Best Chinese sticky rubbers that don't need boosting

[Scarfed Garchomp]

I tried Battle 3 Purple in 41.5 hardness a few weeks ago. Don't get it, it's terrible. When I opened the packaging there was a huge reverse dome, it took 2 layers of booster to even make it flat. I put it on a thick 5-ply penhold and played with it for an hour. It was pretty fast but could not create good spin. It felt like it had too little grip to loop backspin balls comfortably, I didn't like it as it gave me no confidence in any of my shots. Finally when I was taking it off the blade the sponge ripped almost immediately. Do not recommend, even the regular B3 felt better.

I think its a good rubber, but I have the 39 degree on a 980XX (flexible 5 ply wood). Writing off a rubber because you couldn't adjust to it after an hour seems hasty to me, I'd probably have the same experience playing an extra hard Chinese style rubber on a stiff blade. What blade did you try it on?

 

[Coolsta Connor]

Is very light for 52 degrees hardness, so I expect it to be slower. I am reading bad reviews for another high-thickness rubber, Apollo II. But let's see, I will test TUTTLE 25 this weekend.

It takes a very long time to break in, but is a great rubber

 

[belllfador]

It takes a very long time to break in, but is a great rubber

Usually, I manually press the rubber multiple times or use massage gun, before glueing to the blade. Most of the rubbers become a little more alive and responsive. For the TUTTLE 25 I can say that is not bad rubber and something different from a typical chinese stuff that we are flooded. I boost small peace with 1 layer FP and that results in permanent dome. If the rubber is not cleaned, sweat fingerprints leaves permanent marks on the surface.

 

[Coolsta Connor]

Usually, I manually press the rubber multiple times or use massage gun, before glueing to the blade. Most of the rubbers become a little more alive and responsive. For the TUTTLE 25 I can say that is not bad rubber and something different from a typical chinese stuff that we are flooded. I boost small peace with 1 layer FP and that results in permanent dome. If the rubber is not cleaned, sweat fingerprints leaves permanent marks on the surface.

My friend is currently trying TUTTLE 25 and 27 as we speak, so its ironic you bring this up (it arrived yesterday). Interesting method with the massage gun, and I'd love to hear more about it with theory and whatever! What sort of massage gun is it, do you think it tensions it or something? When I wrote my comment I was initially referring to Apollo 2 for long time to break in, stock is hard to find now. Based off my friend's review it is like a Tacky Zyre. I have 2x of A2, I have seen both good and poor sheet quality, it depends which supplier you buy from. If the rubber is tight in the packaging not moving much it is high quality, otherwise it may be poor. Yinhe has said that they are in the works right now to reproduce something similar in the future. Also, what is FP the booster you use? Falco Platinum?

 

[belllfador]

My friend is currently trying TUTTLE 25 and 27 as we speak, so its ironic you bring this up (it arrived yesterday). Interesting method with the massage gun, and I'd love to hear more about it with theory and whatever! What sort of massage gun is it, do you think it tensions it or something? When I wrote my comment I was initially referring to Apollo 2 for long time to break in, stock is hard to find now. Based off my friend's review it is like a Tacky Zyre. I have 2x of A2, I have seen both good and poor sheet quality, it depends which supplier you buy from. If the rubber is tight in the packaging not moving much it is high quality, otherwise it may be poor. Yinhe has said that they are in the works right now to reproduce something similar in the future. Also, what is FP the booster you use? Falco Platinum?

Yes, FP is falco platinum. The massage gun is the cheapest one with cushioning ball attachment. I use a sheet of 729 super to cover the surface of the new rubber. I put the stack between 2 sheets of cooking paper and pressed with the massage gun most of the surface, from the sponge side. Sometimes I measure 1-2 degrees softening of the sponge, but most of the change is in the reducing of sponge damping, or energy loss during rebound. In the past, I used TT ball pierced by a screwdriver and rolled the ball on the rubber surface, with applied pressure.

TUTTLE 25 is tacky and can lift the ball, but I don't think it is as fast as Zyre or has similar durability. Even, I would be impressed if it was playable after 20 hours. But it is fun, with very good spin and speed for chinese rubber.

 

[shypre]

I think its a good rubber, but I have the 39 degree on a 980XX (flexible 5 ply wood). Writing off a rubber because you couldn't adjust to it after an hour seems hasty to me, I'd probably have the same experience playing an extra hard Chinese style rubber on a stiff blade. What blade did you try it on?

The huge reverse dome is already a bad sign, this means that the rubber was heavily factory boosted and it evaporated while in warehouse storage. One other thing I forgot to mention was that I kept the rubber trimmings around after boosting it flat, and it shrunk/reverse domed so hard again it doubled back on itself within a week. This suggests the internal boost will also disappear very quickly.

I had this on a custom thick 5-ply jpen, similar to a Yinhe 985. My old setup was a Yinhe 985 with either Battle 2 Gold or H3 blue sponge, those had excellent spin. With the B3 Purple I felt there was just no way to generate heavy spin with it, regardless of technique. And good spin and grip is the main reason I still like using tacky rubbers instead of tensors on my penhold blades.

But that is just my experience, feel free to share yours, I am interested in other people's thoughts on this rubber.

 

[Scarfed Garchomp]

The huge reverse dome is already a bad sign, this means that the rubber was heavily factory boosted and it evaporated while in warehouse storage. One other thing I forgot to mention was that I kept the rubber trimmings around after boosting it flat, and it shrunk/reverse domed so hard again it doubled back on itself within a week. This suggests the internal boost will also disappear very quickly.

I had this on a custom thick 5-ply jpen, similar to a Yinhe 985. My old setup was a Yinhe 985 with either Battle 2 Gold or H3 blue sponge, those had excellent spin. With the B3 Purple I felt there was just no way to generate heavy spin with it, regardless of technique. And good spin and grip is the main reason I still like using tacky rubbers instead of tensors on my penhold blades.

But that is just my experience, feel free to share yours, I am interested in other people's thoughts on this rubber.

Interesting that your rubber trimmings curled back on itself, I didn't keep mine and have only reglued my sheet once after the first session- it was curling but nothing I couldn't handle coming from rubbers like Baracuda and AK47 which curled very aggressively towards the sponge after some use. Personally I felt it was a very spinney rubber, but the feeling of my 39* dragging and spinning the ball on active topspin was less than other Chinese hybrid rubbers I have tried like Arthur China and Rxton7, though the arc generation when I hit through the rubber I felt to be stronger and therefore safer than rubbers like Battle 2 Prov and Nat. Of course H3 is strongest in this area but when hitting harder I felt the arc generation and arc protection of Battle 2 to be less desirable. The thing I liked most about the B3P was spin on serve, I was serving backspin and getting my usual opponents to push straight into the net or even miss the ball because the trajectory was dipping and skidding pretty aggressively. I still have yet to try the B3 orange though which I am interested to see how it compares to purple

 

[merlin el mago]

B3P is Battle 3 provincial or purple?

 

[andzejgolot]

IT doesnt matter which^

 

[Migzkulit]

Would like to add Super Kaiser Ninja300 National black on here. It's pretty factory boosted by factory, feels direct, kind of like a mix of Vega China and H3. Also it stays tacky which is always welcome. Has a neo layer like the h3.

There's also the blue sponge variant but it doesn't feel as bouncy, also both are only available in 39/40 degrees.

 

[H3R0]

I tried Battle 3 Purple in 41.5 hardness a few weeks ago. Don't get it, it's terrible. When I opened the packaging there was a huge reverse dome, it took 2 layers of booster to even make it flat. I put it on a thick 5-ply penhold and played with it for an hour. It was pretty fast but could not create good spin. It felt like it had too little grip to loop backspin balls comfortably, I didn't like it as it gave me no confidence in any of my shots. Finally when I was taking it off the blade the sponge ripped almost immediately. Do not recommend, even the regular B3 felt better.

Exactly. I had the same problem. Sponge durability is atrocious for such hard sponge. Similarly grip is so so, though speed was good

 

[Zwill]

I might be going mad, but I bought a provincial H3N 37 red for backhand. I just glued it I didn't boost or anything.
It's quite fast and bouncy and stable... what is happening? Spinny too... Amazing for blocking and open ups and receive and banana flick. I'm not gonna say it's faster than Glayzer but with its sharp trajectory maybe it is faster? Feels that way for sure. My opponents didn't fancy it.

 

[barusu]

I might be going mad, but I bought a provincial H3N 37 red for backhand. I just glued it I didn't boost or anything.
It's quite fast and bouncy and stable... what is happening? Spinny too... Amazing for blocking and open ups and receive and banana flick. I'm not gonna say it's faster than Glayzer but with its sharp trajectory maybe it is faster? Feels that way for sure. My opponents didn't fancy it.

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