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best glue?
- Thread starter FrenchFrog33
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It looks like that the Sueke No1 & No2 glues have been taken off the market. Up to now, I was quite happy with the Sueke glue as it was easy to pull off the glue from the rubber.
Anyone has tried the Ryukyu Blue Waterbased Glue? Perhaps it's only temporary and it comes back to the store. Otherwise I'll go back back to DHS No 15.
Anyone has tried the Ryukyu Blue Waterbased Glue? Perhaps it's only temporary and it comes back to the store. Otherwise I'll go back back to DHS No 15.
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Strange that it has disappeared - I am just onto my second bottle and have found it pretty good.
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I'm in the middle of 1 green bottle, and meantime ordered another 5 (4 green, 1 blue) and received already.
Lucky me!
Lucky me!
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Well done mate. Lucky you!I'm in the middle of 1 green bottle, and meantime ordered another 5 (4 green, 1 blue) and received already.
Lucky me!
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Yes Butterfly is the strongest. Some of my blades were lacquered "too much" by the manufacturer so the rubber has a hard time sticking to the blade. When I use Butterfly glue, it is much better (it still does not stick a couple times and I have to retry).
Let us put it in a different way. How much is the rubber? Let us say it is Dignics. That's $83. If it is Donic A1 that's $62.50 (and with 30% bulk discount, it is still $43.75). The cheapest ESN rubber? Xiom Vega series at $40 a sheet (and with 30% bulk discount it is now $28).
How much is a bottle of glue?
Do not try to save money on the glue. It is not worth it. I have never had people complain that the glue works so well that they cannot take the rubber off the blade now. When it was VOC glue, yes, sometimes when you rip the rubber off, the sponge gets left behind. But now it is water-based glue, ripping the rubber off the blade is super easy.
When you do a poor glue job, literally pockets of the blade or the top 1/3 of your blade has no glue on it and ball does NOT bounce. How annoying is that? Then when you take the rubber off to reglue again, you better pray that it works the second time but or else you might need to throw the rubber away. You might have to trash a brand new rubber!
Again how much does a bottle of glue cost?
There you go. That's your answer.
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You are right, the glue is part of the racket and must be of good quality. I used Revolution No3 and it was good on the Yasaka max carbon 3D, but it does not hold well on the H301, both are varnished and sanded, rubber was H3 Neo Comercial
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I realized that H3 Neo (maybe it's due to dense, not porous sponge) has a problem in sticking to the blade. I guess that's due to booster (so probably this might be the case with other boostered rubbers), I checked it on couple of my blades with different quality of finish and with different glues and issue appear. Of course it's better with Sueke no2 than DHS #15 due to Sueke no2 has better/stronger adhesive bond. For esn/jpn rubbers w/o booster, there is no issue both with DHS #15 and with Sueke2.
I'm not using german glues anymore, sorry, they destroy sponge, if you want to re-glue rubbers on your other blades for testing/checking purpose. They are good in terms, to glue until the rubber will be dead and change.
That's ok, but if you want to change more often then I would not recommend them.
I still have 1/2 bottle of BTF Free Chack and I'm not gonna use it.
I'm not using german glues anymore, sorry, they destroy sponge, if you want to re-glue rubbers on your other blades for testing/checking purpose. They are good in terms, to glue until the rubber will be dead and change.
That's ok, but if you want to change more often then I would not recommend them.
I still have 1/2 bottle of BTF Free Chack and I'm not gonna use it.
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Neeeh, I have been gluing H3 and H3neo for years on all kind of blades and never had a problem with them coming off.
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I checked it on FZD ALC, Nittaku Acoustic, Joola Vyzaryz HRD, Joola ZQH-90 and Stiga Inspira Plus, on each of them was similar, on ZQH-90 the worst as seems that it has the best finish. When I pull off the rubber, there isn't any single spot of glue on the blade, it's smooth af, everything is on the rubber. Of course the worst is on the edges because it's due to curl up, going forward if all glue is on the rubber not on the blade, then pressing the edges with your hands which is always seen during tournaments on YT is useless, of course in my case as it will not stick again.
This is just my experience I shared not theoretical thoughts 🤷♂️
This is just my experience I shared not theoretical thoughts 🤷♂️
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I have absolutely no idea what you are trying to say re glue curling up. etc.
When i pull the rubbers off, there is also no glue on the blade but on the rubbers is an even smooth layer of glue.
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when I will find it on YT i will copy it here, don't have time to seek for it, now.
To clarify, maybe english is not perfect (I'm sure it's not but do my best) I'm surprised that you are not aware that boostered H3 neo is domed and curl up. If glued on the blade, it stick well, but with the time it starts to peel off on the edges, and I saw it several times when pros (mostly from China and those who use H3), put the blade on the table and with their own weight press on the edges (of course gentle), maybe I'm blind but i know what i see
To clarify, maybe english is not perfect (I'm sure it's not but do my best) I'm surprised that you are not aware that boostered H3 neo is domed and curl up. If glued on the blade, it stick well, but with the time it starts to peel off on the edges, and I saw it several times when pros (mostly from China and those who use H3), put the blade on the table and with their own weight press on the edges (of course gentle), maybe I'm blind but i know what i see
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Yes, I know what you mean now. I do boost my rubbers too but only lightly. When I learned to boost I read that in between layers of boost one must wait 8 to 12 hours and 24 hours after the last layer of boost. At that time the booster has fully dried and the dome has actually started to flatten out again partly.when I will find it on YT i will copy it here, don't have time to seek for it, now.
To clarify, maybe english is not perfect (I'm sure it's not but do my best) I'm surprised that you are not aware that boostered H3 neo is domed and curl up. If glued on the blade, it stick well, but with the time it starts to peel off on the edges, and I saw it several times when pros (mostly from China and those who use H3), put the blade on the table and with their own weight press on the edges (of course gentle), maybe I'm blind but i know what i see
The worst one can do is apply glue over booster that has not dried fully. Then the glue will not fully cure either and one will never have a really strong bond.
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I recently bought a bottle of Ryukyu glue since it's quite inexpensive. I don't like the consistency of it, it's very very veeery watery. It sticks fine tho and comes off super easily, I put 4 layers on rubber and 1 on blade.
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I won't, because the price, together with the Ciniano special delivery postage cost has made it much more expensive than
DHS 15, by 30 %
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