says
Inner Carbon is King
Edges of rubber not stuck down aswell?
- Thread starter DOMZ56
- Start date
Top ply sealed? -> sand it a little
Rubbers cut with scissors? -> learn to do it properly or use a cutting knife
You should not play with it that way and take it off and reglue it as soon as possible.
Staying with it will negatively affect playing and will increase the non sticky part quickly
Rubbers cut with scissors? -> learn to do it properly or use a cutting knife
You should not play with it that way and take it off and reglue it as soon as possible.
Staying with it will negatively affect playing and will increase the non sticky part quickly
says
Inner Carbon is King
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says
Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
says
Serve, top, edge. Repeat.
Active Member
It might not be well pressed down, get a book and put some even pressure on it, it might stick. If not then you should reglue it.
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says
Inner Carbon is King
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Just a little sanding.
When a blade is sealed too much (which often happens) it is too even and gentle touches can peel the rubber off.
A little sanding increases the surface and makes it rougher, holding the rubber better
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There could be several reasons for why the edges are not probably glued. If the blade is sealed, then as mentioned by others here, you could sand the blade to increase the surface roughness and thereby get a better bonding when applying the glue. When using glue with low viscosity it is a good idea to apply two layers of glue on the blade and rubber to get a proper adhesive between them.
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Alternatively you(or your friend) can get a stronger more reliable glue like Donic Formula First and reglue the rubber. It's non ammonia based, thin, and more reliable and easy to work with than many other ammonia latex glues I've tried.
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My problem is the blades I use are factory sealed and they do too good of a job. The top is often not stuck on properly.
I have not sanded my blade. My solution is to take the rubber off and do it again.
And that's why I moved away from Revolution 3 regular viscosity and I am now using Butterfly free Chack pro II, and put two layers on the blades and two layers on the rubber, with extra glue near the top.
Pressing it down is useless. In fact, I have abandoned my Revolution 3 racket pressor. It is useless. Unless you get the glue job right the first time it does not matter how long you press on it with the racker pressor: the result is the same. Racket pressor or putting heavy books on top of the racket after a glue job is a waste of time.
I have not sanded my blade. My solution is to take the rubber off and do it again.
And that's why I moved away from Revolution 3 regular viscosity and I am now using Butterfly free Chack pro II, and put two layers on the blades and two layers on the rubber, with extra glue near the top.
Pressing it down is useless. In fact, I have abandoned my Revolution 3 racket pressor. It is useless. Unless you get the glue job right the first time it does not matter how long you press on it with the racker pressor: the result is the same. Racket pressor or putting heavy books on top of the racket after a glue job is a waste of time.
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The other thing is to let the glue dry on both blade and rubber before doing putting the rubber on the blade (some use a blow dryer to quicken the process). Sometimes the glue being too wet let's the glue layers absorb each other without bonding so you don't get adhesion between the layers but a thick layer absorbed to either the blade or the rubber.
Takes patience if you don't have a blow drier but give it at least 20 minutes even if you are impatient. If you are patient, letting the rubber glue layer dry is best. Getting the positioning right the first time is important as if you need to move the rubber around on the blade, that affects the adhesion.
Takes patience if you don't have a blow drier but give it at least 20 minutes even if you are impatient. If you are patient, letting the rubber glue layer dry is best. Getting the positioning right the first time is important as if you need to move the rubber around on the blade, that affects the adhesion.
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Butterfly Free Chack Pro II is thick. Revolution 3 normal viscosity is thin and a bit "running." As a result, Butterfly Free Chack Pro II just dries a lot quicker than Revolution 3 normal viscosity if all conditions being equal.
I have no problem boosting. I just boost before going to bed and leave the rubber alone for 24 hours before applying another layer of booster the next day again. But when I am ready to glue the rubber onto the blade, I am a bit more impatient so I would like to use rubber that dries faster.
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Lol, maybe we should go out and buy some encyclopedia to put on the rubber! That way, our strategy will be more complicated when we play due to all the knowledge we get from the encyclopedia!not really - depends on which books. when i use the dictionary i play much more creative. when i use spicy magazines my shots are much more explosive
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maybe , maybe not. whether you only sand the edges or the whole blade, the most important thing is that when sanding use a block and make 100% sure you do not sand the edges round . I sand the whole surface when the blade surfaces have a high gloss from the varnishing. It is called breaking the gloss and as mentioned above, it allows the glue to key into the blade surface.
If the glue has been spread nicely and evenly and been given a chance to properly dry, then when the two surfaces are offered up to one-another it sticks like shit to a blanket, (as the saying goes) and using a press or books or a concrete- block is not really necessary. But it makes me feel good doing it, so i do it. 😁
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