Search results

If you don't have to keep removing and reattaching rubbers I recommend Donic Formula First. It's a non ammonia formula that is very consistent and strong. You only need one thin layer on the sponge and blade. I have had issues with ammonia/water based glues from table tennis brand, even Finezip...

Play practice matches (with a coach or a willing opponent you don't mind losing to) where you concentrate on developing the habit of automatically repositioning to the right distance and side after every stroke instead of trying to win a point outright. You may find the match becoming easier and...

Stiga Mantra Pro H or M - around $35 on aliexpress. Made in Japan by Daiki, manufacturer of the Nittaku Hammond Z2. Probably the best deal in non Chinese performance rubbers.

Nothing to stop you from fighting fire with fire and joining the dark side even if temporarily to see what it's about and to see if you can compete on a "level playing field" againts your supposingly crappy pip wielding opponent. It would be an interesting experience for sure. Personally I...

You are not imagining things. One thing you will understand if you've owned many blades and tried many others is that even the same brand and model of blade could be different as wood is came from a living tree which depending on how it grew and processed give different characteristics. For...

That is funny, I have the Akkad and that is the last blade I would consider fast. Mine has an unusual ball speed to racket speed relationship and a prominent speed limit to me. It's slower than my Tibhar Stratus Powerwood, which is one of the fastest 5 ply all wood I've owned.

Don't be knocking the equipment dope or that perfect hit. I found mine after about 40 different blades and I'm playing the best I ever have without even worrying much about the gear anymore. I amaze myself sometimes with the kind of returns I make. ;)

Try out the rackets of your club member and see if carbon blades are for you. At 1500 you should have the basics to be able to adjust to the right carbon blade. I can't play all wood blades anymore and having found my pretty much holy grail blade the Stiga Inspira Hybrid Carbon I haven't been...

I'm using C55 right now on the forehand and it's working for me but it is really only very slightly tacky, if at all and way faster than H3 at passive and semi active swing speeds. Somehow the loss in control at lower speeds is not an issue for me in match as I'm usually always working the...

I would look to trying out different setups of your club members to see what is out there. You may find a good regular ALC blade having a more profound effect for your development and that a Dignics 09C not so scary if you pair it with the right blade. You should know balsa blades have a...

@OP, why are you asking this question? Don't you already have the top tier FZD ALC, H3 Nat Blue, D05 setup? Maybe you need to boost your H3? ;)

I have the Garaydia ZLC which I believe is the twin of the Amultart. I think the reason why Amultart is not more popular is the price and that it is thicker and less flexible than most of the popular ALC blades. That bit of flexibility helps control in attacking/handling short balls as well as...

I leave you with this: . Make sure to enable the sound.

No, you noob, 50 degrees. Do you even attack on your backhand?

Loki Arthur China. No boosting needed. C55 is not really tacky and is way faster at lower hitting speeds than LAC or H3 and can be uncontrollable in some situations. During matches the C55 over speed was not an issue for me.

The common reason - at the low end of hitting speeds it is less consistent for me and more work. I'm probably not the only one who have experienced the ball simply going into the net with hard Chinese rubbers due to the non linearity of response when not hitting hard. There is little...

I rarely boost so I'm no expert but I put 2 layers of of Seamoon national White on the R9. It was pretty unusable for me unboosted. I should transfer the R9 to the blade I normally use for a proper test.

Do not let water air dry on the rubber. It can leave mineral deposit on the rubber if you have hard water and may be what is causing your "infinite dust". You can use a drop of free and clear dish detergent on a damp sponge as cleaner. Wipe the rubber then rinse the sponge, and squeeze out...

Have you tried boosting it? If you don't want to boost, check out Loki Arthur China.

I tried this blade that a club member brought and I quite like it. It's fast even when using unboosted DHS Skyline TG3 and it has good control and spin. Throw was a little low but it might have been the rubber. It has that woody, slightly vibration feel that some may like. If I was forced to use...