Experience with some other Loki rubbers - Arthur China, GTX Pro (inc)

says Table tennis clown
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Why? Everybody says R9 is faster than H3, like a boosted H3
Sorry but you might have forgotten that with both LAC and R9 there was always the impression that there were at least 2 or 3 versions on the market simultaneously. Some bubbled , some did not . Some were hard some were bouncy some had their top rubber come off the sponge etc. etc. etc.
The ALC and R9s i got were like cardboard or hard leather and needed considerable force to play.
 
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Well what level are you and how hard do you hit?

Ive been hitting fh loops as hard as I can and it hasnt bubbled yet. But i think it may bubble sometime eventually
Not that high level, I play in the Swiss league so I don't really know how to compare my rating to TTR or USATT. I would say I'm a fairly average club player and I don't hit super hard either. At least I never had an unboosted rubber bubble in the second training session before 😅.

Anyhow, this evening I will try the R9. The topsheet bonding seems a lot better compared to the arthur china, so I have high(er) hopes.

@lodro Did you try the 39deg version of R9? Mine doesn't seem that hard but let's see how it feels in training.
 
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After 12 years using all kind of hurricanes, I switched to Rxton 9 and sometimes LAC on a fun blade now for nearly one year. I could switch easily from H3 to RXTON9 and back without any issues. I simply love Rxton9 for easier blocking and smashing. For month I have a 40.5 degree Rxton9 laying here ready to be tested, but the old sheet simply keeps its tack and appearance . This is something I do not like with the 2022+ H3 versions.

Are you boosting the R9 and comparing it to the boosted H3.
 
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says Table tennis clown
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@lodro Did you try the 39deg version of R9? Mine doesn't seem that hard but let's see how it feels in training.
Hallo Schwiitzerbuebly,
yes, i had the 39. The blue sponge was only 1.8mm thick and hard as leather. The problem with Loki is their quality control. Of the same name rubber they can come out with 2 or3 completely different rubbers
I hope you got a good one
 
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Are you boosting the R9 and comparing it to the boosted H3.
I played the R9 not boosted on my faster blade for quite some time, when I switched it to my tad slower blade I boosted with a thin layer kailin oil for additional kick. This was 3 month ago, as I am winning currently most of my matches I don’t feel like I need to boost again. On my faster blade I have a boosted H3. This setup I only use for training. It forces me to move better and trains my technique. When I want to win a match I switch to R9. It is safer in control game and whenever u are to lazy to move or not concentrated. Serves and short game are slightly better with the H3. It will be my last H3 rubber, so when I switch in 3-4 month this era will end.
 
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Hallo Schwiitzerbuebly,
yes, i had the 39. The blue sponge was only 1.8mm thick and hard as leather. The problem with Loki is their quality control. Of the same name rubber they can come out with 2 or3 completely different rubbers
I hope you got a good one
This is true, I ordered 60 pcs and got bricks. Luckily they replaced them but it took them ages.
 
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Ok, thanks. I hope it’s really similar and not similar like someone said Sanwei Target National is similar to H3Neo. No they are not. For me and my taste STN was a miss-understanding.
That's weird. The STN and the H3Neo are definitely not similar rubbers. About the only similarity they share is their tackiness. The STN is faster and with a really low throw. The STN is also mad durable. Still spinny even when the topsheet looks like a car ran over it. I mainly stopped using the STN because it's not a very forgiving rubber.
 
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That's weird. The STN and the H3Neo are definitely not similar rubbers. About the only similarity they share is their tackiness. The STN is faster and with a really low throw. The STN is also mad durable. Still spinny even when the topsheet looks like a car ran over it. I mainly stopped using the STN because it's not a very forgiving rubber.
Yes this is my experience. STN is much faster than H3, much lower throw, and also it has a much softer and porous sponge.

Target Pro 3 is similar to H3, and better in some ways.
 
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That's why my Telson 1000 has higher than super low throw. More like medium low
After one month... This rubber is beast on flexy 7 ply wood. High throw, super fast, super grip, the ball always come forward. Spin is great. On fast composite blades, there is no time to react on the ball to change direction, it is made for cnf or wood. 51 grams cut on 158-152
 
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Finally had a chance to have another brief hit with Loki's new Kirin 1 rubber, and the marginally faster version (just!) in the Kirin 3....

...and I gotta say, they're really not too bad at all for the money. That goes for both the Kirin 1 and 3.

They're both weird to use... But they're not bad rubbers at all. I would never use one during comp... But I also really kinda like them... The Kir1 in particular really grabbed me, which is odd, as it's the cheaper and slightly slower of the two

What both these rubbers drove home to me more than anything else (in flaming 20-foot high letters at that), is:

A -- a lot of people (ie: me) use tensor rubbers so much, they are actually at risk of forgetting how to play the game without their addictive speed boost;

B -- it is still actually possible to play a surprisingly damaging game (at club level at least) using completely linear non-tacky rubbers with no catapult effect whatsoever.... and:

C -- It is still the player and their sense of touch that matters most in producing spin, more than any other factor (no matter how much Butterfly / Andro / DHS etc would like us to think otherwise in order to sell us their next big thing)

Both these rubbers are IMHO, utterly brilliant technique coaches.

15 minutes of FH/BH driving and looping with a red Kirin 1 rubber in Max sponge on a light ALL ++ limba-outer blade, easily gave me as much constructive feedback and improvement of my sense of touch, as I would otherwise have received in five or six coaching sessions...

...but I'm getting ahead of myself a bit. Let's get back to the rubbers themselves, and the unique experience of using them, after years of me immersing myself in an insular, EJ-driven, tensor-sponge Disneyland.

Both the Kir1 and Kir3 share the same top sheet are true grippy rubbers in the purest sense -- no pseudo stickiness or hints of hybrid pretensions here.

The top sheets aren't remotely tacky or sticky at all -- they are however both quite firm, moderately grippy, very high quality, and from the look of them, extremely hard wearing. Not only are these things cheap to buy, I suspect with a little bit of TLC, a set will last you for years.

The sponge on both rubbers isn't anything to write home about: there's straight forward thick, hard, cake-ish traditional sponge on the Kir1, while the Kir3 sports some really firm, black-carbon sponge that looks like it's taken directly from a T3 or Rxton 1 special, but actually isn't (this stuff is actually a fair bit firmer than the T3.

Most relevantly, and most importantly, both these rubbers are as linear in their qualities as linear gets. They do you no favors at all... Which frankly is their greatest strength.

There's not the faintest hint, whiff or skerrick of catapult effect or factory boosting to either rubber -- frankly they make a 2.0mm Mark V look like a T05.

"So they're utterly slow and lifeless then?", I hear you ask.

Well, not really... Actually in some ways, they're just the opposite. That's what I mean by weird.

Thee rubbers are only slow and lifeless, if you play them like a tensor.

By this I mean, don't even *think* about burying the ball into to the sponge, in search of some latent catapult effect or lazy-arse spin creation, to add venom to the ball.

Every single time you do this, both these rubbers actually feel and perform like (pardon the expression) ...complete arse.

Do this with them, and you get precisely nothing back. No spin, no speed, no control, no quality, no arc, no deceptive flight... nothing whatsoever.

In the process, they frankly feel like playing with a wet flour sack, or a lumpy sandbag when hitting the ball this way. The ball barely limps over the next, as bland, lifeless, ugly, and distasteful as some stale, week old cheese sandwiches.

So you try hitting harder.... But somehow all you get is even more 'nothing' than you got earlier, if such a thing is possible. It's almost like the rubber gets *worse* the harder I swung it.

It's at this point you started glaring at these rubbers and their hard, silicone-like, moderate grip top-sheets, and grainy, lifeless leather-like sponge, and you start asking yourself 'why you ever bothered trying these utter pieces of **** in the first place'.

Or at least certainly that's what I did, the very first time I tried them. But the next time I tried them, they made me change my mind, from sheer revulsion, to utter confusion.

So I decided to give them one more go.

This time around, I remembered something someone once muttered at me long, long ago, about how to create spin, you're actually supposed to 'brush' (?) the ball a lot as you swing... or something Iike that.

So you then close the blade a bit more and give it a try, by slicing at the ball I stead of mashing it into the sponge... and immediately both rubbers come alive.

Ball speed picks up massively through the air, the ball starts kicking off the table strongly, and the two combined turn your previously soggy flour sack, into a reasonable all-round rubber with some actual attacking potential.

So then you try closing the blade angle even more, and slicing through the ball at increasingly narrow angles, fruit-ninja style -- all the while expecting the ball to slip badly and drop towards your side of the table...

...but somehow, amazingly...it doesn't. Instead your drives, chops, and fan shots, start getting even more quality on them.

And in the process you also twig to the fact, that these rubbers are so consistent, predictable and linear in their impact responses, that if the blade were a razor, you could probably give the ball a shave and haircut over the length of a match, and never once draw blood in the process.

And from that point onwards, that's the point that you start having fun with these things. If you happen to have a mirror handy in your club, glance at it at this point, and notice your own form. In my case, when I did this, I realized I was actually showing some really good form on my bh drive.

That's why I say they a great technique coach. Use them right, and they are a very capable rubber.

This is also the ONLY way they are capable... When you're swinging them properly, and focusing on getting great brushing contact and generating quality spin with EVERY stroke.

The second you forget to do this, that's when they start to suck again.

I kind of suspect, that if the T05 or speed glue were never actually invented, and the whole TT world hadn't ended up going nuts over tensor-style sponge and hybrid top sheets, then ALL of us might be playing with rubbers like these.

Rubbers which have no catapult effect, no easy spin, no rewards for lazy technique, and only actually perform properly when the person using them does.

Make no mistake, these rubbers aren't world-beaters... Frankly they're barely even club-level-bully beaters in the hands of most players out there.

But that's only because the average club player typically doesn't have perfect technique, and aren't using rubbers like the Kirin 1 and 3, that actually force you to work for a living, and pay attention to maintaining and perfecting your technique if you want to actually get anywhere with them.

For these reasons you really shouldn't buy some expecting to get a T05 level rubber for literal chump change, or a rubber that will do all the work for you. These aren't those kinds of rubbers.

They are however (just like a lot of Loki rubbers) very good value for money, enormous fun to use, and are worth keeping around on a spare blade somewhere, and going back to visit from time to time, like they were a really good lifelong friend.

Because just like a good lifelong friend, there rubbers are not going to lie to you.

They won't tell you that you are better at this game then you really are, in order to try and protect your feelings.

They are going to do you no favours, they point out every little flaw in your game, force you to actually play properly, and give you decent honest feedback on when you get things right... Just like a decent coach would.

For this reason they are the perfect learning rubber for absolute beginners, intermediate players, all those on a tight budget, and all those who aren't afraid to pick up a slower workhorse of a rubber, in order to detect and correct a few technical faults in their swing.

TL:DR... They're not brilliant rubbers, but they are however a pretty good low-cost technique coach that doesn't mind living in the murkier, dustier corners of your TT bag, just in case you need it someday.

So that the Kir1 and 3: ...not high performing rubbers by a long shot, but also not a bad way at all to learn what high performance stroke-making actually looks like.

Highly recommended for kids, beginners, teachers, and masochistic technique perfectionists everywhere.
 
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Finally had a chance to have another brief hit with Loki's new Kirin 1 rubber, and the marginally faster version (just!) in the Kirin 3....

...and I gotta say, they're really not too bad at all for the money. That goes for both the Kirin 1 and 3.

They're both weird to use... But they're not bad rubbers at all. I would never use one during comp... But I also really kinda like them... The Kir1 in particular really grabbed me, which is odd, as it's the cheaper and slightly slower of the two

What both these rubbers drove home to me more than anything else (in flaming 20-foot high letters at that), is:

A -- a lot of people (ie: me) use tensor rubbers so much, they are actually at risk of forgetting how to play the game without their addictive speed boost;

B -- it is still actually possible to play a surprisingly damaging game (at club level at least) using completely linear non-tacky rubbers with no catapult effect whatsoever.... and:

C -- It is still the player and their sense of touch that matters most in producing spin, more than any other factor (no matter how much Butterfly / Andro / DHS etc would like us to think otherwise in order to sell us their next big thing)

Both these rubbers are IMHO, utterly brilliant technique coaches.

15 minutes of FH/BH driving and looping with a red Kirin 1 rubber in Max sponge on a light ALL ++ limba-outer blade, easily gave me as much constructive feedback and improvement of my sense of touch, as I would otherwise have received in five or six coaching sessions...

...but I'm getting ahead of myself a bit. Let's get back to the rubbers themselves, and the unique experience of using them, after years of me immersing myself in an insular, EJ-driven, tensor-sponge Disneyland.

Both the Kir1 and Kir3 share the same top sheet are true grippy rubbers in the purest sense -- no pseudo stickiness or hints of hybrid pretensions here.

The top sheets aren't remotely tacky or sticky at all -- they are however both quite firm, moderately grippy, very high quality, and from the look of them, extremely hard wearing. Not only are these things cheap to buy, I suspect with a little bit of TLC, a set will last you for years.

The sponge on both rubbers isn't anything to write home about: there's straight forward thick, hard, cake-ish traditional sponge on the Kir1, while the Kir3 sports some really firm, black-carbon sponge that looks like it's taken directly from a T3 or Rxton 1 special, but actually isn't (this stuff is actually a fair bit firmer than the T3.

Most relevantly, and most importantly, both these rubbers are as linear in their qualities as linear gets. They do you no favors at all... Which frankly is their greatest strength.

There's not the faintest hint, whiff or skerrick of catapult effect or factory boosting to either rubber -- frankly they make a 2.0mm Mark V look like a T05.

"So they're utterly slow and lifeless then?", I hear you ask.

Well, not really... Actually in some ways, they're just the opposite. That's what I mean by weird.

Thee rubbers are only slow and lifeless, if you play them like a tensor.

By this I mean, don't even *think* about burying the ball into to the sponge, in search of some latent catapult effect or lazy-arse spin creation, to add venom to the ball.

Every single time you do this, both these rubbers actually feel and perform like (pardon the expression) ...complete arse.

Do this with them, and you get precisely nothing back. No spin, no speed, no control, no quality, no arc, no deceptive flight... nothing whatsoever.

In the process, they frankly feel like playing with a wet flour sack, or a lumpy sandbag when hitting the ball this way. The ball barely limps over the next, as bland, lifeless, ugly, and distasteful as some stale, week old cheese sandwiches.

So you try hitting harder.... But somehow all you get is even more 'nothing' than you got earlier, if such a thing is possible. It's almost like the rubber gets *worse* the harder I swung it.

It's at this point you started glaring at these rubbers and their hard, silicone-like, moderate grip top-sheets, and grainy, lifeless leather-like sponge, and you start asking yourself 'why you ever bothered trying these utter pieces of **** in the first place'.

Or at least certainly that's what I did, the very first time I tried them. But the next time I tried them, they made me change my mind, from sheer revulsion, to utter confusion.

So I decided to give them one more go.

This time around, I remembered something someone once muttered at me long, long ago, about how to create spin, you're actually supposed to 'brush' (?) the ball a lot as you swing... or something Iike that.

So you then close the blade a bit more and give it a try, by slicing at the ball I stead of mashing it into the sponge... and immediately both rubbers come alive.

Ball speed picks up massively through the air, the ball starts kicking off the table strongly, and the two combined turn your previously soggy flour sack, into a reasonable all-round rubber with some actual attacking potential.

So then you try closing the blade angle even more, and slicing through the ball at increasingly narrow angles, fruit-ninja style -- all the while expecting the ball to slip badly and drop towards your side of the table...

...but somehow, amazingly...it doesn't. Instead your drives, chops, and fan shots, start getting even more quality on them.

And in the process you also twig to the fact, that these rubbers are so consistent, predictable and linear in their impact responses, that if the blade were a razor, you could probably give the ball a shave and haircut over the length of a match, and never once draw blood in the process.

And from that point onwards, that's the point that you start having fun with these things. If you happen to have a mirror handy in your club, glance at it at this point, and notice your own form. In my case, when I did this, I realized I was actually showing some really good form on my bh drive.

That's why I say they a great technique coach. Use them right, and they are a very capable rubber.

This is also the ONLY way they are capable... When you're swinging them properly, and focusing on getting great brushing contact and generating quality spin with EVERY stroke.

The second you forget to do this, that's when they start to suck again.

I kind of suspect, that if the T05 or speed glue were never actually invented, and the whole TT world hadn't ended up going nuts over tensor-style sponge and hybrid top sheets, then ALL of us might be playing with rubbers like these.

Rubbers which have no catapult effect, no easy spin, no rewards for lazy technique, and only actually perform properly when the person using them does.

Make no mistake, these rubbers aren't world-beaters... Frankly they're barely even club-level-bully beaters in the hands of most players out there.

But that's only because the average club player typically doesn't have perfect technique, and aren't using rubbers like the Kirin 1 and 3, that actually force you to work for a living, and pay attention to maintaining and perfecting your technique if you want to actually get anywhere with them.

For these reasons you really shouldn't buy some expecting to get a T05 level rubber for literal chump change, or a rubber that will do all the work for you. These aren't those kinds of rubbers.

They are however (just like a lot of Loki rubbers) very good value for money, enormous fun to use, and are worth keeping around on a spare blade somewhere, and going back to visit from time to time, like they were a really good lifelong friend.

Because just like a good lifelong friend, there rubbers are not going to lie to you.

They won't tell you that you are better at this game then you really are, in order to try and protect your feelings.

They are going to do you no favours, they point out every little flaw in your game, force you to actually play properly, and give you decent honest feedback on when you get things right... Just like a decent coach would.

For this reason they are the perfect learning rubber for absolute beginners, intermediate players, all those on a tight budget, and all those who aren't afraid to pick up a slower workhorse of a rubber, in order to detect and correct a few technical faults in their swing.

TL:DR... They're not brilliant rubbers, but they are however a pretty good low-cost technique coach that doesn't mind living in the murkier, dustier corners of your TT bag, just in case you need it someday.

So that the Kir1 and 3: ...not high performing rubbers by a long shot, but also not a bad way at all to learn what high performance stroke-making actually looks like.

Highly recommended for kids, beginners, teachers, and masochistic technique perfectionists everywhere.
Wich blade have you used to test it? Recently i got K3 too, but i stuck it on a fast outer carbon blade, and did not like much, maybe a flex blade will make my impression change, idk.
 
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Wich blade have you used to test it? Recently i got K3 too, but i stuck it on a fast outer carbon blade, and did not like much, maybe a flex blade will make my impression change, idk.
I'm using one of my own blades -- The Wakkibat Bryo ST -- a really lovely blade, one of my personal favorites , despite the fact I don't use it often.

Details of the blade are listed below for your benefit

(This is not a sales pitch btw. The Bryo is lovely but it's also far from unique.Any blade with similar-ish build, design and materials should perform in a very similar manner with the K1 and K3:

Playing surface: 150 x 152mm
Thickness: circa 7.5mm
Blade style: 5-ply All Wood
Speed: ALL ++
Flex: low to moderate
Handle: Flared -- 35mm x 26mm x 105mm

PLAYING FEEL:
Mid-soft all wood blade. Soft spinny outers teamed with thick-ish semi-bouncy medials and a low density core. Good hitting power, good touch in the short game, lots of mid-speed gears.

COMPOSITION:
Outers: Queensland Maple
Medials: Western Red Cedar
Core: Kiri

Queensland maple is an Australian native wood I use Instead of limba, because it's easier to source. Essentially identical to limba in playing feel.

Western Red Cedar and Kiri are a great core/medial combo, and are available everywhere. Ayous is cheaper than WRC, and plays much the same, so most large manufacturers prefer Ayous. Myself I prefer WRC, as it vibrates less, and has a bit more 'pop' to it.

The BRYO ST is basically my own particular, personal twist on the classic Limba / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / Limba recipe -- loads of blades out there that use it, so that's what I would recommend for these rubbers.

(I think the Donic Appelgren and Stiga Clipper use this recipe from memory 🤔🤔 I didn't Google it however, so take that with a grain of salt. Based on my play tests, both these blades should also perform just fine with the K1 and K3.)

When initially designing the Bryo, I was trying to copy the playing feel of the Appelgren, as it's such a great blade. The appelgren is more direct with a different arc, but that said, I was so happy with the playing feel and performance of the Bryo, I stopped trying to make it something other than what it was... It's a really lovely blade frankly all of its own (...this is becoming a bit sales-pitchy sorry, so I'll stop. My apologies 😂🥳.)

One final point : on further reflection, IMO the K1 is actually a far better rubber. The K3 is just good, but the K1 is very good.

At first I thought the K1 was a poor man's Mark V, but after having a fourth hit with it this morning, it's actually better than that. Based on its performance alone, it's actually a lot closer to a poor man's Rakza 7, but a lot lighter. 🙂🙂 That said, you REALLY do need to team it with some soft limba-like outers to get decent spin out if it... Harder outers and stiff carbon cores are NOT your friend here.

The Kir3 was reasonably good on the Bryo but it really needs a slightly more flexy blade. You also REALLY have to close the blade a lot to get the best out of it. The LESS I directly engaged the K3 sponge, the better it performed.

(I doubt Loki will persrvere with that hard carbon sponge on the K3 for long frankly... , it's just too stiff. The red K3 is also superior to the black, simply because it's softer.

Hope this helps 🙂
 
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I'm using one of my own blades -- The Wakkibat Bryo ST -- a really lovely blade, one of my personal favorites , despite the fact I don't use it often.

Details of the blade are listed below for your benefit

(This is not a sales pitch btw. The Bryo is lovely but it's also far from unique.Any blade with similar-ish build, design and materials should perform in a very similar manner with the K1 and K3:

Playing surface: 150 x 152mm
Thickness: circa 7.5mm
Blade style: 5-ply All Wood
Speed: ALL ++
Flex: low to moderate
Handle: Flared -- 35mm x 26mm x 105mm

PLAYING FEEL:
Mid-soft all wood blade. Soft spinny outers teamed with thick-ish semi-bouncy medials and a low density core. Good hitting power, good touch in the short game, lots of mid-speed gears.

COMPOSITION:
Outers: Queensland Maple
Medials: Western Red Cedar
Core: Kiri

Queensland maple is an Australian native wood I use Instead of limba, because it's easier to source. Essentially identical to limba in playing feel.

Western Red Cedar and Kiri are a great core/medial combo, and are available everywhere. Ayous is cheaper than WRC, and plays much the same, so most large manufacturers prefer Ayous. Myself I prefer WRC, as it vibrates less, and has a bit more 'pop' to it.

The BRYO ST is basically my own particular, personal twist on the classic Limba / Ayous / Kiri / Ayous / Limba recipe -- loads of blades out there that use it, so that's what I would recommend for these rubbers.

(I think the Donic Appelgren and Stiga Clipper use this recipe from memory 🤔🤔 I didn't Google it however, so take that with a grain of salt. Based on my play tests, both these blades should also perform just fine with the K1 and K3.)

When initially designing the Bryo, I was trying to copy the playing feel of the Appelgren, as it's such a great blade. The appelgren is more direct with a different arc, but that said, I was so happy with the playing feel and performance of the Bryo, I stopped trying to make it something other than what it was... It's a really lovely blade frankly all of its own (...this is becoming a bit sales-pitchy sorry, so I'll stop. My apologies 😂🥳.)

One final point : on further reflection, IMO the K1 is actually a far better rubber. The K3 is just good, but the K1 is very good.

At first I thought the K1 was a poor man's Mark V, but after having a fourth hit with it this morning, it's actually better than that. Based on its performance alone, it's actually a lot closer to a poor man's Rakza 7, but a lot lighter. 🙂🙂 That said, you REALLY do need to team it with some soft limba-like outers to get decent spin out if it... Harder outers and stiff carbon cores are NOT your friend here.

The Kir3 was reasonably good on the Bryo but it really needs a slightly more flexy blade. You also REALLY have to close the blade a lot to get the best out of it. The LESS I directly engaged the K3 sponge, the better it performed.

(I doubt Loki will persrvere with that hard carbon sponge on the K3 for long frankly... , it's just too stiff. The red K3 is also superior to the black, simply because it's softer.

Hope this helps 🙂
Wow! Nice, thank you so much! yeah it helped me a lot, and also helped to increase my knowledge.
 
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RXTON VII seems to come out soon
1000019884.jpg
1000019885.jpg
 
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RXTON VII seems to come out soon
View attachment 31962View attachment 31963
......................and super sticky rubber surface !!!!!!!
Sticky , very sticky and also super sticky are all un -measurable , undefined quantities often also known in the industry as "lies" .
I won't fall for this sales trick anymore. 😊

Actually we could quite easily make a "norm" of some sort by defining it as the amount of time the rubber can hold a ball (needs to be defined) on the rubber without falling off.
For example : My clean but well played R3 Pros can hold a ball for 10 seconds.
 
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I tested a boosted Loki Arthur Asia on the BH of my Fang Bo B2. It was nice but I had too long shots too often. I will test an unboosted Arthur China on my BH next week. I'm trying to find an alternative to my tensor rubbers, because I think I would benefit from not relying on the bounce effect when I play, and from the control I would gain since I'm a near-the-table blocker.
 
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What will be the usage of such a rubber ? It looks like a 37° Jupiter 3. And I tried Jupiter 3 on BH and I found not suited to my BH. Will it be a Arthur China with soft sponge? If so, it could be very interesting.
Well on my initials talks with my agent she told me R7 was supposed to be a K3 or D09c alternative/competition. Old GTX covered a similar niche and LAC was their first highend option. But they have high level chinese players testing for quite some time now. R7 was supposed to be 38 degrees first, now they will make it 39 & 37° so its obvious they changed things during testings & production. We can only wait to see which market it covers and its price/performance
 
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Oct 2022
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Well on my initials talks with my agent she told me R7 was supposed to be a K3 or D09c alternative/competition. Old GTX covered a similar niche and LAC was their first highend option. But they have high level chinese players testing for quite some time now. R7 was supposed to be 38 degrees first, now they will make it 39 & 37° so its obvious they changed things during testings & production. We can only wait to see which market it covers and its price/performance
Sounds awesome. R7 for bh seems like it could be really good. Why not make a 41d R7 for fh as well
 
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