DHS Blade card ratings

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Can someone explain what the ratings on DHS cards mean?
Especially the bottom 3 measures. How do they affect play and is it material?

thanks

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Can someone explain what the ratings on DHS cards mean?
Especially the bottom 3 measures. How do they affect play and is it material?

thanks

red_card.jpg

I am not sure if you read chinese, I am a native mandarin chinese speaker and I can translate what it literally says although I am not sure what the measures mean exactly in the scientific sense. The following is my best guess:

Third last measure: means literally "point of balance" it says 130mm for all 3 cards. Maybe thats the distance from the handle to where the racquet would be balanced by putting a finger underneath the racquet?

Second last measure: means literally "bounce height" presumably how high a ball bounces after free fall and then hitting the blade from a certain standardised height

Last measure: means literally "rebound speed reduction ratio" not really sure...obviously has something to do with how "bouncy" the racquet is

Hope I am not way off, please someone else help out, if you understand chinese and what these measures mean exactly
 
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thanks MegaZZ.

So the last two measures are basically measures of speed?
rebound speed reduction ratio - this sounds like percentage of energy lost, so higher the %, more energy is lost after contact resulting in a slower blade?

When I'm picking out a DHS blade, should I take into consideration these parameters?

DHS blade experts here, please shed some light on this. :confused:
 
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There are so many contradicting explanation of the terms from the web but my understanding after gathering info from DHS is that the "Balance Point" is the distance from geometric centre to the tip of blade. Closer to the head means better offensive power, more to the middle means all round and further back means better defence.


Bounce height needs no explanation I suppose.


The last number is harder to comprehend and cause the most confusion. It literally translate as "Rebound Speed Decay Rate". It has nothing to do with speed of ball but how fast the blade change its shape and back itself. Higher the number means stronger attack continuously. Some say CNT use blades above 70%.


The photo post with the same set of numbers (130,224,68%) across the batch actually means they are fakes. It should be hard to find two with the same set of data in real life.
 
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There are so many contradicting explanation of the terms from the web but my understanding after gathering info from DHS is that the "Balance Point" is the distance from geometric centre to the tip of blade. Closer to the head means better offensive power, more to the middle means all round and further back means better defence.


Bounce height needs no explanation I suppose.


The last number is harder to comprehend and cause the most confusion. It literally translate as "Rebound Speed Decay Rate". It has nothing to do with speed of ball but how fast the blade change its shape and back itself. Higher the number means stronger attack continuously. Some say CNT use blades above 70%.


The photo post with the same set of numbers (130,224,68%) across the batch actually means they are fakes. It should be hard to find two with the same set of data in real life.


Thanks for the clarification TurboZ.

So as an amateur player, the Rebound Speed Decay Rate shouldn't really affect my choice of blade.
A blade with 60% vs 70% blade should not differ too much in continuous attack?

Has anyone tested blades with different % and found a material difference in their game?
 
says Spin and more spin.
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Not sure if the information being the same means they are fake or not. That may be the case. Or DHS may just put the same number for those three categories on all HL5 blades based on only measuring one blade. Especially if those are the "commercial" version of the HL5 and not a W997 or W968. But, maybe they do actually take those measurements on each separate blade.

Regardless of whether the blades are real and DHS took a shortcut or the blades are not real, I would say this:

I would not decide whether to buy or not to buy any blade based on those numbers. That would probably be an even worse idea than trying to rely on the type of blade review that gives simple information like: "this is the best blade ever! I love it." From an unknown source.

The true, best way to tell if a blade or a setup would be good for you would be to try it. Of course that is not always possible. But when you play at a club with other tournament level players, there are always many people with many different rackets. If you are looking for a new setup and wanting something that will be really good for you, it is worth asking anyone you hit with if you can take a 2 min knock with their racket to see what it plays like. If you do that, every so often, someone will hand you a racket that you instantly feel is really nice, maybe even special; once in a while you will hit with something that clicks and feels magical for you. Often one of those, may be a good racket for you to use yourself. And it is important to know, if you try 20 rackets from players who understand equipment and are using something that is really good for them, of those 20 rackets, it could be that 10-20 of them make you think: "this is the one I want."

But all you need is 1. [emoji2] So it is nice to know that there are many good rackets and setups that would be good FOR YOU, even though there are many many rackets that are fancy, expensive and probably not right FOR YOU!--even if they are good for someone else.


Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia
 
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Not sure if the information being the same means they are fake or not. That may be the case. Or DHS may just put the same number for those three categories on all HL5 blades based on only measuring one blade. Especially if those are the "commercial" version of the HL5 and not a W997 or W968. But, maybe they do actually take those measurements on each separate blade.

Regardless of whether the blades are real and DHS took a shortcut or the blades are not real, I would say this:

I would not decide whether to buy or not to buy any blade based on those numbers. That would probably be an even worse idea than trying to rely on the type of blade review that gives simple information like: "this is the best blade ever! I love it." From an unknown source.

The true, best way to tell if a blade or a setup would be good for you would be to try it. Of course that is not always possible. But when you play at a club with other tournament level players, there are always many people with many different rackets. If you are looking for a new setup and wanting something that will be really good for you, it is worth asking anyone you hit with if you can take a 2 min knock with their racket to see what it plays like. If you do that, every so often, someone will hand you a racket that you instantly feel is really nice, maybe even special; once in a while you will hit with something that clicks and feels magical for you. Often one of those, may be a good racket for you to use yourself. And it is important to know, if you try 20 rackets from players who understand equipment and are using something that is really good for them, of those 20 rackets, it could be that 10-20 of them make you think: "this is the one I want."

But all you need is 1. [emoji2] So it is nice to know that there are many good rackets and setups that would be good FOR YOU, even though there are many many rackets that are fancy, expensive and probably not right FOR YOU!--even if they are good for someone else.


Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia

+1 I totally agree with UpsideDownCarl, the numbers are not important! I actually have a DHS Hurricane Hao II blade (which came with a numbers card like the one shown in the opening post) and a DHS Hurricane Long W997 which came with actually no such card. I have never even looked at the card actually, I got to know the blades just by playing with both of them. I actually seriously doubt DHS does a careful job of measuring each separate blade anyway...
 
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The matter of fake HL5 had been around China and Hong Kong for sometime. There are lower than wholesale HL5 in taobao and later brick and mortar shops which raise buyers suspicion. Some sent the blade back to DHS for clarification and got official reply that the serial did not exist in their system and considered fakes. One telltale is the same set of data (130, 224, 68%) and smaller than usual Ma Long signature on the red card. The photo I believe is from one of the forum thread that talks about this.

Afterall those numbers does not indicate whether a blade is good or bad but only showing its characteristic. It is like someone prefer a blade that is less head heavy, less vibration, stiff and so on but some might prefer the total opposite. It is as simple as some prefer 75g and some over 90g. So there is no best number but one that suits your style.
 
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Thanks guys.

I wish DHS hadn't released these measures as it does play with your mind if you get a lower scored blade, placebo effect so to speak. :p

Hopefully like in a drug trial, once you know your the "sugar pill" the placebo effect will start to wear off :) Have fun playing, less worrying about DHS ratings!
 
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I am not sure if you read chinese, I am a native mandarin chinese speaker and I can translate what it literally says although I am not sure what the measures mean exactly in the scientific sense. The following is my best guess:

Third last measure: means literally "point of balance" it says 130mm for all 3 cards. Maybe thats the distance from the handle to where the racquet would be balanced by putting a finger underneath the racquet?

Second last measure: means literally "bounce height" presumably how high a ball bounces after free fall and then hitting the blade from a certain standardised height

Last measure: means literally "rebound speed reduction ratio" not really sure...obviously has something to do with how "bouncy" the racquet is

Hope I am not way off, please someone else help out, if you understand chinese and what these measures mean exactly

Totally unrelated question. But I see that you use skyline 3 neo. I haven't tried that rubber before, I'm using skyline 2 neo. Can you tell me what the differences are between the two rubbers?
 
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Totally unrelated question. But I see that you use skyline 3 neo. I haven't tried that rubber before, I'm using skyline 2 neo. Can you tell me what the differences are between the two rubbers?


I have only tried Skyline 2 Neo once and only for about 2 weeks. Skyline 2 Neo felt tackier and a bit slower to me than Skyline 3. It seems to me that it places even more emphasis on spin and was even a bit less bouncier than Skyline 3 Neo although these characteristics seem to run pretty true for all DHS tacky rubbers. I felt like Skyline 2 Neo places a slightly higher demand to generate one's own power. Have to say it didn't suit my game well, as I am good at generating spin with chinese rubber and prefer a little more speed. I always felt Skyline rubbers are a bit faster than Hurricane rubbers although I am not sure if I could really tell the difference if I can't see the label on the rubber.
 
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HURRICANE LONG
序 列 号 :
AHABBAF 217
HL3-FL 18 12
产 品 技 术 测 试 值 :
在 标 准 条 件 下 ( 标 准 温 度 、 湿 度 ) 经 实 验 室 测 试 所 得 数 据
(38.151.19o
重 量 : 88.5 g
厚 度 : 6.38 mm
平 衡 点 123 mm
弹 跳 高 度 : 221 mm
反 弹 速 度 减 率 69%

HURRICANE LONG
Serial number :
AHABBAF 217
HL3-FL 18 12
Product technology Test values :
Under standard conditions ( standard temperature, humidity) Data obtained by laboratory testing
(38.151.19
Weight : 88.5 g
Thickness 6.38mm
Balance it out 123mm
Bounce height 221 mm
Rebound speed reduction rate 69%

69% is a value indicative of COR property for this given product. It is to evaluate the loss of the ball velocity upon impact.
A GREATER VALUE corresponds to A GREATER REBOUND SPEED.

Be happy.
 
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ZFT

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ZFT

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The translation of COR value is correct however you’ve interpreted the other way around.

The higher the value, the more the ball slows down or rate of decay.

To crassly simplify in this forums terminology:

Higher value = more dwell
Lower value = faster rebound speed

For context, users of HL5/W968 aim to achieve maximum spin by selecting a value at or above 68% while for HL5X/W968-8/Q968/S968 with its thicker core and composite layer pushed out further to the outer ply (while remaining an inner construction) it is normal for this range to be around or below 65% which gives a more crisp feel - usually resulting in more ease on the backhand side as it is mechanically a shorter snappier stroke vs FH side.
 
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