CCBladecraft

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Thanks Nextlevel! Those are some really good points and I definitely agree that quality time on the table is the best way to get better. I’m by no means an “EJ”. In fact, I’ve used the same set up listed on my profile for 18 months. I do see a lot of people on here post about the benefits of a slower set up though so lately it’s been curious to me..especially after I tried my friend’s special edition ma long 5 with Chinese rubbers.

But anyways, I tried the blade from chase tonight. He said it’s the same frequency as a typical viscaria. We threw the friendship battle 2 on the forehand and a mx k on the backhand. Loved my forehand loops with this set up. The shots were spinnier and much lower trajectory. Doesn’t have the same pop as a tenergy but the ball is high quality. The control was Really good. I could easily aim anywhere and it was landing deep. I looped and flicked backspin shots. My forehand is my bresd and butter so it was easy to adjust to this set up. I wonder if I different rubber might work even better..like dhs hurricsne neo 3 or even the rubber you’re talking about?

My backhand…it’s still a work in progress so it was harder to adjust for me. I think maybe the mx k was too slow? I have a short punchy backhand. Maybe I need to try more with that kind of rubber? Or maybe try something slighting better for blocking since that is more my current style? Any recommendations?
I am a huge fan of using the same rubber on both sides for a variety of reasons, the main one being that you can transfer aspects of your understanding of technique easily across both strokes, but if you are sure that you want to play high level offense with power as your focus, honestly with the plastic ball, get a rubber that is hybrid sticky on the foeehand and one that is either hybrid sticky or Tenergy/Dignics powerful on the backhand. Dignics 09c is a starting point but there are lots of reasonable alternatives. My problem with MK was that it didnt respond to extra power in a way that felt rewarding but it might be a decent starting point though I might prefer something like Fastarc C1 or G1 for a non-sticky looping rubber.

On the blade side, if you already have a Butterfly blade in the Viscaria range or you like this Chase blade, then just use that. But whatever you use, your goal should be to ramp up the stability/spin first and foremost and then the power when in position with rapid recovery. What I mean is that you need to be able to loop to block 50 times at some speed even in a footwork drill, it doesn't have to be fast but you have to feel that you have a speed that you don't miss at, and then raise the quality of that speed with extra spin and power over time while not losing the stability. Anyone going for maximum power should lose stability and you should only do this in a particular drill where maybe you have a really good blocker and you are challenging your max recovery or max power. It is very important to show no fear of the ball coming back in table tennis.

Backhand topspin is a technical shot, usually someone who doesnt feel comfortable with it hasn't figured our how to integrate the backhand backswing with his forehand finishing position. But since you are a coach Hoang fan, watch his video on basic backhand and the need for wrist flexion in the backhand and take it seriously and figure our how to play your backhand from that position and what your forehand needs to support that. Because I usually see that people with your problem just haven't figured our how to transition between both forehand and backhand comfortably but once you figure it out, you will be topsponning on both sides without hesitation.
 
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IMG_3061.jpeg

cut a head off and have a super long handle or leave as is?
 
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Very interesting!
I wonder if this is allowed by ittf rules. Playing a bat with 4 hitting areas- nice!
I’m not sure but I’d guess probably not. I wasn’t really thinking about that, I was thinking about that guy from Star Wars that has the cool lightsaber coming out of two ends haha!
 
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I am a huge fan of using the same rubber on both sides for a variety of reasons, the main one being that you can transfer aspects of your understanding of technique easily across both strokes, but if you are sure that you want to play high level offense with power as your focus, honestly with the plastic ball, get a rubber that is hybrid sticky on the foeehand and one that is either hybrid sticky or Tenergy/Dignics powerful on the backhand. Dignics 09c is a starting point but there are lots of reasonable alternatives. My problem with MK was that it didnt respond to extra power in a way that felt rewarding but it might be a decent starting point though I might prefer something like Fastarc C1 or G1 for a non-sticky looping rubber.

On the blade side, if you already have a Butterfly blade in the Viscaria range or you like this Chase blade, then just use that. But whatever you use, your goal should be to ramp up the stability/spin first and foremost and then the power when in position with rapid recovery. What I mean is that you need to be able to loop to block 50 times at some speed even in a footwork drill, it doesn't have to be fast but you have to feel that you have a speed that you don't miss at, and then raise the quality of that speed with extra spin and power over time while not losing the stability. Anyone going for maximum power should lose stability and you should only do this in a particular drill where maybe you have a really good blocker and you are challenging your max recovery or max power. It is very important to show no fear of the ball coming back in table tennis.

Backhand topspin is a technical shot, usually someone who doesnt feel comfortable with it hasn't figured our how to integrate the backhand backswing with his forehand finishing position. But since you are a coach Hoang fan, watch his video on basic backhand and the need for wrist flexion in the backhand and take it seriously and figure our how to play your backhand from that position and what your forehand needs to support that. Because I usually see that people with your problem just haven't figured our how to transition between both forehand and backhand comfortably but once you figure it out, you will be topsponning on both sides without hesitation.
 
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I’m not sure but I’d guess probably not. I wasn’t really thinking about that, I was thinking about that guy from Star Wars that has the cool lightsaber coming out of two ends haha!
As long as only one of the "blade" has an authorized covering is used for striking the ball, then there is nothing in the laws of table tennis against it... but that creation would be mighty difficult to wield in TT battle though.
 
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As long as only one of the "blade" has an authorized covering is used for striking the ball, then there is nothing in the laws of table tennis against it... but that creation would be mighty difficult to wield in TT battle though.
I’ll stick to making traditional blades for now haha! Hoping to have some cool new stuff as soon as I’m done with this project
 
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Dipping my toes in the hardbat world. I thought this one would be easy because I thought it was just a premade plywood people were using to make these but after looking at the one I was told to clone the plies were all the same thickness and I couldn’t find a plywood with equal plies 3/16 thickness. So this one came from a giant basswood carving block.

4.75mm 5 ply
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Couple more hardbats. These are with a bigger headshape and slightly heavier. Customer is looking for a hock clone so I’m meeting up with the local Hock specialist and hardbat enthusiast to see just how close it is.
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This is a 9-10-9, invented by blademaker Charlie BBC. This iconic blade was considered the solution to the search for an unbreakable single ply at its time of creation.

Made for a customer. Patting myself on the back because they requested a blade under 89 grams, said I’d aim for 88.
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Gunna be back in Sac next wek and pick up three more sets of handles for my PPP blade... a 2200-2300 player I met in Boston loved my PPP and the custom handles, I gave him CC Bladecraft vcard... he he gets sum stuff from Chase.

Those custom handles really help you whit and move that bat !
 
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Gunna be back in Sac next wek and pick up three more sets of handles for my PPP blade... a 2200-2300 player I met in Boston loved my PPP and the custom handles, I gave him CC Bladecraft vcard... he he gets sum stuff from Chase.

Those custom handles really help you whit and move that bat !
Nice! I’m glad they’re working out. I’ll be at the club next Tuesday with them
 
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In the garage, finished my first Peruvian black walnut core blade. I was looking through my BBC blades and every time I find myself holding the peruvian black walnut blade that he made. Kinda cool to finally make one of my own. I figured if there’s any other fans of Charlie’s work out there you might find this pic cool too, can you spot the walnut core? The rack is an RBC (Racks By Charlie) lol
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