SDC Handmade Blades

[SDC]

#1343 - Outer Kev - OFF-

I rarely make blades with very thick cores, this type of blade is not easy to make in the sense that, because the core is so thick, it plays a very important role in the feeling of the blade. In theory, using a thick core and thin outer layers, is the most effective way to build a blade, in terms of maximizing the mechanical properties. However, that approach does not account for the feeling, which is also very important. If the density of the core is too low, the blade will feel light but flimsy, and many times hollow, this is something that happens a lot with industrial blades. On the other hand, if the core is too dense, the blade will feel hard. So, there's an important balance that needs to be achieve, and that's what I tried to do with this one. It uses a very thin Limba outer layer, followed by a very thin Aramid (Kevlar) layer, and a slightly harder medial layer of Sycamore Maple. In terms of feeling it's giving WSC vibes, but it feels more solid and a tad faster than the ones I've tried in this weight range.

For the handle I went again with the cross grain Walnut, and I think we'll be seeing a lot more of it. Not only it looks good, but it's reasonably light, and it provides a very secure grip due to the cross grain.

Available FS.

- Limba / Kev / Sycamore / Ayous core
- 90.6g
- 5.75mm
- 156.5x149mm
- FL (102x25.0-23.5mm)
- Balance: 2.8cm (Low)

 

[MarekD]

Again, beautiful work.
Could you compare this blade to the Xiom Hugo Calderano HAL?

 

[SlowPower]

Interesting blade.

I am interested in the difference in stiffness caused by the cross grain handle.

This cant add as much as parallel oriented grain, so the blade may feel more flexy?

 

[SDC]

Again, beautiful work.
Could you compare this blade to the Xiom Hugo Calderano HAL?

It's like a step down (speedwise) from the HAL, but a more fair comparison would actually be the SAL, since they both use an Ayous core. Overall it's still less stiff because Limba is flexier than Koto, and the Kevlar fabric used here is thinner (lower density).

Interesting blade.

I am interested in the difference in stiffness caused by the cross grain handle.

This cant add as much as parallel oriented grain, so the blade may feel more flexy?

No difference. The handle is not fully cross grained, there's a Purple Heart underlayer running vertically as usual. However, even if that layer didn't exist, there would be no difference in the stiffness of the blade.

 

[SDC]

#1344 - Asymmetric Inner/Outer - OFF-

Normally I don't make blades just for the sake of being different, my blades usually have a purpose and looks are secondary. This one also started with a purpose, to be a fully asymmetric blade, down to the core, which makes it one of the most unique blades I've ever built, and probably in the world. But then comes the thought "why not make it even more unique?", hence the head and handle shape. The coffin handle shape has been reworked and improved in terms of proportions, compared to previous blades. It kinda feels like if you took the straight handle of a TB ALC and made it conical. It's not an handle for small hands, but it feels very nice if you like squared shaped handles. In terms of composition I tried to make a softer FH side and a harder BH side, avoiding the usual clichés. Chestnut is soft and a nice alternative to Limba, Zebrano is harder than Koto and something I haven't used in a while. The angle on the photo makes it seem like the head shape is pointier and smaller than what really is. In reality this shape is not far from a standard 157x150mm in terms of area, but with more defined edges, and it's not without its purpose too. It has more mass near the wings, so it provides a lower balance than a regular shape, kinda like the anti-cybershape.

Available FS.

- Chestnut / Balsa / Red Kevlar / Ayous / Kiri / Ako / Basalt / Zebrano
- 92.6g
- 5.9mm
- 155x154mm
- Coffin (110x22x35-27mm)
- Balance: 2.6cm (Low)

 

[SDC]

#1347 - Outer Ax-C - OFF

Ax-C is like the poor man's ZLC. It's a Aramid-Carbon fabric, but due to the weave pattern with vertical carbon and horizontal Aramid, it has more in common with ZLC than A-C. However, since Aramid is a bit softer than Zylon, you end up with a slightly slower and crisp blade, but also softer and with a bit more feeling. The Koto outer ply on this one is also less dense than usual, which allows to make really light blades. It also has a nice fish scale pattern which really doesn't show on the photos. However, that does impact how the blade performs, with a decrease in speed and rebound of the blade, which in some cases it's actually a good thing. It's still quite stiff (>1400Hz), but due to the reasons I mentioned, also slightly softer than usual for blades in that frequency range. If I were to make a comparison, I guess it feels like a more tamed TB ZLC.

Available FS.

- Koto / Ax-C / Ayous / Kiri core
- 82.0g
- 5.6mm
- 157x150mm
- ST (102x28.3x22.0mm)
- Balance: 3.2cm (Med)

 

[SlowPower]

It's like a step down (speedwise) from the HAL, but a more fair comparison would actually be the SAL, since they both use an Ayous core. Overall it's still less stiff because Limba is flexier than Koto, and the Kevlar fabric used here is thinner (lower density).


No difference. The handle is not fully cross grained, there's a Purple Heart underlayer running vertically as usual. However, even if that layer didn't exist, there would be no difference in the stiffness of the blade.

Ok, thats strange.
I once made a blade with a handle made of MDF and it felt mushy.
As soon as I changed it to a normal wooden handle it felt a lot better.
The guy from our local tt shop even tells he needs hardwood handles as this adds some stiffness, so I assumed it should behave similar with a cross grained handle.

 

[Tyce]

Ok, thats strange.
I once made a blade with a handle made of MDF and it felt mushy.
As soon as I changed it to a normal wooden handle it felt a lot better.
The guy from our local tt shop even tells he needs hardwood handles as this adds some stiffness, so I assumed it should behave similar with a cross grained handle.

Mdf doesn't have any grain, there's no direction for any vibration to really travel in.
Hardwood may not necessarily add much stiffness, but the hardness of the material might help propagate the right vibrational frequencies to feel good.

 

[SDC]

Ok, thats strange.
I once made a blade with a handle made of MDF and it felt mushy.
As soon as I changed it to a normal wooden handle it felt a lot better.
The guy from our local tt shop even tells he needs hardwood handles as this adds some stiffness, so I assumed it should behave similar with a cross grained handle.

When you first cut the shape of the blade, and it does not have the handle pieces on, the blade is free to bend along all of it's length. If you measure the frequency at this point in the build process, it will be a lot lower than when the blade is finished. When you glue the handle pieces, you create a restraint, and basically create a cantilever, reducing the bending length. The bending point is roughly 1.5cm above the tip of the handle, depending on the stiffness of the composition. That's where blades often break due to excessive stress. Anything that happens below this point is irrelevant in terms of stiffness. In terms of vibrations and how that translates to hand feel? That's a different story... but once you allow the minimum conditions to create that restraint, it is done, you can't add more stiffness. And it does not take much to do it, just as long as the bond is good, a Balsa handle adds the same stiffness as a Ebony handle.

I always use a longitudinal underlayer, but for different reasons, I need the handle piece to be stable and not warp during routing, and to make sure I can provide a good bond later when I glue it to the blade. MDF doesn't work well with certain types of glues, that may be a reason. I've made plenty cork handles without any decrease in stiffness. As for the cross grain Walnut, it's still sufficiently stiff do be applied on it's own without an underlayer, just try to bend it with your own hands and see if you can. I just don't do it for the previously stated reasons.

 

[SDC]

For those wondering why it takes so long...

11 blades, 4 customers. No line work, very little common ground between them. I make everything from scratch, there are no pre-set recipes, no handles bought somewhere else to make it easier. Each one of these blades was exhaustively discussed with the owner in terms of composition, shape, handle, weight, balance... It's a lot of work, but I love what I do. I will continue doing it as long as players out there allow me to. I appreciate all the patience you guys have, it's not easy waiting more than a year for a blade, or a bunch of time just to get your email answered, but I'm doing my absolute best here and I promise my full effort to make it worth your while.

 

[Tyce]

Dude, I appreciate it, but let's be fair: I knew it was going to be a substantial wait list when I asked for a number. We're not "waiting for a blade for over a year", we're getting a number and going on with our lives until that day when we get to the front of the line. Really, don't sweat it. I wouldn't want you to hurry up and rush anyone's blade just for the sake of getting the queue down.
I know we live in the era of instant gratification. That doesn't mean we need to play into that all the time.

Keep up the good work! This batch of blades is looking great as usual

 

[Taute]

Dude, I appreciate it, but let's be fair: I knew it was going to be a substantial wait list when I asked for a number. We're not "waiting for a blade for over a year", we're getting a number and going on with our lives until that day when we get to the front of the line. Really, don't sweat it. I wouldn't want you to hurry up and rush anyone's blade just for the sake of getting the queue down.
I know we live in the era of instant gratification. That doesn't mean we need to play into that all the time.

Keep up the good work! This batch of blades is looking great as usual

What's your number? Mine is 253, but I'm willing to wait a year for a blade to be made for me: good things don't come quickly

 

[Tyce]

What's your number? Mine is 253, but I'm willing to wait a year for a blade to be made for me: good things don't come quickly

I'm at 194 but still figuring out what I would want when time comes

 

[Taute]

What's your number? Mine is 253, but I'm willing to wait a year for a blade to be made for me: good things don't come quickly

I don't really understand the properties of different materials (koto, kyri and etc.) and their "compatibility" with each other I'm waiting for my turn and I hope that the manufacturer, having figured out my playing style, will "combine" the right blade

 

[SDC]

#1357 - 11ply - DEF

Probably a world's first, eleven Koto plies. The goal was a very stable defensive blade, feels very similar to the Goriki, which has the same philosophy, but perhaps a tad crisper.

- 11x Koto
- 102.6g
- 5.4mm
- 165x155mm
- ST (100x23.7x29.3mm)
- Balance: 3.7cm (High)

 

[SDC]

Finished the last batch of blades of 2025, getting them ready for shipping. Roughly 200 blades later the cycle ends, a new one will begin. It's been another tough year, a lot of work, some health issues, but many good things too! Hopefully, 2026 will bring new and better things to SDC, so that I can continue to improve, and create the best blades possible for you.

I wish everyone a wonderful new year!

 

[Grumms]

The 2 at the front are going to France, right?

 

[SDC]

The 2 at the front are going to France, right?

Maybe! 😂

 

[SDC]

I don't think I would be able to name them all correctly if I saw this photo, there's some tricky ones! 😅

 

[zeio]

Finished the last batch of blades of 2025, getting them ready for shipping. Roughly 200 blades later the cycle ends, a new one will begin. It's been another tough year, a lot of work, some health issues, but many good things too! Hopefully, 2026 will bring new and better things to SDC, so that I can continue to improve, and create the best blades possible for you.

I wish everyone a wonderful new year!

A quick and ignorant question. For the 2 Cybershape-esque blades, are the lighter and darker regions of the top ply due to springwood and summerwood or 2 separate veneers being spliced together?