best glue?

says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Hmm, I call solvent based glues speedglue, and Seamoon and Falco booster, but you're right the bottles are similar.
I know that it is confusing and neither the manufacturers nor the shop owners that sell the crap are helping in any way to cause clarity. NOT all solvent based based glues have the speed -glue action build into them. There is Voc- glue and then there is Voc-speed glue.
The voc glue will leave a layer of semi-rubbery clear substance on both the blade and the rubbers. Same as the waterbased glues do.
The speed glue however is different, it firstly does NOT glue the rubber to the blade and secondly it will give the so drastically desired changes to the sponge.
It will leave a nearly invisible thin film on the surfaces but nothing like the glues.
 
I started using the Revolution 3, as my wood cabinet increased, the 100ml format became too small for me, so I tried the Dandoy glue, then the normal Kontra and now I have bought the 5l can of it. If you don't mind that it isn´t VOC-free, the one from Kontra is very fast and at a very good price. I would like to try the cheapest of all, which seems to be the most used in China, the Haifu, but in a 1-liter format, I think Only Alibaba sends it to Spain and I don't want to get involved with the minimum order and that they send me a pallet of 200 bottles instead of 3l, for example ( it is not easy to understand the chinese) . What I can say is that with successive layers the speed increases a lot. -My advice is to try different small formats of 100 or 50 ml, until you find one that works for you. In my club there are people who use the rubbers for 4 or 5 years, it's incredible......
 
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I've been using the Donic Blue for a few years now. Love it. You only need one coat and it sticks even boosted curved rubbers. Removing rubber is easy and can even restick without applying more glue.

I don't understand how people like Revolution. I hated it. It didn't stick at all and I had to use 3+ layers to get any adhesion. Also if you have curved rubber from boosting it will not stick and edges will curl up. Removing it was impossible and I would rip up my sponges. It was the worst glue I've ever used.

Oh, and I've tried Haifu before. It was junk. Basically water with a little adhesive in it. Totally useless.
Agree. I am having a big issues with Revolution 3. Chinese rubber curled up and C-1 and Rakza 7 white sponge do not work well with Revolution 3.

I am trying out Neottec glue v.s. Butterfly Free Chack 2 Pro right now.

Revolution 3 normal = least viscosity. That is only one I have tried and I do not recommend that. If you want to try Revolution 3, then try medium or thick viscosity.
 
says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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Chinese rubber curled up
can y6ou please elaborate on the curling up.
I get some real drastic curling after i remove the rubber from the blade .
It happens mainly with H3.
It is like strong boosting but the wrong way around.
NOT like this:
IMG20230609142445.jpg
 
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I've been using the Donic Blue for a few years now. Love it. You only need one coat and it sticks even boosted curved rubbers. Removing rubber is easy and can even restick without applying more glue.

I don't understand how people like Revolution. I hated it. It didn't stick at all and I had to use 3+ layers to get any adhesion. Also if you have curved rubber from boosting it will not stick and edges will curl up. Removing it was impossible and I would rip up my sponges. It was the worst glue I've ever used.

Oh, and I've tried Haifu before. It was junk. Basically water with a little adhesive in it. Totally useless.


I finished 2 botles of Revolution already and never experiences problems you mentioned. Rubbers always stick to blade without any problem with only 1 layer, removing very easy and easy to peel glue off from blade. Before I was using Donic and it was impossible to remove glue from rubber
 
says Fair Play first
says Fair Play first
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E255 is the best practical solution.


It feels much like a shaving cream, high viscosity easy to spread the glue over. Just infil some food thicker into latex milk. Starchy powder will not work well, thought. as being insoluble in cold water,.
E255 is the very stuff to improve standard latex glue.

Be happy all.
 
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I finished 2 botles of Revolution already and never experiences problems you mentioned. Rubbers always stick to blade without any problem with only 1 layer, removing very easy and easy to peel glue off from blade. Before I was using Donic and it was impossible to remove glue from rubber
Do you seal your blades? My blades are always sealed and the glue doesn't stick at all.
 
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Do you seal your blades? My blades are always sealed and the glue doesn't stick at all.
Yes, I varnish them because a colleague gave me a Donic Persson and when removing a rubber, splinters appeared all over one side, also on a yinhe t11 +. I use Joola varnish. I have not had any problems again, the rubbers come off easily. I like to collect rackets and it hurts my soul to see them broken.....
 
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Yes, I varnish them because a colleague gave me a Donic Persson and when removing a rubber, splinters appeared all over one side, also on a yinhe t11 +. I use Joola varnish. I have not had any problems again, the rubbers come off easily. I like to collect rackets and it hurts my soul to see them broken.....
Well I use polyurethan sealer and it doesn't stick to it at all. But the Donic blue sticks great.
 
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Well I use polyurethan sealer and it doesn't stick to it at all. But the Donic blue sticks great.
Yes, those require "special" glue. I think Donic Formula First is the preferred glue for varnished blades. There is a Donic Formula varnish and conveniently the varnish and the necessary glue are named identically.
 
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Yes, those require "special" glue. I think Donic Formula First is the preferred glue for varnished blades. There is a Donic Formula varnish and conveniently the varnish and the necessary glue are named identically.
I didn't think Donic Blue was anything special. It just works great for me. I bought a whole liter bottle.
 
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