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I think most of what needs to be said has already been written below by other people, and I agree with it. I should add, though, that it is pretty easy to make a switch to this rubber from T05. Let's say 4-5 sessions of adjustment, and then you can pretty much do what you used to do with T05 and it will work with MX-P. It won't feel the same. T05 has a more muted feel. For me the difference in feel doesn't seem to matter much. MX-P is overall a touch harder and faster than T05. I like the hardness in the short game. But in general, it is a great substitute. It works pretty much equally effectively for the same kind of player.

One thing I don't like is that some of the really nice qualities of MX-P are reduced quite a bit after the factory booster evaporates away, which maybe takes a month or so. I suspect the best thing to do at that point is re-boost it (as someone else suggests), but I haven't tried doing that. If you take if off the blade and then re-glue it, which I have done, you will find it has shrunk. I have a couple of used sheets in a drawer that I think I will try boosting just to see what happens. If that works out, then for sure the durability will be equal or greater than Tenergy at around half the price (if you buy from TT11).

I recently changed form Ebenholz to Apolonia due to the polyball. I felt that I needed a faster blade yet has woody characteristics. I picked my 2 year old Mizutani Super ZLC and posted it online for sale, the blade is a first gen but pretty expensive. I changed it from for sale to for trade and someone offered me a brand new Tiago Apolonia ZLC blade. I agreed and waited for three days because the blade will be coming from Japan. When the blade arrived I glued a Hurricane 3 Provincial and Evolution MX-P aaaaand if you read my MX-P review I replaced the Hurricane with MX-P due to injury and fatigue issues.

Comparison:
For the record this would be my second "Innerforce" blade as the Akrasia I previously used was IF style. I also tried my friend's Samsonov Stratus Carbon which like the Akrasia is Arylate Carbon. I noticed that the Apolonia is bouncier, has more vibration(better feel which I like), and has a larger sweetspot than the two. If compared to traditional carbon blade wood-carbon-wood-core-wood-carbon-core setup my traded Mizutani for example, the Apolonia has better dwell and makes spin production easier.

Spin/Drive:
The control of this blade is ridiculous cause I can topspin consistently and felt like I was still using my Ebenholz but faster and a little harder(in power shots). When I loop the ball it feels like it is stucked in the blade for a moment then shoots it. Backhand looping never felt easier and I felt my consistency went up. I can produce stable, spinny, and fast shots in my forehand and backhand.

Blocks/Punches:
This is where I excel at especially in my backhand, as a left-handed player my backhand is abused with attacks lol. Blocking with Apolonia feels very stable whether passive or active blocking. I also found the blade in conjunction with MX-P really easy to punch the ball. During matchplay with the Apolonia blade when my opponent powerloops I rarely block the ball because punching is the better choice. When the opponent heavy loops the touch and great feel of the blade makes is easier to absorb the incoming spin and redirect it to the other side of the table.

Short game:
My short game includes pushing and flicking. Pushing with the Apolonia feels familiar because I feel I am still using an allwood blade. I can push the ball really short and sometimes with no spin which confuses my opponent a lot. I also do the banana flick as my main weapon to receive service, due to the dwell mixed with the bounciness of the blade the success rate of my banana flick rose(lol cause in an allwood blade you need a really precise timing).

Speed:
I really like the combination of MX-P with Apolonia because the abnormal power of MX-P is manageable and it doesn't feel that fast. It doesn't feel that fast due to the feel yet the ball shows otherwise. Looping and powerlooping with Apolonia is the best because the ball is somehow held by the blade for a moment then shoots out like a cannon. P.S. This is subjective with the rubber used lol

Conclusion:
The blade is best suited for my style of play, close to mid distance attacker that is ready to block the ball when returned. If you are looking for a faster blade that has woody characteristics (e.g. feel, dwell, and control) this blade is a great choice. IMHO the hande is too small that is why I used a grip tape to compensate. Finally, the blade is beautiful +1 pogi(handsome) points as we filipinos say

I was a Tenergy user on both sides for a long time then switched to Hurricane on forehand cause it's cheaper and reduced the total cost of the rubbers. But I got more prone to injuries and the Hurricane really needs a lot of effort. I was skeptical at trying the MX-P based upon the reviews of many people comparing it to Tenergy. I really needed a new backhand rubber and tried many, I tried Skyline 3-60 the sponge lacks power then tried Rakza 7 Soft but the ball behavior is really abnormal and it was kinda mushy. When the EL-S came out I tried it I was happy at first but as time went by, I felt the heaviness and effort needed to produce amazing balls(I was using Ebenholz at that time). I switched to MX-P and I was happy, flicks are fast and spinny the blocking was stable heck no need for block cause you can punch the incoming spin.

I changed my blade for the polyball and now use Tiago Apolonia ZLC. I glued new sheets of Hurricane Provincial and MX-P in the backhand side to battle the polyball. The same problem occured, injuries due to the heavy chinese rubber my senses told me to switch to MX-P on both sides. Last week I bought a new sheet of MX-P to replace the Hurricane on my forehand and this is what I found.


Spin:

FH:
When I switched to MX-P I had a few adjustments in the forehand and in order to use the rubber properly the stroke is a mix of hit and brush. I can produce tremendous spin with the MX-P plus the added catapult plus the satisfying cracking sound. The rubber was very linear so I can direct the ball anywhere I want it to go. Lifting backspin is really easy with MX-P, you can have the choice of brushing it or kill it with a forward stroke. My training partner told me that the ball was faster and heavier with MX-P due to the catapult effect.

BH:
My backhand technique is kinda flicky and a lot of blocking but can brush too when needed. When spinning with my backhand I can hear the satisfying cracking sound that indicates that the timing is right(for me). The ball flies in a straight line showing the rubber's direct nature. The spin produced is comparable with Tenergy 05.

Blocks,Flicks:
Blocking is really easy with MX-P cause the catapult helps a lot whether it is in the forehand or backhand side. The rubber is spin sensitive(05 is more), sometimes when an opponent attacks my backhand side I punch the ball, power against power. I find it easy to punch the ball with the MX-P on the backhand and to counter the ball on the forehand side. When countering in the forehand side little effort is needed and it is easier than 05 where you need to close the angle so the ball won't fly.

Flicking is one of my favorite shots specially the forehand flick and with MX-P the ball is fast and furious. The backhand flick is a breeze with MX-P cause the grip grabs the ball and the catapult to finishes it off.


Conclusion:
The MX-P shines in attacking close to the table for finishers and in mid distance cause the ball is really fast and quite annoying with a little sidespin. My training partner noted that the MX-P is a bit "shocking" due to the loud sound and speed of the ball. Compared to Hurricane and Tenergy 05 the spin is comparable however the speed is not cause the MX-P is faster than the two. I am quite satisfied with the performance of the MX-P and I felt my game went up since I changed. The rubber feels better than 05 in my opinion as it is faster, throw is lower and more controllable than 05.

P.S.
The rubber shrinks when you remove it from the blade but can be stretched out, just use water based glue and stretch it. Remove the rubber when it is time to change or when the glue dries out(like what happened to mine).

Not a bad rubber as it is very reliable for loops and spinny serve answers. Its very cheap but its gettig dirty all the time

Hello everyone! I've just purchased a couple of Xiom Vegas: Asia DF and Europe DF, both have "max" thickness. After a couple of Butterfly Flextras (2.0mm) these feel really fast! It's like there are lots of little springs in there instead of sponge
Very grippy surface, very springy sponge - these rubbers are NOT for beginners. You MUST play with it making topspin after topspin after topspin, the rubber seems to be not suted for simple pushing (the ball goes way too strong and far at first). But all of these feelings may be just because of my beginner's manner of playing. I'm sure I'll get used to it. Europe DF should be fine. Asia DF is faster and harder to get used to.
Speed: 7.5 - maybe more, maybe less, Idk. Europe DF is certainly faster than my old Flextras.
Spin: 8 - the new rubber always gives more spin than when it gets older. I have little experience to judge but in comparison with Butterfly Flextra 2.0mm Europe DF gives more speed as well as Asia DF.
Control: 7 - maybe I consider "control" to be different thing but to my mind the ability to play some blocking defence with this rubber is poor. But to be fair I haven't got used to it yet so I may misjudge it.
Durability - Idk. Let's make it "7.5" for now.
When I get used to it I will write something more.

Hello everyone! I've just purchased a couple of Xiom Vegas: Asia DF and Europe DF, both have "max" thickness. After a couple of Butterfly Flextras (2.0mm) these feel really fast! Especially Asia DF - it's like there are lots of little springs in there instead of sponge
Very grippy surface, very springy sponge - these rubbers are NOT for beginners. You MUST play with it making topspin after topspin after topspin, the rubber is not suted for simple pushing (the ball goes way too strong and far). Also it seemed to me like it's not easy to play short. But all of these feelings may be just because of my beginner's manner of playing.
Speed: 8 - maybe more, maybe less, Idk, but it seems to give a lot of speed (Asia especially). Many people say it's like OFF-.
Spin: 7.5 - the new rubber always gives more spin than when it gets older. I have little experience to judge but in comparison with Butterfly Flextra 2.0mm Asia DF gives more speed as well as Europe DF.
Control: 6.5 - maybe I consider "control" to be different thing but to my mind the ability to play some blocking defence with this rubber is poor. But to be fair I haven't got used to it yet so I may misjudge it.
Durability - Idk. Let's make it "7.5" for now.
When I get used to it I will write something more.

The weight of my carbonado 145 is 98gr. from [h=3]schoeler-micke.tabletennis-shop.de[/h]

Hi All!

I have been waiting for ages to try this blade. I also would like to tell you, that I only used this blade with T64 and EL-P for 3 hours, so this is not my final opinion, I will update the post!

The box was redesigned and it look nice. The blade is a fine craftmanship, sanded down edges, even butterfly does not sand down the edges of the blade. The handle is a chinese style hangle, no matter which type you choose, it will be small. Even smaller than the ZJK or Shiwen blade, but it is comfortable for me. The surface of the blade is totally flat, the veeners of the blade have even thickness all across the whole body. The design of the blade is solid, but great. The shape of the head is waterdrop shaped, so the upper part is a bit narrower, than the regular Butterfly shape, lenght is the same 158-159 mm. The blade is head heavy, which I personally prefer. The composite layers in the blade are next to the kiri core, dark grey in colour. Texalium is a glass fiber, which is covered with a very thin layer of aluminium, and the grey colour is because of additional graphite colouring. This material is weaker than the regular carbon and resonates more. Middle layer of the blade is ayous/samba/abachi, which is nice. Top veener is kiso-hinoki (200 years old), which is perfectly sanded, no visible pores or uneven surfaces, where you glue would stick in.

So the blade was designed to loop, but also have a bit more power. It is marked OFF-/OFF by the manufacturer, which I think is reasonable. This blade resonates, which gives the optimal feedback from the contact of the ball. The blade is predictable in every situation. Sweet spot is suprisingly large, I would say that the 1,5 cm margain of the head is not usable. When looping the arc of the ball is med/low, but this I will try with other rubbers. Also the feeling of the loop is very pleasant, no resonations. On direct flat hits the blade resonates on low tempo, but this resonance fades when hitting harder. Some say there is no spin in this blade, which I would not support. With the rubbers mentioned above I was able to produce very spinny balls, more spinnier, than a Liu Shiwen blade. This was also tested and confirmed by my girlfriend, who also tested it, and currently uses a Liu Shiwen blade with the same setup. The arc of the loop is less pronounced, but the spin is there with both rubbers, very aggressive and very flat loops. I did like dropshots due to the heavier head and the rubbers.

Today I go to thest this setup a bit more and then I will glue MXP and M2 on it (my fav. setup) to see what this blade does with higher throw rubbers.

At this point I would recommend this blade to allwood blade lovers who want speed and control around 80-85 grams. This is a controlled to aggressive looper blade which has the power for smashing. To be honest it definetly feels like Jun Mizutani ZLC, with a bit more power and better feeling in flat contacts.

Really good wood blade. Pairs well with tenergy 05. Good dwell, spin, control and speed

My Thought process:
Planning on buying Graydia ZLC
but it is too fast for me
i thought i can slow it down with a def rubber

I thought i could compensate it with an Off Blade
but i was wrong i was dead wrong.
Blade used: Ross Leidy Custom Off Blade

Here is a quick summary(All my honest opinions about the rubber):


Loop: Slow spiny loops are achievable. it is quite low throw rubber. Spiny low topspins

Drive: Forget about long distance. Forget about Short Distance as well. it is too slow. Drives were easily countered.
rally to rally it is like your giving out (example only) 50 kph while your opponent returns 100 kph since im only handing out 50 kph, it can easily be countered

Flicks: It is easy to flick(Banana flick as well) but its slow

Blocks: Give it a bit of punch so that it goes back to your opponents side.

Chops: It is where this rubber truly shines( Well it is a Def Rubber Lol). Opponents are having a hard time lifting the backspin. Chop Blocks are easy and heavy as well. Most Fast Balls can be chopped Back, Short or Long.

well thats all folks.

Not having too much reference, these are all observations not based on any valid comparison. This is my backhand rubber. I use the blue sponge variant on my forehand, which aside from a little more speed, is mostly the same in performance. There are more differences but I just can't feel them.

The best things about this rubber are that although the tackiness will wear out without extensive care, the topsheet and sponge will stay very much so playable for at least three months or more. It's easy to use in the short game and the better your technique and higher the spin, the easier it seems to control. I'm not too sure how it stacks up to other rubber in terms of serve spin, but serves are easy to control overall.

Blocking is easy, as long as you angle the racket down appropriately and block actively, because I feel it's a bit spin sensitive for a beginner's rubber. However that has been good for technique development. The rubber responds well to more racket head speed and gives good feedback on how well you're hitting.

Control overall is good and it easily allows for stronger shots even with a beginner's skill level. It's also very cheap.

My only gripe with the rubber's performance is that especially on the backhand, you need to be very active to produce faster shots and it's easy to spin shots into the net if you play too slow. However I feel that every time I've netted the ball due to slow speed has been a technique issue, not a rubber issue. From a beginner's standpoint this is good but I think for competition you would want something more forgiving.

Overall I've been satisfied with my purchase.

If you are looking for a harder rubber spend a bit more money and buy tenergy. It's ok but I wouldn't recommend it.

Normally I don't like Stiga rubbers and found the airoc to be disappointing however it finally looks like stiga have come up with a very good offensive rubber. It's not as fast as tenergy 05/64 and just a tad less spinny but I find it to have more control. I really like blocking with this rubber as it soaks incoming spin up well. I'd definitely recommend it for players that find tenergy slightly too fast and want a bit more control without compromising on spin any great deal. Overall a great product from stiga I just hope they continue producing rubbers like this instead of the pretty poor airoc and Calibra tour series.

I really won't recommend these balls because they are everything you don't want (except if you're really strange)
they take no spin, they bounce randomly, they are really slow.
conclusion:
go find something else, save your money

Hello ALL!

I was interested in this rubber since I saw some video test of it on Youtube and also played with TinArc3, 2-3 years ago. Now thanks to a discount I could get a sheet for €13. Te other reason was, that nowdays Evolution P and S series came out with a more robust topsheet, and I liked MX-P, MX-S. To be honest Tinarc3 was a mix of those two with a bit less power. I predicted Tinarc to be a bit stiffer and more of a chinese feel, but sort of euroean hibrid rubber, but still mailny a chinese sheet.



Packaging is simple, the graphics are fine, the text is well done by google translate. The sheet is covered with a protective film. The paper box is in a resealable plastic, which is nice. There is slight curve to the sheet, unfortunately the rubber is on the upper side of the dome. Smell is definetly chinese burned rubber odour. Package clearly instructs not to smell... did it anyway. Sponge is hard a bit more elastic than standard brick hard chinese sponges, there are pores inside, faint yellow colour. Topsheet is protected with an adhesive foil, design is the usual. Surface is shiny tacky. Can lift the ball, but can not hold it. So I can throw the ball up to 0,5 meter from the table. Bluefire M throws the ball 0,2 meter when out of the package. My sheet was black, max thickness, weighing 63 g uncut.





Because my friend ordered one in red, which he intended to use as is, I boosted my black sheet just a little. So I added enough oil to streighten it out, nothing more, but for shure I can tell you the rubber could intake a lot more, because the oil was soaked immediately. My racket for this rubber was my spare, a Yinhe/Galaxy Venus 14 (TBS clone).

Counterhits
First few hits went into the net. No problem. Overall throw was lowish on slow motion shots. When applying more force the rubber comes to life, making all the balls fly low over the net, but the feeling of contact is reassuring. Stepping away from the table to do some longer strokes the balls find the other side of the table. Control is noticable immediatelly, but speed also. The topsheet feels a bit rigid chinese style, but not that an intermediate can't handle immediately. So from far away there was no bottoming out, with M2 and EL-P, you may feel the knock on the wood, but not with this rubber. So after a short excercises and flat hits you recognise, that there is absolutely no catapult effect on the rubber, but there is power in the sponge, you just have to ask for it. Contact time is generally good.

Smashing
Due to the tacky surface, there is no need to loopdrive balls, simply smash them, the rubber will grab the ball. Speed is sufficient, aiming is fully predictable.

Looping
So this is where I came in because I consider myself a looper. Loop mechanics have to be adjusted. In case of normal looping the ball has to be a bit lower, to get the desired effect. This was not really a problem, the arc of the ball is medium, medium-low. The rubber is very consistent but in this case a bit more lifting is needed to engane the sponge. On opening loops, the traditional chinese brush loop is finely executable with decent spin on the ball. European style loops are harder to execute, because you have to engage the sponge and in some cases you may not have sufficient space and time to do that move. Counterlooping heavy spin or no spin balls are a breeze. Topshhet grabs the ball, the sponge kicks it out, I hav to experiment with the angles and the line of the stroke. As far as I see, a bit more linear, then curved blade trajectory will give the most spin and speed when countering, which is nice, because it requires a less polished technique to execute. On the other hand, you can just simply smash that ball. With a non catapult rubber you have to engage the sponge if you want a decent spin with speed or else you must brush fast. As an european style player who is always there to loop the ball when it comes, I did not find this rubber hard to handle, it even teaches and demands the right force to be applied in a shot.

Dropshots
Low trajectory. Even heavy spin balls can be tossed back, but if you are experienced you can kill every shot with it. Because of the lack of the catapult every ball can be placed short, heavy shots can be blocked back down the line. It really give the control back in your hand.

Over the table
When serving, I mostly used the topsheet and was not disappointed by the spin I generated. Somewhere near MX-P, but the sponge won't kick the ball long. On serve recieve it was relaxing to push the ball very short and low. Flipping was not demanding, but required a bit more forward momentum. Slow motion heavy spin over the table openings can be done with this rubber.

Chopping
Hey man this rubber works fine . Like a defender, just have to take the swing early, and a monster underspin will be the result. Have done some fun chops, but I am no defender.

Overall
This rubber is a mirror. It will show you how much you worth, it will only give you power if you ask it with correct technique. It is a nice blend of Euro and Chinese style more to the latter. I tried it with and without boosting and I must say it behaves linear. Boosting gives more softness and more elastic power and base tempo to the soft, maybe later I will try to soften the topsheet with some oil too and give a nice boost to the sponge. Many advanced players use it boosted, because it can be fast when you want and it can be slow too. When dry it is not a fast rubber, on normal stroke it is similar to an M3 or S3 on my scale is around 7,5-8, but when you hit with power the rubber will not bottom out and transfers it to the ball. So yes I could hit off the table and loop long balls with this with 70% and with full power also.

The playing style of this rubber is an aggressive allround, where you can manipulate the ball as you wish, but you intend to smash it or loop it when you can. I personaly don't feel that an opening loop is a killer with this, maybe a high spin loop, that comes back for a finishing hit. When boosted it is an offensive rubber. For normal price I would not buy this rubber, Acuda and Baracuda is at the same price range in my country.



If boosted use any ALL+ blade, preferrably nearly stiff or speed elastic. If unboosted use at least an OFF- stiff or speed elastic blade.

I played for a year with my MX-P, 2.0.
I used on FH around 3 month, but then on BH.
What's the best about this rubber, is it's speed and spin potential. I will compare it to Tenergy series. Speedwise it's around the T64, but it behaves differently. On strong loops throw angle is higher than T64, but lower than T05. On slow loops Tenergys perform better, I think due to the softer topsheet. On stronger shots it's sponge kicks the ball like spring sponge, but it is more linear than T series. Easier to make punch-shots. In general, performance of MX-P is very similar to Tenergy. It's a very good substitution, as it's much cheaper. BUT, it requires good skills. It feels very hard and due it's speed - hard to control. Tenergy is much more easy to use. MX-P lacks the feel, that's it.
Playing elements compared to T64 and T05:
Slow opening loop: T05>T64>MX-P
Strong opening loop (FH): MX-P>T05>T64 MX-P is faster than T05 and somehow I didn't liked the T64 in this case.
Strong opening loop (BH): T64>MX-P I didn't used T05 on BH side enough to speak about.
Short push and drop-shot: MX-P>T05=T64 Tackiness really helps there.
Long push: T64>=T05=MX-P With T64 easier to vary the spin, but maybe that's just my memory.
BH flick (fast, long): T64>MX-P T64 really shines here.
BH flick (short, slower): MX-P=T64
FH flip-kill: MX-P>T64=T05 Hardness, speed and slight tackiness makes MX-P perfect for this shot.
BH flip-kill: T64>MX-P
Counterloop (FH/BH) close to mid range: T05=T64>MX-P With MX-P easier to miss the table than T05. T64 generates lower arc than both, but still easy to land it on the table.
Counterloop (FH) long range: MX-P>=T64>=T05: Faster rubbers are better at long range.
Counterloop (BH) mid to long range: T64>>MX-P Think to the BH loops of ZJK and Zhou Yu! T64 is the best in this, even commercial version.
Passive block (BH): T64>MX-P
Active block: T64=MX-P
Smash: MX-P<=T64=T05 There isn't too much difference.

I first had this rubber and I couldn't control it easily and it took some time this rubber is really good as a backhand rubber but aside from that thats the only thing good with it

Tibhar Evolution MX-P
Weight: 73 grams uncut, 49 grams uncut
Sponge Hardness: 45.7°
Hardness: Medium
Speed: High
Spin: Medium
Blade used: Tibhar Stratus Carbon blade


Written Review

After many requests from users on the TableTennisDaily website, we have teamed up with TableTennis11.com to review Tibhar’s most popular rubber series.

Initial inspection

The Evolution rubber is ESN based and has a firm glossy topsheet. What's interesting about the Evolution series is that the rubbers all have a strong smell which is evident right out the packaging. Other rubbers do not seem to possess this same strong glue smell.

The rubbers vary in sponge hardness with the FX-P being the softest in the range coming in at 41.1 degrees. The El-P has a sponge hardness of 42.4 degrees. The Evolution MX-P has a sponge hardness of 45.7 degrees. and finally the MX-S which is the hardest rubber in the series with a sponge hardness of 46.3 degrees.

The rubbers have slight variations in weight. Uncut The FX-P weighs 68 grams and cut 47 grams, the EL-P uncut weighs 72 grams and cut weighs 50 grams, the MX-P uncut weighs 73 grams and cut 49 grams and the MX-S uncut weighs 75 grams and cut weighs 51 grams.

I used the Tibhar Samsonov Stratus Carbon blade throughout the review whilst Tom used this and his regular bat, switching between the two setups to get a better understanding of how the evolution rubber series performs.

Topspins

We started out with the MX-P which is widely regarded as the most popular rubber in the series and has been highly praised by the table tennis tennis community, and you can tell why almost immediately. The rubber feels alive and you get a loud clicking sound on contact. Another quality that becomes apparent as soon as you start using the MX-P is the sheer amount of speed it produces. The strong catapult effect propels the plastic ball with minimal effort.

Although the speed is impressive with the MX-P we did sometimes find that the ball would fly out long due to just how fast it was, so you need good control and feeling to use this rubber to full effect. This rubber is also very responsive to incoming speed and spin and we both made a fair amount of mistakes initially before we got used to it.

Spin

When opening up against backspin using my backhand, for example, I felt I had a lot of grip and a fair amount of dwell for such a fast offensive rubber. Again sometimes due to the high speed of the MXP, my 3rd and 5th ball attacks went just off the end of the table so I had to close my bat angle to adjust and maintain consistency.

We both really liked the MX-P on the forehand side when trying to lift backspin and were both able to produce great amounts spin when playing aggressively. As this is a rubber for advanced players those with sufficient technique will be able to use this speed and spin to full effect.

Flicks

In the serve and receive game the MX-P worked exceptionally when playing a backhand flick. The evolution rubber gripped the ball well and, combined with its speed excelled in this area. I found that I could follow up with an effective backhand punch shot which, in general, is very effective with the entire evolution range.

Counters

Due to the crisp, clean feel and contact, countering with this rubber was fantastic. With little effort we were both able to produce consistent and effective counter topspins.

We also found that from mid distance and away from the table the MXP’s speed allowed us to impart strong shots.

Conclusion

Tibhar’s flagship evolution rubbers are superb, and have a range of different characteristics to suit different players needs. We found all the rubbers have a good spring, responsive feel, but all differ in terms of sponge hardness, speed and spin.

I personally preferred the MXP on my forehand and the MXS on my backhand. I felt I was able to control and handle the speed. This speed allowed me to pressure Tom in match play. For strong attacking players the MXP would be of a good choice as the hard sponge propels the ball forward with its extreme catapult effect with great spin. Players who take a bit more time in their shots and want control and dwell over speed would prefer the FXP or the ELP.

Alternatively players who struggle for speed and want that extra bit of kick in their forehand the MXP would be of a good choice of rubber. Players who want something a touch slower than the MXP but with more grip, slightly more spin and a harder sponge, the MXS would suit. The MXS is also slightly faster than the two softer evolution rubbers

The spin produced is not quite as much as a Tenergy 05 or a Chinese Hurricane rubber but easily effective enough to lift heavy backspin balls to put your opponent under pressure. Serving with all 4 variants of the evolution series did not give us any problems as the surface of the rubber grabbed the ball well producing good spin and gave us good precision and placement .

Tibhar Evolution MX-S
Weight: 75 grams uncut, 51 grams uncut
Sponge Hardness: 45.7°
Hardness: Medium/Hard
Speed: Medium/High
Spin: Medium/High
Blade used: Tibhar Stratus Carbon blade


The MXS is the hardest rubber of the 4 in the Evolution Series. You can see initially the ball flew of the table as we found it a little difficult after using the ELP and FXP which have much softer sponges.

I was a little skeptical about using the MXS rubber on the backhand side beforehand thinking the sponge would be to hard, however I was pleasantly surprised. The direct nature of the rubber gave me the accuracy I needed to play strong attacking strokes mixing up the direction of play with ease.

When playing against backspin the MXS gripped the ball very well and produced slightly more spin than the other rubbers in the series. The topsheet of the MXS seems to be tackier than all other evolution rubbers which helps create more spin. To produce significant spin with this rubber however requires a fast arm and body speed with efficient technique.

For more in depth information about the Evolution MS-S click here.