CCBladecraft

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Played second day 4 hrs with Chase's Western Red-Redwood-Sugar Pine-Redwood-Western Red
95g 6.8mm 1305Hz Taper Handle Blade.

What mouthful. Gesundheit.

Blade is OFF- or so like he describes. Blade is 95 grams like he describes. his handles are 105 mm long, I likey dat. balance not head heavy and overall not so heavy to bring to impact. Vibration not like a Stiga earthquake. Likey dat too. handle gets a tiny fatter lower, interesting. Longer handle allows me to whip the blade better. Likey.

Donic Bluestorm Z3 (blue) on FH and Tibhar Aurus Soft (blk) on BH. Both wings spin like insane. My shots have the spin and quality I expect from my main blade.

Putting it short, there is zero dropoff playing with this blade. it is appropriate for those who want to be at the table and spin open, counter vs pace or spin... or occasionally drop back and counter.

Chase make this blade for $60 before shipping and this is 1/3-1/2 the price of certain big brand blades that do the same thing.

Send Chase a PM and get u sum Chase made blades.
 
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Played second day 4 hrs with Chase's Western Red-Redwood-Sugar Pine-Redwood-Western Red
95g 6.8mm 1305Hz Taper Handle Blade.

What mouthful. Gesundheit.

Blade is OFF- or so like he describes. Blade is 95 grams like he describes. his handles are 105 mm long, I likey dat. balance not head heavy and overall not so heavy to bring to impact. Vibration not like a Stiga earthquake. Likey dat too. handle gets a tiny fatter lower, interesting. Longer handle allows me to whip the blade better. Likey.

Donic Bluestorm Z3 (blue) on FH and Tibhar Aurus Soft (blk) on BH. Both wings spin like insane. My shots have the spin and quality I expect from my main blade.

Putting it short, there is zero dropoff playing with this blade. it is appropriate for those who want to be at the table and spin open, counter vs pace or spin... or occasionally drop back and counter.

Chase make this blade for $60 before shipping and this is 1/3-1/2 the price of certain big brand blades that do the same thing.

Send Chase a PM and get u sum Chase made blades.
Thanks for the positive feedback! Pretty happy with the new sugar pine lumber and there’s plenty to go around!
 
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Played second day 4 hrs with Chase's Western Red-Redwood-Sugar Pine-Redwood-Western Red
95g 6.8mm 1305Hz Taper Handle Blade.

What mouthful. Gesundheit.

Blade is OFF- or so like he describes. Blade is 95 grams like he describes. his handles are 105 mm long, I likey dat. balance not head heavy and overall not so heavy to bring to impact. Vibration not like a Stiga earthquake. Likey dat too. handle gets a tiny fatter lower, interesting. Longer handle allows me to whip the blade better. Likey.

Donic Bluestorm Z3 (blue) on FH and Tibhar Aurus Soft (blk) on BH. Both wings spin like insane. My shots have the spin and quality I expect from my main blade.

Putting it short, there is zero dropoff playing with this blade. it is appropriate for those who want to be at the table and spin open, counter vs pace or spin... or occasionally drop back and counter.

Chase make this blade for $60 before shipping and this is 1/3-1/2 the price of certain big brand blades that do the same thing.

Send Chase a PM and get u sum Chase made blades.
dang $60! you can't beat that price.
Chase you coming tonight? Do you make any innercarbon blades? I've been wanting to try but don't want to fork over another $150+ to try a butterfly innerforce ALC type blade.
 
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dang $60! you can't beat that price.
Chase you coming tonight? Do you make any innercarbon blades? I've been wanting to try but don't want to fork over another $150+ to try a butterfly innerforce ALC type blade.
I can’t make it tonight but shoot me a pm and I’ll definitely see what I can do for you.
 
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Played at Citrus Hts 3 hrs... lot of doubles... this Chase made Western Red-Redwood-Sugar Pine-Redwood-Western Red 95g 6.8mm 1305Hz Taper Handle Blade... this puppy will bark. Played extreme heavy spin.

@Jslick89 had a 5 minute hit with it tonite while I LP chopped back to him. He could spin a few in a row.
 
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So I had my last session today in league playing the Chase made OFF- Western Red-Redwood-Sugar Pine-Redwood-Western Red 95g 6.8mm 1305Hz Taper Handle Blade...

Results confirm I can play my spin based game with this bat close to the table and power some balls when needed.

Chase showed up with my Donic Persson Power play 91g blade with new SOLID Square handles... well now blade is 102g with LOW balance, even lower than original... WOW, 196g total with my normal soft rubbers.

The puppy barked and flipping was easier due to handle shape conforming better to my hand.

I asked him to make two more sets of handles, one arched like the original Senso style, so we will see what blade craft comes out of the idea factory here in a short.

@Jslick89 ... Chase was asking about you... next time Chase is in the building, make it a point to step over and talk to him.
 
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Chase was at Citrus Heights Gym tonite with a box of hiz goodies - a number of stunning blades.

He handed me the two sets of custom handles for my Persson Power Play blades... one of them he kinda arched it out like the original senso handle pieces. Will be interesting to see how it plays. I have 2 new in hte box PPP blades ready to go for this.

May end up making another "Beast" thread... not that it is a beast mod, but this blade with heavier custom handles that fit your hand is a real beast in its own right.
 
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BOO! There’s a ghost in my house! Oh wait it’s just a blade, but a pretty cool one I made today. A “Hinoki Ghost” that was created/designed by Charlie BBC.
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Played with the blade Chase gave to Sergey Scoobie Doo... he had put K1 on the FH... I showed up to the table cold and the first five high bat speed opening loops I tried in the knockup were knockouts.

Chase made the blade to be kinda close in purpose to the Donic Ovtcharov Carbon... this blade felt low OFF-, but with that K1, a rubber so spin-less it is practically anti after two weeks, a rubber no one would be caught dead or alive using... my first 5 loops were zinging in there with spin and depth.
I do not like the feel of Sergey's choice blade, but I cannot argue with the quality of ball I was able to make dead cold turkey off the street zero previous hits.
 
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As much of a macho man that is @Jslick89 ... that cat would do a lot better with a slower blade and softer modern dynamic rubbers... and loosen his grip sum moar, and receive serves sum moar...

...but what the heck, many a cat cracked 2000 USATT rating without being good at any of that. They all did it by buying a $800 bty blade, by boosting the heck outta H3, writing the same thread every week, and asking Sacramento Sergey (USA's natl expert) on how to boost and play with H3 versions.
 
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more faster more better!!! Hahaha. I’m actually gluing up a uni carbon right now that would probably be better. Oh and I’ve got that sugar pine wood working just the way I want it to. Blade blank came out to a whopping 60g so I threw on solid teak handles weighing in at 27g for the set. 87g all+ blade.
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Nice! Now I wonder if I have something for Jslick to try hmm…. View attachment 26758
Oh a cutting board! Ignore the 88g inner carbon blade and look at that beauty! Makes me want to make some choppers!
This is an inner carbon?? flare handle? its beautiful....

As much of a macho man that is @Jslick89 ... that cat would do a lot better with a slower blade and softer modern dynamic rubbers... and loosen his grip sum moar, and receive serves sum moar...

...but what the heck, many a cat cracked 2000 USATT rating without being good at any of that. They all did it by buying a $800 bty blade, by boosting the heck outta H3, writing the same thread every week, and asking Sacramento Sergey (USA's natl expert) on how to boost and play with H3 versions.
lol i'm not a macho man at all. that being said....i still have a lot of room for improvement, especially on serve return. i do wonder how much the inner carbon blade and softer rubber would help with that.....
 
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This is an inner carbon?? flare handle? its beautiful....


lol i'm not a macho man at all. that being said....i still have a lot of room for improvement, especially on serve return. i do wonder how much the inner carbon blade and softer rubber would help with that.....
It doesn't mean much next to the training hours. That said, there are times you play a style that is automatically enhanced by equipment you haven't tested yet. When you test it, you realize it, but without testing it, you don't - for example, I needed time to get back into the game but immediately I put Golden Tango on my racket, my ball quality just took an instant upgrade vs C48 and it was obvious to my opponents and in my results because consistency isn't everything - I was more consistent with softer rubber but my ball was also less disturbing which lead to easier returns for my opponents. And in all honesty, the speed you might need to play at 2000 level might make you reliably 2000, but make it harder to get to 2300 level for example. There are tradeoffs in every approach that one has to honestly factor in when taking that approach. But it takes me back to the first main point- nothing is as important as the training hours and seeking improvement while just staying in the game. It takes about 5 to 10 years of investment to hit your first true peak. I know people who got to 2200 over a period of about 20 years, and I know a guy who is 40 who is still improving after 8 years or so of hardcore training. It is one of the perks of being someone who trains as an adult, you can largely look forward to a lot of good years of improvement if your training keeps you in the game. People who peaked as kids have a different curve.
 
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It doesn't mean much next to the training hours. That said, there are times you play a style that is automatically enhanced by equipment you haven't tested yet. When you test it, you realize it, but without testing it, you don't - for example, I needed time to get back into the game but immediately I put Golden Tango on my racket, my ball quality just took an instant upgrade vs C48 and it was obvious to my opponents and in my results because consistency isn't everything - I was more consistent with softer rubber but my ball was also less disturbing which lead to easier returns for my opponents. And in all honesty, the speed you might need to play at 2000 level might make you reliably 2000, but make it harder to get to 2300 level for example. There are tradeoffs in every approach that one has to honestly factor in when taking that approach. But it takes me back to the first main point- nothing is as important as the training hours and seeking improvement while just staying in the game. It takes about 5 to 10 years of investment to hit your first true peak. I know people who got to 2200 over a period of about 20 years, and I know a guy who is 40 who is still improving after 8 years or so of hardcore training. It is one of the perks of being someone who trains as an adult, you can largely look forward to a lot of good years of improvement if your training keeps you in the game. People who peaked as kids have a different curve.
Thanks Nextlevel! Those are some really good points and I definitely agree that quality time on the table is the best way to get better. I’m by no means an “EJ”. In fact, I’ve used the same set up listed on my profile for 18 months. I do see a lot of people on here post about the benefits of a slower set up though so lately it’s been curious to me..especially after I tried my friend’s special edition ma long 5 with Chinese rubbers.

But anyways, I tried the blade from chase tonight. He said it’s the same frequency as a typical viscaria. We threw the friendship battle 2 on the forehand and a mx k on the backhand. Loved my forehand loops with this set up. The shots were spinnier and much lower trajectory. Doesn’t have the same pop as a tenergy but the ball is high quality. The control was Really good. I could easily aim anywhere and it was landing deep. I looped and flicked backspin shots. My forehand is my bresd and butter so it was easy to adjust to this set up. I wonder if I different rubber might work even better..like dhs hurricsne neo 3 or even the rubber you’re talking about?

My backhand…it’s still a work in progress so it was harder to adjust for me. I think maybe the mx k was too slow? I have a short punchy backhand. Maybe I need to try more with that kind of rubber? Or maybe try something slighting better for blocking since that is more my current style? Any recommendations?
 
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