racket acceleration

I really don't like it when a bat is head heavy. I was thinking about cutting the sides to a hexagon, such a blade plays e.g. Moregardh. Then you can go down a lot in weight. Apparently the blade becomes more rigid and less flexible. My blade is cheap so I can experiment with it because I ordered a second Yinhe 03b. In my opinion it is the best in the whole series, the best balanced, but it is all-. I want to speed it up. You can additionally varnish it three times and it will also be stiffer and faster. Have you experimented?
 
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Smart racket to evaluate force, speed and angle. Developed by china SJMD.
 

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I really don't like it when a bat is head heavy. I was thinking about cutting the sides to a hexagon, such a blade plays e.g. Moregardh. Then you can go down a lot in weight. Apparently the blade becomes more rigid and less flexible. My blade is cheap so I can experiment with it because I ordered a second Yinhe 03b. In my opinion it is the best in the whole series, the best balanced, but it is all-. I want to speed it up. You can additionally varnish it three times and it will also be stiffer and faster. Have you experimented?
I rather spend my time training, than trying to macgyver myself an idea racket.
Since you are going with Yinhe, there are tons of affordable blades already, and that is cheaper than time.
By the way, vanish takes away the feel off the ball, so I strongly am against it.
 
Cybershape blades are known to be headheavy. In my Opinion its not worth it to reshape blades.
Get a blade thats known to be handleheavy.

Donic Persson Powerplay comes to my mind. The one with full handle not the V-versions. This blade has little bit smaller head and a little longer handle.
I have it on my shopping list and it's very cheap.
 
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Can you simply add, for example, 3 layers of sealing primer?
bare wood is the best for control
this is why no pros will add anything on.

But i understand amateur market, you want to protect the blade, so you will add varnish on.

But to add varnish to chance blade weight, to me - rather spend your time buying a more suitable blade.

Blades are designed to be balanced, and cutting parts out, or adding things on, may work, or maybe won't work.
spending that effort and time on training is probably wiser.

PS. I am a coach and also equipment expert
 
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I really don't like it when a bat is head heavy. I was thinking about cutting the sides to a hexagon, such a blade plays e.g. Moregardh. Then you can go down a lot in weight. Apparently the blade becomes more rigid and less flexible. My blade is cheap so I can experiment with it because I ordered a second Yinhe 03b. In my opinion it is the best in the whole series, the best balanced, but it is all-. I want to speed it up. You can additionally varnish it three times and it will also be stiffer and faster. Have you experimented?
Here is an excellent light blade.


Cheers
L-zr
 
bare wood is the best for control
this is why no pros will add anything on.

But i understand amateur market, you want to protect the blade, so you will add varnish on.

But to add varnish to chance blade weight, to me - rather spend your time buying a more suitable blade.

Blades are designed to be balanced, and cutting parts out, or adding things on, may work, or maybe won't work.
spending that effort and time on training is probably wiser.

PS. I am a coach and also equipment expert
I understand. I would prefer not to seal so as not to change the parameters. In that case, how to glue the rubber? One user recommended Elmer's. Is that a good choice? Or water-based glue?
 
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I really don't like it when a bat is head heavy. I was thinking about cutting the sides to a hexagon, such a blade plays e.g. Moregardh. Then you can go down a lot in weight. Apparently the blade becomes more rigid and less flexible. My blade is cheap so I can experiment with it because I ordered a second Yinhe 03b. In my opinion it is the best in the whole series, the best balanced, but it is all-. I want to speed it up. You can additionally varnish it three times and it will also be stiffer and faster. Have you experimented?
@Przemooo You are getting into the discussion area of weight distribution vs weight.

Anyone reading my writings on this over the last decade plus KNOWS I value mostly what many consider a "heavy" overall weight - I like blades to be in the 85-115 gram range... but would also know I value weight distribution and the handle ergonomics (thicker, longer handle and shaped a certain way).

I am pretty famous for my series of posts on the "Der_Echte Beast Mod" which is a name I gave to my modification of modern blades to fill in the empty space in the handle pieces and/or throat of the blade with hide glue and various fillers (pieces of metal or wood) to make the weight of the blade go lower, make the blade more solid and easier to whip in my hand.

There are many factors in the dynamics of what makes a bat accelerate and accelerate EASY. I want EASY Acceleration. I want it to be almost effortless. I want the dynamic of the blade to help promote blade speed production and control of that.

Having said all that... if you have a blade you LIKE and want to go in this direction a good deal, but not want to perform open heart surgery on your blade... then get sum grip tape you like and grip tape that sucker with a shape you can like and control easy;

You will get 100% the effect of a Beast mod, but you will get almost halfway there instantly.

For MANY players, a good grip tape job is plenty enough improvement to satisfy them (enough).

Consider grip tape or a Beast Mod on the blade you like.
 
@Przemooo You are getting into the discussion area of weight distribution vs weight.

Anyone reading my writings on this over the last decade plus KNOWS I value mostly what many consider a "heavy" overall weight - I like blades to be in the 85-115 gram range... but would also know I value weight distribution and the handle ergonomics (thicker, longer handle and shaped a certain way).

I am pretty famous for my series of posts on the "Der_Echte Beast Mod" which is a name I gave to my modification of modern blades to fill in the empty space in the handle pieces and/or throat of the blade with hide glue and various fillers (pieces of metal or wood) to make the weight of the blade go lower, make the blade more solid and easier to whip in my hand.

There are many factors in the dynamics of what makes a bat accelerate and accelerate EASY. I want EASY Acceleration. I want it to be almost effortless. I want the dynamic of the blade to help promote blade speed production and control of that.

Having said all that... if you have a blade you LIKE and want to go in this direction a good deal, but not want to perform open heart surgery on your blade... then get sum grip tape you like and grip tape that sucker with a shape you can like and control easy;

You will get 100% the effect of a Beast mod, but you will get almost halfway there instantly.

For MANY players, a good grip tape job is plenty enough improvement to satisfy them (enough).

Consider grip tape or a Beast Mod on the blade you like.
"grip tape" do you mean a product like this?


I am very interested in the modifications you described. I am looking for a way to extend the handle myself, because I have a racket that has a handle that is too short. I want to buy balsa and glue it and add tape from Ali, which I provided in the link. A longer handle gives better maneuvers.

My racket is a cheap Yinhe 03b. I bought two more. I can experiment with them. I was thinking of cutting it to a hexagon to reduce the weight.

But I noticed that one racket weighs 173g and the other 185, but it is well balanced. It does not go headfirst. And I do not mind the weight of 185, the important thing is that it is well balanced! So maybe I can also have a heavier racket.

I would like to read your most important posts on these topics. I will try to search, but if you can provide them so that I do not miss something, I will be grateful. You can send it in private.
What other modifications are worth implementing?
 
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"grip tape" do you mean a product like this?


I am very interested in the modifications you described. I am looking for a way to extend the handle myself, because I have a racket that has a handle that is too short. I want to buy balsa and glue it and add tape from Ali, which I provided in the link. A longer handle gives better maneuvers.

My racket is a cheap Yinhe 03b. I bought two more. I can experiment with them. I was thinking of cutting it to a hexagon to reduce the weight.

But I noticed that one racket weighs 173g and the other 185, but it is well balanced. It does not go headfirst. And I do not mind the weight of 185, the important thing is that it is well balanced! So maybe I can also have a heavier racket.

I would like to read your most important posts on these topics. I will try to search, but if you can provide them so that I do not miss something, I will be grateful. You can send it in private.
What other modifications are worth implementing?
Just search for Beast Mod... I might have made 4 threads with pics on this and some members have made their own posts on this,

This pic you show is a slip on grip... that will work too, but I was talking about the kind you wrap over your handle. Every TT maker sells these.

Just grip tape alone shifts weight lower and balances out a head heavy setup... but the beast mod is 5-10x more effective as it makes the blade SOLID and heavy... which really helps to handle incoming high energy balls and makes it easy to whip the bat.

There are custom blade makers around that will make a custom blade for LESS than say BTY's majority of blades.

One time I even made a blade maker's challenge for this.... I had a $500 USD budget and asked for 5 blade makers to come forward and make a blade to certain controlled and uncontrolled specs. All had their own thread detailing their work and thinking. One of my specs was a thicker and longer handle.

I asked for a low center of weight, but 100g+ blade to do such and such and they all made one... and talked about it.
 
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Mt original Beast Mod was directly inspired by Carl... he had a beloved Stiga Allround Evolution in the 80s grams he really liked... I thought of a way to stealthily made it WAY more offensive, but with still good control and feel.

Here is the original thread... it generated a LOT of discussion.

I think the thread was from 2013 or 2014...

 
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i never got why ppl care so much about blades being "balanced". preferring lighter paddles over heavier ones is a head scratcher too.
if you would ask an 8th grader that played some attention in physics class about if a lighter or heavier blade should work best in table tennis, he would respond F = m x a.
 
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Mt original Beast Mod was directly inspired by Carl... he had a beloved Stiga Allround Evolution in the 80s grams he really liked... I thought of a way to stealthily made it WAY more offensive, but with still good control and feel.

Here is the original thread... it generated a LOT of discussion.

I think the thread was from 2013 or 2014...

I'll try your Best Mode on one racket out of curiosity. How much is the optimal increase in weight? 10g to start with? I think you've increased that much in the Stiga Evolution - Carla?
Is it better to add the weight in the middle or at the end of the handle?
I saw this post. But there's nothing about lengthening the handle. How do you approach this? I'd like to add about 0.5cm-1cm. I'm thinking of adding a piece of balsa. I'll glue the whole thing with glue or screws and put on this Slip-on from Ali.
Doesn't the slip-on and tape cause a worse feel/control?
 
Maybe it's better to drill holes in the handle and screw in, for example, 4 metal screws for wood instead of destroying the entire handle?

And just gluing a few coins to the bottom of the handle will also give similar results? Or is it best to put a weight in the middle?

You can also buy an empty handle and add a weight there? No Senso pots?
 
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