Sweaty Hands :(

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I have been using the Tibhar grip tape. It's for badminton, but you can obviously use it for table tennis too. My whole body sweats a lot when I play including my hands. I also wipe them on my shorts and rarely use a towel to wipe the handle. It still looks new under the tape and I make sure to change it every four weeks. I don't care about weight because I just get used to it, but the tape does change the center of the weight distribution. Without it my blade is very head heavy and with it it's evened out which I prefer. What happens and what I don't like is depending on the amount of sweat and pressure from my hand the feeling of grip can change. So sometimes I have days when it feels completely different. Additional note: can't recommend the Nittaku tape. While it's made for table tennis so you don't have to cut it, it's expensive, you only get one per package and sweat got through. The amount of tape left after cutting with the Tibhar one is enough for another taping.
 
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I use the ultra thin Wilson tennis grip tape, cut to 1/3 the length. It's pretty cheap and adds less than 2 grams of weight. I use it to make my HL5/national W968's handle slightly thicker, not for grip reasons. The flare of the handle is enough to keep it from flying out of my hand.
 
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Approximately how much weight does this add? (Bty grip tape adds ~5 g)…
I couldnt know but surely more than that, but since the added weight is at my fist i doesnt hinders my chops and flicks. They're quite cheap on ALi and you can wrap up to 6 blades in total with the 2 bands in the package
 
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Some overgrip tapes for tennis rackets are "absorbent" and it may help. I also use a wristband to avoid sweat from the arm to move toward the hand. I noticed not all handles make my hand sweat the same. The Victas Euro Feeling Off- in example is the one that makes me sweat the most. I guess it's because it's like knurled, it is made of many small pieces of cypress wood and it produces much more grip. Perhaps a smooth handle could be best.
 
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I knew a guy who chalked his hands throughout his sessions. Used rock climbing chalk. A bit messy but it worked well for him
 
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A bit messy and of course chalk ends up on the ball and quick you will be disqualified 😂
I'd prefer chalk to sweat. A bit of chalk seems makes little to no difference, after all brand new balls come with a bit of powder on them and it doesn't really make a big difference (at least to me) unless the dust has built up on the rubber
 
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any problems from blades (wet over time)?

There can be yes -- potentially it can be very bad for your blade over time... but it depends a lot on the species of wood in your handle, in the blade itself, and the amount of sweat you produce.

All timber 'moves' to a certain degree -- by this I mean that all wood works like a kitchen sponge -- it has the potential to absorb moisture either from the air (or in this case your hands) and swell up in size in the process, just like a kitchen sponge.
This moisture is then lost as the wood dries out, and the wood shrinks again. This can in some cases cause warping or cupping in the wood as well (or other similar defects).

It is impossible to stop wood moving without completely encasing it in something like solid epoxy. All sealants like varnish, shellac, PU etc ever do is slow the process down to the point we don't notice. Different woods move different amounts, and absorb/ lose water at different rates.

If your hands sweaty a LOT, and the handle isn't sealed, then the excess moisture can soak into the handle scales, causing them to swell up, and get thicker. If it's a flexy blade, this has the potential to alter the way your blade flexes, and by extension, alter the throw angle (only the tiniest amount mind you, but still potentially enough to alter the ball's landing point on the other side of the table by a significant amount.

Wet wood also rots / degrades quicker, so you're not going to get as much life out of a blade.

Worst of all though, water will 'wick' along the full length of a piece of wood, given enough time and moisture. This moisture can then (theoretically / potentially) also then start moving into any other piece of dry wood that's touching the wetter wood. (Glue can slow this down or potentially stop it in some places, but only if that glue is impervious to water, and many types of wood glue arent. Through this mechanism, the average moisture content of your entire blade has the potential to change.

Furthermore, really sweaty hands + unsealed handle scales can cause problems with your outer veneers degrading over time, **especially if the end grain of the outer veneer is getting wet at the base and sides of the handle.**

If this happens, water can slowly wick up and through the wood, eventually reaching the playing surface. If this happens it doesn't really matter if you seal the playing surface or not, it's going to suffer some water damage anyway, as your handle sweat will wick up through the timber *underneath* the sealant, basically white-anting it from the inside out.

Granted, this is all a very slow process. For all of this to happen quickly, you'd need to basically be soaking the handle in a bucket of water for several hours a day... But if you hand sweats enough, and if you play often enough for your handle to costtantly be wet for several hours a week, then water damage to your blade is not exactly going to be a slow process either.

Long story short -- to extend your blade's lifetime and preserve its throw angle, always seal your handles. This won't stop the process, but it will slow it down a lot, to the point you get a decent life out of your blade. If you don't like Polyurethane on your handles, try a drying-oil based sealant instead eg: linseed oil or Osmo oil.

(NB: for further info on the various effects of excess moisture on dried wood, google the term "what is wood movement in carpentry, and how do you deal with it?").
 
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There can be yes -- potentially it can be very bad for your blade over time... but it depends a lot on the species of wood in your handle, in the blade itself, and the amount of sweat you produce.

All timber 'moves' to a certain degree -- by this I mean that all wood works like a kitchen sponge -- it has the potential to absorb moisture either from the air (or in this case your hands) and swell up in size in the process, just like a kitchen sponge.
This moisture is then lost as the wood dries out, and the wood shrinks again. This can in some cases cause warping or cupping in the wood as well (or other similar defects).

It is impossible to stop wood moving without completely encasing it in something like solid epoxy. All sealants like varnish, shellac, PU etc ever do is slow the process down to the point we don't notice. Different woods move different amounts, and absorb/ lose water at different rates.

If your hands sweaty a LOT, and the handle isn't sealed, then the excess moisture can soak into the handle scales, causing them to swell up, and get thicker. If it's a flexy blade, this has the potential to alter the way your blade flexes, and by extension, alter the throw angle (only the tiniest amount mind you, but still potentially enough to alter the ball's landing point on the other side of the table by a significant amount.

Wet wood also rots / degrades quicker, so you're not going to get as much life out of a blade.

Worst of all though, water will 'wick' along the full length of a piece of wood, given enough time and moisture. This moisture can then (theoretically / potentially) also then start moving into any other piece of dry wood that's touching the wetter wood. (Glue can slow this down or potentially stop it in some places, but only if that glue is impervious to water, and many types of wood glue arent. Through this mechanism, the average moisture content of your entire blade has the potential to change.

Furthermore, really sweaty hands + unsealed handle scales can cause problems with your outer veneers degrading over time, **especially if the end grain of the outer veneer is getting wet at the base and sides of the handle.**

If this happens, water can slowly wick up and through the wood, eventually reaching the playing surface. If this happens it doesn't really matter if you seal the playing surface or not, it's going to suffer some water damage anyway, as your handle sweat will wick up through the timber *underneath* the sealant, basically white-anting it from the inside out.

Granted, this is all a very slow process. For all of this to happen quickly, you'd need to basically be soaking the handle in a bucket of water for several hours a day... But if you hand sweats enough, and if you play often enough for your handle to costtantly be wet for several hours a week, then water damage to your blade is not exactly going to be a slow process either.

Long story short -- to extend your blade's lifetime and preserve its throw angle, always seal your handles. This won't stop the process, but it will slow it down a lot, to the point you get a decent life out of your blade. If you don't like Polyurethane on your handles, try a drying-oil based sealant instead eg: linseed oil or Osmo oil.

(NB: for further info on the various effects of excess moisture on dried wood, google the term "what is wood movement in carpentry, and how do you deal with it?").
thank you for your detailed explanation

I have only heard of the amateur explanation that wet sweat will damage the blade and make it more flex (from stiff choices most players choose), the playing characteristics changes. So the ones who sweat more, will change blades quicker.

basically even without sweaty hands, pros or semi pros, who change often enough, due to "wet glue".
In fact that was the first I learnt of this issue many years ago, and then when I know of those that have sweaty hands, I learnt they change blades every 2 to 3 months.

your explanation basically covered everything in detail
it is great to have a blade master around!
 
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How can a blade have a throw angle?

Through flexing, or not flexing, during impact.

Every time the blade strikes the ball, ithe ball imparts a certain amount of bending force to the blade. This will usually make the blade flex and vibrate during impact (usually in more than one direction, but in designing a blade it's the longitudinal flex of the playing surface away from the ball you concern yourself with most. If you have to deal with excessive rotational flex (ie torsional twist) then there's usually something wrong with your wood sandwich, as the blade can become unplayable if it twists too much).

A blade doesn't flex very much from impact usually -- it's typically anywhere from a few millimetres to a centimetre or more when measured at the top tip of the blade (though some blades are design to flex enormously in order to create disruption when blocking with long pips).

Even with a small amount of impact related deflection of the playing surface, that is still enough force however to alter the rebound angle of the ball slightly as it leaves the blade. For every fraction of a degree of difference in rebound angle, the effect that flex has on the blall's flight path is magnified by simple geometry as the ball travels further away from the blade's playing surface. Ergo, you get different rebound paths.

To see this phenomenon for yourself, find yourself both a very stiff blade, and an extremely flexible one. Fit both blades with the same rubbers, then either try hitting balls from a robot with them both, or even better, try firing balls at them both while their handles are firmly bolted to something solid. Though the ball's incoming trajectory may be the same, the outgoing one won't be after impact, simply because the orientation of the *flexible* blade's playing surface has deviated more from the impact of the ball when compared to the stiff blade.

This is why consistently stiffer styles of blades (eg thick balsa cored all-wood blades) tend to have a lower throw than other more flexible models (eg 5.5mm all-wood 5-plys with thinner than average cores .).
 
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Every time I play I actively sweat a lot, especially my hands. I noticed the issue is my rubbers usually wear out quicker than expected so now I can't serve with my hands on the rubber, only in shake hand position. Any tips with dealing with this? Thanks.
Here in Brazil, we have some products to reduce the sweat while playing, im gonna leave a link for you to see. But first here is my impressions about the product.

1- Cheap cost (for me) and it delivers a lot.
2 - i do not have sweaty hands, but it can drys for a long period, more than 2 hours, without applying more gel.
3 - in my case, i only use a drop of the product, because it is strong, for me.

here is the link: https://handdry.com.br/sports-grip.asp

hope i could helped
 
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