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I believe ML uses 42d on forehand. How hard is the actual rubber he plays in competition after all his layers of boosting?
How hard are CNT H3 after boosting?
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Fair Play first
The core idea behind the boosting on H3 is to get th
sponge more bouncy. Treating the sponge with a hot oil will do the job very well.
Be happy.
sponge more bouncy. Treating the sponge with a hot oil will do the job very well.
Be happy.
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Looking at the how the ball bounces on ML's FH I also think that it would be around 40. At the same time I don't see any particular tackiness going on, so it is hard to guess
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Fair Play first
Yeah, DHS factory is using a warmed mineral oil at 60*C for bathing the sponge into. This is to shorten the entire processing time to one and half hour.
Naphthenic brown oil is the best stuff will do for the treatments on the DHS blue sponge. Adopted into rubber industry since long ago.
https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/rubber-process-oils-7557481048.html
Naphthenic brown oil is the best stuff will do for the treatments on the DHS blue sponge. Adopted into rubber industry since long ago.
https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/rubber-process-oils-7557481048.html
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How many layers should I boost if I get a H3 Neo 41? And how many degrees will it be after the boosting process?
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I usually cut some small squares from the rubbers, and I happen to have Type O durometer - you know to increase my myth resiliency
The H3 prov BS 41 (non Neo though) is the rubber I used to use up to now. The durometer says 50, or 50-51. The Nittaku H3 Pro Turbo Blue - durometer says 55, it is significantly harder. I have now put some Falco Tempo to the H3 BS H41, tomorrow will tell you the result. I'm curious too Regarding boosting, don't over-do it. I use 2 quite thin layers, sometimes I put glue first. I used to use 3, but the rubber curls too much, and I suspect it affects the durability negatively, it does tend to develop bubbles. For re-boost I use only 1 layer, and I re-boost only once per rubber. Even 1 layer initially is OK. It is not about the boosting for me, it is about the right feeling of resistance from the rubber, boosting doesn't affect that so much - but we'll see tomorrow.
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Update: the durometer says the boosted H3 BS H41 is now 47. So yes, boosting does make it softer, a bit more than I expected. It was a thick layer. I'm sending some other measurements for reference. Take all this with a grain of salt, important is the relative differences, not the absolute numbers. And the measurements precision also is "Pi mal Daumen"...
H3 H37 - 40
H8-80 H37 ~ 40
Rakza X ~ 42
Rakza Z ~ 43
Bluegrip C2 ~ 45
H3 BS H41 boosted ~ 47
Bluegrip C1 ~ 49
H3 BS H41 ~ 50
NTP3TB ~ 55
Conclusion: NTP3TB is a rubber for Hulks like Der_Echte. When he finally abandons his eternal dedication to soft rubbers, he'll love it...
H3 H37 - 40
H8-80 H37 ~ 40
Rakza X ~ 42
Rakza Z ~ 43
Bluegrip C2 ~ 45
H3 BS H41 boosted ~ 47
Bluegrip C1 ~ 49
H3 BS H41 ~ 50
NTP3TB ~ 55
Conclusion: NTP3TB is a rubber for Hulks like Der_Echte. When he finally abandons his eternal dedication to soft rubbers, he'll love it...
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I think it's a very viable option if someone is a modern chopper or especially if someone uses short pips on backhand. The light pips side compensates for the H3 turbo blue's crazy weight.
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That's right, it's Heavy. But I remember Der mentioned his setup was 220+g, so I think for him, 10g here, 10g there, doesn't really matter that much
Mine is now 204g and I can feel it. Anyway, I don't want to over-step here At least I can say it was the booster fumes
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I boost by Kai Lin Booster, it's weird because some research shows that 41 Degree DHS ~ 54-56 ESN.
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Yes, that is the "usual" translation. I don't want to dispute that at all. At the same time, if the durometer says H3 BS H41 (supposedly ESN 54-56) is a bit harder than Bluegrip C1, which is nominally ESN 60, then I believe the durometer. The numbers given by companies are more or less right, let's be thankful they (well, some of them) give those numbers. But most important is, that you yourself find what you like, by playing with it.
Don't listen to generalizing non-sense, like the recently expressed "view" that tacky rubbers are not for amateurs. Find what you yourself personally like. What else would/can you trust? Yes, there is million of rubbers, and finding those you like takes some time, but it is just rubbers, it is not quantum physics or jet piloting. Cheers.
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The problem is that these shore measurements are not really representing how hard a rubber feels with the diameter of the ball.
I've seen many measurements where shore A T05 and D09c topsheet hardness is almost identical, and in shore C D09c is a good 10-12% harder than T05.
Not like this matters a whole lot but companies should just use a "tip" with the diameter of the ball and definitely not something pointy.
Funnily enough, D05 and D09c is almost identical in both shore A and C, both the topsheet and the sponge 🤷*♂️
I've seen many measurements where shore A T05 and D09c topsheet hardness is almost identical, and in shore C D09c is a good 10-12% harder than T05.
Not like this matters a whole lot but companies should just use a "tip" with the diameter of the ball and definitely not something pointy.
Funnily enough, D05 and D09c is almost identical in both shore A and C, both the topsheet and the sponge 🤷*♂️
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Oh yes, it's like you're step ahead of me
Indeed I stopped measuring top-sheets, because due to pointy durometer, the measurements have zero informative value... Of course, if companies do what you suggest, that would be a dream I'm afraid it is about as realistic as my dream of having a connected map of rubbers
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Oh yes, it's like you're step ahead of me
Yes, or just all vendors using the same speed/spin scale would be a step in the right path too. I am actually shocked that on the cover sheet of the MX-S Tibhar has used spin/speed figures that are on the Butterfly scale, and have 2 hardness measurements too, BTY and ESN.
It kinda does seem like a rubber close to T05 but it also reminds me of D80. Oh well...
So how do you like your turbo blue? I hope you are a fan of the heavy metal "thang" feeling and sound 😁 It's quite a great rubber for fast attack shots and possibly as a side effect you will develop an arm that Schwarzenegger would envy.
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I'm quite happy. And it all happened by accident! The new H3 BS H41 was already on the way, but not in time. Other suitable H3 was nowhere quickly to be found. And luckily, your PM came not immediately, otherwise I'd most likely go for the TDE. (It might actually be quite interesting.)
The sound is beautiful, distinctive, and I'm not the only one in the hall noticing it... Better than the H3 H41. The words you used describe it the best. I struggle to describe the differences in behavior though. First, NHP3TB doesn't feel more aggressive, nor more bouncy, than H3 BS H41. And contrary to the accepted (also by myself) view that harder rubbers are faster the more you put into them (the faster is your stroke), I wouldn't say that it is the case in case of NHP3TB vs H3H41. I'd say though, that in full power strokes it converts the energy to spin even more, very pleasant feeling that nothing is wasted. In low power strokes, I had to adapt a bit, to not go to the net. Blocking is fine. Other things are hard to formulate. I don't want to advertise much about it, because I think not very many would enjoy it, given its weight and hardness. But I'm really glad it happened.
What's your experience?
Btw. I did have some pain in the place between palm and forearm, the place you activate if you try to spin using palm only (I didn't think I actually use it). And also in the shoulder due to imperfect BH technique. And both those happened right after the switch. But I don't think it was really correlated. Now sick, so no pain... Cheers.
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loool, surprises are great! The metallic feel and sounds can attract a lot of attention it was the same for me. I have a sad little story with my H3 turbo blue. I also wanted to switch to it cause of a bubble on my H3 BS 40 deg. I didn't really believe that it's so bloody heavy. 60g for a sheet cut is no joke.
When it arrived I glued it to my Joola Trinity blade and on the first training I was in love with it. Like compared to BS I felt it to be fast even more stable, blocking and over the table countering was better. Fast attack was better, hell even I would call it magical. You know there are those days when you can close your eyes and you'll hit rollers effortlessly. But of course training is training only, you know what to do, you can expect everything. Then I decided to use it next day on a match and boy was I in for a ride. When the balls were came varied, unexpectedly I sure felt the weight of the racket, my BH was constantly behind and after some time my confidence was low. I knew what was going but like I can't fix this on the spot. That was not one of my best matches... thankfully it didn't really matter in the end and I wasn't super terrible either but just compared to myself. Since then I removed the sheet and it sleeps in my closet for 2 years now in a kinda brand new state.
I was thinking to get like a 2.0mm Victas V11 or something really light for BH and pick the rubber up. I might still do that since it really was so nice to play with. If one can cope with the weight I think it's much better then BS H3. I would say spinwise it's not so good since it doesn't eat the ball like blue sponge, but it's still very spinny.
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