Different Hurricane results based on boosting procedure

[Yxoons]

One thing I found curious, is peoples results from different boosting procedures.

It's very visible that the top professional players are using highly boosted rubbers due to the visible pimples, and after boosting myself, I found that it's easily replicatable, but also comes with tradeoffs.

Both rubbers below H3N National BS and are boosted with exact same amount of Haifu National Yellow, 2 layers with 24 hours inbetween each on top of a bottle, and 24 hours after last layer before gluing.
It may be hard to see below, but the rubber on the left is a lot more tacky and sticky, while the one on the right is very matte and grippy.

Only difference in procedure is that the protective film was kept on on the left rubber, while it was removed before boosting on the right one. The result is 2 completely different rubbers, which may be an obvious result for many, but I'm surprised there isn't a boosting procedure and result post on here already, to help others achieve the boosting result they want.

Basically by removing the protective film before boosting you allow the topsheet to stretch a lot more with the sponge, which creates a lot more tension and also turns the sticky topsheet into a more grippy surface. It also makes the rubber feel a lot harder and faster to use, better for blocks but less forgiving.

However I am curious, how do you guys boost your Hurricane 3, and what is your result?

 

[zeio]

The one on the right looks oxidized.

 

[Yxoons]

The one on the right looks oxidized.

It is but only slightly, it was sticky like left before boosting, but after matte and grippy like the top picture, the lighting makes it hard to see

 

[dingyibvs]

One thing I found curious, is peoples results from different boosting procedures.

It's very visible that the top professional players are using highly boosted rubbers due to the visible pimples, and after boosting myself, I found that it's easily replicatable, but also comes with tradeoffs.

View attachment 42499

Both rubbers below H3N National BS and are boosted with exact same amount of Haifu National Yellow, 2 layers with 24 hours inbetween each, and 24 hours after last layer before gluing.
It may be hard to see below, but the rubber on the left is a lot more tacky and sticky, while the one on the right is very matte and grippy.

Only difference in procedure is that the protective film was kept on on the left rubber, while it was removed before boosting on the right one. The result is 2 completely different rubbers, which may be an obvious result for many, but I'm surprised there isn't a boosting procedure and result post on here already, to help others achieve the boosting result they want.

Basically by removing the protective film before boosting you allow the topsheet to stretch a lot more with the sponge, which creates a lot more tension and also turns the sticky topsheet into a more grippy surface. It also makes the rubber feel a lot harder and faster to use, better for blocks but less forgiving.

View attachment 42498

However I am curious, how do you guys boost your Hurricane 3, and what is your result?

That's just DHS quality control, has nothing to do with boosting procedure. I've boosted both ways and have gotten a non-sticky one only once and that was with leaving the protective sheet on.

 

[Yxoons]

That's just DHS quality control, has nothing to do with boosting procedure. I've boosted both ways and have gotten a non-sticky one only once and that was with leaving the protective sheet on.

I don't think you understand, I know quality control can affect tackiness, but both rubbers were just as tacky/sticky before boosting.

 

[ajtatosmano2]

I just seen the video of Hwan Bae where he shows his H3 National BS and his are still lifting the ball pretty well. There is the usual shine as well. I am not sure which is the better.

 

[Topspinslinger]

Nice post!
I only know two methodes but never thought of this. First is with one glue layer and then boosting (mostly for hard tacky rubbers)
Second is directly on sponge which is mostly for hybrid/ tensor rubbers like d09c or D05

 

[Yxoons]

I just seen the video of Hwan Bae where he shows his H3 National BS and his are still lifting the ball pretty well. There is the usual shine as well. I am not sure which is the better.

I can say they feel very different, but you will see this kind of topsheet on almost all the top players rackets, hard to find clear images of them but some examples.

*Note at a side angle they will all have a lot of shine

 

[dingyibvs]

I don't think you understand, I know quality control can affect tackiness, but both rubbers were just as tacky/sticky before boosting.

Then perhaps the one you left without a cover simply oxidized, which can happen if left uncovered especially in a hot environment.

 

[Yxoons]

Then perhaps the one you left without a cover simply oxidized, which can happen if left uncovered especially in a hot environment.

I hope you are trolling with this comment after watching my other replies

 

[dingyibvs]

I hope you are trolling with this comment after watching my other replies

No, I'm saying you probably need to experiment before you can make that conclusion. I've boosted countless H3s, BS, OS, black, and red, with the protective sheet on or removed, it makes no difference to the tackiness. The only time tackiness is significantly affected is 1) when the sheet is bad (only happened once), and 2) when I leave a sheet out uncovered either for a prolonged period of time or for even a relatively short period of time (a couple days) in my garage which can get pretty hot.

 

[Yxoons]

No, I'm saying you probably need to experiment before you can make that conclusion. I've boosted countless H3s, BS, OS, black, and red, with the protective sheet on or removed, it makes no difference to the tackiness. The only time tackiness is significantly affected is 1) when the sheet is bad (only happened once), and 2) when I leave a sheet out uncovered either for a prolonged period of time or for even a relatively short period of time (a couple days) in my garage which can get pretty hot.

Well, I've done 3x procedure of removing protective film and resting on a small bottle cap to allow for maximum stretch with same result as the ones you see on pictures from players - only now tried without removing to see if it kept the topsheet less stretched, which it did. All rubbers started out with the same tacky surface.

If oxidation was the reason for this during boosting procedure, then we would be changing H3N rubbers every 48 hours of playing? And how come the professional rubbers look like that on the pictures? Are they playing with highly oxidated rubbers? I doubt it.

For your boosting, do you rest it on a flat surface or on something small to allow for more dome? To me this could easily sound like the difference as well

 

[dingyibvs]

Well, I've done 3x procedure of removing protective film and resting on a small bottle cap to allow for maximum stretch with same result as the ones you see on pictures from players - only now tried without removing to see if it kept the topsheet less stretched, which it did. All rubbers started out with the same tacky surface.

If oxidation was the reason for this during boosting procedure, then we would be changing H3N rubbers every 48 hours of playing? And how come the professional rubbers look like that on the pictures? Are they playing with highly oxidated rubbers? I doubt it.

For your boosting, do you rest it on a flat surface or on something small to allow for more dome? To me this could easily sound like the difference as well

I've rested it on a flat surface and I've rested it on a booster bottle, again, makes no difference. It sounds like you only did without removing the protective film once, do it a few more times and let us know. It could also be that you got a particularly tacky sheet which you happened to try boosting without removing the film. I mean, I've reboosted rubbers many, many times, as have many here. If the stretching removes tack, wouldn't we all see the rubber becoming less tacky with each reboost?

As for what the pros' rubbers look like, I'm not sure what you're referring to. What am I supposed to see in those low resolution pictures?

 

[Yxoons]

I've rested it on a flat surface and I've rested it on a booster bottle, again, makes no difference. It sounds like you only did without removing the protective film once, do it a few more times and let us know. It could also be that you got a particularly tacky sheet which you happened to try boosting without removing the film. I mean, I've reboosted rubbers many, many times, as have many here. If the stretching removes tack, wouldn't we all see the rubber becoming less tacky with each reboost?

As for what the pros' rubbers look like, I'm not sure what you're referring to. What am I supposed to see in those low resolution pictures?

That is the point of this post? To ask others for their procedure and result, as I can’t just keep opening new rubbers for fun and tests to waste. This is mine after 4x, where 3 that had removed film had same stretched topsheet as visible on the “low” resolution pictures, while all had the same tacky starting point.
If you have any spare rubber from a cut and you try to pull on it, you will see the same effect, that the pimples become a lot more visible and the surface changes, I can check later if I have any.

The point of the other pictures is examples of how the surface looks on the professionals boosted rubbers, which in direct lighting definitely shows a tensioned/stretched topsheet..

 

[dingyibvs]

That is the point of this post? To ask others for their procedure and result, as I can’t just keep opening new rubbers for fun and tests to waste. This is mine after 4x, where 3 that had removed film had same stretched topsheet as visible on the “low” resolution pictures, while all had the same tacky starting point.
If you have any spare rubber from a cut and you try to pull on it, you will see the same effect, that the pimples become a lot more visible and the surface changes, I can check later if I have any.

The point of the other pictures is examples of how the surface looks on the professionals boosted rubbers, which in direct lighting definitely shows a tensioned/stretched topsheet..

I'm still not sure what you're trying to show, that the pros boost? That boosted rubbers have more visible pimples? That's just common knowledge. If you're trying to say that the one without removed film did not have a stretched topsheet look, then that's obviously wrong. In your picture it clearly has the characteristic boosted look with visible pimples, as it always does after boosting regardless of whether you remove the protective film or not.

 

[Yxoons]

I'm still not sure what you're trying to show, that the pros boost? That boosted rubbers have more visible pimples? That's just common knowledge. If you're trying to say that the one without removed film did not have a stretched topsheet look, then that's obviously wrong. In your picture it clearly has the characteristic boosted look with visible pimples, as it always does after boosting regardless of whether you remove the protective film or not.

I have gotten the memo that you want to be indenial, but I am telling you that these are tensioned completely different, for what is the same starting point, different procedure.

Professionals rubbers being highly tensioned/stretched as well. You clearly do not want to understand or see that these are very different and oxidation had no play in this, so if you have nothing better than to keep being difficult, please refrain from keep arguing for no reason

 

[vossi39]

Maybe you should consider, that your "one time" observation is not shared by users that have boosted multiple H3 Neos the same way you described. I also have experimented with boosting with and without cover foil and also noticed no difference in tackiness. I sticked with boosting without cover foil, because it is easier to glue without.

 

[Yxoons]

Maybe you should consider, that your "one time" observation is not shared by users that have boosted multiple H3 Neos the same way you described. I also have experimented with boosting with and without cover foil and also noticed no difference in tackiness. I sticked with boosting without cover foil, because it is easier to glue without.

I would agree but I’ve had same result on 3 occasions, so I wouldn’t call it a onetime result. But when I get the chance I will see if I have some leftover rubber from the cut, to stretch and show the change in surface

 

[dingyibvs]

I have gotten the memo that you want to be indenial, but I am telling you that these are tensioned completely different, for what is the same starting point, different procedure.

Professionals rubbers being highly tensioned/stretched as well. You clearly do not want to understand or see that these are very different and oxidation had no play in this, so if you have nothing better than to keep being difficult, please refrain from keep arguing for no reason

I'm still not sure what you're trying to say. Yes, professional rubbers are highly tensioned/stretched, but what does that have anything to do with tackiness or oxidation? It's the association between those things which you're drawing that I'm skeptical of.

 

[Yxoons]

I'm still not sure what you're trying to say. Yes, professional rubbers are highly tensioned/stretched, but what does that have anything to do with tackiness or oxidation? It's the association between those things which you're drawing that I'm skeptical of.

You’re the one mixing oxidation with stretched topsheet, so I don’t understand why you turn it the other way around now
First you assume that my stretched rubbers which have similar topsheet look as the other pictures I posted, are oxidated and not stretched after a 48 hour boosting period (which already is wild) then you refuse to see that the professional rubbers have way more visible pimpes and a more grippy surface than sticky, then you backtrack and say yes the pros are tensioned and stretched and compare it back to oxidation?

Please stop just with the nonsense arguing, if you’re indenial that the 3 rubbers I boosted the exact same way have a stretched topsheet just like the images from the professionals, keep it to yourself, you’re being obnoxious for no reason