to choose the right rubbers for his backhand.
I would be inclined to strongly agree with your view on this... for the primary reasons that you know when you strike it right and you are forced to use good leverage to play strong shots... maybe a third is you feel the ball.

However, there is no single absolute answer in tt. Some ways that appear counter intuitive can work well.

I have seen some coaches start players out with blazing fast setups that would pop your eyes out... like an OFF++ Schlager Carbon with mid firm 2nd gen tensor rubbers... and within a month, they were banging it back and forth close to table 100 times without a miss, so go figure.

In this case, the coach knew that with this rocket setup, it was very easy to play fast close to the table with little spin. This kind of coach in their system doesn't teach spin until the player cracks the top ten percent of amateur players.
 
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Actually, the blade has proved a lot easier to control to me than my old Nittaku Acoustic. I do not know why, but the feeling the blade offers helped me control the ball a lot easier. My coach noticed that too the first time I've used it.
Although, when upgrading the blade, I went from Fastarc G-1 to C-1, not sure how much of a difference in control that would make since G-1 is not hard to control.

I appreciate the concern though :). Going back to my Acoustic with G-1 FH and R7 BH, I don't find it easier to use.

I've had one of the coaches at the club recommend me Acuda S2 for BH, because that's all he's been using for a decade. I believe that is a good rubber too, but I've been left wondering if there are better, more modern alternatives out there.

I had C-1 and S-1 on my Acoustic and hated it. Feels almost like the Acoustic had some built in catapult and on top of that the bouncy rubber made it unpredictable and uncomfortable.

You might want to try Chinese style or hybrid rubber on the Acoustic. I have cheap yinhe rubber on the Acoustic now and it feels way better.
 
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I had C-1 and S-1 on my Acoustic and hated it. Feels almost like the Acoustic had some built in catapult and on top of that the bouncy rubber made it unpredictable and uncomfortable.

You might want to try Chinese style or hybrid rubber on the Acoustic. I have cheap yinhe rubber on the Acoustic now and it feels way better.
Fastarc G1 works like a charm on my Acoustic outer carbon.
 
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I would be inclined to strongly agree with your view on this... for the primary reasons that you know when you strike it right and you are forced to use good leverage to play strong shots... maybe a third is you feel the ball.

However, there is no single absolute answer in tt. Some ways that appear counter intuitive can work well.

I have seen some coaches start players out with blazing fast setups that would pop your eyes out... like an OFF++ Schlager Carbon with mid firm 2nd gen tensor rubbers... and within a month, they were banging it back and forth close to table 100 times without a miss, so go figure.

In this case, the coach knew that with this rocket setup, it was very easy to play fast close to the table with little spin. This kind of coach in their system doesn't teach spin until the player cracks the top ten percent of amateur players.
I know a coach that goes the same way, like his students don't learn how to spin, till they get about 2000+, but if you get to that level by playing mostly flat or no spin, why you should be motivated to change it to more looping oriented style? Many of his students plays for 5-10 years, and still play not so good. In my opinion ability to spin helps a lot with a ball control, even serve receive, cuz you can't normally receive some heavy sidespin serves just by flat hit or touch. But again - every ones goes their own way, there is no one optimal for all
 
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And nobody is telling him why an FZD ALC is probably too much difficult to handle for a beginner intermediate player FIRST ? To me beginner-intermediate should not use carbon blades, period.

When he'll slow down and use a more friendly blade for his level, then he'll be able to choose the right rubbers for his backhand.
Look. People like telling others that something is not suitable for them based on statistics and word of mouth.
I have used a Nittaku Acoustic before and simply find the FZD ALC easier to control. That's me, not someone else.
Both rubbers I'm using are fine, I've just never liked the feel of soft rubbers and the dwell that comes with it.

If I flip my racket over and use tge C1 on the BH, it feels much better. I was simply looking for something spinnier as an alternative and I saw d09c widely being used, so I wanted to see what the fuss is all about.
 
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As for 09c on a backhand its a really good and controlled rubber, if you know how to spin, and building on your strategy on spiny serving. It’s easy to control in comparing with other bouncy rubbers, buts it’s kinda new style, most people prefer softer and bouncier rubber. I played for few months with 09c backhand - even the ball is not so fast, but more of them landing on other side of the table - on amateur level it’s better than, just pure speed shooting with no precision. If you like to play with FzD alc just go for it, especially if you regularly train with a coach, and playing a lot - you will adapt to it with some time. Same thing with 09c
 
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As for 09c on a backhand its a really good and controlled rubber, if you know how to spin, and building on your strategy on spiny serving. It’s easy to control in comparing with other bouncy rubbers, buts it’s kinda new style, most people prefer softer and bouncier rubber. I played for few months with 09c backhand - even the ball is not so fast, but more of them landing on other side of the table - on amateur level it’s better than, just pure speed shooting with no precision. If you like to play with FzD alc just go for it, especially if you regularly train with a coach, and playing a lot - you will adapt to it with some time. Same thing with 09c
Out of interest, how long did those sheets last (in terms of maintaining high performance)
 
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I know a coach that goes the same way, like his students don't learn how to spin, till they get about 2000+, but if you get to that level by playing mostly flat or no spin, why you should be motivated to change it to more looping oriented style? Many of his students plays for 5-10 years, and still play not so good. In my opinion ability to spin helps a lot with a ball control, even serve receive, cuz you can't normally receive some heavy sidespin serves just by flat hit or touch. But again - every ones goes their own way, there is no one optimal for all
This sentence really piqued my interest. And why do I say so?

Here's the thing.

1. In my mental picture, I have envisioned myself to be a Euro styled two wing looper or at least that is the direction I want to head towards. Maybe it looks cool to me, maybe I am a show-man, I don't know...

2. But when I watched the playback of my own match video, I am mostly a close to table counter-driving / hitting / blocking , i.e., the so called Japanese style ( T. Harimoto being the archetypal of this style as well as most of the Japanese female players ).

3. Some posters ( from another thread ) says I don't know how to spin the ball well. I am guilty as charged.

4. Now I come to the bolded sentence above. Thinking retrospectively, I recall something peculiar. In my coaching session, whenever I tried to spin or heavy loop my FH, my coach will says don't over loop. Baby spin is ok, heavy spin and you make the ball slow & spinny. I want you to hit more / drive more. It would appears my coach prefers speed over spin. I don't know why? Maybe he sees more value in speed / drive over spin.

5. Looking back at point Nos. 4, this could be a reason why I am not a spin oriented player as seen in my match video and it seems my coach has something to do with it.

6. Thanks to the original poster for bringing up this point and helped me to retrospectively unearth why I am not so good at spinning the ball.
 
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I know a coach that goes the same way, like his students don't learn how to spin, till they get about 2000+, but if you get to that level by playing mostly flat or no spin, why you should be motivated to change it to more looping oriented style? Many of his students plays for 5-10 years, and still play not so good. In my opinion ability to spin helps a lot with a ball control, even serve receive, cuz you can't normally receive some heavy sidespin serves just by flat hit or touch. But again - every ones goes their own way, there is no one optimal for all
Yeah. If you play against players using that same technique all the time, you might get high ranking points. It's like being a sprinter and you are really good at running and been running straight for many years. All of a sudden you are about to run a hurdle-race, and can't understand why you end up last and your balls hurt so much :D
 
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Out of interest, how long did those sheets last (in terms of maintaining high performance)
They are lasting for a long time: 6-7 months forehand minimum, and still maintain a lot of grip and quality, cuz i have really hard forehands. I only changing because i have buy about 10 09c, or so. I guess, most amateurs, can used it for more than a year. For backhand durability are even better, because my backhand didn’t have so much power, i mostly trying to open up with it, and spin, opposite to forehand that im trying to power loop with.
Don’t get misunderstood by one thing that 09c has - it’s quickly lose it’s shining, in comparing to D05 and even D80. But those lose of a shine, don’t bother playing characteristics at all. Hard sponge also lasts very long, there is no cracking on the sides, even after 6-7 months, like softer tenergys always do after a month. So in my humble opinion, for an amateur, it should be even more beneficial to invest in a rubber that last for year+, than changing to 3 of a different brands rubbers a year. But again, this rubber is made for spin, for flat hitting there are better options
 
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Any haters of Tibhar MX-P after a month old think it is bad can send their used up worthless sheets of MX-P to Sergey Tsos @theRealTsos and he will gladly pay international postage...

He will slap that worn out dead mx-p on his Ovtcharov Carbon and spin like no tomorrow.
 
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Gozo, at your level AND up to TEN levels more, if you can spin the ball slow and heavy either deep or shallow, you will be such a boss.

That stuff throws the visual and timing so off even many 2300 level (top 5 percent of all players) will be under 50 percent countering it.
 
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Gozo, at your level AND up to TEN levels more, if you can spin the ball slow and heavy either deep or shallow, you will be such a boss.

That stuff throws the visual and timing so off even many 2300 level (top 5 percent of all players) will be under 50 percent countering it.
85EF76B3-F23D-4884-9D84-9514AB64A8B7.jpeg

I like being da Badazz BOSS. I luv the sound of it. I'm gunna be spinning like DA BOSS going forth!
 
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