What oils can be used as boosters?

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Ok i started to play with my old sheet of neo h3.... But i was unable to remove the old vlue....so i keep itlike the the first glue layer.... For the booster i chose sesam oil cold pressed...... Why not :).... No one has try it before....
And here is the picture from the first layer. 1444841128955-1426833409.jpg
 
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Hmmm this morning the rubber is more bent the when i started... but the wrong side ... ?
Im still waiting next 12 H to apply second layer ... but is this ok ?
 
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Ok i get angry so i have deside to get rid of the old glue......
Here it is near the finish...... I think all oil is only in the glue....1444940647973177458581.jpg
 
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I don't see how vegetable oils will do any good. When vegetable oils dry they leave a sticky mess.
I am not sure what you guys are trying to accomplish. The goal should be to increase elasticity. Just making a sponge soft doesn't help increase the tangential or normal COR.

Paraffin oil and mineral oil are alkanes which is basically a chain of carbon atoms with a hydrogen atoms attached to the carbon atoms. The simplest alkane is methane which is a gas. Lamp oil is a liquid because the chain of carbon atoms is longer. Mineral oil has an even longer chain of carbon atoms so it is a little less volatile than lamp oil. If the carbon chains get longer the result is a petroleum jelly or paraffin wax. All are paraffin oils. There is some debate about how safe paraffin oils are but they are used in a lot of cosmetics and even in laxatives.

Not all paraffin oils have the same length of carbon chains but they will be similar in length. Some paraffin oils will be lighter than others.

I have lamp oil. Lamp oil evaporates too quickly to be noticeable for any length of time no matter how well you loop. I would try baby oil which is simply scented mineral oil because its effects may last longer than the lighter lamp oil. Making the rubber soggy doesn't help increase the COR. Liquids don't compress much. Making the sponge heavier with oil means that more of the energy that is absorbed by the sponge must be used to return the sponge back to its original shape and not to the ball. The ultimate sponge would be very light and mostly air.
Paraffin oils break down latex. If you glue top sheets to the sponge I think you should avoid applying paraffin oils.
The TT manufacturers probably use a non latex glue to glue the top sheet to the sponge.

I think I have a 2mm HRS sponge. If I weigh it and the pour some lamp oil on it I bet the sponge weighs the same as before after about a half hour. I have a scale that is accurate to 0.01 gm. If put vegetable oil on the sponge I bet it doesn't evaporate and simply adds to the weight.

I have no idea what is in Dianichi. Lamp oil is oderless. Dianichi has an oder then it probably isn't a paraffin based oil.


Meanwhile NextLevel and UpsideDownCarl are taking their cheap shots even though they don't know anything.
 
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Hmmmmm interesting..... But what about sun flover oil or olive oil..... I readed they are alo using for boosting. This is why i hwve tried the sesamic oil. But i will buy baby oil when it is better. And the reverse dome was there just after i take down the rubber from the blade.
 
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Hmmmmm interesting..... But what about sun flover oil or olive oil.....
spread a small big of sun flower oil or olive oil on a plate and wait for it to dry. If the vegetable oils dry and don't leave a sticky spot then try it but I wouldn't expect any vegetable oil to do anything but gum up your rubbers.

I readed they are alo using for boosting. This is why i hwve tried the sesamic oil.
There are lot of TT myths circulating.
Remember, liquid doesn't compress much and the goal is to increase elasticity.
Also, when the sponge returns energy to the ball it must also expand itself to restore to the original shape. The heavier the sponge is relative to the ball the greater the percentage of energy goes to expanding the rubber and not the ball.
 
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I can see stooge #3 is active.

I did the experiment I mentioned. I have a 2mm sponge 43 degree HRS rubber. It feels firm as you would expect. I put it on my scale and it weighed 22.24 gm. I poured over 11 gm of fine lamp oil on the sponge. Eventually the sponge started to dome and the excess oil spilled off and on to my precious scale and made a mess. About 1.5 hrs later the sponge feels dry but it is easy to see the sponge is still domed and the sponge is thicker where the lamp oil pooled. The sponge feels dry as if the lamp oil all evaporated by my scale doesn't lie. The sponge is 23.57 gm or more than a gram heavier.

I have one of the durometer hardness measuring devices around somewhere but I don't know where it is and know one has seen it for a while. I would like to measure the difference in the hardness. The expanded part does feel softer but I don't know if it is more elastic.

The point is that the effect of lamp oil does last longer than I though. Much longer than when the sponge appears to have dried out. I am going to put some water on a part of the sponge that didn't get any lamp oil to see if water also makes the sponge expand like my kitchen sponges do.

I am using the term lamp oil instead of paraffin oil because even though my lamp oil is a paraffin oil it is a very light paraffin oil.
 
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The stuff I always used to use is paraffin and baby oil (mineral oil) combined. Baby oil works to some extent. Paraffin works better. The two combined are decent. I have never tried other oils but I have heard other people say that they have used things like vegetable oil. But it is true, I don't really know why oil works to boost the rubber. I just know that the stuff that expands the rubber usually gives a boost effect. Pnachtwey's water expanding the sponge thing is interesting. It is true, water would expand the sponge and you probably can't use it because of reasons like, the wood of your blade. The idea of extra gas in the air bubbles is also an interesting idea.

I do know that the things that have the best boost effect are also the things that evaporate the fastest. The effect of speed glue only lasted for a day or a few days at most. The reason I don't boost any more is: 1) it is a waste of time. 2) I boosted when I used H3 but I also found that, unlike other people my contact is, perhaps too direct for H3. I would wear out the topsheet of an H3 in about 3 weeks. It was weird. There would be this shinny patch where I contacted the ball with my FH and it would be shinny and smooth and all the tack was gone from that area. That part of the sponge played almost like anti-spin and the rest of the topsheet was still grippy. There was nothing I was able to do to restore the tackiness. The first two times it happened, I thought it was just a bad sheet. Then when it kept happening I realized that it was how my stroke was. It might work for me now. But I like what I am using and don't want to waste my time boosting rubbers.

So, I like and use ESN rubbers or Tenergy.

By the way, I also think that Pnachtwey's liquid in the air bubbles idea is interesting. It may be exactly why, when you use too much baby oil, the rubber feels mushy and not good for several days. Then it starts feeling okay after that. Mushy sponge could be oil in the air bubbles instead of air.
 
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I poured water on two of the corners not covered by the lamp oil. I squeezed the sponge trying to get the water to soak in but nothing noticeable happened.
Meanwhile after 4 hours the sponge is still domed. I don't think I will every be able to apply a top sheet to this sponge but what the heck, it was sacrificed for a good cause.

Edit, 6 hours after applying the lamp oil the sponge is still 1.23 gm heavier and still looks pretty much the same as in the picture. The corners where I pour water don't seem to be affected at all.

IMG_20151016_125222419.jpg
 
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