Hybrid recommendations

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they don't fix the problem, but if you don't want to fix anything and just want to play then they at least gift you with a bit of pace :p
Totally agree. I'm aware that the solution will come with time and a lot of practice, but we have to agree that the hurricane 3 need more effort and technique to get a higher quality ball, specially when you are out of position.
 
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that is totally right and i am on your side btw would always suggest not changing the rubber and just getting a coaching session for that money. but since i know a lot of people that don't want to go through the frustration of learning new stuff and just want to have fun and play it could be a solution to get a slower but bouncier rubber like modern hybrids as rasanter C48, Bluestar A2 or Tibhar Hybrid MK Pro.
but then you also need to except all the other takeoffs you will have and adaptations you need. so back to 1. just learn the proper stroke :p
Well, I'm not frustrated with the h3n being hard to play. Actually it's my favorite rubber and I really love it. The main problem is that, two days ago, I had to swap rubber during a championship because my h3 did not pass in the thickness test due to the booster+glue. I even applied less oil than I'm used just to be safe...
 
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K.K

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Well, I'm not frustrated with the h3n being hard to play. Actually it's my favorite rubber and I really love it. The main problem is that, two days ago, I had to swap rubber during a championship because my h3 did not pass in the thickness test due to the booster+glue. I even applied less oil than I'm used just to be safe...
wow never heard of that except from erste bundesliga in germany. what did you do then? did you had a spare blade to play with?
 
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There's a thread in a German forum about durability where a couple of people shared how many hours (systematic) training and match play they get out of e.g. K3: range is about 20 hours to 50 hours... When I used to play with ESN rubbers (mainly on backhand) I got around 40 to 60 hours. Today I would guess about 10 to 20 hours less because I'm using BH more often and hit harder.
Racket control suggests that you are playing on a high level so my guess would be that durability will be on the low end of this range.

Codexx EL Pro 52 is closer to H3 than K3. Had average durability but was quite heavy (afair >50g). Rakza Z Extra Hard should also be closer to H3 (only played with the normal Z for a while, higher trajectory, less top end power and spin compared to H3) but also heavier.

Otherwise I would get H3 in 2.1mm (remove glue layer from Neo) and a Stiga or TSP/Victas magnifying glass to check rubber thickness. Should be more accurate than using a net gauge and way cheaper than the devices from Butterfly or DHS 1)

1) https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/dhs-tt-rubber-thickness-measurement-double-standard
 
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wow never heard of that except from erste bundesliga in germany. what did you do then? did you had a spare blade to play with?
Luckly my coach told me to keep my old rubber just in case. I asked the inspection to check my blade on the day before my game. As soon as they told me it was over the permitted thickness I rushed to glue the older one.
 
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There's a thread in a German forum about durability where a couple of people shared how many hours (systematic) training and match play they get out of e.g. K3: range is about 20 hours to 50 hours... When I used to play with ESN rubbers (mainly on backhand) I got around 40 to 60 hours. Today I would guess about 10 to 20 hours less because I'm using BH more often and hit harder.
Racket control suggests that you are playing on a high level so my guess would be that durability will be on the low end of this range.

Codexx EL Pro 52 is closer to H3 than K3. Had average durability but was quite heavy (afair >50g). Rakza Z Extra Hard should also be closer to H3 (only played with the normal Z for a while, higher trajectory, less top end power and spin compared to H3) but also heavier.

Otherwise I would get H3 in 2.1mm (remove glue layer from Neo) and a Stiga or TSP/Victas magnifying glass to check rubber thickness. Should be more accurate than using a net gauge and way cheaper than the devices from Butterfly or DHS 1)

1) https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/dhs-tt-rubber-thickness-measurement-double-standard
I actually don't mind the difference, I really liked the feeling of the hybrid rubbers so I thought maybe I should change a bit more and get something more towards the euro style of rubbers. The two rubbers that I've tried recently and really like with just a few caveats where the omega vii tour (not hybrid but super crisp feeling) and the tibhar mk hybrid (too soft but will give another try this week)
 
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I have tried Tibhar K3 and MK Hybrid on my Koto outer-ply Sanwei 75 inner. Personally I found the K3 a bit hard for my liking. K3 is very spinny though; could be that it is a good rubber for a softer blade. I highly recommend the MK (I use it on forehand, but it goes equally well on the BH).
 
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I'll second the Bluestar A1 here, having just recently started testing it.

Compared to the K3 I'm used to, it feels a bit softer and bouncier despite having the same sponge hardness. Just looking at it, the newer generation ESN "H-touch" topsheet is a bit less tacky and has narrower pips than the older generation hybrids like K3. Touch play over the table is still great, but the A1 is a lot faster/requires less effort in the open rally. The ball feeling is different (A1 feels more crisp while K3 feels like it has a more prolonged bite on the ball), so it's hard to compare spin. A1 doesn't feel as spinny as K3, but I may revise this as I try it out in different situations. Overall I feel like A1 allows me to hit higher quality shots throughout a rally.
 
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