Ah my bad, Well I had a lot of fun playing with both of these rubbers on my forehand, it was easy to adapt. I had a worse time on my backhand. Super tough to adapt and my technique is not the greatest. But while I was playing with them on my forehand I started to swing a lot more which sort of ruined my forehand technique. So I stopped using both of these rubbers, i glued back my rakza 7 on both sides and I am now focusing on my technique again. For these past couple of years I have only been practicing technique but now I wanted to change my rubbers to something new but it didn't help at all and sort of ruined my technique again so it didn't really work for me and my playstyle.Sorry, I mean how do you like the performance of these rubbers from your testing?
It happened to me few times. always got refund from sellers
The seller created a new link for me to place my next order from. He said the courier will have marked the previous one as un-shippable, we shall see. If it doesn't go through this time either, I'm giving up for now.Did you end up getting the robot resolved?
Good. So you like the Jupiter 3?Today I ordered another Jupiter 3 pad in black with a hardness of 39 degrees, a jar of Seamun and 5 pieces of planks with a thickness of 3.5 mm from kiri wood for making blades on Aliexpress. Today, I also gave away two of my old rakza z and vega pro rubbers to an employee at work for almost nothing. Something like this
Yes, this is a great rubber for me, and not only in forehand! It does not start playing immediately, but only after two layers of Seamun with a break of three / five days. I'll upload pictures of my blades at my leisure.Good. So you like the Jupiter 3?
Post some pictures of your self made blades! I'd be curious to see how they look
what are you going to glue on top of the kiri ?Yes, this is a great rubber for me, and not only in forehand! It does not start playing immediately, but only after two layers of Seamun with a break of three / five days. I'll upload pictures of my blades at my leisure.
This time I want to try sipo wood as an intermediate layer, it turned out to be quite light and soft, then carbon and probably all the same koto. Adhesive for the cross layer - polyurethane and epoxy resin for carbon.what are you going to glue on top of the kiri ?
Do you purchase the thin veneers from the same place ?
What glue will you use ?
do you first make the carbon into a sheet using epoxy and the use it like a veneer gluing everything together with polyurethane ?This time I want to try sipo wood as an intermediate layer, it turned out to be quite light and soft, then carbon and probably all the same koto. Adhesive for the cross layer - polyurethane and epoxy resin for carbon.
We have a store in town that sells veneer, I buy from them.
These are not all blades, there are a couple more. Of these seven pieces, one blade, the one that stands separately is a very fast factory blade with titanium and carbon, was redone so that it would have at least some ability to create rotation (the second photo clearly shows the metal in this blade), the rest are completely homemade.Here are the homemade blades I play with. Please do not kick hard, these are not for sale, but working tools
Yes, there was an attempt to reproduce this blade immediately after the Truls matches, when they were not yet on sale and even the dimensions and wood were not yet known. We had to make a template from the photos on the site . I remember in the club then many were surprised by this form. In it, the inner layer is kiri, then carbon, then linden (to get into weight, because the head is larger) and on top is koto. Peak frequency at 1242 Hz. The weight is 86 grams, with two maximum smooth rubbers 186-188, it seems to be not much, but due to the shape, the balance shifts strongly to the head and it is hard to work with a brush, but the blow is like a hammerwow, i see you made a Cybershape too