Which glue is more safe for the wood?

[Deku]

Hello


I have 2 questions.


The first one is:

I buyed a new Dhs Long 5 W968 (national).

Just wanted to ask which glue is the best for protecting the wood (limba) the most from splinter?

It's a Yinhee Mercy 2 rubber on both sides.

I will sealed to. But only with a very thin layer. So I'm curious about the better glue option. If there is one.

I'm not playin in some ITTF tournaments so it's not important if it's illegal or something. I just want to protect my racket as good as possible.

The rubber would be on the blade for like one year. Maybe a little more or less (depends on how much I play).


The second question I have:

After how long should I repeat the sealing with the (very) thin layer?

Like I said I would let the rubber around 1year on the racket.

And I don't want to change the characteristics of the wood to much but want to protect it from splinter to.


Thanks for reading this & I hope you can help me.
Sorry if the question was discussed before. I read much here but it has very much information but not really what I wanted to know.
Or contradictions & stuff.. & sorry for my bad English.
Have a nice day!

 

[Deku]

Push1#

 

[superbackhand]

speed glue on the blade - normal glue on rubber

 

[ben1229]

What # is your w968, I use dhs#15 glues, but I don't seal, I change my fh rubber every 4-5 weeks, I got no problem with the blade surface, and if you sealed it, don't worry about the surface that much, it will be ok.

 

[Wakkibatty]

If you use an oil-baded polyurethane sealant, you will only need to seal the blade's playing surface once. Two very thin coats should more than suffice, and will not ruin the feel of the blade.

The best way to do this is to use both a brush or rag, as well as a separate clean and dry, lint-free cloth. You wipe or paint one coat of sealant onto your blade (NB: oil-based poly can be quite thick sometimes, depending on the brand), then use your clean dry cloth to wipe off the excess. This will leave a very thin film of poly sealant on the blade.

Allow the poly to dry for at least 24 hours, then put on a second thin coat the same way. One thin coat is usually enough, but as you will be leaving the rubbers on the blade for a longer period than normal, I recommend you use two coats.

As for which glue to use, I recommend latex-based glue. Two thin coats on the blade, and one on the rubber. If you give each layer of glue plenty of time to dry properly (at least 5 minutes), then it should be just fine.

Do not fan the glue, or use hot air (eg: a hair dryer) to speed up the process, as this will often lead to shrinking, as will fitting the rubber when the glue is not completely dry.

A combo of oil based poly and latex glue should be more than sufficient to ensure your blade is not damaged over time. This is the exact same method I use when fitting rubbers to custom blades in my workshop / factory.

Hope this helps 🙂

 

[TensorBackhand]

Hello


I have 2 questions.


The first one is:

I buyed a new Dhs Long 5 W968 (national).

Just wanted to ask which glue is the best for protecting the wood (limba) the most from splinter?

It's a Yinhee Mercy 2 rubber on both sides.

I will sealed to. But only with a very thin layer. So I'm curious about the better glue option. If there is one.

I'm not playin in some ITTF tournaments so it's not important if it's illegal or something. I just want to protect my racket as good as possible.

The rubber would be on the blade for like one year. Maybe a little more or less (depends on how much I play).


The second question I have:

After how long should I repeat the sealing with the (very) thin layer?

Like I said I would let the rubber around 1year on the racket.

And I don't want to change the characteristics of the wood to much but want to protect it from splinter to.


Thanks for reading this & I hope you can help me.
Sorry if the question was discussed before. I read much here but it has very much information but not really what I wanted to know.
Or contradictions & stuff.. & sorry for my bad English.
Have a nice day!

Wait a minute....

Why do you have $5 rubber on a $900 blade!?

That seems crazy to me. Surely the W968 deserves better rubber to play to its real potential?

 

[Deku]

speed glue on the blade - normal glue on rubber

Speed glue=VOC? Normal=WBG? & why do you think that's the best way to protect the wood?

What # is your w968, I use dhs#15 glues, but I don't seal, I change my fh rubber every 4-5 weeks, I got no problem with the blade surface, and if you sealed it, don't worry about the surface that much, it will be ok.

How long are you using your blade now? sounds legit I mean to glue a dhs blade with a dhs glue.

If you use an oil-baded polyurethane sealant, you will only need to seal the blade's playing surface once. Two very thin coats should more than suffice, and will not ruin the feel of the blade.

The best way to do this is to use both a brush or rag, as well as a separate clean and dry, lint-free cloth. You wipe or paint one coat of sealant onto your blade (NB: oil-based poly can be quite thick sometimes, depending on the brand), then use your clean dry cloth to wipe off the excess. This will leave a very thin film of poly sealant on the blade.

Allow the poly to dry for at least 24 hours, then put on a second thin coat the same way. One thin coat is usually enough, but as you will be leaving the rubbers on the blade for a longer period than normal, I recommend you use two coats.

As for which glue to use, I recommend latex-based glue. Two thin coats on the blade, and one on the rubber. If you give each layer of glue plenty of time to dry properly (at least 5 minutes), then it should be just fine.

Do not fan the glue, or use hot air (eg: a hair dryer) to speed up the process, as this will often lead to shrinking, as will fitting the rubber when the glue is not completely dry.

A combo of oil based poly and latex glue should be more than sufficient to ensure your blade is not damaged over time. This is the exact same method I use when fitting rubbers to custom blades in my workshop / factory.

Hope this helps 🙂

Thank you very much for this long & detailed answer!
Why 2 very thin layer? wouldn't 1 be enough?
Why latex? I read it have ammonia in it what can harm the sealing/surface of the blade.
Wouldn't be normal VOC glue less dangerous or are VOC more aggressive than the ammonia in the latex glue?
Latex glue have water in it too, no? is it not like WBG what are one of the most dangerous glues because of the water (read it much here and on other sites too, but don't know how accurate this information are..).

Wait a minute....

Why do you have $5 rubber on a $900 blade!?

That seems crazy to me. Surely the W968 deserves better rubber to play to its real potential?

I will/want to use the blade for a life time/or so long as possible (reason for this question).
But I will change the rubber after a half - 1y - maybe even 1 1/2y (depends on how fast the tackiness goes away). Because I never played with this rubber before & it seem to have pretty good/not so bad reviews + have not so bad speed, spin, control & tackiness, I want to give it a try + it's not that thick, it haven't that catapult effect, so it pushes me to use the right technic & to perform the whole movement. And it's veeery cheap.

Maybe I will do another post & ask which rubber are the cheapest but have most spin, speed, control & tackiness for the money (after testing Mercury2). The blade was 500€. That's not cheap, but I really like the reviews of the blade (& I'm a big fan of Ma Long^^') but when the rubber is like 8/10 and the difference between this one and a 9/10 or 9.5/10 is 100€ why not trying? just my opinion maybe I'm wrong, but it can't harm to test it, right?

 

[TensorBackhand]

Speed glue=VOC? Normal=WBG? & why do you think that's the best way to protect the wood?

How long are you using your blade now? sounds legit I mean to glue a dhs blade with a dhs glue. it's the nr 32.

Thank you very much for this long & detailed answer!
Why 2 very thin layer? wouldn't 1 be enough?
Why latex? I read it have ammonia in it what can harm the sealing/surface of the blade.
Wouldn't be normal VOC glue less dangerous or are VOC more aggressive than the ammonia in the latex glue?
Latex glue have water in it too, no? is it not like WBG what are one of the most dangerous glues because of the water (read it much here and on other sites too, but don't know how accurate this information are..).

I will/want to use the blade for a life time/or so long as possible (reason for this question).
But I will change the rubber after a half - 1y - maybe even 1 1/2y (depends on how fast the tackiness goes away). Because I never played with this rubber before & it seem to have pretty good/not so bad reviews + have not so bad speed, spin, control & tackiness, I want to give it a try + it's not that thick, it haven't that catapult effect, so it pushes me to use the right technic & to perform the whole movement. And it's veeery cheap.

Maybe I will do another post & ask which rubber are the cheapest but have most spin, speed, control & tackiness for the money (after testing Mercury2). The blade was 500€. That's not cheap, but I really like the reviews of the blade (& I'm a big fan of Ma Long^^') but when the rubber is like 8/10 and the difference between this one and a 9/10 or 9.5/10 is 100€ why not trying? just my opinion maybe I'm wrong, but it can't harm to test it, right?

I think your wrong. I think Mercury 2 is more like 7/10.

If you pay $15, you can get some rubbers that are 9 or 9.5/10

I think w968 needs and deserves to have a 9/10 rubber.

 

[ben1229]

Around 2 months, reglued 2 times, got no problem with blade surface, and for the rubbers you choose, I have no ideas why , hope you put some better rubbers on it.

 

[Deku]

I think your wrong. I think Mercury 2 is more like 7/10.

If you pay $15, you can get some rubbers that are 9 or 9.5/10

I think w968 needs and deserves to have a 9/10 rubber.

Oh nice, which one would you recommend?
I used XIOM Vega Pro before. It was good, but tackiness wasn't at all (2.2)
On the site: https://revspin.net/top-rubber/tackiness-desc.html
Tackiness of the Mercury 2 is on place 97 (6.1)
Xiom: Speed 9.1. Spin 9.2. Control 8.7
Mercury: Speed 8.5. Spin 8.8. Control 8.7

On YT to was it recommended as a pretty good or at least not so bad rubber.

I don't know how accurate this information are.. but if it's only to 70, 80% true, i was thinking i should try them.

It would be just a lose of 10, 15€. No big deal. If I would feel it's way to slow, not enough spin and and I will buy some for 50€ or more, no problem, you are right, it would be a waste to use such a good blade with very bad rubber (6-7/10). 8 or 9/10 would be the least. & because I would use them for a half - 1 1/2 year, I would pay only 70-200€ in a year. That's not really much if you love something & do it every day for hours even 100 for 1 rubber would be fine (150-400 in a year).

I will feel it anyway. It have to be a tacky rubber. Maybe Mercury2 is not even enough tacky, so I would buy one what's even more tacky. If I miss the speed & spin, it have to be more spin & speed too, but I have to test them first, to know, if it's not enough tacky, speed & spin and and.

 

[Wakkibatty]

Thank you very much for this long & detailed answer!

Why 2 very thin layer? wouldn't 1 be enough?

Why latex? I read it have ammonia in it what can harm the sealing/surface of the blade.
Wouldn't be normal VOC glue less dangerous or are VOC more aggressive than the ammonia in the latex glue?

Latex glue have water in it too, no? is it not like WBG what are one of the most dangerous glues because of the water (read it much here and on other sites too, but don't know how accurate this information are..).

Yes, you can get away with one thin layer of poly - it should be fine. The second layer is just a precaution on my part, but it's not absolutely necessary (if people are new to varnishing / sealing blades, they can sometimes rub off too much when removing the excess).

Yes, many latex glues have trace amounts of ammonia - it is used as a preservative, and it prevents the latex from congealing while it is being milked from the rubber tree. Only a very small amount is used, and it does not harm the blade, or the playing rubbers (though the smell can be unpleasant. Some glues are ammonia free,but I've never tried using them.)

Yes, latex has water in it - it's a natural and biodegradable product sourced directly from rubber trees, then concentrated via a centrifuge to 60% solids content and 40% water. The remaining moisture evaporates from the glue however during drying, and besides which, oil-based poly is impervious to water once it's cured, so any remaining trace amounts of water remaining in the glue does no damage to the sealant or blade whatsoever.

The EXACT OPPOSITE is true however with VOC-based speed glues -- and here's why.

For the record, Volatile Organic Compounds frankly do not belong anywhere near your blade, and certainly not one as expensive as the one you are currently using.

VOCs need to be avoided not just for health reasons (and due to ITTF regulations), but also to protect your blade and make it last.

In my experience, poly is the most hard-wearing and durable wood sealant of all, but it does not stand up well at all to long-term exposure to VOCs, (be they in speed glue or booster) ...and neither does any other wood sealant I know of frankly.

The VOC solvents used in the speed glue era are (or were) frequently a mix of acetone, xylene and/or other equally carcinogenic and noxious hydrocarbons.

These chemicals are basically solvents for most types of plastic. They boost a rubber performance because they are slowly breaking down the foam and/or top-sheet, making them more pliable, and therefore faster. Being volatile they evaporate quickly, so the rubber doesn't dissolve completely (this also means however you are breathing a lot of that stuff in just by being in the same room with your blade)

These same toxic substances however also attack hydrocarbon polymer chains that may be present in your blade's plywood adhesives, and it's sealant.
I've had to repair several blades now which were damaged by the VOCs in common boosters eating away at the blade's sealant over time, then lifting fibers in the blades outer layers once they had also started to dissolve the PVA / PU / etc which was used to stick the blade together.

It is worth remembering that a lot of manufacturers changed their blades compositions, once VOCs were banned.
It meant that blade manufacturers no longer needed to use wood glues that were resistant to VOC solvents (eg: such as urea formaldehyde - a commonly used and very tough plywood glue that resists both water and most solvents, but also slowly leeches toxic formaldehyde gas into any environment it's used in. UE is bloody horrible stuff that stinks to high heaven, kills brain cells just by you sniffing it, and requires serious ventilation equipment, major PPE measures, (and in some territories a government license in order to use it).

In all honesty, I can't imagine a single blade manufacturer out there being sad to see the end of the speed glue era, and the banning of VOCs in general... These things are industrial-scale poisons that can cause permanent brain damage very quickly -- if you can smell the stuff, then it's already too late, and your brains cells have already started to die.

Blades just are NOT designed to withstand these kinds of solvents anymore, so for the sake of your blade (if not your health and frontal lobes) permanently ditch the speed glue and booster, and shift to factory-boosted rubbers instead.

 

[Deku]

Yes, you can get away with one thin layer of poly - it should be fine. The second layer is just a precaution on my part, but it's not absolutely necessary (if people are new to varnishing / sealing blades, they can sometimes rub off too much when removing the excess).

Yes, many latex glues have trace amounts of ammonia - it is used as a preservative, and it prevents the latex from congealing while it is being milked from the rubber tree. Only a very small amount is used, and it does not harm the blade, or the playing rubbers (though the smell can be unpleasant. Some glues are ammonia free,but I've never tried using them.)

Yes, latex has water in it - it's a natural and biodegradable product sourced directly from rubber trees, then concentrated via a centrifuge to 60% solids content and 40% water. The remaining moisture evaporates from the glue however during drying, and besides which, oil-based poly is impervious to water once it's cured, so any remaining trace amounts of water remaining in the glue does no damage to the sealant or blade whatsoever.

The EXACT OPPOSITE is true however with VOC-based speed glues -- and here's why.

For the record, Volatile Organic Compounds frankly do not belong anywhere near your blade, and certainly not one as expensive as the one you are currently using.

VOCs need to be avoided not just for health reasons (and due to ITTF regulations), but also to protect your blade and make it last.

In my experience, poly is the most hard-wearing and durable wood sealant of all, but it does not stand up well at all to long-term exposure to VOCs, (be they in speed glue or booster) ...and neither does any other wood sealant I know of frankly.

The VOC solvents used in the speed glue era are (or were) frequently a mix of acetone, xylene and/or other equally carcinogenic and noxious hydrocarbons.

These chemicals are basically solvents for most types of plastic. They boost a rubber performance because they are slowly breaking down the foam and/or top-sheet, making them more pliable, and therefore faster. Being volatile they evaporate quickly, so the rubber doesn't dissolve completely (this also means however you are breathing a lot of that stuff in just by being in the same room with your blade)

These same toxic substances however also attack hydrocarbon polymer chains that may be present in your blade's plywood adhesives, and it's sealant.
I've had to repair several blades now which were damaged by the VOCs in common boosters eating away at the blade's sealant over time, then lifting fibers in the blades outer layers once they had also started to dissolve the PVA / PU / etc which was used to stick the blade together.

It is worth remembering that a lot of manufacturers changed their blades compositions, once VOCs were banned.
It meant that blade manufacturers no longer needed to use wood glues that were resistant to VOC solvents (eg: such as urea formaldehyde - a commonly used and very tough plywood glue that resists both water and most solvents, but also slowly leeches toxic formaldehyde gas into any environment it's used in. UE is bloody horrible stuff that stinks to high heaven, kills brain cells just by you sniffing it, and requires serious ventilation equipment, major PPE measures, (and in some territories a government license in order to use it).

In all honesty, I can't imagine a single blade manufacturer out there being sad to see the end of the speed glue era, and the banning of VOCs in general... These things are industrial-scale poisons that can cause permanent brain damage very quickly -- if you can smell the stuff, then it's already too late, and your brains cells have already started to die.

Blades just are NOT designed to withstand these kinds of solvents anymore, so for the sake of your blade (if not your health and frontal lobes) permanently ditch the speed glue and booster, and shift to factory-boosted rubbers instead.

Wow. Thank you so much. I will never use VOC glue in my life after reading this. My health is very important for me. I was reading it's not healthy (VOC glue) but was thinking when I open the window or do it outside it would be fine.. what a big mistake. You saved many of my braincells I guess! & my blade+rubbers to!

My last 4 questions I have: (hopefully it's ok to ask you that much after you already helped me out so nice)

1. I will use https://www.amazon.de/dp/B004GU2FM6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details to seal my blade. A pro from a table tennis shop recommended it to me. Would you say that's really something good to use?

2. If I use only one very thin layer, how many % less protection would the wood have? I just don't want use a second very (very haha) thin layer because the pro of the table tennis shop how recommended it to me (& many information on the net like YT, other sites and and) says that you have to use a sandpaper after even 1 to thick layer & I just don't want to use a sandpaper on a expensive blade like that (not even when a pro would do it, it just wouldn't feel right..).

3. Latex (with 0.3% ammonia) https://www.amazon.de/Flüssiglatex-Latexmilch-naturfarben-Naturgummi-Sockenstopp/dp/B00OCUG8WI/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_2_1/260-5732813-5723659?pd_rd_w=ZBT7j&content-id=amzn1.sym.0d001520-14f3-4c0a-87f2-5f7ae9f5cd8e&pf_rd_p=0d001520-14f3-4c0a-87f2-5f7ae9f5cd8e&pf_rd_r=7JF567R879Z17TS4AA1X&pd_rd_wg=QxLeu&pd_rd_r=ec960aa3-d6e8-4e9d-bf96-a2c9e4857946&pd_rd_i=B00OCUG8WI&psc=1 is this something I could use? or wouldn't be good after all? (because it isn't official table tennis glue?) if yes, could you recommend me some what you are using?

4. I was reading that latex glue dry very fast & build some.. clump(?) or something like that, I don't remember the right word the people were using. Do you using it yourself (latex glue)? Can you tell me how I should use it? Do you have YT videos, other posts (with instructions) or something like that? How many layers should I use? How long should I let it dry? Should I pull it on a little or zero? and and.. do you have other tipps or warnings because of the latex glue or in general?

Thanks for helping me out like that! you are my hero! I was reading hours.. so many hours & was just more & more confused, but you really saved me from that overthinking & wrong decisions!

 

[Wakkibatty]

Wow. Thank you so much. I will never use VOC glue in my life after reading this. My health is very important for me. I was reading it's not healthy (VOC glue) but was thinking when I open the window or do it outside it would be fine.. what a big mistake. You saved many of my braincells I guess! & my blade+rubbers to!

My last 4 questions I have: (hopefully it's ok to ask you that much after you already helped me out so nice)

1. I will use https://www.amazon.de/dp/B004GU2FM6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details to seal my blade. A pro from a table tennis shop recommended it to me. Would you say that's really something good to use?

2. If I use only one very thin layer, how many % less protection would the wood have? I just don't want use a second very (very haha) thin layer because the pro of the table tennis shop how recommended it to me (& many information on the net like YT, other sites and and) says that you have to use a sandpaper after even 1 to thick layer & I just don't want to use a sandpaper on a expensive blade like that (not even when a pro would do it, it just wouldn't feel right..).

3. Latex (with 0.3% ammonia) https://www.amazon.de/Flüssiglatex-Latexmilch-naturfarben-Naturgummi-Sockenstopp/dp/B00OCUG8WI/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_2_1/260-5732813-5723659?pd_rd_w=ZBT7j&content-id=amzn1.sym.0d001520-14f3-4c0a-87f2-5f7ae9f5cd8e&pf_rd_p=0d001520-14f3-4c0a-87f2-5f7ae9f5cd8e&pf_rd_r=7JF567R879Z17TS4AA1X&pd_rd_wg=QxLeu&pd_rd_r=ec960aa3-d6e8-4e9d-bf96-a2c9e4857946&pd_rd_i=B00OCUG8WI&psc=1 is this something I could use? or wouldn't be good after all? (because it isn't official table tennis glue?) if yes, could you recommend me some what you are using?

4. I was reading that latex glue dry very fast & build some.. clump(?) or something like that, I don't remember the right word the people were using. Do you using it yourself (latex glue)? Can you tell me how I should use it? Do you have YT videos, other posts (with instructions) or something like that? How many layers should I use? How long should I let it dry? Should I pull it on a little or zero? and and.. do you have other tipps or warnings because of the latex glue or in general?

Thanks for helping me out like that! you are my hero! I was reading hours.. so many hours & was just more & more confused, but you really saved me from that overthinking & wrong decisions!

My pleasure 😊 glad I could help.

Very quickly:

- if you wipe off all the excess sealant each time, you don't need to sand at all. The wood should just look damp once you're done - if it's oil based poly, that thin film should still be okay.

- Latex TT glue and raw latex are not the same thing. Latex glue has other additives in it to thicken, stabilize and homogenize the product... This helps prevent the lumps you mention.

- We have our own proprietary latex glue recipe, and have it shipped over in bulk... We then on-sell the excess to our local customers.

- Purely to save me retyping a lot of gluing info I've already written elsewhere, I recommend you look at the FAQ section of our website for more info: https://www.wakkibat.com/faq-page

Good luck. 👍

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Yeah, ONE LAYER of Sealant should be fine. A long time ago I used to use two. Then I started using one. One very thin layer of sealant; that is really all you need.

I agree that you should use better rubbers.

 

[Wakkibatty]

Yeah, ONE LAYER of Sealant should be fine. A long time ago I used to use two. Then I started using one. One very thin layer of sealant; that is really all you need.

I agree that you should use better rubbers.

Agreed - one is usually plenty.. I only say two layers as I've seen some first time users literally rub off all the poly they just put on the blade. Depending on the brand of poly, a thin, damp-looking sheen is usually perfect.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Agreed - one is usually plenty.. I only say two layers as I've seen some first time users literally rub off all the poly they just put on the blade. Depending on the brand of poly, a thin, damp-looking sheen is usually perfect.

All you want is the amount that sinks into the wood and not the stuff on the surface. So, not sure that would matter.

I use MinWax Wipe-On-Poly. It has been thinned so it can be applied with a cloth. That is ideal. It having been thinned to 1/3 the thickness of a normal Poly allows it to sink into the grain so you can put a microscopically thin layer.

Some people just use hair spray. That works also. You really need much much less than most people realize.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Also, any TT glue is fine.

Old, simple, classic Rubber Cement (any brand) with VOCs is safer for the wood because it does not have WATER, and water based glues clearly have water. Also old glues (also referred to as speed glues) are easier to remove than water based glues so, taking the rubber off will be less likely to damage the wood.

If you have left a rubber on for 8 years or more, this is not the case. But if you are using your equipment and changing rubbers every so often, it is easier to remove the rubber without damaging the blade surface if the glue on the blade face is traditional VOC glue. But you don't want to use that on any of the European or Japanese sponges. If you use it on Chinese sponges, it is usually fine.

 

[TensorBackhand]

Oh nice, which one would you recommend?
I used XIOM Vega Pro before. It was good, but tackiness wasn't at all (2.2)
On the site: https://revspin.net/top-rubber/tackiness-desc.html
Tackiness of the Mercury 2 is on place 97 (6.1)
Xiom: Speed 9.1. Spin 9.2. Control 8.7
Mercury: Speed 8.5. Spin 8.8. Control 8.7

On YT to was it recommended as a pretty good or at least not so bad rubber.

I don't know how accurate this information are.. but if it's only to 70, 80% true, i was thinking i should try them.

It would be just a lose of 10, 15€. No big deal. If I would feel it's way to slow, not enough spin and and I will buy some for 50€ or more, no problem, you are right, it would be a waste to use such a good blade with very bad rubber (6-7/10). 8 or 9/10 would be the least. & because I would use them for a half - 1 1/2 year, I would pay only 70-200€ in a year. That's not really much if you love something & do it every day for hours even 100 for 1 rubber would be fine (150-400 in a year).

I will feel it anyway. It have to be a tacky rubber. Maybe Mercury2 is not even enough tacky, so I would buy one what's even more tacky. If I miss the speed & spin, it have to be more spin & speed too, but I have to test them first, to know, if it's not enough tacky, speed & spin and and.

What kind of rubber do you want exactly?

If you want a hard, tacky rubber, similar to Hurricane 3, I would highly recommend Loki Rxton 5 for $11 on Aliexpress. I would say it is around 97% the same performance of real H3.

If you want a faster, bouncier, tacky rubber similar to the $94 Dignics 09c, I would highly recommend Yinhe Jupiter 3 for $15 on Aliexpress. I would say it is around 97% the performance of D09c, and performs better in some ways. Some other good choices are Loki Arthur China, Bloom Power, and Big Dipper.

The difference between Mercury and these 2 rubbers is large, but the difference between these 2 rubbers and the top-selling rubbers is low.

 

[Wakkibatty]

Also, any TT glue is fine.

Old, simple, classic Rubber Cement (any brand) with VOCs is safer for the wood because it does not have WATER, and water based glues clearly have water. Also old glues (also referred to as speed glues) are easier to remove than water based glues so, taking the rubber off will be less likely to damage the wood.

If you have left a rubber on for 8 years or more, this is not the case. But if you are using your equipment and changing rubbers every so often, it is easier to remove the rubber without damaging the blade surface if the glue on the blade face is traditional VOC glue. But you don't want to use that on any of the European or Japanese sponges. If you use it on Chinese sponges, it is usually fine.

Ummm ...No offence but I really wouldn't recommend putting rubber cement anywhere near poly sealed timber.

Many rubber cements contain toluene as an active solvent for the various synthetic rubber polymers in the cement.

Toluene is also one of the number one ingredients in paint stripper.

There's no way known sorry that most poly sealants aren't going to be compromised by that stuff sooner or later -- especially given we like to use thin layers on our blades, and not the commonly recommended three-coat minimum many manufacturers print on the side of the can.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Ummm ...No offence but I really wouldn't recommend putting rubber cement anywhere near poly sealed timber.

Many rubber cements contain toluene as an active solvent for the various synthetic rubber polymers in the cement.

Toluene is also one of the number one ingredients in paint stripper.

There's no way known sorry that most poly sealants aren't going to be compromised by that stuff sooner or later -- especially given we like to use thin layers on our blades, and not the commonly recommended three-coat minimum many manufacturers print on the side of the can.

Regular rubber cement and speed glue are not all that different. If you are saying to use speed glue but not to use rubber cement I am not sure what to make of that since the main difference is that speed glue has loads more solvent.

If you were using a ton of solvent on the Poly sealant and then rubbing, it would be a problem for the sealant. But the solvent from the glue evaporates so fast that it won't really do anything to the sealant if you are leaving the glue on and attaching the sponge to the blade.

And I have used speed glue and regular old rubbers cement, multiple different versions of traditional glues on blades sealed with poly sealant and had no problems; back in the speed glue days I did this an uncountable number of times.

But if you are using rubber cement, you also don't need to seal the blade because there is no water in a traditional rubber cement that has VOCs in it.

It is only water based glues (modern TT glue) that has water in it.