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I have both C1 and S1. The C1 sponge measures 45d and the S1 sponge measures 40d. Also, after regluing to different blades, chunks of the sponge come off S1 but never from the C1. I highly doubt they are the same sponge.

I actually enjoy that the TTD team is facing very difficult opponents this season. It's a lot better to root for them as the underdogs. Would rather see them start from the bottom and work their way up this high level environment.

No interest in buying these but I want to compliment you on the design and theme. It's pretty obvious you put a lot of thought into them.

It's not a Clipper clone. The top ply is limba and under that is limba, where it would be ayous in a Clipper. Clippers are close to 7mm as well, whereas Fextra is only 6mm. Fextra is a more flexible blade with more dwell. The Fextra feels like something in between a 5 and 7 ply. You can try one...

Yeah I agree. I'm not an expert, but my pet theory is that thin, slow, flexy 5 ply blades (under 5.8mm) were good for the old ball but with the new ball, the slight increase in mass changed things to the extent that they are no longer appropriate. Because a lot of good players have fond memories...

I interpreted his main point was the YSE was 'fine otherwise' suggesting that his 1 minute with the racket was conclusive versus my months spent with it. But using it with other rubbers like Fastarc C-1, S-1, Xiom Vega Intro didn't feel fine. It wasn't even the slowness that bothered me, just a...

Your experience seems to be evidence in favor of my theory that there are some blades that are 'duds' or 'lemons.' I guess with the high variance in the properties of wood (and maybe issues with gluing and construction as well) it might just be too difficult to have consistency in play. We...

I played that YSE with 3 different rubbers for months. And Mercury 2 has felt fine on 3 different blades. So I don't think the 1 minute you spent using the YSE was telling you the whole story. The YSE sucks (at least for me)

Do you remember what the sponge color was? And how did it play before the oxidation problems started happening?

From this thread I wonder if it's common to get a 'dud' blade that plays worse than a typical one of the same model, or if it's completely down to individual preference and rubber synergy. I've seen high praise for Yasaka Sweden Extra saying it had great feel, but I personally thought it had...

Out of curiosity, did you remember the sponge color and hardness of the Moon Speed you used? From reviews, I'm seeing that people are disappointed with the Moon Speed with yellow sponge, but are happy with the red sponge version. Even seeing that at least one version of them has a glossier...

Yeah, it looks like you should try out an OFF- all wood like Fextra. It's a good blade for development and my favorite one so far out of Yasaka Sweden Extra, Nittaku Acoustic, and Nittaku Ludeack. If you do try out the Fextra, let us know how the V5 Pro compares, since so many people are...

How do you like playing with the Sanwei V5 Pro? What other similar blades can you compare it to? Have you played with a Fextra before? I was considering buying a V5 Pro to see if I'd enjoy a slight increase in hardness/speed and a different outer wood (Ash vs typical limba). Haven't seen its...

I'm using Battle 2 Pro Orange Sponge and it feels pretty soft and bouncy compared to other Chinese rubbers I've tried. Is Battle 3 an even easier-to-play rubber than that? If so, then I'm kinda interested, especially since it's supposed to be manufactured for improved durability/longevitity...

In person at the Kokusai TT store, the Nittaku Hino series blades looked the best. Simple, minimal traditional Japanese design. Nittaku let the beauty of the wood do the takling. Looked like a piece of art.

Since this thread is the top result when googling this topic I wanted to add some more info for people who were unfortunate enough to spill glue on the topsheet. Glue somehow onto about 40% of the surface of the topsheet of my Battle 2 rubber. The glue was relatively fresh (a few minutes) when...

Usually black, currently blue for me. I'm using Rxton 3 blue/pink on my FH too. So far it's been the rubber that works best for me, costed me only $13, and looks pretty cool on top of all that.

Well it's definitely a glue/topsheet problem then. The only explanation I can think of as to why some don't have the same problem is that there are good batches and bad batches.

I bought some nice Mizuno shirts for $15 in Tokyo. I think they have clearances often on sites like KokusaiTT and TT-Japan so maybe see if you can have them ship to where you are or use a 3rd party shipper.

I've used Revolution 3 and DHS #15 and prefer DHS #15. It's a lot easier to remove rubber from the blade with DHS #15.