What's a good beginner set up?

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Crayon, first I will give you a bit of information: Carbon blades, forget about them for now! If you are on the newer side of playing higher level table tennis, then you want ALL WOOD. An all wood blade helps you feel the ball better. If you get the right all wood blade you get better feel, dwell time and as a result, better spin.

A carbon blade is good for someone who is already at an elite level: 2200+ (USATT rating). By that time your technique is good enough to utilize the positive benefits of carbon without being hindered by the negative effects.

The reason someone below about 2200 level would be better off with all wood is this: carbon blocks feeling and that slows your ability to improve your technique in how you contact the ball, how you touch the ball.

A carbon blade will make good contact and bad contact feel the same. You will get good shots from bad contact and you will get good shots from good contact. So you won't realize which is which. And that will slow your ability to reach a true higher level.

An all wood blade, you will feel when your contact is good and when you really spin the ball well and it will feel GOOD. And when your contact is not as good, your shot will not be quite as good, but, more importantly, it will not feel anywhere near as good. So, without you even thinking or realizing it, you will end up improving your contact and your strokes because your blade is giving you the information of when you do something better and when you do something not as well.

Usually, when someone is around 2200 level, their technique is good enough to use wood or carbon. Some players there technique is good enough at around 2000. But most players at 2000 still have issues in their technique that need to be refined. So all wood is usually better.

Now, for your issue of needing something at a reasonable price. Something that is good but is inexpensive. The first thing I would say is, coming with us to Lily Yip's TTC would have, in the end helped you learn more than you can imagine and, in the long run, saved you a lot of money.

But here is something that can save you a lot of money too:

This blade should cost $30.00 + $5.00 shipping. That is $35.00 total. You could even order 2, the shipping would still be $5.00 so you would have a backup blade too for $65.00.

Go to colestt.com

Go to the link that says: Combos

http://colestt.com/combos.php

For the blade choose:

Galaxy 896 blade.

For rubbers choose:

Dawei 2008XP

There are rubbers that are about as good. There are ones that might be a little better that cost significantly more. But that is a great combination and you can't get anything for less that will be even close to as good. There are many setups that cost over $100.00 that are not as good.

That is what I would do, if I was you and I wanted a good racket and I was on a budget like yours.



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says Spin and more spin.
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Thank you Carl!
I'd love to go to Lily's with you guys but the problem is my parents won't let me go.

Got it.

Well, one day we will arrange to meet at SPiN and hit for an hour or so. Table will be on me.


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What a good beginner set up?

USATT rating of 2000 means your a decently high level intermediate player. But, usually, there are still some technical flaws in your game.

At about 2200 a players technique usually has to be very solid to get to that level and maintain it.

A 2000 level player is really, pretty darn good. But when a 2000 level player plays someone better than him, or a really weird style of player, their technique can still be broken down and made to play at a level that is lower than they usually are.

By about 2200, the technique becomes much more solid and this stops happening. So a 2200 player may play someone much better and lose, or play a weird style of player and struggle, but their technique won't break down as a result of being outclassed or confused.

At that level, carbon blades become much more useful.

Of course, this is a generalization. I know guys who really are 2000-2100 whose technique is 2300-2400 technique but their focus and game strategy is not as high as their technique. I also know guys whose actual level is about 2200 but whose technique is really around 1900-2000 but they are very smart players.

So it does depend. But when a player's technique is truly solid then a composite blade has more value than when a player is more at an intermediate or beginner level.


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We all know I have a score of 9000

LOL. Given that the highest rating to date is 2979, being a 9000 level means you must be darn good. 9000, that is more than 3x better than the best rating ever.

Okay, I am sure you meant 900. Nothing wrong with being whatever level you are. You will soon get to see footage of me getting crushed by Der_Echte and NextLevel. Those guys are enough better than me to make me look bad. Too bad we didn't get footage of any of the singles matches I won. I won't mention names. But, in the doubles match where Matt Hetherington and I take on NextLevel and Der_Echte, I hold own decently.

In any case, level doesn't matter much. But slimjimmi is darn good and he is playing a tricky and frustrating opponent. It is hard to look good against a player like that. And he is still playing pretty well. I know I wouldn't criticize the footwork because he is so much better than me that it would seem foolish to me.

He is also better than most of the players in NYC except a small handful of semi-pro players.


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Carl how long have you been playing for and whats your rating.

I started when I was 44. I am 50 now. I have been playing for a little over 6 years. August 2016 it will be 7 years.

I am mid level. My official USATT rating is 1668. But that was from a tournament at least 4 years ago and back then, 1) I doubt my level was that high, 2) I did a lot of really weird things that weren't good technique but won a lot of points off of players who were in the 1600-1700 range.

At some point, about 3 years ago, I rebuilt all my strokes and changed my technique completely. It was hard. My level went way down as I was trying to learn better strokes. But now, my level is probably about 1800. I have friends who are 2000+ who have told me I am at least 1850 and maybe higher. But I know that there are guys who are in the 1400-1500 range who can have a good day and beat me. And I know I have certain weaknesses that higher level players just don't need to exploit. So they don't even bother figuring those things out. So, maybe I am 1800 or maybe I am a little lower than 1800. Not really sure. You have to actually earn the numbers for them to mean something.

The way Michael Landers said it to me: "there are some things you can do that are way above your level. Your ball quality (the amount of pace and spin) is way better than most people your level. At least it is when you are not pressured. But, there are a few things you need to work on. If your feet and your reaction time was better, you could go up 200-300 points almost instantly."

Hope that makes sense. But as an older guy who has done most of my training, change of technique and development myself and with the help of friends who aren't really coaches, and without the benefit of that much actual coaching, I feel pretty good about where I am.


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What a good beginner set up?

That may be the case. The rating system in Canada could be completely different. I am not sure either. But there will be someone who knows on this forum. Also, there are times when someone very good is underrated.

1900 in the German TTR rating system is about 2300 in USATT rating system.


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Hi there. Try to find a Chinese brand setup which is cheap. A 5-ply all wood blade with some controllable rubbers in 1.7-1.9mm in thickness. When you are ready you can spend some more money on a more expensive setup. If you are looking for something more specific please tell us how you play do when can help you narrow down your options.
 
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UPDC's suggestion is good but I would spend a little more for a paddle you can play with for a longer time. I would get a galaxy W6 with H3Neo on the FH and IQUL 1.8mm on the BH. Get these from colestt.com
My suggestion will still be around $70 but it is much better. You won't outgrow it soon.

I have a Samsonov Alpha(wood) with H3Neo on the FH and IQUL 1.8 on the BH. I always get 1.8mm on the back hand but I vary between reg and soft. I think the last one was reg.

There is no need to get anything fast until you start playing back from the table.
 
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what color is the forehand usually?

Don't take this the wrong way.

The OPPOSITE color of the Backhand rubber color.

There is no one color by itself that outshines another, you use what you have available. I like the look and feel of BLACK FX-P when I have it for FH, but if all I got is RED MX-P for FH, so be it and I will still loop like a boss.
 
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