What's a good beginner set up?

[Der_Echte]

I am not such a fan of H3 for general allround offensive development. I get it, H3 is a slowish rubber with potential slow control, but learning from something more dynamic and also controlable is better. If you wanna be a forward swinning slapshot loop driver monster, go ahead and knock yourself out with H3. I have a spare bat with H3 as a BH rubber, but I can use just about any inverted rubber on BH except anti-rubber.

I have even less an opinion of Palio CJ8000. If you wanna go the cheepo route, you cannot beat XP 2008 or Inspirit Quattro or IQ Ultra-Light for the money and alround OFF control. I say that even though I am a USA distributor of another brand that sells more expensive stuff. XP 2008 and IQUL will cost $8 and $14 respectively from colestt.com and my BH rubber costs $20 so make up your own mind about what works for you and your money.

What you play with is what you play with and if it suits your style you are trying to evolve into, go right ahead, you wont hear negative stuff outta me.

 

[Pnachtwey]

The key is to have a standard for the FH and BH. If you are not consistent then it will be hard do mix and match FH and BH rubbers.

I use black as the FH and Red as the BH rubber.

 

[changed_23]

Thank you!!

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

If you have a racket and money is an issue, just play with what you have.

Some good info has already been given to you. Your racket has to have two colored rubbers. One has to be black. The other has to be red. Those are actually the rules. But either red or black can be FH as long as the other color is BH.

Some people like the black rubber to be FH. Some people like the red rubber to be FH. Take your pick. If you do get a different rubber for each side you just have to remember which is FH and which is BH. That is what I think Pnachtwey was implying as well.


Sent from Deep Space by Abacus

 

[Ilia Minkin]

Avoid things that are on extreme sides. Go for things that make life easier. Get an ALL blade, some softish inverted rubbers on both sides and have fun. Why? Suppose that you make a lot of mistakes and you ask yourself why. If you know that it should be easy to play with your gear, you will immediately know that there is something wrong with your basic technique. But if you play with some fancy stuff, like H3, you will bury yourself with questions. Like "should I boost it with lamp oil? or some obscure substance from China?", "should I speedglue it like those 2000+ level players on the far table do?", "should I spend 40$ on allegedly provincial version of teh same rubber because some guys on the internet say that the commercial is unplayable?", "is there is a special technique for playing with this rubber and what it is?" and so on and so on. It is just non-productive.

 

[changed_23]

alrighttt

 

[changed_23]

I see the point graciasaasasassss

 

[fais]

You probably don't want to start off with extremely high throw rubbers either. Middle throw rubbers (going for allround all around, not just the blade) can help quite a bit because the equipment won't aid you with something in particular, nor compensate for any beginner's weaknesses. Instead, you will be forced to correct your technique in order to accomplish different tasks.

The most significant jump I made (and that too a few months ago) was to act on what UDC has been suggesting. I got myself an allround+ blade, Mildy boosted my Chinese rubbers to enhance feel and control and have tentatively retired my stiga NCT for when I can use it, not abuse it.

 

[Der_Echte]

I am usually on the opposite end of Pundits (when they say this or this is the ONLY way to go) but in this situation I am with them in both spirit and the world.

The reason one ought to choose middle of the road OFF control setups (that is an ALL to low end OFF blade and control OFF rubbers) is that such a setup allows you to play every shot well, not exceptionally well (except for control, but remember, if your great shot doesn't land it is a sucky shot) but such a middle of the road setup lets you evolve into whatever you discover later. At the time, you could always keep the blade and rubber or move to something a bit more psecialized and specific to what you are doing. At that point, hopefully, you got a solid foundation and strokes.

Although you can get an OFF+ Schlager Carbon or Super ZJK (for big bucks) and slap on Tenergyz, and STILL be able to learn the strokes, it is soooo much easier to learn it all with middle ground stuff, your feel will be soooo much better later.

 

[changed_23]

Alright cool ty

 

[Rajah*]

9000 forest gump

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Jaru]

Went to a tournament in the UK and went around asking this question to a variety of coaches present.

Overwhelming advice was the Butterfly Primorac OFF- with Sriver FX 1.9-2.1 on each side.

Less specifically, Blade= / medium stiffness / 5 ply / all wood.
Rubber= / soft / medium speed / Japanese/Euro.

Took the stated Primorac option and it is a great setup to lear/further all the strokes

Hope this helps

 

[Ilia Minkin]

Went to a tournament in the UK and went around asking this question to a variety of coaches present.

Overwhelming advice was the Butterfly Primorac OFF- with Sriver FX 1.9-2.1 on each side.

Less specifically, Blade= / medium stiffness / 5 ply / all wood.
Rubber= / soft / medium speed / Japanese/Euro.

Took the stated Primorac option and it is a great setup to lear/further all the strokes

Hope this helps

Looks like you met a team of well-trained Butterfly salesmen

 

[Jaru]

Looks like you met a team of well-trained Butterfly salesmen

Haha, must say there were a fair few butterfly enthusiasts about. Though other setups where mentioned.

Really happy with my decision though.... just a bit pricey

 

[Inkognito]

Went to a tournament in the UK and went around asking this question to a variety of coaches present.

Overwhelming advice was the Butterfly Primorac OFF- with Sriver FX 1.9-2.1 on each side.

Less specifically, Blade= / medium stiffness / 5 ply / all wood.
Rubber= / soft / medium speed / Japanese/Euro.

Took the stated Primorac option and it is a great setup to lear/further all the strokes

Hope this helps

When I was headtrainer for a club in Denmark, we had 2 setups to choose between for the ones in development. Stiga Allround classic + thin Stiga Mendo and Butterfly Grubba Allround + thin Sriver. Made the progress with the technique of the players a bit easier. I have always promoted a slower setup in the early stages of the table tennis career for a better foundation that later on had a bigger chance to evolve at a faster pace

 

[Jaru]

When I was headtrainer for a club in Denmark, we had 2 setups to choose between for the ones in development. Stiga Allround classic + thin Stiga Mendo and Butterfly Grubba Allround + thin Sriver. Made the progress with the technique of the players a bit easier. I have always promoted a slower setup in the early stages of the table tennis career for a better foundation that later on had a bigger chance to evolve at a faster pace

Interesting you advise the Grubba All + thin sriver. It was another setup i was recommended regularly.

My main aim at the moment is to work on my brush looping. Do you think my setup is not ideal for this? Or still good but not what you would call the 'best'?

 

[fais]

I built a coworker a a paddle he hasn't had the chance to collect (he has been out of town) - Yinhe E3 VB with DHS TG3 neo forehand (40 degrees 2 thin layers of baby oil) and Yinhe Mercury 2 (33 degrees, one layer of baby oil). The baby oil treatment is not really to supercharge the rubbers, merely to remove the reverse dome, stretch the top sheet a bit, and soften the sponge.

In his absence, I've decided to train with my right hand by being my own coach (I'm a left handed penhold player) and my improvement has astonished me as well my coworkers. What has blown me away is the incredible feedback this paddle provides. It's a jack of all trades blade with exceptional control and many gears. A blade I put together in under $60 I think is easily worth $120 or more. Today, I spent 15 minutes training another coworker (0 basics, No clue how to hit the ball) and the first thing he said was "vibration". As we did some drills, I told him to be cognicant of the feeling when making contact with the ball. In all but 10 minutes he understood How to loop and began ripping them (quite haphazardly of course, but he was was clearly grasping the concept I wasn't able to get him to do with store bought).

If you wish to train with Chinese, tacky rubbers, I cannot promote this paddle enough. The TG3 neo has a softer top sheet than H3 neo, and is a little more demanding when looping chops (which is good as it will force you to fix your technique), and has better control at blocking/driving. The Mercury 2 rubber has a higher throw which is very well suited for learning how to topspin with backhand, and quite descent at blocking and driving as well, and the fiber glass layer in the E-3 VB is to control what carbon/arylate is to attack.

Now, I'm looking to throw together an euro style equivalent for a coworker, and my experience with sriver has been very positive. Unfortunately, my coworker doesn't want to pay 40 bucks a sheet, so I am looking for Chinese non-tacky alternatives with medium throw and high gears. I'm hoping someone here can recommend some good options? I'm considering the Yinhe moon or the focus 3 snipe or anything else you guys can recommend would make a good alternative to sriver!

 

[Jaru]

I built a coworker a a paddle he hasn't had the chance to collect (he has been out of town) - Yinhe E3 VB with DHS TG3 neo forehand (40 degrees 2 thin layers of baby oil) and Yinhe Mercury 2 (33 degrees, one layer of baby oil). The baby oil treatment is not really to supercharge the rubbers, merely to remove the reverse dome, stretch the top sheet a bit, and soften the sponge.

In his absence, I've decided to train with my right hand by being my own coach (I'm a left handed penhold player) and my improvement has astonished me as well my coworkers. What has blown me away is the incredible feedback this paddle provides. It's a jack of all trades blade with exceptional control and many gears. A blade I put together in under $60 I think is easily worth $120 or more. Today, I spent 15 minutes training another coworker (0 basics, No clue how to hit the ball) and the first thing he said was "vibration". As we did some drills, I told him to be cognicant of the feeling when making contact with the ball. In all but 10 minutes he understood How to loop and began ripping them (quite haphazardly of course, but he was was clearly grasping the concept I wasn't able to get him to do with store bought).

If you wish to train with Chinese, tacky rubbers, I cannot promote this paddle enough. The TG3 neo has a softer top sheet than H3 neo, and is a little more demanding when looping chops (which is good as it will force you to fix your technique), and has better control at blocking/driving. The Mercury 2 rubber has a higher throw which is very well suited for learning how to topspin with backhand, and quite descent at blocking and driving as well, and the fiber glass layer in the E-3 VB is to control what carbon/arylate is to attack.

Now, I'm looking to throw together an euro style equivalent for a coworker, and my experience with sriver has been very positive. Unfortunately, my coworker doesn't want to pay 40 bucks a sheet, so I am looking for Chinese non-tacky alternatives with medium throw and high gears. I'm hoping someone here can recommend some good options? I'm considering the Yinhe moon or the focus 3 snipe or anything else you guys can recommend would make a good alternative to sriver!

Mark V was recommended to me as a cheap alternative to Sriver which plays similarly

 

[rokphish]

I found Mark V AD is easier to play with compared to Mark V. Also Sriver EL is better choice out of the three Sriver (L-EL-FX)

 

[Suga D]

...I have always promoted a slower setup in the early stages of the table tennis career for a better foundation that later on had a bigger chance to evolve at a faster pace

This is interesting. Me and probably many others learned this also, but speaking to coaches lately it seems this is changing.
Some coaches nowadays also recommend a bit faster setups with thicker sponges.
One of the reasons given was mainly that the kids are tought this way earlier about spin sensivity and tempo from thicker sponges, cause most children can adapt faster than grown-ups.