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Buttefly Innerforce ALC.S has a teeny weeny little pop sickle handle... Cheers L-zr

Why not this ? Cheers L-zr

But then you will have the problem of moving from amateur to pro with illegal served. It is much much better to simplify the rules so that no technology is necessary. Cheers L-zr

What about on amateur's level, You cant have cameras in all training halls ... No, It have to enforceable WITHOUT a lot of technology. Cheers L-zr

Partially covering the ball, This I think is a good rule. It could be restated like this - Body except for racket hand behind the ball This way an empire sitting level with the edge of the table can easily check this. But I don't know.... It will probably make a lot of players less than...

- Open hand - Behind and above the table - Ball always in open view by opponent. Anything else is unnecessary. Cheers L-zr

Yep, exactly my idea, "You can not have rules that are not enforceable"... Cheers L-zr

If you are willing to spend a bit more You can get a real good equipment. My advice is buy a good blade and som cheaper rubbers because you will change them anyway and you won’t notice much difference in the beginning. I’d say 50-100 buck on the blade and 2*20 bucks on the first rubbers. This...

Absolutely doable, but You will experience a significantly slower setup... Cheers L-zr

Gaaah, what a royal p.i.a… 😉 Cheers L-zr

This is my H3 prov rroutine: Boost 1 layer, wait some hrs. Boost 2 layer, wait some hrs, Boost 3 layer wait until it almost flat (4 - 7) days. Play until dead 6, 7 months at 4 * 2 hrs a week... And I notice only a very slow gradual degradation... Wouldn't dream of the hassle to rip off reboost...

An in unboosted rubber changes it’s properties as well as it deteriorates… Cheers L-zr

The thing is that long pips grips the ball very poorly so the ball comes back to you with the most of you own spin in return regardless of their racket movement. If they return a topspin from you it will return as underspin and if they return an underspin from you it will return as topspin. But...

All rubbers shrink to different degrees in my experience. Cheers L-zr

I would use superglue if the intention is to just use glue. But I would clamp it under news paper as I said before. That way the clamp won’t be fixed to the blade. And since it’s on the face the looks doesn’t matter. Cheers L-zr

If it’s really small glue is enough. If it’s on the face and small cover it with several layers of news paper under a clamp. Then Dario off the news paper as much as possible, and sand it level. If it’s bigger cut it even and fill with a small wood ply. Clamp it under news paper that you can...

Spin and spin sensitivity always go together. If you are an early beginner the best rubber is a slow unspinny rubber, but at the firs rubber change (6 months to a year) get a slow spinny rubber i. e. H3(Neo)… Cheers L-zr

Regarding South Korean blades: I think you’re right, got me a Donic J-O Waldner Gold edition, and it is a mighty fine blade. A fast so it will wait faithfully in my closet for now… Cheers L-zr

Yes, change the coach… You can learn fine with just about any rubber. That H3 is difficult is an unam myth. It’s actually much better to start slow and go up in speed… It can be a little slow from position 4 behind the table, but at 1 & 2 it works great. If You are real powerful it will work...

That’s an exaggeration, he probably means that the contact time is very short. The blade can actually help the sensation that the ball is grasped, but of course it’s mostly the rubber. Cheers L-zr