racket acceleration

says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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i never got why ppl care so much about blades being "balanced". preferring lighter paddles over heavier ones is a head scratcher too.
if you would ask an 8th grader that played some attention in physics class about if a lighter or heavier blade should work best in table tennis, he would respond F = m x a.
I don't get this either and I am also scratching my head.
many manufacturers are classifying their blades as either attack- or defense blades.They will mostly then specify an attacking blade as Head-heavy and the defensive version as grip heavy.

So making a beast by adding weight into the handle is not the way. Strip the whole blade and add some sheet medal, that will make a "real beast" 😁
😁 😁
 
I don't get this either and I am also scratching my head.
many manufacturers are classifying their blades as either attack- or defense blades.They will mostly then specify an attacking blade as Head-heavy and the defensive version as grip heavy.

So making a beast by adding weight into the handle is not the way. Strip the whole blade and add some sheet medal, that will make a "real beast" 😁
😁 😁
I don't understand that you're being nonsensical if you don't understand. Everyone does what they want with their time. One person is content to play, while another tests different versions and disassembles rackets and modifies them. What's not to understand? Are you happy with your racket? Ok, play and let others live.
 
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says Table tennis clown
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I don't understand that you're being nonsensical if you don't understand. Everyone does what they want with their time. One person is content to play, while another tests different versions and disassembles rackets and modifies them. What's not to understand? Are you happy with your racket? Ok, play and let others live.
Ohhhhh.........SENSITIVE are we :ROFLMAO:😂:ROFLMAO:
 
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I'll try your Best Mode on one racket out of curiosity. How much is the optimal increase in weight? 10g to start with? I think you've increased that much in the Stiga Evolution - Carla?
Is it better to add the weight in the middle or at the end of the handle?
I saw this post. But there's nothing about lengthening the handle. How do you approach this? I'd like to add about 0.5cm-1cm. I'm thinking of adding a piece of balsa. I'll glue the whole thing with glue or screws and put on this Slip-on from Ali.
Doesn't the slip-on and tape cause a worse feel/control?
I have done the Beast Mod increasing the weight anywhere from 10 to 35 grams...

Start with a goal of 10 grams or so... fill in open space with hide glue and toothpicks... that will make it all solid for only the minimum weight gain... but making it solid and adding 10 grams still provides a damn good result. Better feel, easier whipping.

I recommend against drilling and filling.

If I want to keep the blade, but use a little longer handle, I get with a custom blade maker and tell them my specs for the handle pieces. I get measure to the .5mm if possible.

I have had custom blade maker Chase do maybe 6 handles like this of my Donic Persson Power Play. I really liked the results with that. I did not extend the handle pieces past the end of the blade throat... I simply made it flush even on bottom and on my grip, I choke up all the way.

I find and extra 2-3 mm longer handle is perfect for my hand... most handle pieces are 100mm long. Most, not all. So I asked for 102mm long and thicker by around 2mm to get the overall circumference I wanted.

It is fun to play around with blades you have, but making a custom blade is not so expensive. often LESS than a big brand blade new... and every design spec is YOUR spec.
 
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I don't understand that you're being nonsensical if you don't understand. Everyone does what they want with their time. One person is content to play, while another tests different versions and disassembles rackets and modifies them. What's not to understand? Are you happy with your racket? Ok, play and let others live.
@Przemooo You will need to read lodro's posts with some more time and you will get a feel if he is commenting as nonsense or serious.
 
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@Przemooo You will need to read lodro's posts with some more time and you will get a feel if he is commenting as nonsense or serious.
In that case, Lordo, I apologize. Maybe because of the language translation I didn't catch the irony.

As for the handle length, I have the same observations - I need a length of 101-102mm. Many blades are 100mm and less.

Does each blade have an empty space? I have a cheap Yinhe 03b, I doubt that anyone would play with an empty space when producing such a cheap blade. Then make an empty space yourself?

Optionally, instead of a custom handle, you can transfer the handle from a cheap Chinese blade, but it's more work. Then fill the empty spaces with what? Maybe wood filler? Wood putty? Glue?

Can you write what your favorite boards are? I've already seen many positive opinions about Powerplay, and it's very cheap. But I heard that it has a glass layer, and a thin outer layer that comes off easily. I will definitely buy this blade though.
 
Does it have to be bone glue? Can't it be regular wood glue?

You seal the rocket with some polymer varnish. I bought a planter, is this the right one?

 
says Table tennis clown
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In that case, Lordo, I apologize. Maybe because of the language translation I didn't catch the irony.
No need to apologize, all is well. Just a hint , watch out for the smilies, normally when I do this: 😁
😁 😁 😁 😁 I am not too serious.

P.S It is interesting to experiment with blades and rubbers just make sure you also have good fun playing TT.
 
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Does it have to be bone glue? Can't it be regular wood glue?

You seal the rocket with some polymer varnish. I bought a planter, is this the right one?

It can be what you want... if you use wood glue, you will lose a good chunk of the weight and after all is said and done, it might not be as solid as expected... plus you are never gunna take that handle off ever again... it is now attached for life.

With hide glue and a goodly amount of thin wood or metal pieces (small nail or straightened out staples), the whole job stays more solid and you have the ability to heat it up and take the handles off again if you want.

You can seal with oil or water based stuff, try it out on a cheepo blade first and get a feel for what to do...

@UpSideDownCarl some years ago made a vid on how to seal a blade and some visiting trouble maker was always making sum crazy comments.
 
It can be what you want... if you use wood glue, you will lose a good chunk of the weight and after all is said and done, it might not be as solid as expected... plus you are never gunna take that handle off ever again... it is now attached for life.

With hide glue and a goodly amount of thin wood or metal pieces (small nail or straightened out staples), the whole job stays more solid and you have the ability to heat it up and take the handles off again if you want.

You can seal with oil or water based stuff, try it out on a cheepo blade first and get a feel for what to do...

@UpSideDownCarl some years ago made a vid on how to seal a blade and some visiting trouble maker was always making sum crazy comments.
Now I understand.

1.
And how do I disconnect the grip? Heat it up and gently go under the grip with a spatula? I'm afraid of damaging it, but I'd gladly swap the grip from Palio 01 to Palio 02.

2
What do you think about cutting off a piece of balsa 1-2mm to the end of the grip to extend it? Varnish the balsa.

3
Which grip tape do you recommend? Isn't there a worse control?

4. If the bat goes headfirst, what do you think about adding a few grams of lead or gluing a coin to the bottom of the grip? Less invasive than removing the grip.
 
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per ITTF specs... The blade is supposed to be continuous, so obvious extensions to the blade can be easily seen and contested by an opponent in a sanctioned tourney... if where you play is not nationally sanctioned, then who cares? Turn that blade into Frankenstein and luv it.

An inexpensive option is to glue a piece of wood of your choice to the bottom of the blade to extend the handle length to your desired spec... than sand it all smooth to shape... then do a grip tape job... with the kind of grip tape you WRAP around the handle.

Nearly every maker has a wrap kind of grip tape.

I am against lead tape or such things fixed to outside of blade... they will eventually fall off... and I do not like making more head heavy... but that is me, everyone can be different.

I use dry air heat for a few minutes slowly up and down the handle, then I slide a box cutter under the handle after the glue softens up. I used to use artist's spatula. Use what you have available and take your time, work carefully, safely.

here is one link of a grip tape from BTY that has a few pics for you to get an idea of what I am talking about.

 
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