KTL Instinct+ Vs Galaxy W-6 for a beginner

[dimon00]

I'm a total beginner and I was looking for a first bat.
After reading the forum for several hours I have select two possible blades: KTL Instinct+ and Galaxy W-6.
On ebay there are some pre-assembled combination but I'm not sure which one would be better. Two candidates from "Ping Pong World" (I cannot post links, yet):

• Galaxy-W-6-with-RITC729-TRANSCEND-CREAM-and-FOCUS-III-1-5mm-Long-Shakehand-FL
• KTL-Instinct-Shakehand-Blade-with-2x-Pro-XP-Rubbers-Long-Shakehand-FL
• a third possibility would be to ask to assemble the W6 with 2x Pro XP.

In your opinion which one is the best solution?
If going for the Pro XP should I ask for a less thick rubber for the BH?

 

[chuckjordan2]

There is a difference between the KTL Instinct and Instinct+. First is 5 layers (All) and second is 7 layers (Off-?).

I also have both the W6 (nice blade) and have used the Instinct (5 layer). The Instinct was my first bat.

Either would be good, however, I'd lean to the Instinct. More control. Make sure either has a 1.5 sponge (don't go over 1.8). Ask for the Instinct with the rubbers on the W6.

Also, would be good to know your age group and overall health. If you are really into athletics (ie. Play tennis, etc), I'd tell you to switch to the W6.

 

[chuckjordan2]

Also note: Ping Pong World (aka Eacheng) will assemble a racket if you pick 2 rubbers and a blade.

May I suggest RITC 729 General in Black 1.5 and Palio CJ8000 in Red 1.5 on the Instinct blade?

 

[BeGo]

Another vote for Galaxy W6, medium speed soft blade for looping and chopping. Difficult for blocking and driving, so, no lazy movement.

Consider these rubber to match the blade,

Galaxy Jupiter
Galaxy Mercury II
Galaxy Venus 2
Galaxy Moon Pro

Don't worry for the thickness, 1.7 mm or thicker is fine. Thicker is better in your case. [emoji6]

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[UpSideDownCarl]

Another vote for Galaxy W6, medium speed soft blade for looping and chopping. Difficult for blocking and driving, so, no lazy movement.

Consider these rubber to match the blade,

Galaxy Jupiter
Galaxy Mercury II
Galaxy Venus 2
Galaxy Moon Pro

Don't worry for the thickness, 1.7 mm or thicker is fine. Thicker is better in your case. [emoji6]

I agree 100% with BeGo.


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[dimon00]

May I suggest RITC 729 General in Black 1.5 and Palio CJ8000 in Red 1.5 on the Instinct blade?

Thank you, chuckjordan2. Every suggestion is welcome!
Can you explain the reason behind? In this way I can learn something more.

Also, would be good to know your age group and overall health. If you are really into athletics (ie. Play tennis, etc), I'd tell you to switch to the W6.

I'm 40ish but fit (weight lifting and martial arts). Probably too old to start playing tt but my objective is only to have fun.

Don't worry for the thickness, 1.7 mm or thicker is fine. Thicker is better in your case.

Now I'm a little confused about thickness. Reading on the forum I somewhat assumed that smaller values are for control, helping the beginner to develop a good technique, while higher one are more for attacking.

 

[BeGo]

Now I'm a little confused about thickness. Reading on the forum I somewhat assumed that smaller values are for control, helping the beginner to develop a good technique, while higher one are more for attacking.

[emoji28] [emoji28] [emoji28]

There actually something more inside the word control, and does not linearly related to thickness.

Ok. We start from basic first. [emoji6]

For most rubber, thicker rubber means,
- more sensitive to spin (off course!)
- more easier to hijack and impart spin

In most looping cases, we try to impart as much as possible spin to the ball to return it to the table. Less spun means long ball.

So,

Thinner rubber means, we can lazily block the ball back, using slightly close faced blade. This that often mistaken as, high control. On the other hand, we cant actually use full force when looping, not enough sponge to impart spin, so the player always in risk of fly ball. Thin rubber actually have low control on looping. [emoji28]

Thicker rubber means, no more lazy blocking, you must actually read the spin and adjust the blade face accordingly. This that often mistaken as low control. Fun part of it, we can loop with all our might to impart maximum spin to return the ball to the table, hence, high control in looping. [emoji6]





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[ttdgfg]

Galaxy w6 is faster then KTL, pair it with slower rubbers and it will play fine(even for a beginner).

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

I am going to agree with BeGo again.

Thinner rubbers have more control for hitting flat. If what you want to do is hit flat, then they are fine.

But if you want to learn to spin the ball, I would get a rubber with sponge no thinner than 1.9.

Higher level technique is all about learning to spin the ball. If you have rubber designed for hitting flat and not spinning, you will be encouraged not to learn to spin. Because, on thinner rubber, your biggest reward comes from hitting flat. On thicker rubber you are rewarded for spinning.

In the end it is a choice. But if the choice is learn to spin and improve technique, then the choice is pretty clear.

At a higher level, someone who already knows how to spin, can still spin with the thinner rubber. But that takes a decent amount more skill.

W6 with 2008XP is a great starter setup. Good control rubbers. Good blade.

If you wanted a little less expensive and a little toned down the Galaxy 896 blade is still pretty good. And an excellent value. I would actually take that over the Instinct personally. But the W6 is better. Just a little more cash.


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[dimon00]

Nice explanations, BeGo and UpSideDownCarl.
I need time to digest them.

From what I understand at the moment I lazily bat the ball on the other side while a real player read the spin and counter it. The rubber influence the way a player can respond and so the style. Correct?

At the moment I need to develop the basics and probably the "control" I need to learn is "how to spin".

I'm thinking to buy the W6 but I'm still unsure on what's the best rubber for my level.
Since I cannot find 2008XP from the supplier I cited before I could start with the XP PRO and then switch to something more advanced?
I buy two combos and experiment?

 

[Tony's Table Tennis]

I kindof don't like KTL's business model, so I wont recommend that, but to answer some of the above
instinct is allround, instinct+ is allround+

Go for an allround blade, go Galaxy (aka Yinhe) they have a very good business model and the boss man himself is in customer service.

rubbers at 1.8mm is good enough for control
1.5mm is too thin and I would say this is more for young kids who are starting out.
2.0mm could also be okay if you can't get 2.0mm
Baring in mind, the selected rubber above are all "control" rubbers.

a 2.0mm control rubber is more control than say a 1.8mm fast rubber for example

 

[chuckjordan2]

Ok, we know your age, and other training (martial arts). Go with the W6 as you'll grow into it. The rubbers I mentioned are slower and have more control. They (rubbers) are a consumable and you'll outgrow them, so why not go slow to perfect your form.

How do you practice your martial arts? Full steam or slow to understand muscle movements? Think of the thin rubbers as a way to perfect your muscle movements too. The W6 can be used for years (i still have mine) and you can glue on new rubbers as you grow.

 

[PiZa]

I also recommend You W6. I played with it for a week and i can say that it is a very nice blade. What a pity that Yinhe don't produce anatomic handle for this blade.

 

[dimon00]

I ended up buying a W6 from Eacheng + 2 PRO XP. They should assemble them.
I'm thinking of a second, cheaper, set up to use just for fun.

Thank you all for your answers and explanations.

 

[yogi_bear]

I love w6. You can use it even if your level advances. Just use a slower rubber like yinhe mars 2 initially and as you progress, just chanve them into faster rubbers.

 

[Der_Echte]

You got a middle of the road setup, which is in the zone for developing whatever it is you will develop. Every company sells several of these combinations, you chose well. You will learn more about stuff later and move into whatever equipment facilitates what you are into... UNLESS you develop EJ SYNDROME, then it would be game over no cure.

 

[dimon00]

UNLESS you develop EJ SYNDROME, then it would be game over no cure.

I fear it is too late.
I'm already studying the technicalities of the various equipment.

A distributor in Italy is selling Yasaka Sweden Extra for a good price... any comment on that blade? Maybe in another post?

 

[chuckjordan2]

The W6 is a clone of the Yasaka Extra Offensive (YEO). The Yasaka Sweden Extra would be quite similar (not exact, however, similar).

 

[yogi_bear]

no it is not a clone of the YEO. the YEO has a walnut top ply, the w-6 doesn't. the YInhe Pro W5 is the clone of YEO.

 

[ttdgfg]

I think the w6 is close to the yasaka extra(not YEO), with little bit less control and a bit more speed.