How many layers of glue?

So, I have decided to go with Revolution n3 glue, this one in particular (is this the right one)

I was just wondering how many layers of glue you guys put on the rubber and blade?
 
says Table tennis clown
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So, I have decided to go with Revolution n3 glue, this one in particular (is this the right one)

I was just wondering how many layers of glue you guys put on the rubber and blade?
Revo has got a lot of little instruction videos and for normal play recommend 1 layer on the blade and 2 layers on the sponge. I suppose it depends a bit on which version you got too, thin - medium or thick. When you want to remove the glue from the sponge as easy as the videos show , i suggest at least 4 layers on the rubber. 😁😁😁
I am giving up on Revo3 now..............................
 
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So, I have decided to go with Revolution n3 glue, this one in particular (is this the right one)

I was just wondering how many layers of glue you guys put on the rubber and blade?
If you get the normal viscosity (which is the thinnest) you should apply two layers on the blade and three layers on the sponge. It is a bit running so you need to apply a couple layers to make sure the sponge and the blade stick, especially if the blade is laquered.

Don't buy into the hype. All glues, Revolution n3, are hard to get off the rubber. I use tear mender to get the old glue off the blade. Please see below for the youtube video and the amazon link:



Now in real deal, it NEVER appears as easy as it is shown in the video. But good enough. If you cannot peel the layer off, then you need to apply more tear mender to make sure it becomes easier to tear the layer off including the old glue. I have done it with MX-S, Rakza 7 soft, T05fx, H3neo and G1. The easiest to get off is H3neo and G1. It was efforless. the hardest to get off is MX-S and Rakza 7 soft.
 
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says Fair Play first
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The guy has only poor knowledge about adhesive products. The high viscosity products is the best for the gluing works. Look into exemplary video to see a happy chap using stiga innovative product. This is what we think to be an ideal dlue stuff. Muxh similar to a shaving cosmetics. High viscosity of table tennis adhesive is a real virtue, one can upgrade glue stuff with some non toxic additives.

Be happy
 
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By the way, when the glue is running (i.e. more thin), it takes longer to dry.

Butterfly Free Chack Pro II is relatively thicker and it dries faster to me. I can wait 24 hours for my booster to take a hold and dry. I have trouble waiting for more than 30 minutes to glue the rubber to my blade though. When I am ready to assemble my blade, I want to assemble it now. So Free Chack Pro II works better for me.
 
says Table tennis clown
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By the way, when the glue is running (i.e. more thin), it takes longer to dry.

Butterfly Free Chack Pro II is relatively thicker and it dries faster to me. I can wait 24 hours for my booster to take a hold and dry. I have trouble waiting for more than 30 minutes to glue the rubber to my blade though. When I am ready to assemble my blade, I want to assemble it now. So Free Chack Pro II works better for me
1691221971970.jpeg

for Au$ 95 it better be good, there is postage on top of that :LOL:
 
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Lol I got my 500 ml bottle from Megaspin for $80. Apparently it is out of stock there.

I am not a big fan of Butterfly products. But I was desperate trying to glue Rakza 7 soft and C-1 onto my blade. That darn Revolution 3 regular (the thinnest) glue just would not stick. So I had to get a 50ml Butterfly Free Chack Pro II bottle from my club coach urgently and then bought a 500ml bottle online from Megaspin.

I got my 500ml Revolution 3 regular viscosity from TT11. I did not ask for a refund. Instead I asked TT11 to send me a couple Neottec Glue Neofix 90ml free as replacements. They did. So I guess I will go back and forth from Neottec glue v.s. Butterfly Free Chack Pro II glue for a while.

People also advised me to put that 500ml bottle of Revolution 3 regular viscosity upside down to "remix" the layers to solve the issue. I guess I will do that one of these days. Right now, that bottle is just sitting there.

Another way of looking at it is, when I tried to glue my Rakza 7 soft onto my carbon blade, and it would not stick after three times, the residual glue on the Rakza 7 soft sponge became bumpy after being dried up after each application. Those bumps basically made that brand new rubber unplayable. I had to painstakingly peel off the three layers of glue off. Considering each sheet of ESN rubber is like $45 (without the 30% bulk discount from TT11 or Dandoy), I decided that cheap out on glue is not a cost effective way to EJ....

Plus Timo Boll on his YouTube video said he only uses Butterfly glue (not that he is biased or anything).
 
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If you are using a good glue with enough rubber solids like Copydex, you only need one layer on each side of the surfaces to be joined. If you have the free time, it would be better spent on other things rather than waiting on extra layers of glue to dry. One of the reasons people use multiple layers is to make sure the inferior glues actually adheres correctly.
 
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says Table tennis clown
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If you are using a good glue with enough rubber solids like Copydex, you only need one layer on each side of the surfaces to be joined. If you have the free time, it would be better spent on other things rather than waiting on extra layers of glue to dry. One of the reasons people use multiple layers is to make sure the inferior glues actually adheres correctly.
Indeed and then of course when only one layer per blade/rubber is needed it
will make a high price justifiable.
 

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I always use single layer on blade and single on rubber, perhaps a bit more generous layer on rubber and never had any issue. Used some Butterfly glue previously and Andro turbofix now. Also usually I don't put any additional glue on rubbers when moving them from one blade to another. Just stick them together, use a roller and put it under a heavy book for some time, that's it.

Usually I run out of sponges much earlier than out of glue.
 
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